MightyTank

Yea we're going to same two distributors for years same kits -TG Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Just realized they put me as older AM kits, I'm still a contact for the new AM kits we're pulling [emoji4] . We've got a run that'll be ready in about a week. Best, TG [email protected] Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Well technically no, they are not FX armour, as those molds are retired and in storage. They are a poor fx knock off. --------------- Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

Troopergear (AM 2.0 supplier) here. I'm not sure how your email was missed, but sometimes they get lost in spam. Shoot me another email at [email protected] and I'd be happy to help! Troop on! TG Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

Yea pm or try to email me at [email protected], it's possible your message went to spam. I have kits going out in less than a week and would be happy to help you out. Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk

To help with the new AM 2.0 Helmet build: The problem people are having is the aligning of the bottom holes but it's not difficult to do if you use this little trick. Because the back of the helmet is a wider tube, exactly the same as the screen helmets and the front tubes are smaller, there is large gap between the joining region which is covered by the ear piece. The ear piece should be mounted exactly as designed via the two screws and then rivets or bolts used to secured the front and back pieces, but these are not visible, they're under the ear pieces. Once the left piece is mounted, and all of the holes are drilled, the lower tubes on the left side will not line up, nor will the hole on the bottom of the ear piece. To keep tolerances very clean and tight and bring the lower side tube regions together, they will need to be pushed and it's a very tight fit. Sometimes having two people helps. The way I prefer, by myself, is to carefully take a thin phillips head screw driver and run it through the outer side of the ear cover and then through the hole in the lower edge of the back piece and then through the hole in the left side of the lower edge of the front plate. Something like a shish-kabob. Now, once the screwdriver is pushed through, the builder needs to carefully push the pieces together while very slowly and carefully pull the upper handle of the screw driver towards the bottom and it's important that it's NOT JUST THE SCREWDRIVER pressure but also someone pushing all three pieces together. Once the holes line up, carefully remove the screwdriver while keeping pressure on the pieces so they do not move, and the second the screw driver is removed, place the bolt into the hole, run the nut down and slowly tighten. Once everything is assembled, the builder can add a little ABS cement along the edges to add some strength. You'll immediately see that when everything is tightened, the helmet will become incredibly tight and very, very rigid. The measurements of the ear pieces will be almost dead-on to the original screen helmets but the strength will be much greater. Also, the inner edge of the tube is much, much deeper on our helmet and the other one piece (back and dome) which others are forming are extremely shallow and they look odd when being worn. Just too much gapping and you can see too much of the wearers head. On our helmet, the builder can leave the inner tube edge wide or they may carefully trim the edge making it shallower. I'm sorry for the problems with the assembly, perhaps building to such a tight tolerance was not a good idea but I just hated to create something which wasn't extremely strong as conventions can be hard on helmet as do packing and shipping. I do believe the tighter build tolerances really helps to make a higher quality and stronger helmet.

Same armor, different people. Shoot me the email and I'll take care of you. [email protected] Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk

Did you email me, or Tupperware? Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk

Hello everyone. The issue with the shins has been brought to my attention and it seems there has been some mistake at the shop when packing. I do not think it was every kit, but i am not sure which ones got the mistake. If you are having an issue with two left shins, shoot me an email at [email protected] with pictures of the shins that you received (please don't PM me here, i don't check it often) and i am making a list and contacting the shop to see if they can shed some light on to what in the world happened. I am very sorry for this inconvenience, but we will get it sorted.

AM would fit you well too Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk

Lou, beautiful write-up and documentation. I hope you don't mind if share the link with the new AM kit purchasers Also, this will only be more simple with the next pulls as there has been basic trim lines added for the helmet pieces and ears!

Craig you should have received some ears, please send me a pm with your details and i'll get a set out to you asap with tracking.

It is, and that is why the design was changed to be more accurate. But unlike the movies, we actually have to aim for a long term life out of the armor, and with trooping and use, we thought the benefits of making it more durable outweighed the perfect accuracy. Obviously it wont be the choice of a lot of troopers, but that's why the LITE (headless) kit is offered

It's not that its harder to do, its that whenever the cap and back are pulled together it leaves a thinner spot on the dome, even with the .090 thick abs. The 3 piece design was done so that every piece will stay as thick as the rest.