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Posted

This is my ESB build.

 

A few highlights:

 

Canvas belt

 

Modified MRCE helmet

 

Modded blaster (all add-ons except counter, added extra t-racks and d-ring)

 

Also, I am posting this pretty close to when I requested 501st access. I received my TK ID last week, so if there's any issue with the timing it should be resolved shortly. Thanks!

 

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Posted

Questions:

-are thous rivits on the right lower leg armor?

-is your holster made of leather or black canvas?

 

could we see some close up of the Mics?

 

Over all i think it looks good :)

Posted
Questions:

-are thous rivits on the right lower leg armor?

-is your holster made of leather or black canvas?

 

could we see some close up of the Mics?

 

Over all i think it looks good :)

 

The holster is made of black leather. It's the thinner, more flexible kind rather than the thick stuff.

 

There are two rivets holding the knee guard in place, both painted white.

 

The mics are just the standards with the MRCE. Here's a closeup.

 

IMG_7412.jpg

Posted

I think Joey might be referring to the area around the ankles / instep of the shin. Looks like there's rivets on the ankles and the middle strip?

 

Also, I think for ESB - the blaster has no hengstler, correct?

Posted
I think Joey might be referring to the area around the ankles / instep of the shin. Looks like there's rivets on the ankles and the middle strip?

 

Also, I think for ESB - the blaster has no hengstler, correct?

 

Yes, your comment about the other rivets is correct...sorry about missing that...didn't occur to me.

 

Yes, I think you're right about the blaster...maybe you can help...what is the hengstler? I thought I'd taken care of that, but I guess I took off the wrong thing.

Posted

Hengstler is the ammo counter, which needs to be removed. The side gaps ideally should be of plastic & not vinyl or fabric, but for now would work.

 

You're in the same town as Brian (tkrestonva) you lucky dude - he'll square you away for sure. And, he's one helluva nice guy to boot! :)

Posted

the holster needs to loop over the belt also...it should not be rivited to the belt like ANH

Posted

The Hengstler counter is the box on the left side, under the scope. You could cut this away with a Dremel and patch over the hole with some plastic piping / bondo, etc. and repaint it. Easy fix.

 

For the rivets on the legs, I'm not sure why they need to be there on the ankles?

 

The sides of the torso would look better with plastic shims ideally instead of fabric as Daetrin pointed out.

 

Overall, you're heading in the right direction!

Posted
Hengstler is the ammo counter, which needs to be removed. The side gaps ideally should be of plastic & not vinyl or fabric, but for now would work.

 

You're in the same town as Brian (tkrestonva) you lucky dude - he'll square you away for sure. And, he's one helluva nice guy to boot! :)

 

I think I may need some further clarification... After searching for what a hengstler counter is, it seems to be the square piece that sits on the side of the blaster. I had initially put that on, but then took it off again prior to these pictures. What else is it that needs to come off? Here's a picture of what I had prior to this EIB post to help. Thanks!

 

Prior pictures:

 

IMG_7327.jpg

 

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Posted

We are talking about the existing one the comes on the toy blaster that houses the speaker box...that needs to be removed :)

Posted

Ah...that's what that is! I had no idea that's what it was supposed to be. Way to go, Hasbro...

 

Any good way to get that off without destroying the blaster? It looks pretty solid.

 

We are talking about the existing one the comes on the toy blaster that houses the speaker box...that needs to be removed :)
Posted
Ah...that's what that is! I had no idea that's what it was supposed to be. Way to go, Hasbro...

 

Any good way to get that off without destroying the blaster? It looks pretty solid.

 

Here you go:

http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showtopic=8650

 

Your on the right track, you'll be EIB in no time.

Posted
Ah...that's what that is! I had no idea that's what it was supposed to be. Way to go, Hasbro...

 

Any good way to get that off without destroying the blaster? It looks pretty solid.

there are people that have the know how to take that off and sculpt it to work for ESB...sadly, I'm not one of them...I'd just get a blaster that is a prop replica :)

Posted

Thanks for the steer. One more question...I'd like to replace the canvas shims with plastic, but I've been having trouble finding a good source of plastic. I read on here somewhere that someone used "for sale" signs, but all the ones I've seen are way too thin. Aside from using belt pieces (which I don't have), what is recommended for closing the sides?

Posted

Wow...just looked at that thread you sent, Super. That is probably beyond my skill level. I think I may just put the doopy counter back on, sell it, and try to find a good ESB blaster somewhere, ideally one that doesn't cost a ton. Most of the ones I've seen for sale are AHN, so this ought to be a fun hunt.

Posted

I have seen people use "white paint buckets" and "white plastic garbage cans" cut to size

Posted

That's funny...my wife and I were in Target the other day, and we were actually joking about trying that. We just weren't sure how to get the bend out.

 

I have seen people use "white paint buckets" and "white plastic garbage cans" cut to size
Posted

use the flatter side of the garbage can...it should contour to your body "depending on the thickness of the plastic"

Posted
use the flatter side of the garbage can...it should contour to your body "depending on the thickness of the plastic"

 

Yeah, that might work..I'm not a big guy, so it's not like I need a ton of plastic. The real challenge will be getting it to line up with the existing pieces, and then figuring out how to secure it.

Posted

One more question: Is it ok to rivet the holster to the belt after looping it over? The security would be nice. Thanks!

Posted

Looking over your application pics for ESB i noticed the following..

 

The holster must be looped over the belt and not riveted ANH style as you have.

 

The helmet decals need to be ESB style, yours look like ANH ( are they standard MRCE? )

 

The ab plate buttons look to be too big ( are they 15mm? )

 

The blaster needs the counter removing.

 

The butt split need to be visible under the belt and the rear.

Posted

Hi, a couple more questions, probably for the admins, I guess.

 

1. I have been planning to obtain a DL-19. Do I need both the E-11 and the DL-19, or is it one or the other? Also, if I carry a bfg, do I need the holster?

 

2. I am working towards making the suggested modifications, such as correct holster looping (assuming I need that), plastic ab shims, and correct E-11 (if needed). When I finish all this, do I need to make a new thread or simply update this one?

 

Thanks!

Posted
Looking over your application pics for ESB i noticed the following..

 

The holster must be looped over the belt and not riveted ANH style as you have.

 

The helmet decals need to be ESB style, yours look like ANH ( are they standard MRCE? )

 

The ab plate buttons look to be too big ( are they 15mm? )

 

The blaster needs the counter removing.

 

The butt split need to be visible under the belt and the rear.

 

Thanks for the thoughts. I have been looking at the holster...is it simply looped, or can I rivet it on after looping? I am also looking into the ab button issue, and hope to have that resolved shortly. The blaster is being worked out as well, and I'll be tweaking the belt placement.

 

I did want some further clarification on the decals, however. I was under the impression after reading around the board that AHN and ESB were pretty similar, the only major difference being the frown. Here's the thread I was reading...any thoughts?

 

http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?show...l=helmet+decals

 

Thanks!

Posted

Could you just rivet the inner loop (part that goes under the belt) to the belt. That way the loop part that is exposed doesn't have rivets visible, but you have the security of the inner part being riveted?

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