polardude1983 Posted November 8, 2009 Report Posted November 8, 2009 I'm wanting to only spend about $400-$700 is FX armor the only armor that would be within that price range or could AP be in that price range too? Quote
darren1970[501st] Posted November 8, 2009 Report Posted November 8, 2009 I'm pretty sure that ATA armour comes within that price bracket too bro. Quote
J2H Posted November 8, 2009 Report Posted November 8, 2009 I only have about 400-500 for armor as well, I didnt know about ATA armor (just now googled it) but I inquired with Tupperware TK about FX Lite. Quote
bluehickey Posted November 8, 2009 Report Posted November 8, 2009 The other thing you have to consider is the cost of all of the other things that make up the costume besides the armor cost: -boots -gloves -neck seal -under armor -glue, straps, snaps, tools etc. These alone will add another couple of hundred bucks, not to mention the additional, but not completely necessary: -blaster -blaster holster -fans in helmet -bin to hold all of your armor Quote
J2H Posted November 8, 2009 Report Posted November 8, 2009 My concern is knocking the big purchase (armor and bucket) out of the way 1st. Quote
naatsirhc[TK] Posted November 8, 2009 Report Posted November 8, 2009 My concern is knocking the big purchase (armor and bucket) out of the way 1st. ATA can be easily done with your budget. Your accessories will be $250-$300 easy. Quote
J2H Posted November 8, 2009 Report Posted November 8, 2009 Now the kicker, where can I find ATA? On another note found ATIN Miller clone armor for 325. Quote
GosHawk[501st] Posted November 8, 2009 Report Posted November 8, 2009 I would do a search for ATA. There are tons of posts on the armor with lots of info. Just fyi about cost, after I was finished with my suit I had spent about $1200 total. Quote
J2H Posted November 8, 2009 Report Posted November 8, 2009 Right, I just want to get the large expensive parts out of the way first. Quote
TK 6918[501st] Posted November 8, 2009 Report Posted November 8, 2009 There is going to be another armor called AM which will replace the FX style suit if your willing to wait a bit... It will be more accurate than the FX, but otherwise will have the same characteristics. ATA is more accurate than both though. Quote
J2H Posted November 8, 2009 Report Posted November 8, 2009 I think I'm going to lose out on the clone armor anyway since i don't have the funds til Friday, so I think I will go with ATA. Quote
Topgun[TK] Posted November 9, 2009 Report Posted November 9, 2009 Ive done bussiness with tupperwaretk and ATAworks, their both very good, ive got an FX suit with an ATA lid. my next suit will be ATA though. Quote
J2H Posted November 9, 2009 Report Posted November 9, 2009 Yeah, I hope to hear something this week from both of them. Quote
Daetrin[Admin] Posted November 9, 2009 Report Posted November 9, 2009 The reality is this is not a cheap hobby. $1000 for your first suit is pretty average when you add it all up. With ATA you can go a little cheaper, you can also easily climb to $1500 or more with upgrades. This is not a cheap hobby by any stretch of the imagination. Heck, even an officer can be $500. An IN (Imperial Navy) helmet alone can go for between $250-$500 :-p Quote
MiDri Posted November 9, 2009 Report Posted November 9, 2009 $1400 and counting (that includes tools that I needed to get; snap clamps etc...) Quote
polardude1983 Posted November 9, 2009 Author Report Posted November 9, 2009 My Jango Fett suit was like $1,300. but i stopped at the leather holsters and guns for money reasons but thats the only thing i'm missing. This time around i am hoping to not spend as much. I know its like $500 for FX armor then Boots of course, new helmet of course, gun, lol not sure what else that does not come with the FX armor. Anyways I can't buy anything yet so I can only just research. Maybe I might be able to do ATA or something. Quote
J2H Posted November 9, 2009 Report Posted November 9, 2009 I'm probably going to go with ATA (350 for armor with helmet), then start working on upgrades, etc Quote
polardude1983 Posted November 9, 2009 Author Report Posted November 9, 2009 $350 for armor sounds awesome. Though I have no faith in myself for painting, priming and sanding. Quote
dougefresh Posted November 9, 2009 Report Posted November 9, 2009 (edited) polardude1983 said: $350 for armor sounds awesome. Though I have no faith in myself for painting, priming and sanding. Christoph-- I'm absolute crap with a spray can, and I got pretty decent results with the helmet I painted this summer. It's easier than you think. All you really need to do is take your time-- and be willing to do things over, if needed. I think you'll surprise yourself. Honestly. Follow the last set of videos in this link to the letter, and you'll do just fine, I bet: ------------ Edited February 23, 2022 by gmrhodes13 link not working removed Quote
polardude1983 Posted November 9, 2009 Author Report Posted November 9, 2009 Is it truely needed to sand? When i repainted my pc people said i need to sand it first. and i did now that side of my computer is completely rough! I'm glad i didnt sand all the other stuff on my pc when i repainted it Quote
dougefresh Posted November 9, 2009 Report Posted November 9, 2009 Is it truely needed to sand? When i repainted my pc people said i need to sand it first. and i did now that side of my computer is completely rough! I'm glad i didnt sand all the other stuff on my pc when i repainted it I would strongly recommend it. You want to use really fine-grit (1500 or so) wet/dry sandpaper though-- that way you'll avoid a rough finish. Between that, and the priming, it will be smooth as glass. At the very least, if you get ATA armor, make sure you wash it really well before you paint it. He uses baby-powder as a release agent to help get the plastic off the molds, and if you don't wash it, the paint finish will be horrendous. A sponge, some warm water and a little Simple Green, or mild dishwashing soap will work great! Quote
polardude1983 Posted November 10, 2009 Author Report Posted November 10, 2009 Can i sand by hand? or is it necessary to find someone with a sanding powertool? Quote
pandatrooper[TK] Posted November 10, 2009 Report Posted November 10, 2009 Sanding by hand is slower but safer. You don't really need a power tool to roughen up the plastic for painting. It drives me nuts when I see people painting on TV, and they just hold down the nozzle and waggle back and forth. The keys to good painting are prep, a clean environment and good painting techniques. My brother was an autobody technician for many years, it's crazy what he can do with mangled metal and make it look new. He taught me well. - after you sand whatever it is you're painting, blow off the dust and wash the item in detergent and water. This will remove: - any release agents on plastic - any dust - any finger prints / oils from your skin that may prevent paint from sticking - let the parts air dry - find a clean / dust free environment to paint with circulation. wear a mask and gloves if necessary. wash your hands before handling parts - spray a primer if needed - do light thin coats. Hold the spray can about 8-10" away, and prepare to gesture across the the object - press the nozzle before you pass over the object, and release the button after you've passed the object - overlap your strokes - do THIN coats. never be tempted to get extra coverage in 1 coat - it's better to do multiple thin coats to get coverage, rather than 1 or 2 thick coats - time your coats properly. read the directions on the can, it will tell you when to recoat, and how long to let things dry - let the object dry thoroughly before handling assembling. Good luck! Quote
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