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ABS vs HIPS


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Ok, so I found a guy that makes ATA out of HIPS and a guy that makes FX out of ABS. I have been told the ATA is more accurate, but T. Rooper warned me that HIPS wont last long. But it is much more reasonable than the FX. The guy who makes the ATA said his chest/back may/may not work for my larger chest cavity. So, if the chest works, which would be a better buy for someone just starting out?

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In my opinion you cant beat a HIPS helmet and you can't beat an ABS set of body armor. ABS is dang near indestructable and my body armor really takes a beating. HIPS makes for better helmets I think because of the greater detail that is yeilded by HIPS plastic and the helmet doesn't see near the abuse that body armor will experience. Plus having ABS body armor and a painted HIPS helmet is more screen accurate than all ABS or all HIPS.

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I would take the chance on the ATA, if it doesn't fit you can always substitute in an FX chest and and back plate. Most armor suppliers will have no problem providing you with "replacement parts"

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ABS will always be more durable than HIPS. My experience though is that for normal trooping HIPS works just fine. I toted my TE2 (which is HIPS) from the US to China, trooped the great wall, etc. and never had problems. Then again, I'd play a few downs of football in ABS armor, but wouldn't dare put my TE2 to that strain.

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ABS will always be more durable than HIPS. My experience though is that for normal trooping HIPS works just fine. I toted my TE2 (which is HIPS) from the US to China, trooped the great wall, etc. and never had problems. Then again, I'd play a few downs of football in ABS armor, but wouldn't dare put my TE2 to that strain.

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If I did a HIPS helmet and ABS armor wouldn't there be a color difference?

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HIPS has to be painted because it's a matte white. ABS has a slight pink or blue/green cast depending on who makes it. But watch the movies close, many times there are mismatched whites with the armor and helmets.

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I agree with smitty, in a ideal world the idea to go HIPs/helmet, abs armor is probably the best as a all around thing.

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and like paul said if u are into normal trooping, visiting hospital,doing charety work, standing and looking prutty hips is awesome,great detail.

Ā 

Now if u are playing to run with the bulls in pamplona Spain FX is you armor lol LOL

U get the idea.

Ā 

Do some more research on both HIPS and ABS, analyze what u think or want to do with the trooping thing and then balance which will suit u best, remember that at the end of the day after the endless rounds down empty corridors and sub setions were ever u end up being deployed, u are the one that will be waering the armor ;)

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HIPS has to be painted because it's a matte white. ABS has a slight pink or blue/green cast depending on who makes it. But watch the movies close, many times there are mismatched whites with the armor and helmets.

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Oh NO! Really? How the heck do you paint it? I tried painting trim on my car and it wouldny dry overnight. Not my best talent...

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Oh NO! Really? How the heck do you paint it? I tried painting trim on my car and it wouldny dry overnight. Not my best talent...

Ā 

Brandon -- you sand it, then you use an aerosol primer and aerosol gloss top-coat to paint it.

I won't lie and say it's the easiest thing in the world to do, but it's not the most difficult, either.

You just need to be willing to do a lot of research -- you can find a TON of amazing tutorials right here -- and exercise a lot of patience.

It helps to have some skill, no doubt, but it you do enough reading beforehand, and can imitate what you've read, you'll usually be just fine.

Ā 

Depending on the paint you use, you'll need to let it dry up to a week before you handle it.

Generally speaking, the shinier the gloss, the longer it takes to cure.

Ā 

I'm not particularly gifted with a spray-can, but I followed Mike's tutorials closely (TK-1450) and I'm pretty happy with how mine turned out.

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Yeah, and relax the original stunt helmets had very messy paint jobs. ;)

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If you are going for a Hero look then both helmet and armor were ABS. The stunt had the same ABS suits with HDPE helmets.

Ā 

It sound like a good idea to try the ATA if you arent gonna abuse it.

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Brandon -- you sand it, then you use an aerosol primer and aerosol gloss top-coat to paint it.

I won't lie and say it's the easiest thing in the world to do, but it's not the most difficult, either.

You just need to be willing to do a lot of research -- you can find a TON of amazing tutorials right here -- and exercise a lot of patience.

It helps to have some skill, no doubt, but it you do enough reading beforehand, and can imitate what you've read, you'll usually be just fine.

Ā 

Depending on the paint you use, you'll need to let it dry up to a week before you handle it.

Generally speaking, the shinier the gloss, the longer it takes to cure.

Ā 

I'm not particularly gifted with a spray-can, but I followed Mike's tutorials closely (TK-1450) and I'm pretty happy with how mine turned out.

Ā 

You have much more faith in my abilities than anyone I know. I think I can, then end up messing it up, or in the case of my car trim, the humidity affects the paint. ANd the paint fumes while it was drying in my dining area sucked....

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sorta on topic, are there armor makers out there that make ATA in ABS? I have some friends that can't stop drooling over my AP but can't aford to put down the big bucks I did and they've seen FX suit and hate them.

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sorta on topic, are there armor makers out there that make ATA in ABS? I have some friends that can't stop drooling over my AP but can't aford to put down the big bucks I did and they've seen FX suit and hate them.

Ā 

AP, and TM are the only makers I know of pulling accurate ANH suits in ABS with any regularity.

TE does ROTJ suits in ABS, I believe, as well.

Ā 

TE2 and ATA only offer HIPS.

Ā 

Part of the reason ATA is so affordable is that he's not pulling in ABS.

Raw ABS plastic is more expensive, and it takes a much beefier vac table to be able to do it well.

From what I understand, ABS also puts a lot more wear-and-tear on the bucks.

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AP, and TM are the only makers I know of pulling accurate ANH suits in ABS with any regularity.

TE does ROTJ suits in ABS, I believe, as well.

Ā 

TE2 and ATA only offer HIPS.

Ā 

Part of the reason ATA is so affordable is that he's not pulling in ABS.

Raw ABS plastic is more expensive, and it takes a much beefier vac table to be able to do it well.

From what I understand, ABS also puts a lot more wear-and-tear on the bucks.

Ā 

What is TE and TE2? The aberrations posting doesn't have it. And what do you mean by "wear and tear on the bucks"?

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What is TE and TE2? The aberrations posting doesn't have it. And what do you mean by "wear and tear on the bucks"?

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TE and TE2 are armor makers.

Ā 

Bucks are the moulds the plastic is formed over.

I'm not an expert by any stretch of the imagination, but I've read that makers who pull suits in ABS have to repair and/or replace their moulds more often, which I imagine contributes slightly to cost.

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TE and TE2 are armor makers. Wear and tear on the bucks is referring to the molds being used to form the armor.

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WHat do they stand for? Its hard to get used to all these different "brands". Also, what would be a situation or situations you would rather have ABS than HIPS?

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TE stands for TrooperExpert, TE2 is the same, just with a 2 after it to signify 2nd generation owner.

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You want ABS if you're going to be rough with you armor during trooper or storage. HIPS is good for trooping, but as Daetrin says, You can't super rough with HIPS

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WHat do they stand for? Its hard to get used to all these different "brands". Also, what would be a situation or situations you would rather have ABS than HIPS?

Ā 

I hear ya'. The acronyms get a little overwhelming sometimes. We're worse than teenage girls sending text messages :)

Ā 

TE stands for "Trooper Expert". -- He was basically the guy who started the whole "screen-accurate" phenomenon in the hobby.

He was the first person to get his hands on an Return of the Jedi set of armor and a couple helmets from A New Hope.

He has since sold those moulds, and is now only producing ROTJ armor and helmets.

Ā 

TE2 stands for "Trooper Expert 2", and is the moniker being used by the maker who purchased the original TE's set of moulds.

He currently produces armor in HIPS, but usually does so in limited runs.

Ā 

The advantages of ABS are durability and strength. It's a bit more rugged, and more tear & crack resistant than HIPS. The disadvantages are that it typically doesn't yield as much detail and sharpness as HIPS. It's a little bit more difficult to cut and bend during assembly as well. ABS comes with a high-gloss finish, and doesn't require painting.

Ā 

HIPS, although somewhat less resilient than ABS, lends itself to very sharp detail. It's also an easier material to vac-form, which is why you see more armor being made from it. During assembly, it's very easy to trim, and shape... slightly more so than ABS.

It is, however, a bit less durable and may require reinforcing, or periodic maintenance, if you troop a lot.

Lastly, HIPS typically comes in a matte finish and requires sanding, priming and painting to achieve a high-gloss finish.

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I hear ya'. The acronyms get a little overwhelming sometimes. We're worse than teenage girls sending text messages :)

Ā 

TE stands for "Trooper Expert". -- He was basically the guy who started the whole "screen-accurate" phenomenon in the hobby.

He was the first person to get his hands on an Return of the Jedi set of armor and a couple helmets from A New Hope.

He has since sold those moulds, and is now only producing ROTJ armor and helmets.

Ā 

TE2 stands for "Trooper Expert 2", and is the moniker being used by the maker who purchased the original TE's set of moulds.

He currently produces armor in HIPS, but usually does so in limited runs.

Ā 

The advantages of ABS are durability and strength. It's a bit more rugged, and more tear & crack resistant than HIPS. The disadvantages are that it typically doesn't yield as much detail and sharpness as HIPS. It's a little bit more difficult to cut and bend during assembly as well. ABS comes with a high-gloss finish, and doesn't require painting.

Ā 

HIPS, although somewhat less resilient than ABS, lends itself to very sharp detail. It's also an easier material to vac-form, which is why you see more armor being made from it. During assembly, it's very easy to trim, and shape... slightly more so than ABS.

It is, however, a bit less durable and may require reinforcing, or periodic maintenance, if you troop a lot.

Lastly, HIPS typically comes in a matte finish and requires sanding, priming and painting to achieve a high-gloss finish.

Great explanation :duim: .

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Yes, that helps.

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Now, I have no idea what I will be doing with the armor. I know Conventions, maybe guy on the street interviews for youtube, so what would be good examples of things you wouldn't do with HIPS in trooping?

Ā 

Oh, and does the tutorial mentioned suggest a primer and paint?

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Oh, and does the tutorial mentioned suggest a primer and paint?

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It does: Rustoleum Professional High Performance Enamel.

Mike also suggests using sandable Rustoleum Painter's Touch primer.

Ā 

I had really positive results with that combo.

Ā 

Just make sure that whatever paint you use, you select the same brand for both the primer and the top coat.

If you use Krylon primer, use Krylon paint. If you use Rustoleum primer, use Rustoleum paint, etc.

Apparently, mixing brands with primers and paints can yield some pretty gnarly results.

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It does: Rustoleum Professional High Performance Enamel.

Mike also suggests using sandable Rustoleum Painter's Touch primer.

Ā 

I had really positive results with that combo.

Ā 

Just make sure that whatever paint you use, you select the same brand for both the primer and the top coat.

Apparently, mixing primers and paints can yield some pretty gnarly results.

Ā 

So its just a clear gloss?

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So its just a clear gloss?

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Nope. It's really nice paint! It's enamel based, so you get a really cool candy-like shell when it cures, almost like auto-body paint.

When you're finished, it will look like the helmet is made from super high-gloss ABS.

You need prime first, to fill in any surface irregularities, and so the enamel has something to adhere to.

The Rustoleum enamel doesn't bond well to bare plastic, apparently.

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Nope. It's really nice paint! It's enamel based, so you get a really cool candy-like shell when it cures, almost like auto-body paint.

It has a lot of depth to it.

You need prime first, to fill in any surface irregularities, and so the enamel has something to adhere to.

The Rustoleum enamel doesn't bond well to bare plastic, apparently.

Ā 

Hmm, wonder if anyone had tried the Plastic Rustolium? Its supposed to bond really well. What about chipping? Does it chip easily?

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