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Posted

Hey guys, here's where I'm at with my blaster.

 

To get my EIB I need to complete my conversion. From the pics below, what will I need to do to get it good enough to get my EIB? I would like to get the greeblies at some point as well, but for now I just want to do the essential parts for my EIB.

 

This is my understanding of what I need:

T-Tracks, a D-Ring and a Mag and the part that goes on the front?

 

I know the T-tracks are glued into the shaft of the blaster, but how do i get the t-tracks that are already on the blaster off? do I just cut them with the dremmel? and then sand it back, and drill the extra holes in it's place, then glue the tracks on?

 

What is the d-ring, is that the part that goes on the back of the blaster?

 

I know i don't need the hengsler counter as I'm ESB, but i need the MAG.

 

what is the part called on the front of the blaster? I know i need to cut off the red part and replace it with an add on, but what's it called?

 

I already have the stock as you can see. Does anyone have these parts they could sell me? i don't need an entire kit as I'm going ESB and I already have the stock.

 

Is there good ESB Hasbro Conversion tute out there? I'm having trouble finding one, let me know, cheers!

 

dave.

 

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Posted

WHOOPS!

 

Sorry guys, didn't mean to post this topic twice! feel free to delete one of them (admins) sorry again.

Posted

Dave, I've got the mag, the D-ring and the T-track you need, but I don't have the front nozzle thingie. You don't need to grind off the T-tracks that are there, just cover the spots that are vacant.

Posted

For the Hasbro to meet EIB requirements, you need to make sure the T-rack is correctly placed. You don't need to grind them all off, but certain ones need to be in the right places.

 

Per EIB guidelines:

 

* Hasbro blasters:

-- Total of 7 T-racks (if you cover all the original Hasbro rows of holes)

-- or 6 T-racks (if you cover the original Hasbro "open row" of holes on the Hengstler side. Below this, you must grind off the original Hasbro lower T-rack and drill a new row of holes)

Posted

My ESB hasbro mod thread is on page 2 of the blasters section. I used a doopy-doos kit and made my own greeblies. I was attemting to mimic a screen cast blaster. There are a lot of good hasbro blaster mods, you just need to scroll thru the pages in the blaster section and click on the various hasbro mods.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted
thanks for the help guys! DaveJ pm sent regarding those parts.

 

I cant find the post, but someone on the board sells the t-racks. Can someone kindly point me to that direction? And I had heard that d-rings were at Lowes. Is that true? If not, where did you all get yours?

Posted

The link is here.

 

http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showtopic=8783

 

For the D ring, I simply took some aluminum wire and bent it to shape. It's just a simple oval, so you can pretty much use any thick wire to mimic the look. It's not like you're going to hang a sling on it anyways. :)

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Hey guys, I have my parts for my blaster now, thanks to some local garrison friends, I have all the parts i need to complete my ESB hasbro conversion, but I have a few questions....

 

here are all my parts i have for the build.

 

lfhqpma.jpg

 

Here's a shot of my blaster at the moment:

 

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the d-ring part i have sourced is a complete end cap. I'm assuming i need to completly cut off the end of the blaster with a dremmel, then glue this back piece on? or do i glue it onto the back as it is?

 

UOCq3kB.jpg

 

my next question is about the mag, it fits perfectly onto the side, and locks in, but what should i use to permanatly stick it there? ABS glue? or hot glue? the glue question is for all the parts of the blaster really, i don't know what glue to use.

 

xoADGoY.jpg

 

As for the t-tracks, is the adhesive strip on the back enough to stick it down? or should i use something stronger to glue it in place?

 

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once i cut off the front hasbro nozzel (keeping the light intact, hopefully) is this the right way to have the nozzel facing. with the middle circle pointing to the right like a pac man face?

 

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any ideas on how i can make my folding stock NOT useable? I'm sick of it coming loose, how should I glue it in place? again,the main question for this post is "what glue to use"

 

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Now I know that in the states they have this E-6000 glue, but over here, we don't have that brand, but I think from what I've read that normal plumber's ABS glue is the same stuff right?

 

Anyway, a bit of advice on these pressing issues would be greatly appreciated, I hope to finish the blaster this week so I can apply for my EIB and be one of the first 100!

 

P.S

 

naatsirhc's thread has been very helpful, I'm looking forward to cutting the hasbro henglser counter off with my dremmel very soon! I'll be sure to upload pics of the progress!

 

Dave.

Posted

I'm assuming i need to completly cut off the end of the blaster with a dremmel, then glue this back piece on? or do i glue it onto the back as it is?

 

The back cap has to come off leaving the overall length in tact. If you cut off the existing back cap, there is not enough room to slide the new one on with the molded pieces on the end…look at the photo, you’ll see what I mean.

 

i don't know what glue to use.

 

Hmmmm….check with your garrison or hopefully someone else can answer this one.

 

As for the t-tracks, is the adhesive strip on the back enough to stick it down?

 

Should be good to go, stick it on and give it a tug (make sure it's clean first). If not, use glue.

 

is this the right way to have the nozzel facing. with the middle circle pointing to the right like a pac man face?

 

Yupper!

 

any ideas on how i can make my folding stock NOT useable?

 

Yup, take it off and sell it to me! I’d be happy to get you a non-functional doopydoos. It’s metal right? Try magnets. I'd hate for you to permanently modify it, perhaps if you sell it one day the next person would want the stock working.

 

i'm looking forward to cutting the hasbro henglser counter off with my dremmel very soon!

 

This is a pretty serious modification, I would think twice about this one, were I you. It can turn out pretty poorly if you don’t have the skills to make it perfect.

 

Vic

Posted

The back / end cap looks like one for a PVC pipe kit. I would carefully measure the diameter of the body / tube of the blaster before cutting the end off and installing that cap. The more common approach with the doopydoos kit is that the back has a small round plate with a tab for a D ring. Again, this looks like the rear cap for a PVC blaster build to me.

 

For glue, you can use 2 part epoxy or good old E6000. Just sand the parts before joining.

 

Regarding the removal of the Hasbro counter, check for a few threads on here about that. As Vic mentioned, you're in for more patching / covering if you cut the old one off, so be prepared for more work.

Posted

In fact, going off of what Panda said; perhaps you could just cut off the part of the end cap that contains the "d" ring and apply that section with glue (and maybe a little bondo). Just a thought.

 

Vic

Posted

Here's some progress pics guys, I know it's looking a little rough, but once I putty it up and sand it back, it'll look the dogs. the glue is still drying as i post, thats why it looks a little shiney! what do ya think?

 

dave.

 

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Posted

Coming along. I assume you're going to fill that void with some kind of epoxy putty or bondo or something?

 

One more small thing (I think it might have been mentioned above) since you have that real folding stock, it might be nice someday to extend your barrel a bit longer, so that the stock doesn't stick out so much. The Hasbro has an unrealistically short barrel compared to the a real Sterling (among other changes). Extending the barrel would make it look awesome!

Posted

Hey Hey! I've finished my Hasbro Mod ESB Build! woo hoo! I'll post the pics here, to complete this thread, and I'll add them to my EIB thread aswell for ya'll to check out. alright! ;) (I love holidays)

 

Here's a couple of shots of the putty stage, some sanding needed.

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I took more progress shots, but here's the finished ones!

 

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