Madmartigan Posted September 21, 2009 Report Posted September 21, 2009 (edited) I'm at a total loss. Can't get the damn things in without bending them every which way and then losing the mesh! Already trashed three attempts. Anyone got tips on how to make this easy? I thought someone had said they formed theirs over a socket or something. How do you cut them and then get then installed without it flying to bits??? -Chris Edited March 22, 2010 by Daetrin udpated title, moved to TIPS Quote
TK-2126_MD[TK] Posted September 21, 2009 Report Posted September 21, 2009 Hmm.... all three mics i have, had a little slot inside, bearly visable. i would put it in sideways and push ever so gentle and used a q-tip to push some more and then used a tooth pick for fine tuning. Quote
dougefresh Posted September 21, 2009 Report Posted September 21, 2009 I'm at a total loss. Can't get the damn things in without bending them every which way and then losing the mesh! Already trashed three attempts. Anyone got tips on how to make this easy? I thought someone had said they formed theirs over a socket or something. How do you cut them and then get then installed without it flying to bits??? -Chris Here's how I did mine... Before putting them in the Hovi, a put just a *tiny* bit of CA glue around the edge of the screen. Then I took an Xacto blade, inserted the point into the mesh, and kind of lowered them into the Hovi, sideways-- so that the mesh disc was running parallel with the longest wall of the Hovi. Once I had them in the cylinder, I used the Xacto blade to wedge one side of the screen at the level I wanted-- if you can picture it in your head, I had the screen about 45 degrees from horizontal at that point. I held it there for just a few seconds, so that the CA glue would get slightly tacky. Once the screen had stuck to one side of the Hovi, I removed the Xacto knife, and then re-inserted the tip of the blade in the lower side of the screen. Using just a small amount of pressure, I drug the lower side to the same level -- so that the screen was perpendicular with the walls of the Hovi. From there, the few drops of CA glue held it in place. Not sure how much sense that makes, but I hope it helps. I'll be finishing the mic tips in my ATA soon, so if you'd think it would help, I'd be happy to take pictures. Just let me know! Quote
GosHawk[501st] Posted September 21, 2009 Report Posted September 21, 2009 Good tips. I just pushed with my fingers ever so slightly, then got sone needle nose pliers and gently pulled the parts that went to far in. Not the most fancy of ways but it got the job done Quote
trooper18938 Posted September 22, 2009 Report Posted September 22, 2009 It depends on the mesh you use - Stompers come w/ the standard faucet mesh, and fit in his Hovis perfectly. However, I replaced the mesh w/ some more accurate, heavier gauge stuff I had from the faceplate of a Bell motocross helmet. Just snip around the circle slowly, and form it over one of your fingers - worked great Quote
gazmosis[501st] Posted March 14, 2010 Report Posted March 14, 2010 I just inished my hovis and I am damn happy with them. I referenced the hovis I bought from "keith" overseas. They are black with a white insert. The screen is sandwiched between the outside of the insert and the inside of the hovi for a clean look. I bought a set of hovis with no screen, insert or hardware. Here's what I did. The Hovi mic's inside diameter is exactly 5/8 of an inch. This is the same OUTSIDE diameter of white PVC plumbing pipe. First, I carefully drilled out the hovi with a 5/8 forstener drill bit. This is a woodworkers bit that drills flat bottomed holes. But any 5/8 bit should do. The pipe then fit perfectly into the hovi......too perfect because it left no room for the screen. I took the pipe to the bench grinder and ground down the outside of the pipe until it fit in the hovi with a little room to spare. IT DOESN'T TAKE MUCH. I then determined how much pipe I wanted in the hovi. There should be a little room in the hovi between the insert and the end of the tip. I cut the pipe to length, sanded the end of the pipe flat to get rid of any rough edges, wrapped my mesh around it, and carefully pressed it into the hovi. I was left with an opening at the bottom of the hovi where the screw post will be. I took a small piece of 1/8 inch thick plastic, drilled a small hole and inserted my screw all the way down. I then took this to the bench grinder and ground the edges down intil it fit into the opening at the bottom. Placed it in and epoxied it. DONE!!! Quote
TKittell[501st] Posted April 1, 2010 Report Posted April 1, 2010 I used a chapstick end to form my mesh. They fit in the hovi openings perfectly. Before inserting, I put a thin layer of E-6000 on the inside of the hovis to keep the mesh in place once dry. Quote
SupaTrooper Posted April 2, 2010 Report Posted April 2, 2010 (edited) Hi guys, other than the mesh that comes with a hovic mic kit I notice the originals are quite thick - looking more like a cut off section from a real hand held mic which gives it a slight curve-age. So im interested to now what other people have used besides tap aerators and fly screen mesh. Edited April 2, 2010 by SupaTrooper Quote
gazmosis[501st] Posted April 24, 2010 Report Posted April 24, 2010 The stuff I used is a metal mesh available at hobby stores. It is used to form mountains for train diaramas. It costs about $5 and you get enough to make about 1000 hovis. Quote
LittleOne Posted June 23, 2011 Report Posted June 23, 2011 (edited) I use a metal socket that was the size of the entry of the hovie mic... i gently tapped the mesh around the socket and repeated the process until i could insert the mesh with a certain amount of pressure but without bending it...the trick i think is to have your mesh cut as small as possible so you barely have to ben a few parts... mine turned out way better than expected, what i tought was gonna be hard turned out to be fairly easy... --------- Edited December 9, 2020 by gmrhodes13 link not working, removed gmrhodes13 2020 Quote
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