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HOWTO: Make snap plates


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I see this question asked lots so thought i would put a little something to help troopers starting out.

 

Tools.Now these have a funny name they are called Vario Pliers

 

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Measure and cut some plastic lets call these Tabs these can be all sizes depending on where you are putting them. see example pictures at the end of the topic

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Make the centre of your Tab

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For the most part,the male Snap fits into the Tab

 

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us the pliers on the Snap and tab then Sqeeeeze its that easy.

 

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Finished ready for the glue.

 

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As for the Glue i have always used ABS plastic weld .Its a liquid just like water and is applied with a small brush.

 

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Plastic weld dissolves a thin layer on each surface to be joined,then it evaporates very quickly foaming a welded join. The weld is as strong as the surounding plastic.

For best results hold the two pieces of plastic together and with a small brush apply the plastic weld around the join.Capillary actionwill spread it the length and bredth of the join,foaming a continuous sold weld.It is almost an invisable join.

Plastic weld can be used on ABS,STYRENE,BUTYRATE,PERSPEX and also HIPS.Science lesson over now for some more pictures.

 

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The female Snap for the most part fits to your webbing ,elastic or fabric

 

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To finish a nice example of the shoulder and arm Snap and Tab system.

 

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Hope that helps your builds along the way.

Edited by stukatrooper
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Where does one purchase the ABS Plastic Weld glue?? Particularly in the United States?

 

I bought mine at a model railroading store, here in Denver.

I would think most hobby stores would have it-- anywhere that sells model kits, RC cars, etc.

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Where does one purchase the ABS Plastic Weld glue?? Particularly in the United States?

 

I had a quick google and the most common and readily available plastic weld state side is this fellow,it even has a brush built into the lid.

 

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Any hobby shop worth its title should stock it and there is mail order.I found plenty on the web.

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That's awesome dude, I saw you posting over on the BSN with that dude who needed help with MLC snaps / squares assembly. I posted on there too, but I ony have the stupid punch tool.

 

You should copy this entire presentation there for him as well, it's VERY helpful and I think would benefit him...

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That's awesome dude, I saw you posting over on the BSN with that dude who needed help with MLC snaps / squares assembly. I posted on there too, but I ony have the stupid punch tool.

 

You should copy this entire presentation there for him as well, it's VERY helpful and I think would benefit him...

 

done. :D

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I read you should make 1-1 1/4" squares. What size squares go where? I'm putting this together this weekend and would love to know exactly how to do it. Thanks guys. :D

 

The size of the plates are not set in stone you can make them as big as you like.the ref pictures i put up are of a plate size 40mm x40mm The ones i use on the arms are cut to fit in the grove detail so are about 20mm x 40mm .

 

The trick is to alow enough plastic past the snap to get a good footprint or bonding area.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Pete,

 

I love that you sand and round off the corners to make your tabs look neat. How Adrian Monk of you! :D

 

Is there a reason you'd have to actually mount the snap to the plastic tabs with the hole and backing versus just CA gluing it on? I've CA glued the male ends of snaps onto ABS before with no problems. However, I can see how -- between the snap actually being mounted on the tab and the tab being welded with the ABS glue to the armor piece -- this would be well-nigh impossible to remove.

 

-Chris

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Pete,

 

I love that you sand and round off the corners to make your tabs look neat. How Adrian Monk of you! :D

 

Is there a reason you'd have to actually mount the snap to the plastic tabs with the hole and backing versus just CA gluing it on? I've CA glued the male ends of snaps onto ABS before with no problems. However, I can see how -- between the snap actually being mounted on the tab and the tab being welded with the ABS glue to the armor piece -- this would be well-nigh impossible to remove.

 

-Chris

 

The problems I've had with CA is that over time it seems that the stress of the joint will break the glue loose. I've not had good luck with a metal to plastic bond using CA. It can hold, but the strength is not great, and I've had the metal parts pull away in time. Now a snap that is attached to the actual plastic and a CA bond to plastic on plastic.. it's like a ROCK.

 

When attaching a snap through plastic, be sure you have a "rod" long enough to clear the plastic. This will be sure that the snap connection is good as well, so you don't have a case of popping the female or male connector off the back on the snap. Remember that Plastic on plastic bond for CA is like a ROCK... it's not a fun fix.

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I use the snap system with tabs as well, and the only time I´ve had a snap come off, was one where I made the plastic tab too small. The plastic weld type glue does nothing for the metal backing on the snaps, only the surrounding plastic tab gets welded to the suit. So if you´re using plastic weld, make sure the tabs are big enough to have enough surface to really bond well with the armor parts.

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I picked up a bottle of that plastic weld, and so far it's making some awesome results on my armour. My biceps are almost done!!

 

Pete,

 

I love that you sand and round off the corners to make your tabs look neat. How Adrian Monk of you! :D

 

Is there a reason you'd have to actually mount the snap to the plastic tabs with the hole and backing versus just CA gluing it on? I've CA glued the male ends of snaps onto ABS before with no problems. However, I can see how -- between the snap actually being mounted on the tab and the tab being welded with the ABS glue to the armor piece -- this would be well-nigh impossible to remove.

 

-Chris

They look so professionally made, haha.

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  • 2 weeks later...

 

There is also alot of other stuff on there that may be of use to people. I actually substituted ABS tabs for polyproplene webbing as it is flexible and follows the shape of your armour better and used E6000 as it is far more forgiving if you make a mistake but just as solid when set- I know some people who have had a problem with the weld glues melting the armor where the back of the snap is so you should be careful.

Edited by 89Batman
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