Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Hi Team,

 

Please find below my request to be approved to Centurion for my ANH Stunt kit from WTF.

 

Name: Chris

TK ID: TK 70384

Forum Name: Slouch

Garrison: Knightfall Garrison (Melbourne, Australia)

Armor: WTF

Helmet: WTF

S Trim: WTF

Blaster: Bounty Hunter Armory 

Height: 186cm

Weight: 88Kg

Boots: TK Boots

Belt: Made Myself

Rubber Hand Plates: Kris Hase (KFG Member) made

Gloves: Rubber chemical

Neck Seal: Darman's Props (Etsy)

Holster: Made Myself

Lenses: WTF

Helmet Fans: Imperial Fans

Electronics: N/A

Dropbox Backs: WTF

Decals: Dave M - Trooperbay

Undersuit: Kmart/Amazon

 

Social Media Consent : Yes

 

https://www.501st.com/forum/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=25803

 

EIB Approval Thread: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/56214-tk-70384-requesting-anh-stunt-eib-status-wtf-1084/#comment-791557

 

Recommended changes addressed for centurion:

 

  1. Helmet positioning: Hard hat liner was removed from my helmet for the photos. It was only a few mm thick for comfort, but I do have a long neck, hence why it sits high.

 

  1. Tube Stripes: These are pencil width from the cheek. I’m not sure if the WTF kit has a softer angle or if there was some glare, but it’s definitely within 5-6mm of the cheeks and were placed with a pencil as a guide.

 

  1. Forearms scaled to wearer: I cut and shut both forearms. They fit and look much better now. I can only just get my hands through the openings, but it was worth it for the cleaner look.

 

  1. AB Plate painting: AB Plates have both been replaced and repainted. No return edge on small plate.

 

  1. Belt Positioning: Raised slightly to sit correctly

 

  1. TD Dimensions: Thermal Detonator has been cut down and repainted to meet specifications.

 

  1. No gap between the abdomen and kidney armour: Plates now touch.

 

  1. Drop Box Height: Elastic slightly stretched to give slight gap from bottom of belt

 

  1. Latex Hand Guards: A local member (Kris Hase – Knightfall Garrison) kindly manufactured and painted a set for me. These have been glued onto the correct black rubber gloves.

 

  1. Blaster touch up: Repainted and better images taken to reduce glare.

 

 

Full Body: 

 

Front - Arms flat by side, no weapon
lxE7FnV.jpg

 

Back – Arms flat by side (Shoulder bridges have been replaced and rear tabs removed)

0vR5rwD.jpg

 

LHS 

5mLyJGM.jpg

 

RHS

2tEsBTR.jpg

 

LHS Arm raised

6edfnIT.jpg

 

RHS Arm raised

QRB07AX.jpg

 

Action Shot

AW453as.jpg

 

Armor Details:

 

Cod & Posterior Plate connections

hJG6pKn.jpg

 

Shoulder Bridges 

gxjcb9U.jpg

 

Thigh Ammo Belt with Bifurcated rivets

axhjW1F.jpg

gClxMOC.jpg

 

Sniper Knee Plate 

lpX2xS4.jpg

9u9GB3H.jpg

 

Wrist Openings

nV2wxqS.jpg

 

Ab plates = Replaced and repainted

PcV4kAZ.jpg

 

Interior Strapping 

V2umsNi.jpg

 

Split Rivet Side Connection

LB85qbg.jpg

 

Han Snap 

hCFxKyi.jpg  

 

Helmet Details:

 

Front

nUYH886.jpg

 

Left

TcM89tV.jpg

 

Right – Please note, I’ve moved the Right Ear as far back as is possible. The previous owner drilled holes in the wrong position and damaged the helmet. The rear line of the lower section of the ear does follow the angle of the rear trap. I’m not 100% happy about this, but have tried and am unable to fix it unfortunately. The left ear is in the correct position and they do look symmetrical from the front and rear, thankfully.

549FeH8.jpg

https://imgur.com/a/6u8GBBF

 

Back

Sl2x6NA.jpg

 

 

Hovi Tips

RcTrdn0.jpg

 

 

S-Trim 

dwZ5fkl.jpg

 

Lenses

g0SAOQT.jpg

 

Accessories:

 

Neck Seal

slKrVCH.jpg

 

TD (Now trimmed down to correct length/proportions)

wpuYfcO.jpg

JeBlc3k.jpeg

vurM6rK.jpg

 

Holster Attachment 

FL5BweT.jpg

 

ABS / Canvas Belt

Fc5xKzW.jpg

 

Boots

Poqtb3T.jpg

 

Rubber Gloves & Latex Handguards

pj34PRg.jpg

 

Blaster Details:

 

Left Side

5i0fqQP.jpg

 

Right Side

dJ0DVnq.jpg

 

D-Ring 

https://imgur.com/a/84BHgyZ

 

If there's any other details/photos required, please let me know. Many thanks, Chris :smiley-sw013:

 

Here's some progress shots from me addressing the fixes from my EIB application

TujrSu3.jpg

AAv8Mwo.jpg

 

 

 

Edited by Slouch
Fixed imgur links
  • Like 1
Posted

Some nice fixes there, just before the DO's come along there are a couple of things you could address to really make your application stand out, please note these are just suggestions and the DO's may or may not require any of them :duim:

 

Belt is sitting on and angle, looks like it was missed in your EIB application, you may need an to straighten

Centurion                                                                                                  EIB

lxE7FnV.thumb.jpg.b4bd1246667c45081f457084b947a4e3.jpgUVAJIWN.thumb.jpg.b7677b9db53e61536155e2eae4a97d8b.jpg

 

Drop box not quite aligned with the end of the plastic belt, it was actually better in your EIB application.

Left side button cover is on an angle.

You may also want to add some tighter strapping or some V tabs behind your posterior to kidney, notice it is sticking out on the side. V

There is also some belt/elastic showing between the cod and thigh on your left side.

Centurion                                                                                                  EIB

6edfnIT.thumb.jpg.178dee523e5feaedee48edc0ed4bfae1.jpgOGbsvq0.thumb.jpeg.58d45cceef582b4341df245cf5be6cb6.jpeg

 

F250E995-F5DE-45F5-ACAB-16803A4EDFC3.png.86946d7eed9975ddf992f890601bc6b6.png

 

With a heat gun or oven you bend strips of ABS plastic into the shape of a V, only glue one side and the other remains free to allow movement when you bend. Just helps stop the butt plate from pushing back from the back plate.

Q6j9pfd.jpg

 

qrjihT5.jpg

 

Although size is not mentioned in the CRL your drop box elastic is a little wide

FL5BweT.jpgsmall.Toqq9WB.jpg.67ecff261a9bc43e302765

 

Although your TD is a better length the gaps are still a little small between your endcaps and control panel, should be @ 1/2" (13mm)

JeBlc3k.thumb.jpeg.3f5804178ce56ba890b6366a4e775399.jpeg

 

Looks like it's the curve of your tube stripes which doesn't follow the cheek giving the uneven appearance, nice gap in the middle but further on the ends. But by the CRL these are: Ideally, the tube stripes are positioned approximately a pencil width from the side of the cheek  not must be ;)

549FeH8.thumb.jpg.070808ca1e3d79d015641b041f2884c8.jpg

 

You could remove the bump int he brow trim

lxE7FnV(1).jpg.dc525fd0e8b7192699b2c8cf6c1aadff.jpg

 

Could be lighting or a different angle but some 3D print lines can be seen, Hengstler stand out the most

 

5i0fqQP.thumb.jpg.66582b656faeb83c2ca4e3acdb131136.jpg

dJ0DVnq.thumb.jpg.d463340055ea13def2543cd61844e06b.jpg

 

Once again these are just suggestions, the DO's may or may not require any of these changes.

 

Good luck with approval :duim:

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted
2 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:

Some nice fixes there, just before the DO's come along there are a couple of things you could address to really make your application stand out, please note these are just suggestions and the DO's may or may not require any of them :duim:

 

Belt is sitting on and angle, looks like it was missed in your EIB application, you may need an to straighten

Centurion                                                                                                  EIB

 

 

Drop box not quite aligned with the end of the plastic belt, it was actually better in your EIB application.

Left side button cover is on an angle.

You may also want to add some tighter strapping or some V tabs behind your posterior to kidney, notice it is sticking out on the side. V

There is also some belt/elastic showing between the cod and thigh on your left side.

Centurion                                                                                                  EIB

 

 

 

 

With a heat gun or oven you bend strips of ABS plastic into the shape of a V, only glue one side and the other remains free to allow movement when you bend. Just helps stop the butt plate from pushing back from the back plate.

 

 

 

 

Although size is not mentioned in the CRL your drop box elastic is a little wide

 

 

Although your TD is a better length the gaps are still a little small between your endcaps and control panel, should be @ 1/2" (13mm)

 

 

Looks like it's the curve of your tube stripes which doesn't follow the cheek giving the uneven appearance, nice gap in the middle but further on the ends. But by the CRL these are: Ideally, the tube stripes are positioned approximately a pencil width from the side of the cheek  not must be ;)

 

 

You could remove the bump int he brow trim

 

 

Could be lighting or a different angle but some 3D print lines can be seen, Hengstler stand out the most

 

 

 

 

Once again these are just suggestions, the DO's may or may not require any of these changes.

 

Good luck with approval :duim:

 

 

 

 

Thanks so much, Glen! Always appreciate the feedback.

 

I made the very silly mistake of taking these photos today - a 43 degree (Celsius) day in Melbourne and my beloved photographer (wife) wasn't overly patient, so some of the pics were rushed. I think I edited most of the photobombing pics with my dog in the background, but had fixed a couple of those things in between takes - belt holding my thigh armour had come undone (easy fix) and I fixed the brow lump, but they didn't make the final cut.

 

I have got V-tabs on the butt plate. They did make a big improvement, but not sure I can bring it any further in. It does sit a lot better/pretty close now. I'll adjust the strapping and see if that helps.

 

The elastic on the drop boxes was the closest I could track down. It'd be within a couple of mm at most, so hopefully that's approvable. The drop boxes usually sit at the very edge, but can shuffle along sometimes. I probably have a photo of them sitting better/as they usually do. That was probably just me rushing/sweating, but the EIB pics confirm they should comply. 

 

The tube stripes were a pain when I applied them (all as one strip). My kit is an older WTF kit and is the 'lumpy-bumpy' variant, so I don't think that helped my case with the spacings, as it was basically impossible to conform at all points. 

 

I'll see if I can push those end caps down on the TD a few more mm. They are SO TIGHT - I hope I don't wreck them! Otherwise I'll see if i can slice a few mm off the centre plate and touch up the paint.

 

I'll play around with my belt and get it sitting straighter. I will reposition that button cover. There is a good chance the whole belt was tilted by my wife when I was getting her to adjust the TD. Might have changed the angle, but I'll see if I can make it better. I do find it difficult to get it flat and square, while still sitting on/touching the AB plate. Not sure if it's the moulding, but that tends to leave a bit of a weird gap either side of the AB plate. Let me see what I can do.

 

I'm pretty sure the lighting is causing those issues on the E-11 as there's no print lines visible in those spots highlighted - possibly brush lines from the weathering I did. The Hengstler Counter has a LOT of layers of paint and there might have been a couple of residual lines/odd layers. I'll give it a bit of a sand and spray. 

 

Thanks again for the feedback - I'll update my pics as I fix a few of these issues and hope for a cooler day for a reshoot!

 

Cheers, Chris

  • Like 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...