Slouch[TK] Posted December 16, 2024 Report Posted December 16, 2024 (edited) Hi Team, Please find below my request to be approved to Centurion for my ANH Stunt kit from WTF. Name: Chris TK ID: TK 70384 Forum Name: Slouch Garrison: Knightfall Garrison (Melbourne, Australia) Armor: WTF Helmet: WTF S Trim: WTF Blaster: Bounty Hunter Armory Height: 186cm Weight: 88Kg Boots: TK Boots Belt: Made Myself Rubber Hand Plates: Kris Hase (KFG Member) made Gloves: Rubber chemical Neck Seal: Darman's Props (Etsy) Holster: Made Myself Lenses: WTF Helmet Fans: Imperial Fans Electronics: N/A Dropbox Backs: WTF Decals: Dave M - Trooperbay Undersuit: Kmart/Amazon Social Media Consent : Yes https://www.501st.com/forum/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=25803 EIB Approval Thread: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/56214-tk-70384-requesting-anh-stunt-eib-status-wtf-1084/#comment-791557 Recommended changes addressed for centurion: Helmet positioning: Hard hat liner was removed from my helmet for the photos. It was only a few mm thick for comfort, but I do have a long neck, hence why it sits high. Tube Stripes: These are pencil width from the cheek. I’m not sure if the WTF kit has a softer angle or if there was some glare, but it’s definitely within 5-6mm of the cheeks and were placed with a pencil as a guide. Forearms scaled to wearer: I cut and shut both forearms. They fit and look much better now. I can only just get my hands through the openings, but it was worth it for the cleaner look. AB Plate painting: AB Plates have both been replaced and repainted. No return edge on small plate. Belt Positioning: Raised slightly to sit correctly TD Dimensions: Thermal Detonator has been cut down and repainted to meet specifications. No gap between the abdomen and kidney armour: Plates now touch. Drop Box Height: Elastic stretched to give slight gap from bottom of belt Latex Hand Guards: A local member (Kris Hase – Knightfall Garrison) kindly manufactured and painted a set for me. These have been glued onto the correct black rubber gloves. Blaster touch up: Repainted and better images taken to reduce glare. Full Body: Front - Arms flat by side, no weapon Back – Arms flat by side (Shoulder bridges have been replaced and rear tabs removed) LHS RHS LHS Arm raised RHS Arm raised Action Shot Armor Details: Cod & Posterior Plate connections Shoulder Bridges Thigh Ammo Belt with Bifurcated rivets Sniper Knee Plate Wrist Openings Ab plates = Replaced and repainted Interior Strapping Split Rivet Side Connection Han Snap Helmet Details: Front Left Right – Please note, I’ve moved the Right Ear as far back as is possible. The previous owner drilled holes in the wrong position and damaged the helmet. The rear line of the lower section of the ear does follow the angle of the rear trap. I’m not 100% happy about this, but have tried and am unable to fix it unfortunately. The left ear is in the correct position and they do look symmetrical from the front and rear, thankfully. https://imgur.com/a/6u8GBBF Back Hovi Tips S-Trim Lenses Accessories: Neck Seal TD (Now trimmed down to correct length/proportions) Holster Attachment ABS / Canvas Belt Boots Rubber Gloves & Latex Handguards Blaster Details: Left Side Right Side D-Ring https://imgur.com/a/84BHgyZ If there's any other details/photos required, please let me know. Many thanks, Chris Here's some progress shots from me addressing the fixes from my EIB application Edited December 29, 2024 by Slouch Updated photos to reflect required changes 1 Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted December 16, 2024 Report Posted December 16, 2024 Some nice fixes there, just before the DO's come along there are a couple of things you could address to really make your application stand out, please note these are just suggestions and the DO's may or may not require any of them Belt is sitting on and angle, looks like it was missed in your EIB application, you may need an to straighten Centurion EIB Drop box not quite aligned with the end of the plastic belt, it was actually better in your EIB application. Left side button cover is on an angle. You may also want to add some tighter strapping or some V tabs behind your posterior to kidney, notice it is sticking out on the side. V There is also some belt/elastic showing between the cod and thigh on your left side. Centurion EIB With a heat gun or oven you bend strips of ABS plastic into the shape of a V, only glue one side and the other remains free to allow movement when you bend. Just helps stop the butt plate from pushing back from the back plate. Although size is not mentioned in the CRL your drop box elastic is a little wide Although your TD is a better length the gaps are still a little small between your endcaps and control panel, should be @ 1/2" (13mm) Looks like it's the curve of your tube stripes which doesn't follow the cheek giving the uneven appearance, nice gap in the middle but further on the ends. But by the CRL these are: Ideally, the tube stripes are positioned approximately a pencil width from the side of the cheek not must be You could remove the bump int he brow trim Could be lighting or a different angle but some 3D print lines can be seen, Hengstler stand out the most Once again these are just suggestions, the DO's may or may not require any of these changes. Good luck with approval 1 Quote
Slouch[TK] Posted December 16, 2024 Author Report Posted December 16, 2024 2 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said: Some nice fixes there, just before the DO's come along there are a couple of things you could address to really make your application stand out, please note these are just suggestions and the DO's may or may not require any of them Belt is sitting on and angle, looks like it was missed in your EIB application, you may need an to straighten Centurion EIB Drop box not quite aligned with the end of the plastic belt, it was actually better in your EIB application. Left side button cover is on an angle. You may also want to add some tighter strapping or some V tabs behind your posterior to kidney, notice it is sticking out on the side. V There is also some belt/elastic showing between the cod and thigh on your left side. Centurion EIB With a heat gun or oven you bend strips of ABS plastic into the shape of a V, only glue one side and the other remains free to allow movement when you bend. Just helps stop the butt plate from pushing back from the back plate. Although size is not mentioned in the CRL your drop box elastic is a little wide Although your TD is a better length the gaps are still a little small between your endcaps and control panel, should be @ 1/2" (13mm) Looks like it's the curve of your tube stripes which doesn't follow the cheek giving the uneven appearance, nice gap in the middle but further on the ends. But by the CRL these are: Ideally, the tube stripes are positioned approximately a pencil width from the side of the cheek not must be You could remove the bump int he brow trim Could be lighting or a different angle but some 3D print lines can be seen, Hengstler stand out the most Once again these are just suggestions, the DO's may or may not require any of these changes. Good luck with approval Thanks so much, Glen! Always appreciate the feedback. I made the very silly mistake of taking these photos today - a 43 degree (Celsius) day in Melbourne and my beloved photographer (wife) wasn't overly patient, so some of the pics were rushed. I think I edited most of the photobombing pics with my dog in the background, but had fixed a couple of those things in between takes - belt holding my thigh armour had come undone (easy fix) and I fixed the brow lump, but they didn't make the final cut. I have got V-tabs on the butt plate. They did make a big improvement, but not sure I can bring it any further in. It does sit a lot better/pretty close now. I'll adjust the strapping and see if that helps. The elastic on the drop boxes was the closest I could track down. It'd be within a couple of mm at most, so hopefully that's approvable. The drop boxes usually sit at the very edge, but can shuffle along sometimes. I probably have a photo of them sitting better/as they usually do. That was probably just me rushing/sweating, but the EIB pics confirm they should comply. The tube stripes were a pain when I applied them (all as one strip). My kit is an older WTF kit and is the 'lumpy-bumpy' variant, so I don't think that helped my case with the spacings, as it was basically impossible to conform at all points. I'll see if I can push those end caps down on the TD a few more mm. They are SO TIGHT - I hope I don't wreck them! Otherwise I'll see if i can slice a few mm off the centre plate and touch up the paint. I'll play around with my belt and get it sitting straighter. I will reposition that button cover. There is a good chance the whole belt was tilted by my wife when I was getting her to adjust the TD. Might have changed the angle, but I'll see if I can make it better. I do find it difficult to get it flat and square, while still sitting on/touching the AB plate. Not sure if it's the moulding, but that tends to leave a bit of a weird gap either side of the AB plate. Let me see what I can do. I'm pretty sure the lighting is causing those issues on the E-11 as there's no print lines visible in those spots highlighted - possibly brush lines from the weathering I did. The Hengstler Counter has a LOT of layers of paint and there might have been a couple of residual lines/odd layers. I'll give it a bit of a sand and spray. Thanks again for the feedback - I'll update my pics as I fix a few of these issues and hope for a cooler day for a reshoot! Cheers, Chris 1 Quote
TKSpartan[Staff] Posted December 16, 2024 Report Posted December 16, 2024 Hi Chris, glad to see your Centurion submission! I'll be with you as soon as possible. 1 Quote
Slouch[TK] Posted December 21, 2024 Author Report Posted December 21, 2024 On 12/17/2024 at 2:27 AM, TKSpartan said: Hi Chris, glad to see your Centurion submission! I'll be with you as soon as possible. Thanks Mario - I know it's a crazy time of year! I've made a couple of changes - fixed the belt so it sits level and flat (looks so much better!) and repositioned the button cover so it's also square. Moved the drop boxes to align with the end of the belt. It touches the bottom of the small Ab plate. Any higher and it really leaves a weird gap either side/doesn't sit well. Flattened my brow - no more lump! Trimmed down the cover plate on the TD to give a few extra mm space to the end caps. Couldn't get the end caps to move, which would have been much faster . All dimensions are spot on now. Strapping adjusted to make the V-tabs work slightly better. Only minor, but they're plates are flush. Also did up the belt supporting the thigh armour to keep it out of sight. Also gave the E-11 a sand in a few places and repainted/weathered. Those spots shown were a result of build up of paint. I've stripped it back and repainted more evenly. I've updated my original post with the new pics. 1 Quote
TKSpartan[Staff] Posted December 23, 2024 Report Posted December 23, 2024 Hi Chris, Glad to read you have been making the fixes and I'm sure you look much better. In order to place that Centurion Badge under your name , I'll need you to make a last effort brother, and that is to update the full body photos , (not only for the records but to avoid confusion on those new builders who come to check the approved submissions). Once you're ready to take the photos, please take care on checking twice the following: 1- Check if you need to shorten the shoulder straps so they can close the gap with the Shoulder bridges. Note the black inner clothes sticking out of the right shoulder bell. CRL L3: There should be a minimal gap between the shoulder armor and the chest/back plates. You could use a piece of Velcro behind the belt to allow it remain in place almost touching the Buttons plate. CRL L3 : The top of the ABS ammo belt should sit at or just above the bottom of the central and vertical abdomen button panels. A common solution for this is to add a dab of E6000 in between the Drop box strap and the ABR Belt the fix it. And you may want to check if you need to longer a bit the strap of the right side drop box CRL L3: Drop boxes are vertically aligned with the end of the ammo belt with minimal gap between belt and box. Thank you for your effort and patience . 1 Quote
Slouch[TK] Posted December 23, 2024 Author Report Posted December 23, 2024 Thanks so much, Mario! I've put some safety pins in the elastic on the drop boxes from the inside to secure them in position. Can't believe I hadn't done that sooner. It makes it sit perfectly each time. I've stretched the elastic, so it does sit that little bit lower, but didn't get those pics on the last reshoot. My wife is going to kill you (me) 😅 I'll update those photos 👍🏽 I've fixed the positioning of the belt, but need to get more photos. The only problem I'm going to have is my shoulder bells. I'll make sure the undersuit is tucked in cleanly, but that's probably as close as I can get them sitting to the chest plate with my build. I actually had new shoulder bells made and they sit a LOT closer than before. I've also doubled over the white elastic bridges to prevent them from showing, but I've got broad shoulders, so it's a challenge. I'll see if I can get some more photos today. Thanks again. 2 Quote
dblcross[TK] Posted December 24, 2024 Report Posted December 24, 2024 4 hours ago, Slouch said: I've put some safety pins in the elastic on the drop boxes from the inside to secure them in position. Impressive! 1 Quote
Slouch[TK] Posted December 29, 2024 Author Report Posted December 29, 2024 On 12/24/2024 at 3:11 AM, TKSpartan said: Hi Chris, Glad to read you have been making the fixes and I'm sure you look much better. In order to place that Centurion Badge under your name , I'll need you to make a last effort brother, and that is to update the full body photos , (not only for the records but to avoid confusion on those new builders who come to check the approved submissions). Once you're ready to take the photos, please take care on checking twice the following: 1- Check if you need to shorten the shoulder straps so they can close the gap with the Shoulder bridges. Note the black inner clothes sticking out of the right shoulder bell. CRL L3: There should be a minimal gap between the shoulder armor and the chest/back plates. You could use a piece of Velcro behind the belt to allow it remain in place almost touching the Buttons plate. CRL L3 : The top of the ABS ammo belt should sit at or just above the bottom of the central and vertical abdomen button panels. A common solution for this is to add a dab of E6000 in between the Drop box strap and the ABR Belt the fix it. And you may want to check if you need to longer a bit the strap of the right side drop box CRL L3: Drop boxes are vertically aligned with the end of the ammo belt with minimal gap between belt and box. Thank you for your effort and patience . Hey again, Mario - I've updated the pics in my application. Belt position has been corrected and drop box straps have been affixed to align with the end of the belt. It all sits much squarer now. Shoulder bell strapping was adjusted to get them that bit closer to the chest plate, but as discussed, my build prevents them sitting any closer. Also ensured the undersuit was tucked in a little more carefully. If there's anything else you need, please let me know. I've done my best to ensure they all comply and did my best to make sure everything was sitting correctly for the photos. Cheers! 1 Quote
Chemi[Staff] Posted December 29, 2024 Report Posted December 29, 2024 Great!!! Mario will be with you soon. Keep in mind that these days are "complicated" .... Thanks for your patience!!! 1 Quote
Slouch[TK] Posted December 29, 2024 Author Report Posted December 29, 2024 6 hours ago, Chemi said: Great!!! Mario will be with you soon. Keep in mind that these days are "complicated" .... Thanks for your patience!!! True. I have no idea what day it is! 1 Quote
Chemi[Staff] Posted December 29, 2024 Report Posted December 29, 2024 hace 47 minutos, Slouch dijo: True. I have no idea what day it is! 1 Quote
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