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Posted

Hello Fellow Builders,

 

I'm working on a TFA Denuo Novo armor and have a few questions:

 

1.)  Acetone-  Is this the same whether I get this from Home Depot or from CVS in the nail polish section?  The CVS version say  "100% Acetone" so I don't know if there a different with using either one.

2.)  Slurry paste-   What is the ratio of abs scrap pieces to acetone mixture?  What is the mixture texture quality supposed to look like?......toothpaste.?....thick gravy type?.....stiff putty? 

3.)  How long does it take for scrap abs and acetone to sit before it's ready?  How long is the slurry good for after it's ready or does it need to be used right away as soon as the abs is melted?

4.)  Am I supposed to fill in the seams in the yellow areas of the pictures attached to cover them up entirely or to use just enough to close out the gap when i glued the pieces together?  I know there is not supposed to be any seams visible on the yolk/harness chest and back pieces assembly and the abdomen piece.  Not sure about the other pieces.

5.)  For those ammo boxes, do the seams need to be filled in or is it OK to have a slight gap?

 

Thanks for your help!

 

FOTK Forearms.jpg

FOTK Biceps.jpg

FOTK Shin.jpg

FOTK thighs.jpg

FOTK ankle.jpg

FOTK Abdomin.jpg

FOTK shoulder bells.jpg

fotk yolk.jpg

FOTK Ammo Boxes.jpg

Posted

1.)  Acetone-  Is this the same whether I get this from Home Depot or from CVS in the nail polish section?  The CVS version say  "100% Acetone" so I don't know if there a different with using either one. No it is not, I only found one source locally that would melt the plastic scraps, trial and error I'm afraid 

2.)  Slurry paste-   What is the ratio of abs scrap pieces to acetone mixture?  What is the mixture texture quality supposed to look like?......toothpaste.?....thick gravy type?.....stiff putty? Add acetone as needed 

 

3.)  How long does it take for scrap abs and acetone to sit before it's ready?  How long is the slurry good for after it's ready or does it need to be used right away as soon as the abs is melted? Usually from a few hours, I normally leave overnight, if you keep in an airtight jar it can last a long time.

4.)  Am I supposed to fill in the seams in the yellow areas of the pictures attached to cover them up entirely or to use just enough to close out the gap when i glued the pieces together?  I know there is not supposed to be any seams visible on the yolk/harness chest and back pieces assembly and the abdomen piece.  Not sure about the other pieces. I would advise have a look through the CRL https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_-_First_Order and gallery https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/category/20-fotk-reference/ Sides of abdomen and tops of yoke/chest need filling. Justin has a nice build to follow and uses ABS paste 

These need filling (use thin coats of ABS paste to reduce air bubbles when drying)

FOTK Abdomin.jpg

 

fotk yolk.jpg

 

5.)  For those ammo boxes, do the seams need to be filled in or is it OK to have a slight gap? OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):

  • The seams between the abdominal armor and the 7 boxes should not be filled.
  • Like 1
Posted

From memory most of those seams you highlighted should remain, but do check the CRL and the reference images.  The key ones that need to be filled are the 2 on each side of the abdomen armour and the two shoulders. I don't believe any more than that needs to be filled.

 

I would also suggest you smooth out some of the trim lines to make a nice clean line as in a few places the cuts are a bit uneven.

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

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