Zerodameaon Posted August 20 Report Posted August 20 (edited) So this project started off as a Halloween build and has spiraled out since I started it about a week ago. I was just going to use rub-n-buff for the gold but now I am doing gold leaf, I was going to wear a red kilt and now I am going to either order or make a proper kama. Right now I have the helmet printed and assembled but I have been fighting a de lamination of the dome along the brow. I tried to use thin layers of UV resin and it is having having some reactions with the Bondo spot putty and its not curing to the spots with the resin. I have drilled it out and am working on filling it in, next time I will just reprint the part. For right now the mask is done but I may have to redo it to get the texture better. Hopefully I can have the helmet done in a few days but for now the armor is printing. Edited August 20 by Zerodameaon 2 Quote
Zerodameaon Posted August 23 Author Report Posted August 23 Well, I got the paint or spot putty to stop reacting by just cutting that spot out and building it up with plastic epoxy and superglue. Now it is time to primer and sand the base white primer then do the nice white paint. Also scaling the armor is fun, I am a bit short and my thighs are pretty big so I can't scale everything uniformly. I am basically doing prints of slices of the armor at critical spots with zero infill and one outer wall. Quote
themaninthesuitcase[Admin] Posted August 25 Report Posted August 25 Face plate looks great. Take care with the armour to make sure it remains in proportion to your self and also the reference. On some of the files the proportions aren't quite right in places so keep an eye out for that. 1 Quote
Zerodameaon Posted August 26 Author Report Posted August 26 Scaling is going to be the most tricky part, I got the front and back scaling right on a piece and forgot about the height so it was scaled for someone like 6'6". Also I think I need to reprint the helmet, this layer separation is fighting me. I will feel like I have whatever is offgassing solved and then I will come back a day later and the paint will have softened. I drilled out the entire spot but I think trying to layer spot putty or really anything in there may be a issue. I think I am to the point of reprinting and if I have that issue again I will just toss the parts that are bad. Quote
Zerodameaon Posted August 30 Author Report Posted August 30 I cut that entire front section out and just filled it with JB Weld Plastic epoxy, needs a little more smoothing but whatever was eating the paint is now gone. 1 Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted August 30 Report Posted August 30 Spot (blade) putty is great for small scratches but can causes issues once paint is applied, too thick and it doesn't fully cure and the thinners can eat into it, I use automotive filler for bigger areas. Quote
Zerodameaon Posted September 2 Author Report Posted September 2 On 8/30/2024 at 3:51 PM, gmrhodes13 said: Spot (blade) putty is great for small scratches but can causes issues once paint is applied, too thick and it doesn't fully cure and the thinners can eat into it, I use automotive filler for bigger areas. I have seen some on youtube just slather this stuff on thick, I am wondering if they just flew through the build so fast it wasn't an issue until later. Also scaling is likely going to be the hardest part of all of this. Quote
themaninthesuitcase[Admin] Posted September 2 Report Posted September 2 Check out this video by one of our members on how to prep 3d Prints 1 Quote
Zerodameaon Posted October 8 Author Report Posted October 8 Well this won't be ready by Halloween, but hopefully I can at least get the top bits done to the point of painted white with the helmet completed. I had a lot of issues printing this stuff that set me back, the tall thin prints even with G10 were breaking free. I finally decided to try Vision Miner's nanopolymer stuff and it really holds, I have broken a few bottom layers off so far. Quote
Zerodameaon Posted October 26 Author Report Posted October 26 I think I am going to have to buy commerical thigh and calf armor. These prints are too thick. I guess I can print them hollow and cut out the backs but my calves and thighs are just too big. Quote
Zerodameaon Posted October 27 Author Report Posted October 27 https://www.do3d.com/product-page/captain-enoch-from-ahsoka-full-body-armors-helmet-3d-printable-model-ec21 Has anyone tried this armor? Quote
Sly11[Admin] Posted October 27 Report Posted October 27 2 hours ago, Zerodameaon said: https://www.do3d.com/product-page/captain-enoch-from-ahsoka-full-body-armors-helmet-3d-printable-model-ec21 Has anyone tried this armor? Do3D are synonymous for their lack of accuracy in the past, unfortunately. Quote
Zerodameaon Posted October 28 Author Report Posted October 28 21 hours ago, Sly11 said: Do3D are synonymous for their lack of accuracy in the past, unfortunately. I see that in the chest plate. Hmm Maybe I will mix and match with the GA armor. My main issue is the thickness of the GA leg and arm armor, the bicep pieces are like 7.25mm thick when scaled for me. How thick are the commercial plastic pieces usually? I would be afraid to dremel in the cracks though. Is this picture a render? I feel a little less bad about the gold smudges on the stuff I have been working on since you can see some what look like fingerprints on the bicep armor. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.