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Posted

Looks good. I heard you can use the abs polish to clean up any mistakes after it has dried.

I'll be doing the same to mine soon as well.

Posted

Yeah I heard that too. The hardest thing was getting the silicone thickness below the frown right. Mine could have been better, but I will let it stay this way. If Ichange my mind Ill try the polish.

 

Are you gonna do the back seamline too?

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Are you referring to the little seam up to the eye? If so, then I don't think I will. I'm going to try my hand at the main seam this weekend. I hope mine comes out looking as good as yours did. :D

Posted
Yeah I heard that too. The hardest thing was getting the silicone thickness below the frown right. Mine could have been better, but I will let it stay this way. If Ichange my mind Ill try the polish.

 

Are you gonna do the back seamline too?

 

A good little trick that a plumber showed me while working with silicone

(not on an MRCE that sprang a leak by the way :D ) was to run a tiny amout

along the seam / join that you want to seal, then dampen a finger with 'White Spirit'

ang run it over the top of it.This smooths it out and also makes the line consistent

throughout. :)

I've used 'White Spirit' on ABS with no problems, but I would always recommend that

you try it on a blind spot / inside piece to test for possible reactions

 

:)

Posted

Cool, havent heard of white spirit. After applying I used soap on my finger to get it smooth.

 

No Iowatrooper, I ment the seam you see from behind. Good luck!

 

 

Cheers

Posted

Tip from a glazier......

 

Be aware that if you are using a sealent such as bathroom or glazing silicone , that paint will not stick to it if you are repainting the lid.

Flexable decorators caulk would be the better option , as it's paintable.

To smooth out either silicone and caulk I always find that just licking my finger and smoothing always works well.

 

A

Posted

I use silicone sealant regularly and the best way to get a neat finish is to apply the silicone to the desired area, then spray a fine mist of soapy water over the silicone before you touch it. This will guarantee that the silicone will only stick to where you have applied it and not anywhere else. Rub smooth with a wet finger but be warned, silicone can be toxic so sticking your fingers in your mouth is not always the best idea.

Posted

Yeah I heard that too. I sure hope so. I don't want to screw it all up and not be able to fix it . I also heard that you can use white caulking and then paint it with glossy white testors model paint so it's super shiney and crap doesn't stick to it. :-)

  • 2 months later...
Posted

I'm not at all happy with the silicon I used on mine. I've put several coats on already, and the only way to get it flush with the top is to have extra over the top. I can't get it to smooth out, and since it's rubbery it balls up and flakes off when I try to correct it. I think I'm going to strip it all out tonight and give it another go before using model gap filler.

Posted

Do you have any pics of what it looks like now? Mine turned out pretty well. I ended up using silicone caulk, not shiney like regular silicone, but just as flexible. I put it on and rubbed off the excess after it dried with my thumb. Then painted with testors white. Not perfect, but got the job done. :)

fCAxoEq.jpg

Posted

I am, however, pleased with how the screws came out. The crack looks better now, but I'm still not happy. I may wind up puttying it tomorrow.

Posted

I've heard that using silicone caulking without painting over it attracts dirt like a magnet. Can anyone confirm or deny this?

Posted

Hey guys what brand silicone should i use? is there a certain type i should get? the flexible kind? How about the flexible caulk?

Posted

After several attempts at caulking, I'll be removing it (again) and using model putty to fill it.

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