threesheds Posted May 15 Report Posted May 15 Here's some pics of my E11 blaster prints. Any comments welcome please! If there's anything not right, I'd rather know now than after I've started gluing them all together! 3 Quote
TKSpartan[Staff] Posted May 15 Report Posted May 15 Looking great John. Bellow a reference for you to check the scope and Hengstler counter correct position and other details for your build. Good luck and looking forward for your advances. Perhaps some info here can be useful for you. 1 Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted May 15 Report Posted May 15 Very nice, looking forward to seeing the progress 1 Quote
threesheds Posted May 20 Author Report Posted May 20 T bars glued on and folding stock assembled and positioned ready for glueing. I've glued the T-bars on, pics below: I've also assembled the folding stock and positioned it ready for glueing. By my reckoning, the front of the folding stock should just overhang the front the of the muzzle by a few millimetres, as I've positioned it here. Does this all look good for glueing? 2 Quote
threesheds Posted May 22 Author Report Posted May 22 Rail in place, scope screwed to rail and checking positioning for hengstler bracket: Am I all good here? Or should I remove the screws I've used at the back end of the rail and the scope and just glue them instead? Quote
TKSpartan[Staff] Posted May 22 Report Posted May 22 6 hours ago, threesheds said: Am I all good here? Or should I remove the screws I've used at the back end of the rail and the scope and just glue them instead? A screw is ok, but personally, I would recommend to use a countersunk one. Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted May 22 Report Posted May 22 It does look a little on the large side. A great thread full of references Quote
threesheds Posted June 5 Author Report Posted June 5 I've finished building my E11 blaster rifle - painted and weathered (to the best of my ability at least!) pics for inspection: does this all look ok for trooping? 2 Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted June 5 Report Posted June 5 Nice work. A couple of things if you look at aiming for higher levels, the T-tracks and grips were gloss black on-screen blasters so would not have any weathering, also there are a few places you can see some print lines: L2 Expert Infantry 3-D printed blasters can not contain visible print lines, and must be sanded smooth for a more realistic appearance. 1 Quote
threesheds Posted June 6 Author Report Posted June 6 I've made a start on my lid build. Following along with RWA Ross's very helpful youtube videos. Got the eyes and frown grilles trimmed out, brow band in place, and positioning the front and back pieces with magnets in preparation to drill and rivet the sides. 1 Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted June 6 Report Posted June 6 A few build threads I find useful, especially on trimming the ears Some references of screen helmets, many had gaps Compare your middle teeth, they look a little curved 1 Quote
threesheds Posted June 20 Author Report Posted June 20 Thanks for the really helpful links / pics. I've now got the lid assembled with the ears and neck rubber on. I've being doing a bit of back-and-forwarding with my armourer on the UK Garrison forum to get my E11 right (replaced 3d printed scope rail with metal one) so progress has been slow. 2 Quote
threesheds Posted June 24 Author Report Posted June 24 did some more work on my lid this weekend. mic tips assembled and installed, visor lens installed, frown grille installed, grey panels painted, black vocoder section painted, ear screws painted. Quote
TKSpartan[Staff] Posted June 24 Report Posted June 24 Nice job ! You may want to trim a little more the teeth paint in some areas according to the references. 1 Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted June 24 Report Posted June 24 You can also add some white to the mic tip rims and insides L2 and above Correct Aerators/Hovi-MIX tips are present. Screens used shall be of a wide type mesh, with the rim of the mic and the inside white or painted white. 1 Quote
threesheds Posted July 1 Author Report Posted July 1 My armourer at the UK Garrison (TK29772) has just signed off on my lid! Vent lines painted on (stencils supplied with my kit by Ross @ RWA) and black keylines round tears / traps / ears freehanded. Very happy with how they turned out. Now I can press on with the rest of my build. Going to do the shoulder bells / arm sections next 🙂 1 Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted July 1 Report Posted July 1 Nice clean build, you have to be happy with that 1 Quote
threesheds Posted July 25 Author Report Posted July 25 slow progress due to work and family commitments, but both arms glued up and the wrist plates glued onto the gloves. I've got the practical popper kit from Ross at RWA so I'm now knee deep in making popper tabs to glue on. 2 Quote
threesheds Posted September 4 Author Report Posted September 4 Photo dump of work progress (sorry for the long delay, I've been keeping more up to date over on the UK Garrison website) arms and torso poppered up and assembled, glove plates glued on: torso button plates painted and glued on: belt done and ready for holster: (ignore the arcane reading material!!! 😄 ) thermal detonator assembled: thighs and shins front strips on, sized ready for rear strips and velcro strips; right knee ammo pack trimmed and ready to glue, left sniper knee trimmed and ready to glue: Quote
TKSpartan[Staff] Posted September 4 Report Posted September 4 Outstanding job John, If I may, regarding your TD , you may want to move down a little more the control panel . The ribbed area should face toward the rear, with the O ring on or near the top. CRL for Basic: The white control panel raised ribbed pad faces the rear, with the controls/round washer style detail closest to the right end cap. Reference images 1 Quote
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