TK ANH Stunt by CloseTheBlastDoor

[CloseTheBlastDoor[TK]]

Thanks, Brian!

 

It did turn out that I did exactly what you said. X-acto plus careful lifting off of the strip. I was able to salvage the front strip, too. It was getting the excess E-6000 off that was a bit of a swear-fest!

 

Used a popsicle stick for most of my work:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited April 6 by CloseTheBlastDoor

[CloseTheBlastDoor[TK]]

4 hours ago, ukswrath said:

 Looks like you're in good hands

Thanks! Indeed, you all are so awesome!

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

You can also dampen a cloth and rub that against the glue, comes off quite well.

 

Looking good

[CloseTheBlastDoor[TK]]

With the thighs as done as they can be for the moment, I thought I’d start looking into straps/snaps at least to understand what’s coming up, before I start on the torso and belt parts. I’ve found this reference:

 

https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/43292-anovos-strap-replacement/#comment-580593

I’d really like to make a complete set of straps/snaps all in one go (or two). Is there a guide somewhere that spells this all out? Like “make four strips of black elastic (or nylon)  2” wide and 4” long, with two snaps at each end” sorta stuff?

 

Also, I’ve seen others just glue the straps to the ABS in certain places, particularly to join the arm sections. Is that advisable? These look like single-snap points otherwise. Thanks!
 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

I prefer using snaps, it's easy to swap them out if any elastic stretches over time, also easy to swap out if you need to shorten or lengthen the elastic.

 

I found using nylon was the easiest for snaps as the nylon conforms to the armor and does not need recessing, unlike snap plates that take a little more work.

 

Here's a full set I made for another members build

 

 

 

Most elastic I shorten the position of snaps by 5 mm, gives a little extra pull when wearing. I also have some snaps added to a strip of elastic in a few places so I can trial the length and change position to work out the best length.

 

I also like to double snap, not everyone does but I found it saved me at a troop once when my shoulder straps snap failed and I had the spare one

 

These may be of help

Rivet Setting 101 by justjoseph63 (Print PDF)

Snap Setting 101 by justjoseph63 (Print PDF)

Snap Placement

Snap Setting Hardware Solutions by TheRascalKing

E6000 and Snaps Discussion by Harbinger, Snap Options by ukswrath

Snaps with Rivet Heads by TheSwede

[CloseTheBlastDoor[TK]]

Thanks for responding, Glen, especially on a Sunday!

I probably spent the last 90 minutes reviewing what you said, and the links you provided, which then led me to other links of interest. Lots of info!

To clarify things a bit, this is my understanding and what my approach will be, based on what I've learned:

 

• Double snaps everywhere, even on limbs. I will have to order more snaps!
• Nylon is used on the armor side, elastic for connections
• Nylon looks like it's 1" wide and 2" long. I've seen people use ABS instead, or sandwiched ABS inside nylon. Seems like if the armor is thick enough, and I'm using authentic E-6000 glue, I should be good to go with just nylon
• Elastic is 2" wide, and its length will depend on what sections are being mated. Using discretion, place female snaps 5mm shorter than where they should be when the elastic is relaxed
• Double over ends of elastic so snaps go through more material = strength
• Make a jig with two holes in it to ensure that snap spacing is the same everywhere. Burn holes with soldering iron using this jig. Also, using the iron, seal the edges of the nylon and elastic so fraying is prevented

Sound OK?

Is there any strapping that goes between the thighs and shins to maintain that gap? Otherwise it seems like the shins could droop quite a bit.

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

• Double snaps everywhere, even on limbs. I will have to order more snaps! I do just to be safe but others are fine with only one snap, my main area I've had snaps fail was shoulders and having the spare meant I could keep trooping
• Nylon is used on the armor side, elastic for connections Correct, in some areas double over the elastic for strength, shoulder strap chest-backplate, also abdomen-kidney
• Nylon looks like it's 1" wide and 2" long. I've seen people use ABS instead, or sandwiched ABS inside nylon. Seems like if the armor is thick enough, and I'm using authentic E-6000 glue, I should be good to go with just nylon. I just find nylon conforms to the armor better and you don't need to recess the snap but you do with plastic snap plates, but either way works fine. I do have small pieces of ABS strips I use on both sides of the nylon to clamp down so it stays flat when drying.
• 
• Elastic is 2" wide, and its length will depend on what sections are being mated. Using discretion, place female snaps 5mm shorter than where they should be when the elastic is relaxed Elastic sizing info here From the Supply List:

• -.  Elastic-  1 inch wide black for shoulder bells, etc. (4 ft.)  2 inch wide white for ab/back plate shoulder connection (1 ft.), 1 inch wide white for drop boxes, (1 ft.) 1/4 inch wide white** (1 ft.) for shoulder straps.

  -.  Nylon strapping-  1 inch wide black, at least 6 to 8 ft. long.  2 inch wide black (48 inches) for high tension areas if you are using the double snap method. (NP)

• Double over ends of elastic so snaps go through more material = strength. Some areas you can but depends on your snaps, some have shorter posts and you can't double over the material
• Make a jig with two holes in it to ensure that snap spacing is the same everywhere. Burn holes with soldering iron using this jig. Also, using the iron, seal the edges of the nylon and elastic so fraying is prevented. Just makes life a little easier using a jig, in case you make any too short or long you can use in other places.

Sound OK?

Is there any strapping that goes between the thighs and shins to maintain that gap? Otherwise it seems like the shins could droop quite a bit. Not between the thighs and shins, the shins sit on top of the boot, thighs are held up with belt/harness. Some add a loop of elastic or velcro in the top front loop of the boot which connects to the inside of the shin to stop them coming upwards or rotating. I have mine on the front, some add them to the back

 

I think that's everything  

[dblcross[TK]]

 One place that I found useful was gluing 2" nylon directly to my biceps and forearms. It keeps the spacing at your elbows constant and wont stretch like elastic. And don't forget to burn the ends of the nylon you cut! A 2 inch piece will turn into a 10 foot string!

You can see it here without my undersuit on.

Edited April 1 by dblcross

[CloseTheBlastDoor[TK]]

3 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:

I think that's everything  

Thanks, Glen, it certainly feels so!   I am now officially motivated (had a bad motivator before ).

[CloseTheBlastDoor[TK]]

2 hours ago, dblcross said:

 One place that I found useful was gluing 2" nylon directly to my biceps and forearms. It keeps the spacing at your elbows constant and wont stretch like elastic. And don't forget to burn the ends of the nylon you cut! A 2 inch piece will turn into a 10 foot string!

You can see it here without my undersuit on.

Good idea on nylon instead of elastic! How do you feel about snaps instead of gluing directly, though?

[dblcross[TK]]

4 hours ago, CloseTheBlastDoor said:

How do you feel about snaps instead of gluing directly, though?

Personally, I hate snaps, but they are necessary in most of the suit. This was one place I felt I could get away with it.

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

16 hours ago, CloseTheBlastDoor said:

Good idea on nylon instead of elastic! How do you feel about snaps instead of gluing directly, though?

You may want to try before you decide, having some give in some areas is a good idea, especially ones that move, keeping armor in particular lengths apart may cause armor bites once you move.

[Tilheyra[IPM]]

I'll second Glen's recommendation of elastic to allow for some movement.

 

In reference to the discussion a few posts up, I also recommend at least having the forearms be able to separate from the rest of the arm armor. Even though I only have 5 troops under my belt, being able to remove my forearm armor has come in handy a number of times. This is usually when I've had to eat but didn't want to take off all my armor. It's surprising how much mobility just taking off the forearm armor will provide you!

[CloseTheBlastDoor[TK]]

Thanks to both of you. Sounds like I will use snaps, and then I can still have the choice of either nylon or elastic.

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Something else to consider. When you see a fellow trooper making cool poses, or even sitting, they're usually using elastic. Nylon has very little give and will tend to pop snaps, leaving armor sections sagging.  

 

Speaking of snaps, some of my armor uses glue secured, some use snaps, some use a combination. Once you troop in your armor for more than an hour you quickly figure out what works and what doesn't. 

[Daetrin[Admin]]

FWIW, In the old days it was 100% elastic, everywhere, all the time.

 

You can always double it up to make it less stretchy, but there are only a few places where nylon wins out.

[CloseTheBlastDoor[TK]]

Thanks guys!
 

[CloseTheBlastDoor[TK]]

I haven’t quite set up to get the snap set done, as I need to order more of the line 24 snaps, and a few other things.

 

In the meantime, I found the Billgrams. What a gold mine! They are super useful! They were nicely gathered here:

 

 

 

 

I decided to trim out a bit more of the armor, namely the shoulder straps, chest plate and back plate. For rough cutting I found it most useful to use a bandsaw to get an initial trim on pieces with a flat surface, and lexan shears for the others. Then for either, a closer trim with Dremel+drum sanding head, followed by 220 grit sandpaper.

 

Shoulder straps:
 

 

Button plate, untrimmed with Billgram measurements marked:

 

Trimmed:

 

Chest and back plates have a generous return edge on the bottom, while next to nothing on the other edges. On these other edges I left the natural rounding intact, but there’s not much behind it, if that makes sense. I did this by not applying the Dremel perpendicular to the edge, but parallel to the forward-facing plane of my body.

 

Chest:

 

Back:

 

Hoping for feedback, and advice on to what radius I should form the shoulder straps. Thanks!
 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Coming a long nicely, you can trim off half the larger tab on the rear (if you wish). Elastic loop is added on the rear to help keep strap down

 

          

 

NOTE:  As seen in the photos below, there are no large tabs on the rear of the shoulder bridges.  This is not specifically mentioned in the CRL, but removing them is highly recommended if possible.

 

                               

 

As for radius of the straps, it changes person to person, give it a rough curve and check it lays flat on the backplate when worn (and glued on the front)

 

Most armor will allow 1 larger tab and 4 1/2 to 5 smaller tabs glued to the chest

 

 

[CloseTheBlastDoor[TK]]

Ooh, good note on the larger tab on the back! I'm not too big, so I can probably get away with removing it entirely. Will check fit first, of course. Thank you, as always!

 

One other thing: I notice that the chest plate's shoulders don't quite align (left shoulder side is higher), so I didn't trim that area yet. Should I trim to the thin dotted line so the sides match up? 

 

Or should I trim to a line that follows across the top, so the straps follow more straight over the shoulders?

a

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

I would match angle cuts (first option), should straps normally follow the angle of the tops

 

You can setup both chest and back plate against a box, about your width, tape or clamp in place and then you can test what curve you will need of the shoulder straps and if they need any twist.

 

[CloseTheBlastDoor[TK]]

Good advice!

[CloseTheBlastDoor[TK]]

Still a bit hung up on the shoulders. I haven't trimmed anything there off the chest plate yet, because there doesn't appear to be much strap overlap:

 

I can only overlap the one large tab and three small ones at most, it seems, and I have yet to trim. I will have to trim some, since there is some lumpiness from forming. I traced the bump-out in the chest plate in China marker just to show how close to the front I already am.

 

Also, I am wondering if I need to trim the sides in the photo to the dotted lines so they taper to the strap width more, which is what I think I see in some of other folks' photos. I am hoping not .

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

9 hours ago, CloseTheBlastDoor said:

Still a bit hung up on the shoulders. I haven't trimmed anything there off the chest plate yet, because there doesn't appear to be much strap overlap:

 

I can only overlap the one large tab and three small ones at most, it seems, and I have yet to trim. I will have to trim some, since there is some lumpiness from forming. I traced the bump-out in the chest plate in China marker just to show how close to the front I already am.

 

Also, I am wondering if I need to trim the sides in the photo to the dotted lines so they taper to the strap width more, which is what I think I see in some of other folks' photos. I am hoping not .

 

As mentioned before some armor makes won't allow the full amount of ridges on the plate due to the chest raised areas. You should not be penalized for having what you have in that image

 

That is quite a large area on both sides, some EIB WTF.

 

You can see in this image (even though it's from the back) the armor has been trimmed to match the shoulder straps

 

 

And here

 

This one appears to have trimmed the inner neck area as there is still some return edge on the sides.

 

You could have a look at these troopers build threads to see how they have positioned their straps, or other WTF build threads

Kris B

MintImperial

Adianu

 

Having extra material on the sides of your shoulder straps is perfectly fine

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[dblcross[TK]]

Don't know if this helps. Heres a picture of mine.