TK ANH Stunt by CloseTheBlastDoor

[CloseTheBlastDoor[TK]]

ETA on the boots is unknown at this point, so what remains is the optional stuff.
 

E-11 Blaster:

• Folding stock (does not need to function).
• A real or replica ammo counter - based off of a Hengstler counter - shall be present.
• D-ring mounted on the rear.
• Sterling based blasters have the correct M-38 or M-19 style scope.
• Two power cylinders on the magazine housing.
• Scratch-built or cast blasters shall have a total of 6 T-tracks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the magazine housing side uncovered).
• If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster, it is modified to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total), with a lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side.
  • This is accomplished by covering the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, then grinding off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side, and drilling a new row of holes in its place.
• 3-D printed blasters can not contain visible print lines, and must be sanded smooth for a more realistic appearance.
• No ESB/ROTJ greeblies are allowed on the blaster.

I have an E-11 blaster that I obtained from someone on eBay who claimed that it’s 501st-approved. But I have my doubts, as several things don’t look right to me. This is where I am most concerned. 

 

I found this great post here: 

Shall I assume that that one is approvable for EIB/Centurion? What I have now looks nothing like the photos in the post.
 

The files are most up to date on printables.com: 

https://www.printables.com/model/162480-sterling-smg-mk4-l2a3-and-anh-e-11-conversion

 

It’s a lot of pieces, but I have two 3D printers that can do the job!
 

Here are photos of what I have right now:

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

What you have now is a base model Hasbro/Kenner E-11, should meet base approval (depending on your GML). Doopy Doo's used to make an add on kit to make it a little more accurate BUT would only clear for base and EIB levels (depending on your GML of course). Lots of different color/versions, the last of the Disney Parks E-11's had a selector switch to go from kill to stun (different lights and sounds). Majority of E-11 builds back then (13 years ago) were Hasbro or pipe builds, no 3D printers back then (ok there were but around @$2,500 and upwards

 

There also used to be a few others supplying resin kits back around then but unfortunately all gone now.

 

 

I used to cut off the front of the barrel, fabricate an accurate one with T-tracks so it was at least the right size and LED's could be seen through it.

 

My build thread is here (pre 3D file era)

 

And then I had to build another E-11 for centurion standards, this was a pipe build with Doopy Doo's add on's (they also did a full resin kit) and some hand made pieces. Build here

 

 

I did find some 3D files to add a little more detail to the blaster which I posted here:

 

There are some really great Hasbro upgrade/conversion build threads on the forum and worth having a dig through some of them, was always amazing to see how so many builds were a little different from others and quirky additions some people added

 

You will have no issues using Bryan's files for EIB or Centurion, he put countless hours into those files and a lot of detail work, even a working trigger for electronics. Biggest thing is not to leave any print lines, prep work is definitely the key to any printed prop, hurts my brain every time I see printed props with no sanding or filling, hey but that's just me.

 

Bryan has some images in this thread 

 

Zeroroom (who I never got to meet as he retired) came up with some great templates for a scratch build E-11, I'll have to remember to upgrade his watermarked images, stupid Photobucket 

 

 

[CloseTheBlastDoor[TK]]

Thanks for all of that information, it was a mouthful! It sent me down a rabbit hole a bit (which was fun), and It's good to have that historical knowledge. It looks like there's some leeway in how the blaster can be constructed, alright!

 

I was just so impressed by Bryan's files that I started on them a little while ago. I have both a resin and a filament 3D printer (I used to work at a 3D printer company, too) so hopefully I'll be OK.

 

I followed a link in trooper96's thread to JustJoseph's notes on sanding and finishing, and those tips seem very useful. Postprocessing is really the hard part when it comes to 3D prints. Printing itself is easy!

 

Hoping to get some PETG prints nice and clean. So far, no luck.

[dblcross[TK]]

4 hours ago, CloseTheBlastDoor said:

I followed a link in trooper96's thread to JustJoseph's notes on sanding and finishing, and those tips seem very useful.

That's definitely the advice to follow when it comes to building an E-11. Take your time, and you'll have a perfect finish. With his advice, a lot of people are impressed that it's a 3-D print and can't tell. It's even better after I added a real metal folding stock, which added weight to it.

[CloseTheBlastDoor[TK]]

8 hours ago, dblcross said:

That's definitely the advice to follow when it comes to building an E-11. Take your time, and you'll have a perfect finish. With his advice, a lot of people are impressed that it's a 3-D print and can't tell. It's even better after I added a real metal folding stock, which added weight to it.

Wow, yeah, I really can't tell the difference between the metal and the plastic! I've not gotten such a good finish like that before, even with the Bambu X1C or the Carbon M3 Max (industrial resin printer). This is very encouraging, thanks for sharing!

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

16 hours ago, CloseTheBlastDoor said:

Hoping to get some PETG prints nice and clean. So far, no luck.

I have not been successful with PETG as yet, a lot of stringing, they say it takes practice to dial it in but it does my head in constantly testing, will get back to trying again when I have nothing on. 

[CloseTheBlastDoor[TK]]

47 minutes ago, gmrhodes13 said:

I have not been successful with PETG as yet, a lot of stringing, they say it takes practice to dial it in but it does my head in constantly testing, will get back to trying again when I have nothing on. 

Yeah, definitely stringing, single layers gone bad for no apparent reason, and really ugly surfaces left by supports. I've tried several temperature settings, and with and without the enclosure open. If I figure out anything, I'll let you know.