TK ANH Stunt by CloseTheBlastDoor

[CloseTheBlastDoor[TK]]

33 minutes ago, ukswrath said:

Awesome! Congratulations brother. If you ever venture to the Reno area...

I've not in a while, but maybe I should! 

 

BTW I just glanced at your profile- happy 10th anniversary on this forum!

[JBar[TK]]

Just saw your approval!!! Congrats trooper well deserved

[CloseTheBlastDoor[TK]]

Since getting approved and joining the 501st, it is hard to put into words how fun it's been! I did my first troop a few weeks ago, and had a blast. I've met people from around the world, and I feel like there are so many new things to explore. Also, being a part of the Golden Gate Garrison has its perks! Again, thanks to all those who've helped me get here!

 

I'm ready to try for EIB! Looking at the CRL, I think I'm pretty close. Being as close as possible to Centurion for the initial build was my goal, and I've since redone the clips on my TD, as well as adjusted the shoulder bridges. Nevertheless I know there are still many places for improvement.

 

I think what I will need to do is step through the CRL piece by piece with photos of where I'm at. I'll start with the helmet.

 

Helmet CRL, L2 (slightly rearranged):

• Ears shall have three screws per side, one above and one below the ear bar and one at the base of the helmet.
• Ear bars have four bumps only. Not three.

These seem good to me:

 

 

• Traps/tears and tube stripes shall have the correct ANH TK details. Ideally, the tube stripes are positioned approximately a pencil width from the side of the cheek.
• Fall of tube stripe tops ideally lean toward the front.

I might be a bit wide on the pencil width, and I hope that the use of trap stickers is OK:

 

Correct Aerators/Hovi-MIX tips are present. Screens used shall be of a wide type mesh, with the rim of the mic and the inside white or painted white.
 

The mesh is what came with the WTF kit, but I don't know whether it suits the definition of "wide."

 

Thoughts?

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

I'll tag the @Deployment Officer Team and they should chime in 

 

Good luck trooper 

[CloseTheBlastDoor[TK]]

6 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:

I'll tag the @Deployment Officer Team and they should chime in 

 

Good luck trooper 

Thanks, Glen!

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

4 hours ago, CloseTheBlastDoor said:

Thanks, Glen!

My pleasure

 

While waiting for the @Deployment Officer Team I would change your hovi mesh as the WTF is very fine, many use the mesh from a strainer

EIB approval 1060WTF

 

[shashachu[TK]]

I'm not a DO anymore but I'd say your mesh is too fine. Here's mine:

 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/9wLRpv5C1NskZcFp8

[CloseTheBlastDoor[TK]]

3 hours ago, shashachu said:

I'm not a DO anymore but I'd say your mesh is too fine. Here's mine:

 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/9wLRpv5C1NskZcFp8

Thanks, Sha Sha! I'll go find one.

[dblcross[TK]]

8 hours ago, CloseTheBlastDoor said:

Thanks, Sha Sha! I'll go find one

Man, the amount of support we get is incredible!

[Slouch[TK]]

Just to piggyback off this - I have a related question. 

 

Humbrol's #5 Dark Admiral Grey Gloss seems to have changed in recent times. I went to touch up some things and it's two totally different shades. 

 

Is there a substitute colour you'd recommend? I'm keen to replace all the sticker decals and paint the tears/traps, but mindful the new #5 looks way too dark.

 

I'd been told I could mix some white in with it, but worry it'll be hard to maintain consistency and would rather do it right if there's an alternative.

 

Thanks!

[CloseTheBlastDoor[TK]]

16 hours ago, Slouch said:

Is there a substitute colour you'd recommend?

Sorry, Chris, no idea. I don't know that this thread gets that sort of attention, so maybe there's somewhere else to post that's more appropriate? I Googled a bit and found this as well: https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235135589-we-need-to-talk-about-dark-admiralty-grey/

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

16 hours ago, Slouch said:

Just to piggyback off this - I have a related question. 

 

Humbrol's #5 Dark Admiral Grey Gloss seems to have changed in recent times. I went to touch up some things and it's two totally different shades. 

 

Is there a substitute colour you'd recommend? I'm keen to replace all the sticker decals and paint the tears/traps, but mindful the new #5 looks way too dark.

 

I'd been told I could mix some white in with it, but worry it'll be hard to maintain consistency and would rather do it right if there's an alternative.

 

Thanks!

 

Here's a Testors conversion sheet, you could try that.

 

I did run across a few threads mentioning that No5 did get lighter @2008 so they may have now gone back to a darker shade now

 

And another from 2008:

Got to paint them buttons dude 

The Humbrol grey colour has changed and is now lighter. I had to dab in a bit of black to correct the colour in my tin 

We have the Humbrol here in the UK, but I think the guys over the pond have a different brand of paint that is better 

 

 

[Slouch[TK]]

6 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:

 

Thanks for that, Glen - I haven't had much luck tracking down the Testors in Aus. 

 

The Dark Admiralty Grey I have now is quite a bit darker than any of the greys shown in the CRL or reference images. The previous paint that was on parts of my kit (started by a previous member) match PERFECTLY to the Dave M Decals I had, so that looks to be the right shade. Might hit up a few garrison members locally to "borrow" some of theirs or trade for some other colours to get those bits done. Cheers

[dblcross[TK]]

On 11/23/2024 at 10:09 PM, CloseTheBlastDoor said:

Since getting approved and joining the 501st, it is hard to put into words how fun it's been! I did my first troop a few weeks ago, and had a blast. I've met people from around the world, and I feel like there are so many new things to explore. Also, being a part of the Golden Gate Garrison has its perks! Again, thanks to all those who've helped me get here!

 

I'm ready to try for EIB! Looking at the CRL, I think I'm pretty close. Being as close as possible to Centurion for the initial build was my goal, and I've since redone the clips on my TD, as well as adjusted the shoulder bridges. Nevertheless I know there are still many places for improvement.

 

I think what I will need to do is step through the CRL piece by piece with photos of where I'm at. I'll start with the helmet.

 

Helmet CRL, L2 (slightly rearranged):

• Ears shall have three screws per side, one above and one below the ear bar and one at the base of the helmet.
• Ear bars have four bumps only. Not three.

These seem good to me:

 

 

• Traps/tears and tube stripes shall have the correct ANH TK details. Ideally, the tube stripes are positioned approximately a pencil width from the side of the cheek.
• Fall of tube stripe tops ideally lean toward the front.

 

I might be a bit wide on the pencil width, and I hope that the use of trap stickers is OK:

 

Correct Aerators/Hovi-MIX tips are present. Screens used shall be of a wide type mesh, with the rim of the mic and the inside white or painted white.
 

The mesh is what came with the WTF kit, but I don't know whether it suits the definition of "wide."

 

Thoughts?

Great looking Helmet!

[CloseTheBlastDoor[TK]]

2 hours ago, dblcross said:

Great looking Helmet!

Thank you Terry! Happy Thanksgiving!

[CloseTheBlastDoor[TK]]

I ordered some perfect screens from @ukswrath to touch up the helmet, and it’s looking good!

 

Onward to some of the next sections in the CRL:
 

Neck seal:

• Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to conceal the entire neck.

Here’s the neck seal from KeepTrooping:

 

Shoulder Straps:

• No visible rivets are allowed.

 

Shoulder Armor:

• <nothing specified>

Biceps:

• <nothing specified>

Forearms:

• <nothing specified>

Hand Plates:

• <nothing specified>

Gloves:

• Gloves shall be rubber or rubber-like chemical gloves, in black.

 

Chest Armor:

• Chest and back shall be connected with a white fabric or preferably elastic strap at the shoulders.

 

Back Armor:

• <nothing specified>

 

Under Suit:

• <nothing specified>

Abdomen Armor:

• Any gap between the abdomen and kidney armor is no more than 1/2" (12.5mm) wide.
  • Any shims used to achieve this effect are of a similar material and color as the abdomen and kidney armor. Shims fit flush and seams are allowed.
• A split (bifurcated) or single cap rivet is present on the lower tab (cod area) of the abdomen armor.
  • Rivet does not need to be functional.
  • Rivet on must be brass or silver in color, approximately 5/16" (8mm) in diameter and is not painted.

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Dependant on the make or armor and length of the shoulder straps, ideally there should be 1 large tab and 4 to 41/2 small tabs on the front of the chest to match screen references, it's not a requirement and won't stop higher level approvals though  

 

  

 

 

 

And no large tab on the back, some trim the large tab in half

"NOTE:  As seen in the photos below, there are no large tabs on the rear of the shoulder bridges.  This is not specifically mentioned in the CRL, but removing them is highly recommended if possible."

 

    

 

[CloseTheBlastDoor[TK]]

2 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:

Dependant on the make or armor and length of the shoulder straps, ideally there should be 1 large tab and 4 to 41/2 small tabs on the front of the chest to match screen references, it's not a requirement and won't stop higher level approvals though  

 

Thanks, Glen, it's always nice to hear from you!

 

Yeah, with the WTF bridges, I didn't have a lot to go on. The chest plate had some issues where I had to cut off more than I wanted to because of vacu-forming defects. And I couldn't move the bridge down any further without running into the pectoral area:

 

3 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:

And no large tab on the back, some trim the large tab in half

 

It was probably upon your advice at the time to remove the back large tabs, which I did (back side is to the right in this photo):

 

Anything else from my last post that I should adjust?

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

1 hour ago, CloseTheBlastDoor said:

Anything else from my last post that I should adjust?

Should be fine, try to make sure the rear sits down on your backplate and you will be ok