CloseTheBlastDoor[TK] Posted August 19 Author Report Posted August 19 Thanks, Glen and Tony! I'm liking the OG method for the lenses, and I think I'll do the hot glue for the frown screen. 1 Quote
shashachu[TK] Posted August 20 Report Posted August 20 I use Chicago screws embedded in milliput (epoxy putty) for the lenses and electrical tape for the frown screen. Both have held up for 7 years. But tbh nobody will ever see the inside of your helmet so there's probably lots of different methods. 2 Quote
CloseTheBlastDoor[TK] Posted August 20 Author Report Posted August 20 12 hours ago, shashachu said: I use Chicago screws embedded in milliput Yeah, I was going to go the OG route, but in testing it out, I found that the plastic strip that came with the kit is not long enough to reach the ear screws. I'm going to stop by my hardware store and pick up some screws, and am thinking of trimming and then securing the visor between the eyes and on either side. Quote
shashachu[TK] Posted August 20 Report Posted August 20 When I build I tend to lean very heavily into the idea of making things modifiable and replaceable which is why I use the screws, but I probably could have just glued the green plastic in and been fine. 1 Quote
CloseTheBlastDoor[TK] Posted August 20 Author Report Posted August 20 1 hour ago, shashachu said: When I build I tend to lean very heavily into the idea of making things modifiable and replaceable which is why I use the screws, but I probably could have just glued the green plastic in and been fine. I totally hear you on that. I try to build most everything with future repair/replacement in mind. For me, it's an engineering mindset, I suppose. Quote
JBar[TK] Posted August 21 Report Posted August 21 (edited) On 8/19/2024 at 11:14 PM, shashachu said: I use Chicago screws embedded in milliput (epoxy putty) for the lenses and electrical tape for the frown screen. Both have held up for 7 years. But tbh nobody will ever see the inside of your helmet so there's probably lots of different methods. I did something similar using motherboard mounting screws like you have in your PC. It was really tricky with the curve of the lens but after cutting them out I used Sugru to install the jackscrews. Once dried I used a small hand drill to line up and make holes in the lenses for the screws. You can see I still messed up a bit but in the end I'm really happy with the results and I can take them out if needed. Motherboard screws used: SGTKJSJS M.2 SSD screw Mounting Screws Kit for Asus Motherboards Edited August 21 by JBar 2 Quote
CloseTheBlastDoor[TK] Posted August 22 Author Report Posted August 22 On 8/21/2024 at 6:13 AM, JBar said: I did something similar using motherboard mounting screws like you have in your PC. It was really tricky with the curve of the lens but after cutting them out I used Sugru to install the jackscrews. Once dried I used a small hand drill to line up and make holes in the lenses for the screws. You can see I still messed up a bit but in the end I'm really happy with the results and I can take them out if needed. Motherboard screws used: SGTKJSJS M.2 SSD screw Mounting Screws Kit for Asus Motherboards Ooh, that looks amazing! I had already gone past this point when I saw this. Hopefully mine will be as reliable as yours! Thanks for the suggestion! 1 Quote
CloseTheBlastDoor[TK] Posted August 22 Author Report Posted August 22 With the visor I ended up not anywhere near where I thought, but it works. As mentioned in the previous post, the plastic wasn’t long enough to reach the ear screws, so I opted for the Chicago screw method. I made three of these posts like TKZombie did, out of the screw bases and some ABS: Traced and cut the visor, then drilled a hole in the center. After a test fit of the visor, it looked like I could get away with one screw, and some heat-bent ABS strip to tack it down: So the visor pressure-fits against the eye holes, and I’m gonna call this good enough. You’ll also note that I’ve added pads in weird places. This was an adventure. I spent a whole bunch of time discovering the true shape of my head. Basically it’s pointy near the back, then there’s a playground slide to the front of my face. And I guess my head is skinny, too, because the pads around the ears only barely touch me. And then since I’m Asian, my eyes are more forward to the visor, so I added padding at the nose so my face is pushed back a bit (see the Velcro in last photo?). Here’s what it turned out looking like. Still plenty of room for fans and electronics: This started getting exciting, so I went ahead and tried to finish the helmet. Studied a bunch of vocoder paint jobs, and got to work on that, since the other day I finally got a hold of the semi-gloss black. Lots of fine point painting, and mineral spirit toothpicking later, I had this: I think mine is closest to this reference: What say you, elders? I had done the hovi tips a little while ago, but didn’t post about them. I used the round mesh screens provided with the WTF kit, and I’m hoping it’s OK, because from the CRL I am still confused about what “Screens used shall be of a wide type mesh” really means. Dave’s Darkside videos were helpful here, too. Because the supporting area where the hovi tips sit is very thin plastic, they are backed with large washers about equal to the diameter of the tips. I then added the S-seal and the decals. Might I really be done with the helmet? 2 Quote
JBar[TK] Posted August 22 Report Posted August 22 I think you're doing an excellent job with your helmet so far. Glad you found a solution for the lenses. And getting the right padding for the helmet can definitely be a challenge. As far as the mesh goes for basic approval you're definitely fine. When I submitted for EIB one thing I had to change was adding a wider mesh as you referenced. I had the default WTF mesh and it wasn't wide enough. I can't for sure say if yours passes or not but I ended up needing to cut out the mesh from a kitchen strainer as it was a wider mesh 1 Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted August 22 Report Posted August 22 Nice work, you may want to adjust the front tube stripes a little: Level 2 Fall of tube stripe tops ideally lean toward the front. Comparison 1 Quote
CloseTheBlastDoor[TK] Posted August 23 Author Report Posted August 23 7 hours ago, JBar said: I can't for sure say if yours passes or not but I ended up needing to cut out the mesh from a kitchen strainer as it was a wider mesh Thanks. Yes, I've seen others have to do this too. Not sure why the WTF kit does it this way. 1 Quote
CloseTheBlastDoor[TK] Posted August 23 Author Report Posted August 23 6 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said: Nice work, you may want to adjust the front tube stripes a little: Level 2 Fall of tube stripe tops ideally lean toward the front. Comparison Yeah, this one I was worried about, but it's the way the decals came -all together. Any idea how easy it is to remove and relocate them? They seem really delicate. Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted August 23 Report Posted August 23 1 hour ago, CloseTheBlastDoor said: Yeah, this one I was worried about, but it's the way the decals came -all together. Any idea how easy it is to remove and relocate them? They seem really delicate. Apply some painters tape on top, carefully lift a corner, may need to run a knife just under it to get it started, then carefully peel backwards. I've done this to a few helmets in the past and it's worked quite well, you only really need to adjust a couple of the stripes to make it look right. 3 Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted August 23 Report Posted August 23 This one is great This one the second stripe is a touch high but you should be ok Nice work 2 Quote
dblcross[TK] Posted August 24 Report Posted August 24 7 hours ago, CloseTheBlastDoor said: Better, I hope? You got it! 1 Quote
CloseTheBlastDoor[TK] Posted August 25 Author Report Posted August 25 More other stuff: I finally got around to shaping and gluing the shoulder bridges: In this case, I found that careful use of a heat gun was better than a soak in boiling water. There’s really not much contact between the shoulder bridge and the chest plate, so I globbed on a bit more E-6000 in the pockets of the blades near the contacting edges. Also secured the ab button plates while I was at it: Dare I say that I am possibly at the end of the build (and I can’t believe that I’m saying that)! I looked over my punch list of items, and things are looking pretty good. What would be the next step? I see a place where I can request for TK pre-approval, is that where I go? https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/193-request-tk-pre-approval/ Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted August 25 Report Posted August 25 You can post in that thread for feedback, a good idea before the next step to iron out any bugs, but entirely up to you its not mandatory. Approval process is through you GML (garrison membership liaison) there are normally instructions on your local garrison forum, normally you se b d him/her/them full length photos, front, back, side, side, action and helmet off. You also need to fill in a legion membership application and pick 5 available TKID's (numbers) and the first available is issued once your costume is approved, this number is with you for life. You can find legion membership application here https://www.501st.com/members/join_form.php Available ID numbers here https://www.501st.com/members/search_avail_ids.php Once your costume is approved and you are issued with you legion ID you can request higher TK access here 1 Quote
CloseTheBlastDoor[TK] Posted August 26 Author Report Posted August 26 Thanks, Glen! I checked with the Golden Gate Garrison, and there are no additional requirements. I think I'm going to go ahead and submit to them without the pre-approval, since every step of the way I've had your expert guidance!!!!! I think very little could go wrong. Will try and check overall fit first to look for anything glaring. 1 Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted August 26 Report Posted August 26 2 hours ago, CloseTheBlastDoor said: Thanks, Glen! I checked with the Golden Gate Garrison, and there are no additional requirements. I think I'm going to go ahead and submit to them without the pre-approval, since every step of the way I've had your expert guidance!!!!! I think very little could go wrong. Will try and check overall fit first to look for anything glaring. Just watch your gaps and placement of pieces, a full standing mirror is great to have on hand. Good luck, hope you receive some good news in the not too distant future 2 Quote
JBar[TK] Posted August 26 Report Posted August 26 (edited) Wow I'm so excited to see how this all turns out once you take your submission photos. Nice job fixing those tube stripes too Edited August 26 by JBar 1 Quote
CloseTheBlastDoor[TK] Posted August 27 Author Report Posted August 27 (edited) 17 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said: Just watch your gaps and placement of pieces, a full standing mirror is great to have on hand. Good luck, hope you receive some good news in the not too distant future Thank you, Glen, I tried my best with fitting everything. I suspect there will be feedback about thigh-to-knee gap, etc. I have always suspected that I have longer than average limbs. Probably some other boo-boos since I didn't have a full length mirror. Here's what I submitted: Edited August 27 by CloseTheBlastDoor 1 Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted August 27 Report Posted August 27 4 minutes ago, CloseTheBlastDoor said: Thank you, Glen, I tried my best with fitting everything. I suspect there will be feedback about thigh-to-knee gap, etc. I have always suspected that I have longer than average limbs. Probably some other boo-boos since I didn't have a full length mirror. Here's what I submitted I also have a big gap, long legs too, shouldn't be an issue. The only real obvious thing is the gaps at your wrists, right glove is caught at the front. I would bring down your forearms a little, this will give you more room to move at your elbows, you could even bring your biceps down a touch also. Compare with CRL: Here the gaps look great at your wrists as your elbows are bent FYI use a "contrasting background" helps your GWL edit your photos (also helps me when you submit your Expert Infantry application and action photo ) Good luck 2 Quote
CloseTheBlastDoor[TK] Posted August 27 Author Report Posted August 27 1 minute ago, gmrhodes13 said: I also have a big gap, long legs too, shouldn't be an issue. The only real obvious thing is the gaps at your wrists, right glove is caught at the front. I would bring down your forearms a little, this will give you more room to move at your elbows, you could even bring your biceps down a touch also. Compare with CRL: Here the gaps look great at your wrists as your elbows are bent FYI use a "contrasting background" helps your GWL edit your photos (also helps me when you submit your Expert Infantry application and action photo ) Good luck Yup, I saw that creeping glove after the fact . For sure, adjusting the forearms would help. I was having trouble bending my arms. And boy did I discover how important fans will be in the helmet! I was indeed in search of my black background from my stock photography days, but could not find it. All I had was the white, I hope it won't cause too much headache. 2 Quote
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