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Posted (edited)

Order a 3D kit from Etsy. BBB day for that is coming up soon. I can't wait to get this started. HWT in my future!

Edited by dblcross
  • Like 2
Posted

Looking forward to seeing it

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Always can use more HWT's

 

Good luck with your build :duim:

Edited by magni
  • Like 1
Posted

So I'm searching for Blaster electronics from old toys to install in my DLT-19 after reading about @gmrhodes13 using toy electronics and was wondering if anybody had luck with gutting an old 1996 Lucas Films E11 blaster like the one pictured?  uCxP9ix.jpg

I have some experience with electronics and soldering because of my profession as an electrician, but I've never done any coding or worked with Adrino or Rasberry

I'd hate to tear it up if it's not going to work. And if it's not a good choice can anyone suggest a better blaster or a seller of blaster electronics?

  • Like 1
Posted
39 minutes ago, dblcross said:

So I'm searching for Blaster electronics from old toys to install in my DLT-19 after reading about @gmrhodes13 using toy electronics and was wondering if anybody had luck with gutting an old 1996 Lucas Films E11 blaster like the one pictured?  uCxP9ix.jpg

I have some experience with electronics and soldering because of my profession as an electrician, but I've never done any coding or worked with Adrino or Rasberry

I'd hate to tear it up if it's not going to work. And if it's not a good choice can anyone suggest a better blaster or a seller of blaster electronics?

See these come up from time to time on eBay, I used to get quite a few until words like "gun" and "blaster" have been flagged in shipping so they would not send overseas. A later version of this blaster (Disney stores) had a selector what switched from "stunt" to "hero" modes.

 

I also used any cheap electronic blasters that have a sound board, you can't always get the right sound but similar and they are usually a lot cheaper.

 

 

Posted
16 minutes ago, gmrhodes13 said:

See these come up from time to time on eBay, I used to get quite a few until words like "gun" and "blaster" have been flagged in shipping so they would not send overseas. A later version of this blaster (Disney stores) had a selector what switched from "stunt" to "hero" modes.

 

I also used any cheap electronic blasters that have a sound board, you can't always get the right sound but similar and they are usually a lot cheaper.

 

 

Yeah at this point I don't necessarily care if it's an accurate sound. It's hard to find any toy blasters that have lights and sound. Nerf guns are mostly silent.

  • Like 1
Posted
3 minutes ago, dblcross said:

Yeah at this point I don't necessarily care if it's an accurate sound. It's hard to find any toy blasters that have lights and sound. Nerf guns are mostly silent.

Definitely getting harder to find

 

I ran across this one on Aliexpress, great base for an officer build ;) 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005268306478.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.45.12fc5fdfSdKEu9&algo_pvid=d633130e-0ef0-4e72-a691-19295afca746&algo_exp_id=d633130e-0ef0-4e72-a691-19295afca746-22&pdp_npi=4%40dis!AUD!38.28!19.14!!!179.80!89.90!%402101e58317054451735567993e25d6!12000032425219341!sea!AU!178098435!&curPageLogUid=AWljPRwrc4Bv&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch|query_from%3A

Posted

So today was BBB Day for the dlt-19 printed kit I order off of Etsy.QkgsgQu.jpeg0DtMiqg.jpegand from the experience I had with building my E-11, I can tell you right now I've got a lot of work to do! I see filling and sanding (a lot) in my future. CE4XUhl.jpeg Jt7GPRR.jpeg  oxB2G8X.jpeg

 gGAdird.jpeg

  H1ZjVUB.jpeg

  Mjkk0XX.jpeg

  NDSnlWt.jpeg

  yjbkYio.jpeg

Also, I've got my work cut out for me because the trigger is fixed and the main body is solid. Going to have to sleep on this until my grevious blaster gets here by the end of the week to figure out placement of the electronics. Looks like I'll be getting some more Millput as well. Overall with a little work it'll be a good kit. I'll have to get some hardware from the local hardware store for this build. Which shouldn't be a big deal. Can't wait to get started. Don't mention to my wife that I was suppose to refinish the kitchen table before I started another project. Actually, I'm trained better and know in the back of my head that she realizes that already. I'm playing oblivious.

Posted

Much sanding I see in front of you

 

138576220_2517970425175608_2334258754640584189_n.thumb.jpg.e042ab99e2bb101171c6821ea245369d.jpg

 

Good luck, I hate 3D printed prep work

 

 

  • Like 2
Posted
17 minutes ago, gmrhodes13 said:

Much sanding I see in front of you

 

138576220_2517970425175608_2334258754640584189_n.thumb.jpg.e042ab99e2bb101171c6821ea245369d.jpg

 

Good luck, I hate 3D printed prep work

 

 

That's funny!

 

  • Like 1
Posted

BTW, I'll take any advice you guys and gals want to throw my way on how to make this trigger movable. 

CE4XUhl.jpg

I'm thinking about using a dremel to cut the trigger out on the red line and hollow out an area in the blue for a spring and electrical contact. Possibly cover it with a piece of ABS and CA glue then use filler primer and XTC-3D to hide it.

O0lYOq7.jpg Thoughts?

 

Posted

Problem with printed plastic is it melts when you try to drill or cut it. For any moulded/plastic blasters I sometimes add just a push switch into the trigger just so I don't have worry about the surrounding area and hinge/spring. All you need then is a hole all the way through for wiring, then a square cut section for the switch to sit in, just glue in place. 

 

momentary_push_button_switch_-_12mm_square__com-09190__01.jpg.f8fbb3da64439dfbcd8f3f200b2caeaa.jpg

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted

XTC will be great on the larger areas, but it will fill in the details fast if you're not careful. Also make sure you mix it correctly or it can take ages to cure.

 

If you need to cut try use a hand coping saw or jewellers saw. being slow and by hand it's going to cut more than melt.  I also like to use drill bits designed for wood as they cut more aggressively and so melt less, especially if you slow the drill down little.

 

To make that moveable will be awkward, you'll need to first remove the one that's there. Then hollow behind it and then mound a new trigger in its place.  Something like a small tactile switch (look at the 6mm ones), or a sub microswitch will need the least space.  For the trigger its self, once you have cut something to the correct size and shape, a simple pin in the top corner is all you need, something like a small nail is perfect and will be easy to hide.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
12 hours ago, themaninthesuitcase said:

XTC will be great on the larger areas, but it will fill in the details fast if you're not careful. Also make sure you mix it correctly or it can take ages to cure.

Less Is more, I find when using it. It was a lifesaver for my E-11. kjDLrP0.jpg

Edited by dblcross
Posted

Was pretty easy getting to the electronics. As a bonus, I have a new blaster frame to play with later.

Er8Wt2D.jpg

Posted
2 minutes ago, dblcross said:

Was pretty easy getting to the electronics. As a bonus, I have a new blaster frame to play with later.

Er8Wt2D.jpg

I've used one of these in the past, has a nice small board and the separate momentary switch is a bonus, some of the other Hasbro blasters have the switch integrated on the board and they are quite large.

Posted
39 minutes ago, gmrhodes13 said:

I've used one of these in the past, has a nice small board and the separate momentary switch is a bonus, some of the other Hasbro blasters have the switch integrated on the board and they are quite large.

Did you add on to the existing LED? I saw a video where a guy added a string of fairy lights instead of the one LED with no resistors to compensate for the added LEDs

Posted
44 minutes ago, dblcross said:

Did you add on to the existing LED? I saw a video where a guy added a string of fairy lights instead of the one LED with no resistors to compensate for the added LEDs

Was a while ago since I modded that one bit I think I used power from the momentary switch and the other directly from the battery pack, uses a hibright torch LED, also added a resister. 

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

First up, Cutting the trigger out. TDpu7ZV.jpg

OypGIeq.jpg

I was pleased to find out that the grip was hollow so I was able to bore it out with my Dremel.lF5UKJ8.jpg

I plan on making a new trigger tomorrow out of a plastic piece I have lying around in my shed. It's Friday and and I'm already in "Dude" mode so I don't see any more progress until tomorrow

Edited by dblcross

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