TKMC Posted December 31, 2023 Report Share Posted December 31, 2023 (edited) Armor: Walt's Trooper Factory -WTF Neckseal: Trooperstore Undersuit: Trooperstore - Brand: Extreme Racing Gloves: Trooperstore - Cotton blend with Velcro on back - may swap out for Rubber - though Ozzi gets hot and sweaty. Belt: Trooperstore - Brand: Extreme Racing E11 Holster: Trooperstore - E11, 3D Print file from Galactic Armory - Thanks to a good mate "Bud" for Printing... and re-printing the muzzle after I destroyed the first attempting ill-advised modifications. Balaclava: TBA Boots: Vincent from Keep Trooping - One size larger = perfect fit Blaster: Options and budget pending Audio: Audio System w/ICOMM voice modulator and Chatter Loop Audio System UkswrathsSpecialty (also Flat Pan Head Screws for detonator - scarce as hen's teeth) Cooling: Dual Helmet Cooling Fans: Henry's Cooling Fans - Trooperbayshop also Standard Tube striping, trooper frown back screen After some months researching and purchasing supplies, parts, paints, glues and tools, measuring twice and cutting some other time. Finally bit the bullet and started on the hand guards. 1. First Cut: Hand Guards. No Pics - 2. Detonator: Studied (BillHag’s TK-1650) Billagrams for measurements. THERMAL DETONATOR ASSEMBLY HOW TO by TK bondservnt, and justjoseph63 Quick Reference Guide for OT TK. Spent some time getting my head around cutting down to size on a curved/round surface. Detonator caps at approx. 20 cm achieved by taping the Dremel on a solid upright at the right height and simply turning the caps. Had some difficulty working out how to cut a straight line on a curved line of the detonator. Made a bad cut using a Dremel on the side length - had to fix with additional cut using a knife and ruler. Perhaps what I should have used in the first place. My dimension on the curve is 95mm as per approximate guideline - however (last Pic) I have a bevel line - do I crop down to 90-92mm? Edited July 8 by TKMC Update Shopping list 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justjoseph63[Staff] Posted December 31, 2023 Report Share Posted December 31, 2023 Looking good so far, Philip! You are right at the 20mm mark on those endcaps, so just some light sanding and you are golden! Yes, I would take that small ridge off. The entire plate should sit flush against the tube. Keep in mind when mounting the face plate that for Basic approval and above that the "button" row should face toward the back. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TKMC Posted December 31, 2023 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2023 Thanks - appreciate it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted December 31, 2023 Report Share Posted December 31, 2023 Great to see the reference material in the background. Looking forward to seeing the progress 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TKMC Posted January 3 Author Report Share Posted January 3 Detonator Question: The metal bar - I have dimensions of 215mm long (8 1/2”) and 30mm wide. What should the depth be? I have a 25mm wide 1” bar and 1.2 mm deep (0.042”) the depth seems about right - as in fairly flush to the detonator caps. For the life of me - other than importing from GB, Just can’t to find 30mm wide by 1mm or so bar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted January 3 Report Share Posted January 3 Width of belt and size of pipe depends on how long the clips should be on the belt side, on the pipe side you want to make sure the holes are close to the control panel and the TD rotated enough to see the O detail from the back,. You don't want to see clips under the belt. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TKMC Posted January 16 Author Report Share Posted January 16 (edited) On 12/31/2023 at 5:22 PM, TKMC said: Armor: Walt's Trooper Factory -WTF Neckseal: Trooperstore Undersuit: Trooperstore - Brand: Extreme Racing Gloves: Trooperstore - Cotton blend with Velcro on back - may swap out for Rubber - though Ozzi gets hot and sweaty. Belt: Trooperstore - Brand: Extreme Racing E11 Holster: Trooperstore Balaclava: TBA Boots: TBA - foot size and supplier TBC. Blaster: Options and budget pending Audio: Audio System w/ICOMM voice modulator UkswrathsSpecialty Cooling: Dual Helmet Cooling Fans: Henry's Cooling Fans - Trooperbayshop After some months researching and purchasing supplies, parts, paints, glues and tools, measuring twice and cutting some other time. Finally bit the bullet and started on the hand guards. 1. First Cut: Hand Guards. No Pics - 2. Detonator: Studied (BillHag’s TK-1650) Billagrams for measurements. THERMAL DETONATOR ASSEMBLY HOW TO by TK bondservnt, and justjoseph63 Quick Reference Guide for OT TK. Spent some time getting my head around cutting down to size on a curved/round surface. Detonator caps at approx. 20 cm achieved by taping the Dremel on a solid upright at the right height and simply turning the caps. Had some difficulty working out how to cut a straight line on a curved line of the detonator. Made a bad cut using a Dremel on the side length - had to fix with additional cut using a knife and ruler. Perhaps what I should have used in the first place. My dimension on the curve is 95mm as per approximate guideline - however (last Pic) I have a bevel line - do I crop down to 90-92mm? Trimmed sanded and ready for painting. Worked out how to cut a straight level pipe without cashing out on one expensive plumbing tool. Used a pipe wall bracket as straight line guide and a wood saw. Not a bad Result. On 12/31/2023 at 5:22 PM, TKMC said: NOTE TO SELF: Rushing to get a job done takes longer than doing the job properly. Initially I went straight in and spray painted the pipe after masking up - of course when I peeled the tape, half the paint came off too and had to strip it all and start again - this time properly. 1. Sand pipe. 2. Clean pipe. 3. Tape up. 4. Coat with primer. 5. Lightly sand. 6. repeat with top coats x2. 7. Carefully pull off tape. Ready to assemble -Thats as far as it has got - waiting on 30mm x 2mm x length of metal bar to arrive before I move to final assembly - Thanks to all contributors and reference materials, video tutorials and a little bit of trial and error, its getter there. On 12/31/2023 at 5:22 PM, TKMC said: On 12/31/2023 at 5:22 PM, TKMC said: On 12/31/2023 at 5:22 PM, TKMC said: Edited January 16 by TKMC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TKMC Posted January 16 Author Report Share Posted January 16 Shoulder Straps: Using AJ Hamler's guide was extremely useful. As WTF's shoulder straps come flat and joined there was a bit of extra work to be done. I found it easier to tape done the straps initially and use a steel ruler to cut down the middle to separate the two straps. Next was to roughly trim the outer edges. Looking for a smooth underside to adhere to the extra strip of ABS I used the Dremel and sandpaper to remove the injection mold bumps. I cut two strips of ABS to the shoulder strap dimensions and initially, being a tad nervous used some hot water to test how well the two would bend. Happy with the initial test results, I proceeded with a small pot and boiling water with clamps to hold the straps in place. It is of note the strap and paired backing plate were immersed and clamped at the same time, they shaped specifically to its pair and could not be swapped with the other. Next comes glue and clamps, followed by edge affixing and trimming to size. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sly11[Admin] Posted January 16 Report Share Posted January 16 Well done mate, you are cruising through this easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TKMC Posted January 21 Author Report Share Posted January 21 On 1/16/2024 at 3:27 PM, TKMC said: Ready to assemble -Thats as far as it has got - waiting on 30mm x 2mm x length of metal bar to arrive before I move to final assembly - Thanks to all contributors and reference materials, video tutorials and a little bit of trial and error, its getter there. On 1/16/2024 at 3:27 PM, TKMC said: Forward three steps back four! Enough to say something that looks straight forward, may be deceiving. Back to square one. Placement of the detonator panel with E6000 a, a painted tube and a panel that just won't sit flush. Led to one hell of a mess. So much so I had to strip the pipe of its paint and start again with the paint masking, repainting and clean up the panel too. It would be so much easier if we had grey pipe down here in the antipodes. Before doing so I will try immersing the panel in boiling water and wrap it around the pipe to see if i can obtain a better fit this time. Also why do some say the metal bar should be 30mm and the CRL 25mm? Wish me luck and welcome any other suggestions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted January 21 Report Share Posted January 21 10 minutes ago, TKMC said: Also why do some say the metal bar should be 30mm and the CRL 25mm? The thermal detonator is attached via metal or metallic-appearing clips, approximately 1" (25mm) wide. It's an approximate size to cover those that use Imperial or metric Here's the actual sizing 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TKMC Posted January 21 Author Report Share Posted January 21 Thanks - that makes sense. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TKMC Posted February 6 Author Report Share Posted February 6 On 1/21/2024 at 1:26 PM, TKMC said: After stripping the paint sanding and cleaning the detonator panel... E6000 glue panel to pipe, trimmed any over glue once dry. Masked the ends and panel ready for under coat, sand, over coat, sand, final coat. allow to dry at each stage. Peel tape. voila. Minor paint edges to fix with a fine paint brush on edge of panel. Caps placed. Measurements match the guide - cap to panel 12mm, all the way around, though the panel in the right and top looks out of place - optical illusion or do they appear out of whack? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted February 6 Report Share Posted February 6 Looks like a slightly bigger gap between the end plates and control panel. A few of the makers use a smaller pipe than others which can make this gap appear larger. Note the 12mm gap mentioned in this reference 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TKMC Posted February 28 Author Report Share Posted February 28 Shoulder Bells, Biceps and Arms: While recuperating from minor surgery, I discovered RS Props, U-Tube videos, I think I've made some good progress - from initial trimming to a point where I can consider cover strips and final sanding and shaping - welcome your thought before I start sticking things together. These bits are hard to cut this way... apparently a Dremel is way easier. I found measuring and ruling the marker line quite effective with good matches when placing the two halves together. Once I found the overall measurements on the top and bottom parts of each (based on a 14 inch bicep) I was away. Trusty sawhorse and a nice thick straight piece of aluminum, plus a sharp knife with clamps, became my best friends. So this is where I'm at today. On the to do list, 1. Rough sanding 2. Remove pencil marks 3. Cut, sand and apply side strips 4. Dremmel / Hamd sand - take out the returns, rough edges etc Shoulder bells I trimmed some time ago - Biceps and forearms fit nicely. Will need to see where the shoulder bells fit into the overall layout. May need an extra trim, though will wait until I've got the chest plates underway. Welcome your thoughts. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tilheyra[IPM] Posted February 28 Report Share Posted February 28 1 hour ago, TKMC said: These bits are hard to cut this way... apparently a Dremel is way easier. I've always had to leave jagged edges of excess material when trying to get my clippers around curves. I usually go back and cut away almost all of the remaining excess with an Xacto knife and then sand tiny bit of remaining excess away. That is a bit more time consuming than what others do, so many here will recommend a Dremel for that. The cover strips for the biceps are commonly the same width as the forearm cover strips, so 15mm would be the typical width for both. I say that as I see your notes indicate 12mm for the bicep cover strips. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TKMC Posted February 28 Author Report Share Posted February 28 (edited) Excellent pick up - thanks I noted the 12mm from a uTube press and later hunted down and found on Whitearmour a thread where someone kindly listed the strip sizes for all cover strips. TBF it was that thread which gave me the confidence to soldier on. Edited February 28 by TKMC Wrong link removed to source of cover strip sizes 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TKMC Posted June 18 Author Report Share Posted June 18 Boots arrived - Perfect fit - Thanks Vincent from Keep Trooping 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TKMC Posted June 18 Author Report Share Posted June 18 Chest armour and calves trimmed. Feel i'm starting to make some progress. Thigh armour a tad rough in parts - need some tender work - especially where the Dremel cut through from the inside out - I believe taping the area and sanding from rough to very fine wet and dry is required. Thanks for the advice TK Ratchet. Cover strip on this one may need re-alignment Front thighs looking better than the back Note to Self... Don't Dremel through to the front in tight corners -ABS paste to the rescue and much tender masking and sanding required here - I think I created work for myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TKMC Posted July 8 Author Report Share Posted July 8 On 6/18/2024 at 4:05 PM, TKMC said: Chest armour and calves trimmed. Feel i'm starting to make some progress. Thigh armour a tad rough in parts - need some tender work - especially where the Dremel cut through from the inside out - I believe taping the area and sanding from rough to very fine wet and dry is required. Thanks for the advice TK Ratchet. Cover strip on this one may need re-alignment Front thighs looking better than the back Note to Self... Don't Dremel through to the front in tight corners -ABS paste to the rescue and much tender masking and sanding required here - I think I created work for myself. Thanks TK Ratchet for the advice on the fix - Don't worry about the Dremel slip up, with a bit of careful sanding,you won't see it. Put down some painters tape to protect the surrounding area, and start sanding with a coarse 180-360 grit wet and dry (with some water) to knock down the high spots. Once you've knock down the high spots, start moving up in sand paper grit to finer paper 300- 600-800- 1200-2000 etc. with the aim of each grit to remove the scratches from the previous and blending the repair. Once you finished with 2000 grit it should be smooth but flat, then use a plastic polish which will remove the scratches from the 2000 grit and start giving it some gloss. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TKMC Posted July 8 Author Report Share Posted July 8 Not happy with the alignment of the cover strip to the bottom of the right back thigh. (top yet to be trimmed) Pulled off cover strip - taped off the area for sanding back the glue - used scalpel to trim the base to a square - cut new cover strip, leaving a wedge underneath for square fit - applied new cover strip - end result much better IMO. Question is will it pass 501st inspection? Time will tell. Image of bad alignment. Closer inspection: Off with the old and taped for sanding old glue. Scalpel out and squared off - used ABS paste later on reverse side to strengthen the hole made. Sand back glue and scalpel area. Backs look much neater - Now I'm looking at that top right cover strip and wondering how to trim/sand that to look like the guide. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TKMC Posted September 15 Author Report Share Posted September 15 Anyone else have problems with the right knee ammo belt splitting as it wraps around the calf? Any suggestion welcomed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted September 15 Report Share Posted September 15 1 hour ago, TKMC said: Anyone else have problems with the right knee ammo belt splitting as it wraps around the calf? Any suggestion welcomed. No issue for me, albeit I do like to give it a little heat so it's easier to bend. I use a heat gun, some use hot water bath or torch. Similar process to the belt I would think rough up the area inside and glue some scrap abs behind the crack, really depends were it is sitting on the thigh. Just make sure you try on some scraps, doesn't need much heat before the plastic is pliable 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TKMC Posted September 16 Author Report Share Posted September 16 No issue for me, albeit I do like to give it a little heat so it's easier to bend. I use a heat gun, some use hot water bath or torch. Similar process to the belt[/url] I would think rough up the area inside and glue some scrap abs behind the crack, really depends were it is sitting on the thigh. Thanks - I’ll make repairs and use a bit of heat and see how I go.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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