gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted March 26 Report Posted March 26 7 hours ago, Veist said: I realized that the knee block has angled lower corners like the figure and the rest of the nighttroopers That's pretty standard for ROTK's 1 Quote
Veist[501st] Posted March 27 Author Report Posted March 27 Made the cracks today....took a few hours but looks good. About to paint the first parts now Quote
Veist[501st] Posted March 28 Author Report Posted March 28 First parts are painted. These are the easy parts that only have one colour Im painting the golden cracks later when i have everything else painted 1 Quote
Veist[501st] Posted March 29 Author Report Posted March 29 Some painting updates. Im painting the golden cracks and do weathering when the chestplate is ready, to make it all the same. Kama still the old, but the size of the parts look good i think. Probably have to make the main belt bigger. 1 Quote
Veist[501st] Posted March 29 Author Report Posted March 29 (edited) (need to figure out how i can delete comments)^^ Edited March 29 by Veist Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted March 29 Report Posted March 29 You may need to reduce the size of your shins as you have a lot of room space showing in them and they do look a little large from the front. Quote
Veist[501st] Posted March 29 Author Report Posted March 29 (edited) vor 47 Minuten schrieb gmrhodes13: You may need to reduce the size of your shins as you have a lot of room space showing in them and they do look a little large from the front. Yeah i thought about that too, but i dont really know how i can do that. Dunno how and where i can make it tighter. This is the standard size of 850armorworks shins Edited March 29 by Veist Quote
Veist[501st] Posted March 30 Author Report Posted March 30 Kama will be extended to get the correct lenght (Kama has the same lenght as the distance between kama top and helmet top) Quote
Veist[501st] Posted March 30 Author Report Posted March 30 (edited) vor 19 Stunden schrieb gmrhodes13: You may need to reduce the size of your shins as you have a lot of room space showing in them and they do look a little large from the front. I think i found a possibility. I can make a straight cut at the sides, and overlap the front with the back. That will make it tighter and i just have to clean the line. Update: I have now cutted, and glueing right now. We will see in a few days how the result is, but the fitting fest looked good. Edited March 30 by Veist 2 Quote
Veist[501st] Posted April 1 Author Report Posted April 1 (edited) So i mistook the right and left shin. The openings are now are the outside. Although i did not found any clue in the crl if it has to be so or they have to be on the inside. What i will do: cover the cracks with abs sludge and remake them on the correct leg, so that the opening will be on the inside Edited April 1 by Veist Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted April 1 Report Posted April 1 8 hours ago, Veist said: So i mistook the right and left shin. The openings are now are the outside. Although i did not found any clue in the crl if it has to be so or they have to be on the inside. What i will do: cover the cracks with abs sludge and remake them on the correct leg, so that the opening will be on the inside If you reference the ROTK images you can tell it's outside over inside, it's pretty much the same with most costumes (same as the thighs) Note position of the cover strips too, closer to the outside Quote
Veist[501st] Posted April 2 Author Report Posted April 2 They are coser vor 21 Stunden schrieb gmrhodes13: If you reference the ROTK images you can tell it's outside over inside, it's pretty much the same with most costumes (same as the thighs) Note position of the cover strips too, closer to the outside They are closer to the outside. a little more central than the pics although, but more on the outside Quote
Veist[501st] Posted April 3 Author Report Posted April 3 4h of scaling the chest and back. Test print will be sent to me, before we make the full print. Thats the scaling for now: Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted April 3 Report Posted April 3 It's definitely an area many have to play with, appears you have the width in the sides/wings and also the neck. Quote
Veist[501st] Posted April 5 Author Report Posted April 5 (edited) So i heard some use gold leaf to make the gold areas. Will that be necessary or is "normal" gold color like mine fine too? Since my gold color matches the gold of the show Edit: i saw in the CRL creation thread that gold leaf for the cracks is just for Lvl 3 certification? Edited April 5 by Veist Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted April 5 Report Posted April 5 10 minutes ago, Veist said: So i heard some use gold leaf to make the gold areas. Will that be necessary or is "normal" gold color like mine fine too? Since my gold color matches the gold of the show Edit: i saw in the CRL creation thread that gold leaf for the cracks is just for Lvl 3 certification? Won't know for sure until the CRL is finalized, there has been little input there to date, but I would think it would be L2 or L3 and not required for basic. 1 Quote
Veist[501st] Posted April 5 Author Report Posted April 5 vor 2 Minuten schrieb gmrhodes13: Won't know for sure until the CRL is finalized, there has been little input there to date, but I would think it would be L2 or L3 and not required for basic. Thanks for that. Since i painted already everything gold and my last time working with gold leaf ended in a catastrophe (my whole room was golden) 1 Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted April 5 Report Posted April 5 2 minutes ago, Veist said: Thanks for that. Since i painted already everything gold and my last time working with gold leaf ended in a catastrophe (my whole room was golden) Definitely a difficult product to apply, I've used it in the past and ended up picking up little pieces of gold leaf for months 1 Quote
themaninthesuitcase[Admin] Posted April 6 Report Posted April 6 16 hours ago, Veist said: So i heard some use gold leaf to make the gold areas. Will that be necessary or is "normal" gold color like mine fine too? Since my gold color matches the gold of the show Edit: i saw in the CRL creation thread that gold leaf for the cracks is just for Lvl 3 certification? 16 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said: Won't know for sure until the CRL is finalized, there has been little input there to date, but I would think it would be L2 or L3 and not required for basic. As Glen says, it's not final but as it stands no leaf until Lvl3. I suspect that will stand for cracks, but I do want to ask about if we want leaf for the armour, not cracks, at level 2 as it is such a major part of the look of this costume. Though I can't imagine basic ever requiring it. 1 Quote
Veist[501st] Posted April 17 Author Report Posted April 17 (edited) So, a bunch of photos: First, the blaster. Definitely bigger than i thought^^ Second, the chest and backplate, assembled with tape Third, me holding the chest as a size reference, yes i need to adjust the abs-plate Then my figurine with the helm, chest/back and the abs-plate There is some evidence in the show, that the top of his abs-plate is visible under the chest/back. If not allowed, i have to cut the abs-plate Edited April 17 by Veist Quote
Veist[501st] Posted May 3 Author Report Posted May 3 so would you recommand cutting this part away? and the plate at the back too? Quote
Veist[501st] Posted May 8 Author Report Posted May 8 (edited) Softparts are currently under re-do at a friends house: -Kama will be remade CRL-accurate, including all panels, belt and holster -fleece of the inside of the gloves will be removed -neckseal will get black cloth around, since its too short And i need to make the grip if the blaster accurate, with horizontal lines. And paint it. Edited May 8 by Veist 1 Quote
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