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Posted

TK-13239 Requesting ANH Stunt EIB Status

 

Name: Matthew Sawa

TK-13239

https://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=37125

FISD: Sawanator

Garrison: Canadian

Height: 6’2”

Weight: 225lbs

Armor and helmet maker: Dave’s Darkside Depot

Blaster maker: QuestDesignCanada

Boot Maker: Custom boots made by Jasmine Martins. These boots were based of a pair of Crowprops that did not fit. I have a size 14 wide foot and I could not find a shoe maker. She did a pretty outstanding job IMO.

Canvas Belt Maker: ImperialIssue

Handguards: Justjoseph63

Holster and Neck Seal Maker: DarmansProps

 

Here are my pictures for submission:

 

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  • Like 3
Posted

Lookin' sharp, Matthew!

 

A few tiny issues, but nothing that can't be remedied, and I can definitely see an EI badge in your near future!  

 

You might want to think about extending the paint on your vocoder a little.  It doesn't have to go all the way to the top as seen in the first two reference images, but even the ones that didn't (last image) went a bit higher.  ;)  I would suggest covering the ridge(s) as seen in the first pic.

 

   C02jIPY.jpg       CT2kRWe.jpg   UkvjR72.jpg      aBkIcYC.jpg 

 

The imprinting on your rubber gloves will come off easily with a small amount of Goo Gone or any stain remover.  

 

d1BK0b0.jpg

 

I think you pretty much have this nailed, and looking forward to seeing you at the next level!  :jc_doublethumbup:

  • Like 1
Posted

Exciting Matt!

 

Love the angle of the TD on the back, good job! And the work you've done to cover the previous split rivet holes is awesome, must have been a daunting task at first, so good job

 

You've got this! :jc_doublethumbup:

Posted

Hi Matt, great to see your EIB application!

 

I will need you to do me a favor , could you please add your Legion Profile link to the info.?

 

One of us will be with you ASAP.

 

Added to the processing line.

 

:salute:

Posted

Good luck trooper

Posted
19 hours ago, justjoseph63 said:

Lookin' sharp, Matthew!

 

A few tiny issues, but nothing that can't be remedied, and I can definitely see an EI badge in your near future!  

 

You might want to think about extending the paint on your vocoder a little.  It doesn't have to go all the way to the top as seen in the first two reference images, but even the ones that didn't (last image) went a bit higher.  ;)  I would suggest covering the ridge(s) as seen in the first pic.

 

   C02jIPY.jpg       CT2kRWe.jpg   UkvjR72.jpg      aBkIcYC.jpg 

 

The imprinting on your rubber gloves will come off easily with a small amount of Goo Gone or any stain remover.  

 

d1BK0b0.jpg

 

I think you pretty much have this nailed, and looking forward to seeing you at the next level!  :jc_doublethumbup:

Thanks for the tips. I can do that easily! I wasn't sure what to do about the gloves, so definitely feedback I was looking for. Cheers.

Posted
19 hours ago, Nairy said:

Exciting Matt!

 

Love the angle of the TD on the back, good job! And the work you've done to cover the previous split rivet holes is awesome, must have been a daunting task at first, so good job

 

You've got this! :jc_doublethumbup:

Ya, that really sucked. I was following the standard gaps then realized I needed to even it out for larger armor. Oops! 

I would still love to improve those plugs and really buff it out, but it's good enough for now. 

Lost a few pounds once I realized that mistake!

  • Like 1
Posted
13 hours ago, TKSpartan said:

Hi Matt, great to see your EIB application!

 

I will need you to do me a favor , could you please add your Legion Profile link to the info.?

 

One of us will be with you ASAP.

 

Added to the processing line.

 

:salute:

Just did that. Should I fix things up the suggestions above first?

Posted
3 hours ago, Sawanator said:

Just did that. Should I fix things up the suggestions above first?

I would while waiting for the Deployment Officers to review, the gloves came up on another EIB application recently ;) 

 

GLOVES:

Black in color, made of either rubber, nomex, leather, or leather-like material, with no visible straps or logos/designs

 

A touch up of black on your vocoder should be an easy task :duim:

 

Watch out for dressing issues too, shoulder strap under backplate, a full length mirror can be a great help if you don't have a camera person who knows the costume well.

shoulder.png.3888f8f261a01e2d298da0423343aeb9.png

 

 

 

Posted
9 hours ago, Sawanator said:

Just did that. Should I fix things up the suggestions above first?

 

Yes please. :salute:

  • Like 1
Posted
13 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:

I would while waiting for the Deployment Officers to review, the gloves came up on another EIB application recently ;) 

 

GLOVES:

Black in color, made of either rubber, nomex, leather, or leather-like material, with no visible straps or logos/designs

 

A touch up of black on your vocoder should be an easy task :duim:

 

Watch out for dressing issues too, shoulder strap under backplate, a full length mirror can be a great help if you don't have a camera person who knows the costume well.

shoulder.png.3888f8f261a01e2d298da0423343aeb9.png

 

 

 

Wow, didn't notice that. Thanks. Should I retake that picture for submission?

Posted
1 minute ago, Sawanator said:

Wow, didn't notice that. Thanks. Should I retake that picture for submission?

Entirely up to the @Deployment Officer Team, I would wait to see what they say

Posted (edited)

I have made changes to the paint on the vocoder and removed the writing from the gloves and replaced those images in the original post. Please note, the angled shot where I tried to show my lens is the old vocoder paint job. The new paint job is in the head on shot.

 

I also added a picture from earlier in the summer when I was trying things on. You can see the shoulder bridge over the back plate in that one.  Hope this helps.

Cheers,

Matt

Edited by Sawanator
Posted
hace 1 hora, Sawanator dijo:

Wow, didn't notice that. Thanks. Should I retake that picture for submission?

 

Hi Matt. Yes please, you better retake the photo. :duim:

 

Regarding the painting of the vocoder, maybe you can touch up the new lines a little bit, (more sharper lines;)).

 

 

 

As we continue with your review, could you add these photos?:

 

-Photo of the helmet (more from the front) where we can see the paint on the teeth.

-Left thigh ammo pack rivet close up (inside)

-Right thigh ammo pack rivet close up (inside)

-Boots (side picture)

 

 

 

In addition, the blaster, in the photos, looks brown.... It's probably due to the lighting when you took the photos.  If it's not too much trouble, could you post others where we can see the black color well?

 

Thanks Matt!:salute:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  • Like 2
Posted

I've add the photos requested. I just realized I put the wrong paint on (it was too glossy). I'll have to redo the vocoder, but I can seem to find the right paint at home, so I may have to pick one up before I can re-post with cleaner lines (my apologies, I have shaky hands when it comes to fine motor things). 

 

The photo (outside shot) I added of the shoulder bridges, it that ok for submission? 

Posted

Hi Matt. We need to ask you for a couple of fixes while we continue with your request. The first is very common. It is an easy fix. It looks more complicated than it is. We need you to remove the excess paint from the gums.  As we always recommend, you can achieve this with a little mineral spirits and a toothpick.

 

 

                                                                                                                                                                                                            Reference image

vHA0oPQ.jpg                                 wyASlBD.jpg

 

 

The other fix, are the soles of your boots. The CRL states:           

L1.- Flat sole with a short heel. We are aware of the dangers of a completely flat sole, but you could use the dremel, or take the boots to a "cobbler" (I think that's what it's called;)), to smooth  the edges, so that the soles look totally flat.

 

 

6Lh3J2C.jpg

 

 

Regarding the photos, they are fine. Although for your Centurion application (which we are sure you will apply for :jc_doublethumbup:), you will have to publish all the photos with the fixes made.

 

  • Like 1
Posted
On 11/23/2023 at 7:18 PM, Chemi said:

Hi Matt. We need to ask you for a couple of fixes while we continue with your request. The first is very common. It is an easy fix. It looks more complicated than it is. We need you to remove the excess paint from the gums.  As we always recommend, you can achieve this with a little mineral spirits and a toothpick.

 

 

                                                                                                                                                                                                            Reference image

vHA0oPQ.jpg                                 wyASlBD.jpg

 

 

The other fix, are the soles of your boots. The CRL states:           

L1.- Flat sole with a short heel. We are aware of the dangers of a completely flat sole, but you could use the dremel, or take the boots to a "cobbler" (I think that's what it's called;)), to smooth  the edges, so that the soles look totally flat.

 

 

6Lh3J2C.jpg

 

 

Regarding the photos, they are fine. Although for your Centurion application (which we are sure you will apply for :jc_doublethumbup:), you will have to publish all the photos with the fixes made.

 

For sure. I will fix those things and repost when it's time.

 

Thanks for the tips on the boots. I didn't notice that. I will fix the gums and re-post that pic. 

 

So as luck would have it, I can't find my black paint. I bought it a few years ago, when I started.

 

Went to Michaels and a few local hobby shops. Nobody is carrying the Testors 1747, and apparently Humbrol is on the naughty list in Canada, so it's hard to get replacements. 

 

Does anybody know if there is any other substitute paint brand I can use for the black on the vocoder?

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Sorry, I've taken so long. I finally found black paint. Let me know about the vocoder.

 

I started working on the grey from the gums. I will have to touch it up in some sections that now have rough edges, but please let me know if I've removed enough.

6yqqXJp.jpg

GgtxSXK.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted

Trying to figure out which way to go with this part. I'm not sure if I went to far on the right side (blue) and should build it back up, or if I should work on the left (yellow) to lower it a bit a just clean up the blue side into a straighter line.

 

u2bVf8I.jpg

Posted

The one with the yellow arrow looks like it could (should) be brought down just a bit, and the grey paint at the top of the tooth (blue arrow) should be evened out.  The rest look awesome! 

 

An alternative to stripping the paint off of the top of the yellow arrow tooth would be to use a needle file (or a popsicle stick wrapped in sandpaper**) to even out/raise the areas between the teeth, as they look a little jagged.

 

pEeqYbO.jpg

 

**You can shave the popsicle stick down to the width you need.  ;)

Posted
1 hour ago, justjoseph63 said:

The one with the yellow arrow looks like it could (should) be brought down just a bit, and the grey paint at the top of the tooth (blue arrow) should be evened out.  The rest look awesome! 

 

An alternative to stripping the paint off of the top of the yellow arrow tooth would be to use a needle file (or a popsicle stick wrapped in sandpaper**) to even out/raise the areas between the teeth, as they look a little jagged.

 

pEeqYbO.jpg

 

**You can shave the popsicle stick down to the width you need.  ;)

Great tip. Thanks. I will try that. Thanks

Posted

Looks MUCH better, sir!  :duim:

 

Design Quest makes an awesome blaster, no doubt, but If I may make a few small suggestions:

 

1.  The Hengstler counter-  Ideally it should sit a bit lower and more toward the rear.  This can be easily remedied with a drill and about 10minutes of your time.  Note in the reference images how it does not sit perfectly level but actually follows the angle of the folding stock.

 

RAjcQ4w.jpg          X4TT0DT.jpg  cgYaN6c.jpg  OTrSz1z.jpg

 

The process involves removing 3 screws- the first being the one that holds the scope rail on at the rear (pic 1).  After you remove the rail, you will be able to access the plate on the rail that the Hengstler mounts to (pic 2).

 

6sUk3Dz.jpg  fRBHrCA.png

 

Just remove the screws, reposition it, drill a couple of new holes and re-attach the screws.  Done!

 

The second item is that there is no recoil spring.  This is another thing that should take about 10 minutes.  The inside diameter of QD's inner shroud prevents using a "standard" diameter spring, but it can be done!  I believe the end cap of the QD is removable, and Adam @revlimiter did a superb job (second pic) in his fantastic build thread for the QD.  The way he did it can be found in this post (you have to scroll down a bit to see it).

 

e2XqtlH.jpg      ahjZJvq.jpg

 

The Hengstler position is not the biggest of deals and the D.O.s may not mention it, but the missing spring may be an issue.   Again, fantastic job jumping on the previous suggestions!  I can definitely see an EI badge under your name soon, and then it's on to Centurion!  :salute:

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