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Posted

So I'm going to try my hand a building a R1TK. I'm starting with Nico's helmet and we'll see where we go from there. I'm hoping that @BigJasoni might be willing to give me some pointers as his thread is what his me hope, and the fact he is in my Garrison. LOL.

I've started printing some parts from Nico, and OxProps. Would love to see if @TKModder421 is offering any of his files as I really liked some of the mods he made. Anyway, here are some random pics of my helmet so far.9e53de9c13d04fdfd738256c7fce6f6a.jpg8149a89961d7618b5241de35bc37328b.jpg4a937bc2ae3793224b8ab66c8b5c3e27.jpg149858936b6b3a531e0070f9a614fabb.jpge2659b6b45cd12b99118caf7ddf3de6a.jpg

 

Sent from my SM-N981U1 using Tapatalk

 

 

Posted
23 minutes ago, jsilvius said:

Would love to see if @TKModder421 is offering any of his files as I really liked some of the mods he made. Anyway, here are some -

I contacted him some time ago, he is happy to share his files, the only stipulation was you have to purchased Nico's files, which you have.

 

Looking forward to seeing the progress

  • Like 1
Posted

James,

I didn’t see this a couple days ago because I was torturing myself in another ultramarathon, but you know I’m always more than happy to help. :D First, I’m glad to see you took the CF Filament advice. Again, yes it is a PLA compound, but the 20% Carbon Fiber changes the entire dynamic and structure. Everything I’ve ever had an issue with regarding PLA is erased with this stuff and I’ve stress tested it excessively including in all that heat we had this year.

 

Also, here’s a little secret for everyone as to why I’m a fan… The office I used to work for was sending components made from this stuff out to Iraq and Afghanistan, so I’ve got full confidence in its ability to handle a few 501st troops. 


So, starting with the helmet, sand it down moving from 80-220 grit first. You’ll see it start to smooth out after a round of 110 grit, but if you really want to cut your finishing time, get some fingernail files/ emery boards and just go to town.

https://a.co/d/54Oe92A

 

The filament will take on a gray, almost cloudy color, then you’ll be ready for filler primer. Here’s a 000 head I’m working on:

 

R0JeEQ9.jpg

Once there, I now hit it with a coat of Upol Expert Sandable Primer which you can grab at Autozone for about the same price as Rustoleum Filler Sandable. 

UnHgyww.jpg

 

This stuff dries fast and almost creates a shell over the part. Once dried, it feels like hardened resin. It’s been hiding under our noses all these years. 
This is how one of my FOTK buckets looked after sanding + one coat of Upol.

 ma7bejc.jpg

 

But, I’m sure you didn’t post this for 3d print instructions, so let’s get back to the bucket.
 

Rubber trim is easy to find and looks great on the neck ring:

https://a.co/d/epvrCqt

 

For the lenses, I would encourage you to grab a set from Paul Prentice. You can use the buck Nico provided in the files to form your own, but Paul’s are cheap and he already did the work for you. Shipping was quick enough from the UK. While you’re at it, ask him for some metal shoulder bridges.

 

I’m not a fan of Nico’s Hovi Mics, mostly because I wanted a real steel screen in there. They work, but there’s more accurate files out there.

 

I stole @TheRascalKing’s idea a couple years ago and now spray the interior of every helmet with bed liner. This helps with darkening everything as well as filling the gritty inside of the dome. I think Justin was doing it to add a little stiffness to ABS helmets, but it’s been a huge benefit in 3d printing. Thanks Justin. 


Anyways, I’ll be watching this with great interest and I’m sure we’ll be at another troop together soon. Hit me up with any questions and I can’t wait until you get the armor.

  • Like 3
  • 2 weeks later...

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