ANH TK Stunt - My first suit!

[Scout_Troop3R]

2 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:

Some specs on E6000:

What temperature range does E6000 withstand?
E6000 can be applied in temperatures ranging from 50 °F to 90 °F (10 °C to 32 °C). When cured, E6000 can withstand temperatures between -40 °F and 180 °F (-40 °C and 82 °C).

https://eclecticproducts.com/product/e6000-industrial-adhesive/#:~:text=How long does E6000 take,between 24 and 72 hours.

 

Thread on ABS paste https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/42866-how-to-make-abs-paste/

 

 

Thanks a bunch! I think for now I'll work on making some ABS paste. Happy new year by the way!

[Scout_Troop3R]

Guess who's back? This procrastinating guy!
Now that winter is over I'm gonna start working and pick up where I left off, yesterday I replaced all the burnt out lights in my garage and it feels like brand new, (It's so bright now!!) and I've started on making the ABS Paste for the left bicep and future mistakes (If they're made that is, I'll be sure to be careful.). I'm also gonna go to home depot later to pick up a few things, main one though being a nice fluorescent light right over the workbench so it's truly and properly lit.

One question about the paste though, is it okay if it has any small amount sawdust in it? I've never made it before and just want to make sure I don't mess it up.
Thanks!

[Doggydoc[Staff]]

5 minutes ago, Scout_Troop3R said:

One question about the paste though, is it okay if it has any small amount sawdust in it? I've never made it before and just want to make sure I don't mess it up.

Welcome back Tyler. 
with respect to the ABS paste. When you say sawdust, if you are referring to the abs sawdust, that should not make any difference as it will dissolve into the acetone. If it is wood sawdust however, that would be a different story. 

[Scout_Troop3R]

11 minutes ago, Doggydoc said:

Welcome back Tyler. 
with respect to the ABS paste. When you say sawdust, if you are referring to the abs sawdust, that should not make any difference as it will dissolve into the acetone. If it is wood sawdust however, that would be a different story. 

Thanks for the welcome.

As for the sawdust, I'm afraid it's wood sawdust (a small amount) because it's not just my workbench and over the break my father needed to cut some wood for some repairs.
I'm just wondering if it's okay to leave it because while I can get most of it out but there will always be some left because it's sawdust and naturally gets everywhere.

[Doggydoc[Staff]]

1 minute ago, Scout_Troop3R said:

As for the sawdust, I'm afraid it's wood sawdust (a small amount) because it's not just my workbench and over the break my father needed to cut some wood for some repairs.
I'm just wondering if it's okay to leave it because while I can get most of it out but there will always be some left because it's sawdust and naturally gets everywhere.

I would worry that the wood will alter the colour of the paste and consistency as well. If the ABS pieces are decent sized, could you simply wash them off to get them clean again?

[Scout_Troop3R]

19 minutes ago, Doggydoc said:

I would worry that the wood will alter the colour of the paste and consistency as well. If the ABS pieces are decent sized, could you simply wash them off to get them clean again?

I have a way to just remove most of the dust so I'll do that, after that I might put them through a sieve or something, they're not large bits but they should be big enough to not fall through.

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Any foreign material mixed can change the color of the ABS paste.

[Scout_Troop3R]

After a long, annoying, and frankly wasteful day of work I figured I'd try and make some good of today by cutting and gluing the cover strips on the right forearm, I got 2/3 (I already had one done prior) glued so there's only one left after this, did some trimming as well and got more scrap bits for the paste/slurry (which I am keeping free from contamination)

 

also set up a radio for some tunes while I'm working, so woo 

 

Not too much for today but hey, progress is progress.

Edited April 22 by Scout_Troop3R

[Scout_Troop3R]

I can't do too much today because my garage is freakin' cold despite it being sunny but for now I managed to get the right bicep correctly fit and cut so I'm very happy about that.
Much better than the left one, which still needs fixing but I need a good way of collecting scrap for my paste.

I'd glue it but I need to buy MOAR MAGNETS!!

[Scout_Troop3R]

Quick question by the way:

While all the arm stuff is gluing/waiting to be glued I figured I'd start on the legs.

My first question for them is do the tops of the thighs and greaves/shins need the return edges for centurion? Personally I'd rather remove them for comfort's sake and not get armour bite but I wanted to ask before I did anything.




Also does anyone have any good methods of catching scrap ABS aside from just picking them up bit by bit?

Edited April 22 by Scout_Troop3R

[Sly11[Admin]]

The top of the thighs, if you check movie references, had all the return edge removed, but many do leave some to give the armour the appearance of thickness. If you can get away with leaving some, generally 4 or 5 mm is enough, but you can remove it all,

 

At the top of the Greaves you do want to leave the return edge, this area should be thicker, so I'd leave at least 10 mm.

The bottom of the Greaves don't require any, and you will find it more comfortable to remove it all and less damaging to your boots.

[Scout_Troop3R]

9 minutes ago, Sly11 said:

The top of the thighs, if you check movie references, had all the return edge removed, but many do leave some to give the armour the appearance of thickness. If you can get away with leaving some, generally 4 or 5 mm is enough, but you can remove it all,

 

At the top of the Greaves you do want to leave the return edge, this area should be thicker, so I'd leave at least 10 mm.

The bottom of the Greaves don't require any, and you will find it more comfortable to remove it all and less damaging to your boots.

Cool beans, thanks a bunch!
I'll try out the 4-5mm edge with the thighs, it'll probably be fine.
I figured for the shins/greaves I'd have to leave some so I'll again go with your recommendation of 10mm, the one spot I was sure about was the bottoms of the thighs and greaves, those are definitely getting sanded down lol.

[Scout_Troop3R]

I got to spend the majority of the day working uninterrupted

Anyway I took the clamps and magnets off the forearm and it looked good so I stuck the final

cover strip on and hung it up, along with one of the interior cover strips on the right bicep.

 

After I hung those up I discovered a simple but excellent way to catch ABS waste, that being a tupperware.

 

I also got to work on the legs, and trimmed pretty much the entire left leg, only thing I didn't get done was the top of one of the shin halves.

I trimmed the top of the thighs and bottoms of the shins completely, I left the bottom of the thighs at at 5mm and the tops of the shins at 10mm, tomorrow I'll work on the right leg, and fitting.

Today was quite productive.

 

(Pictures have been added!)

Edited April 24 by Scout_Troop3R
Adding pictures.

[Scout_Troop3R]

It seems today was productive enough to earn a double update!!

After I got home from my wing night I set back to work, finished the trimming for the left shin, and started on the right leg.
In order to get the measurements I probably did a weird and just used calipers and a pencil to mark out where I wanted to trim with an Exacto knife.
Perhaps a strange way to do it but it made sense in my head.



I also used tin-snips to cut in the return edge a little bit to divide it into sections and make it easier, rather than just cutting one big thing.
End result after going back and cleaning back up with the Exacto knife is pretty darn good, very happy with how the ends turned out.
(I'd have taken more pictures but my phone was about to die :/)



Anyway, have a good night, I'm off to sleep.

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

There isn't much weird we haven't seen before  It's much the same way as using a pencil wood scribe, I'm pretty simple so a ruler and pencil does fine. 

 

[Scout_Troop3R]

9 minutes ago, gmrhodes13 said:

There isn't much weird we haven't seen before  It's much the same way as using a pencil wood scribe, I'm pretty simple so a ruler and pencil does fine. 

 

Oh that thing looks sick, very nice lol.

[Scout_Troop3R]

Today I'm not gonna have too much time to work on but I'm happy with what I did get done.
Yesterday I took the clamps & magnets off the bicep and forearm, both turned out well and I started gluing another cover strip on the bicep, and cleaned up the forearm with a rag.
The right forearm is all glued now so woo.



As for today I managed to trim all of the right leg, so very woo.




Although I do now have a bunch of leftover ABS chunks that I'm not entirely sure what to do with, I may just use my dremel to grind them all down into bits for paste/slurry.


 

Anyway that's all for today, I'm gonna have some lunch.

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

I use these for snap plate holders, especially when using nylon snap plates, clamp one piece on either side

 

Just watch trimming the ends of the cover strips I noticed this one looked a little round, screen where just trimmed angled  

 

[Scout_Troop3R]

4 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:

I use these for snap plate holders, especially when using nylon snap plates, clamp one piece on either side

 

Just watch trimming the ends of the cover strips I noticed this one looked a little round, screen where just trimmed angled  

 

Handy thing that with the nylon plates, and yeah that one was a little rounder than I would've liked, so I'll be sure to mark them out for later ones. Speaking of cover strips are the strips for the legs thicker or are they the same width as the arm strips?

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

34 minutes ago, Scout_Troop3R said:

Handy thing that with the nylon plates, and yeah that one was a little rounder than I would've liked, so I'll be sure to mark them out for later ones. Speaking of cover strips are the strips for the legs thicker or are they the same width as the arm strips?

Legs:

Thigh front and back 20mm

Shin front 20mm, rear 25mm

 

[Scout_Troop3R]

Well after another while here I am again, not too much work has been done but ComicCon 2024 is coming up on the 6th and I really want to get something important done to show off.

Therefore, it's bucket time!

Hopefully that's enough time to actually get it done (or mostly done) since the only thing I'm missing are two paints in the mail (I think) and they may not be there by ComicCon but if I can wear it then that's alright, so let's see if I can get this done.





I'll be sticking to the way that AJ Hamler built it and Centurion requirements because his helmet and mine are both AM, though I do wonder if it's easier to paint as you go or after it's done, for today I'm just going to hollow out the frown from the back with a Dremel tool and clean it up, and maybe some other stuff if I have time.

[Scout_Troop3R]

Well there we go, that's done for now.
I don't have any more time to work on it today but I'll see what I can get done tomorrow.

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

I normally paint after everything is adjusted and fitted but you can paint at any stage.

 

In regards to the teeth don't leave any paint on the gums:

Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area. 

 

And don't forget this for higher levels:

• Fall of tube stripe tops ideally lean toward the front.

 

 

The "ideal" ear placement is as seen below, where the screws line up with the rear angle of the trap right above it.  Because some armorers design their helmets differently or send them pre-assembled this is not always possible to achieve, but it is suggested that you try to get as close as you can.

 

Note:  Top ear screws should ideally be located directly below the rear of the trap.

 

     

[Scout_Troop3R]

4 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:

I normally paint after everything is adjusted and fitted but you can paint at any stage.

 

In regards to the teeth don't leave any paint on the gums:

Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area. 

 

And don't forget this for higher levels:

• Fall of tube stripe tops ideally lean toward the front.

 

 

The "ideal" ear placement is as seen below, where the screws line up with the rear angle of the trap right above it.  Because some armorers design their helmets differently or send them pre-assembled this is not always possible to achieve, but it is suggested that you try to get as close as you can.

 

Note:  Top ear screws should ideally be located directly below the rear of the trap.

 

     

Gotcha, thanks for the tips!

I'll probably paint after I'm done fitting/adjusted everything, and while I like to think I have a steady hand I'll see about getting some stencils.

[Scout_Troop3R]

Back again and this time working on more of the face stuff.

I cut out a simple mesh frown and did a simple fit with some tape which looks good, I'll hold it down with E6000 once the frown is painted.




Speaking of paint, while I wait for the rest of mine to come in the mail (mainly black) I figure I'll paint with what I do have right now and get the frown done with some good ol' Humbrol No. 5.



Also I've been looking at ways to do lenses, and ideally I would like to have them as two separate pieces rather than one big strip, but I'm not sure how I would do them and I'm a little worried about drilling mounts in.
AJ Hamler used a mound of JB weld with drywall anchors (+ screws) and I saw someone make a stack of ABS plates glued together for mounts with a simple screw (the latter doesn't seem too tricky, that might be what I end up doing) with a simple screw, I won't do anything until I'm 100% sure about which way I'm gonna do it though.

Anyway, painting time.