Coolajxl ANH Stunt TK - Anovos Kit

[Coolajxl[TK]]

Hello! This is going to be a pretty short build thread for a couple reasons.

I bought a used and partially assembled Anovos Kit, so all the cutting was already done and several pieces were already assembled or partially assembled.

I've also received help and feedback from a fellow garrison member who was able to come over one day and help guide me a bit.

I've also done a good bit of work the past couple days.

 

With this kit I'm wanting basic approval but I've been looking at Ukswrath's ANOVOS TK build (stunt)  even though he went for a higher level of approval.

 

Here's a bit of what I've done already:

 

The only part that has any strapping in this picture is just the shoulder bell. Nothing else yet.

Also I know that the left (my left) shin is a bit wide. I haven't implemented a proper closure method yet, so its not even really closed.

Also since I took this picture I've added the knee ammo belt.

[Coolajxl[TK]]

A question I have though is on the belt.

So I think the guy who previously had this kit was going for a higher level of approval and was modifying the belt, because it's been taken apart.

The screws or snaps that would have held the plastic piece of the belt have been cut. Which is quite unfortunate.

 

So here's how the belt looks laid out:

 

From what I gather the left most hole, the middle hole where the blue tape is, and the third right most hole are where the cut screws would have gone.

Two of the holes next to it are supposed to hold snap rivets which attach on the snap rivets on the lower abdomen armor (Those snap rivets have already been drilled into and attached to the armor, but not the belt)

Then the two right holes align with the holster.

 

Questions I have is, what's the best way to attach the belt since the screws have been snapped?

How should I attach the holster to the belt?

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

46 minutes ago, Coolajxl said:

Questions I have is, what's the best way to attach the belt since the screws have been snapped?

How should I attach the holster to the belt?

Depends on what glue has been used, if it's E6000 you should be able to lift a corner and pry them off. If it's more permanent glue you wont be able to remove the button covers. In that case I would make snap plates and glue on the back of the plastic setion.

 

 

You should be able to bring up your thighs too

 

 

How I make mine

 

 

[MaskedVengeance[Staff]]

Glen’s suggestions are spot on, as usual! If the three square belt cover pieces can’t be removed, then creating snap plates and gluing them to the underside right atop to the cut-off rivets should work adequately.

Personally, I used Chicago screws to affix my plastic belt to the canvas belt. I wanted to maintain removability, but liked the added security of knowing a snap wouldn’t just pop out. I also used Chicago screws for my holster-to-belt attachment—special ones that came with my holster from Darman.

[Coolajxl[TK]]

 

So the used kit came with a good bit of snaps already which is good. However, they only seem to be Male Snaps and Female Bases according to this picture from the SNAP Setting 101 page that was linked.

 

However, they seem to be two different sizes.

 

From the strapping kit that came with it, the female snaps fit all the male snaps in the baggie as well as the male snaps that the person already attached to the lower abdomen piece. However those male snaps outside the baggie don't connect to the female snaps, they are smaller but by a minuscule difference to where they don't fit but to a naked eye you have no idea.

 

 

When I put snaps on the belt, I want them to be able to fit the snaps already on the lower abdomen armor.

So question is, how do I buy the right snap size?

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Snaps are not matched, image corrected

 

Tandy Line 24(5/8") snaps are what are normally used BUT there are other brands out there, try to match your brand and not a different as they can be slightly different in size and will either not hold well or are too tight. If you can't find the same brand think about replacing them all as it will save you time in the long run.

 

[Coolajxl[TK]]

3 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:

Snaps are not matched, image corrected

 

Tandy Line 24(5/8") snaps are what are normally used BUT there are other brands out there, try to match your brand and not a different as they can be slightly different in size and will either not hold well or are too tight. If you can't find the same brand think about replacing them all as it will save you time in the long run.

 

Thank you so much! So I have Male Bases and Male snaps, which makes more sense. That means I need to get Female Bases and Snaps.

Also the only snap I have which is branded is the two on the abdomen armor. They say Tandy on them so I imagine they are 5/8" sized which is exactly what I needed to know!

[Alikh[TK]]

I've had good luck with the snaps in stock at my local Michaels- They are also 5/8".  75+% of the snaps in my kit are their generic brand. 

[Coolajxl[TK]]

3 hours ago, Alikh said:

I've had good luck with the snaps in stock at my local Michaels- They are also 5/8".  75+% of the snaps in my kit are their generic brand. 

That's good to know! I was actually going to go to Hobby Lobby this morning and see if they had snaps but now I'll check Michaels first!

[MaskedVengeance[Staff]]

Both Hobby Lobby and Michael’s will definitely have snaps. Just be aware that some snaps are superior to others, which is why many of us use Tandy. I’d you’re able to implement a double snap system it’ll give you added security in case one pops off mid-troop.


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[Coolajxl[TK]]

1 hour ago, MaskedVengeance said:

Both Hobby Lobby and Michael’s will definitely have snaps. Just be aware that some snaps are superior to others, which is why many of us use Tandy. I’d you’re able to implement a double snap system it’ll give you added security in case one pops off mid-troop.


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So um, bad news. I couldn't find the snaps at either stores.

Well, I found snaps at Michaels but they only had two sizes and neither were the right size because they wouldn't fit the test piece that I brought with. The Michaels I went to also had only a small leather section where the snaps were.

Hobby Lobby had more leather working stuff but even less snaps all were also smaller.

 

I saw Walmart had snaps so I'll check there next if not I might order Tandy online. Probably not the best quality at Walmart but I need a right size for the abdomen armor. I'd be worried about removing and replacing them and damaging the armor.

[Coolajxl[TK]]

The "test piece" I brought btw is one of the nylon strips that has a female snap attached to it. The reason I'm using this as a test is because I know it fits the Tandy male snaps already on the abdomen armor.

[Coolajxl[TK]]

Good news! The one's from Walmart work! They specifically said 5/8" on them which was helpful!

Maybe I'll upgrade them in the future if there is an issue but for now this is what I'll use

[Alikh[TK]]

2 hours ago, Coolajxl said:

Good news! The one's from Walmart work! They specifically said 5/8" on them which was helpful!

Maybe I'll upgrade them in the future if there is an issue but for now this is what I'll use

 

I didn't care much about snap brand/quality when I was building- I liked the convenience of buying snaps down the street when I needed them instead of ordering online and waiting.  That said, I'm sure off brands vary a lot in quality.  I did break a few of mine hammering them together, but it could have been my own skill issue at the time or poor qc on that particular snap.  Either way, the only issues I've had so far with snaps coming loose is my ab/chest connection, but I'm 99% sure that is because of the angle and tautness of my strapping (which I need to adjust), and not the snaps themselves.

[Coolajxl[TK]]

Update!

Got some major progress done today!

Still much more to do, but I feel like I'm almost at the finish line

 

 

 

 

 

 

Still to do:

Add closure method for shins

Attach Sniper Knee

Attach belt plastic front bit thingy

Attach plastic shoulder straps

Adjust strapping on the connecting sides

Attach strapping from thigh armor to abdomen/cod piece armor

Adjust strapping on shoulder bells (I have no idea why they are sticking up so much?)

Attach holster

Edited August 4, 2023 by Coolajxl

[Sly11[Admin]]

Certainly getting there now Eric.

Make sure you don't do any adjustments to your calves without wearing your boots so you get the right fit at the ankles. Easier to remove material than to try and add it back on if you trim them too much.

Once you have the shoulder bridges attached you can start making strapping adjustments so everything sits as it should.

Post plenty of photos of this part of the process so we can guide you in positioning and fit.

Final tuning may consist of reducing the  return edge on some parts for comfort and movement and tightening/shortening your strapping.

 

Great work so far.

[Coolajxl[TK]]

7 hours ago, Sly11 said:

Final tuning may consist of reducing the  return edge on some parts for comfort and movement and tightening/shortening your strapping.

 

Thank you! 
Yeah putting on the full armor I felt more like a protocol droid then a stormtrooper XD

So some fine tuning will definitely be needed

[FN1313[TK]]

Some recommendations I have. You may want to trim the upper return edge off your thighs to avoid armor bite. It can be no fun. Depending on your height and such you may also need to trim down the thighs a bit. Again this depends a lot on fittings.

I’d also highly recommend against attaching thighs to the inner side of abdomen armor for strapping as this can cause the weight of the thighs and such to tug down on your armor leading to discomfort and potentially even unwanted fitting issues.

What I and many have done is get a nylon belt and then use strong elastic loops to slide the belt through and hold thighs up via a belt separate from the armor. Some even add heavy duty suspenders too.

Here’s my example.






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[Coolajxl[TK]]

Real quick, does anyone have a guide or way they've riveted the snipper knee. Not a snap rivet, the other kind that longer and thin.

Reason I think its better to rivet instead of glue is because the shin itself was assembled wide so I can't get enough surface area to glue it down. The guy I worked with before also noted this and said it needed to be riveted. I know that isn't allowed for level 2 and 3 approval, but I'm aiming for basic.

I can post pictures after dinner if needed.

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

You don't have rivets on the sniper plate unless it's for ROTJ version, some GML's won't approve if you add rivets even at base level.

 

I would glue in case you wish to sell the armor in the future.

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

• Sniper knee plate must be aligned with the ridges on the shin.
• Sniper knee plate must not have visible rivets or fasteners attaching it to the shin.

 

E6000 glue, make sure you rough up both areas with sandpaper to help the glue grip. A combination of clamps and tape can help keep it in postion while the glue dries.

 

 

NOTE:  For a more screen accurate look, it is suggested that the top of the rear ridge of the sniper plate be aligned with the top ridge of the calf. Also note that 

            the sides are angled rather than curved.

 

                                         

 

 

[FN1313[TK]]

Just use some e6000 with clamps. Let it sit with the clamps in place for 48-72 hours before attempting any opening and bending of sorts. the glue will hold it very well.


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[Coolajxl[TK]]

So here's what it looks like clamped. However, I don't like how wide it is, but that's the only way I can get it to line up. Glue has not been added yet.

[Coolajxl[TK]]

It's also hard to get touching surface area between the knee and the armor. Also is the left side of the knee piece supposed to be longer then the right? because I also can't get it to line up evenly on both sides without it messing up alignment with the middle cover strip

[TKSpartan[Staff]]

 

Bellow example is from an Anovos EIB approved submission 

 

 

 

 

 

 

As you can see , the left side looks ok but you could rise the right side a bit a trim the edge to match better.

 

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Some add a little heat so they can twist the sniper plate in line with the shin, you can see here the sniper plate is angled down

 

You can also trim some of the inner corner