Recommended printing positions for Nicos TK helmet

[DaddyMan]

I'm getting ready now to print some bigger pieces of Nicos helmet and I've found that there not many "good" positions to orientate the helmet to save plastic and that. Does anyone who's printed the helmet have any printing recommendations for the different pieces? Thanks in advance

[BigJasoni[TK]]

Gabriel,
Nico's helmet is a treat, but saving plastic really isn't an option with it. However, there are a few tricks you can use to minimize supports and things like that. Unfortunately, I didn't take a lot of pictures of the helmet on the bed, but I'll share with you what I have. All supports are set at 4mm with 60 degree overhang.

 

Chin: Supports around the perimeter and under the hovi mic recesses.

 

Ears: Supports under the bottom with a raft (raft not pictured). These almost seemed to defy gravity, but I printed it low and slow so there wasn't any shifting.

 

Face: Plenty of supports needed no matter how you situate it. I printed the face twice in different orientations and this is what worked best:

 

Here's the other way I tried. It used less supports, but was more prone to bad layers:

 

Rear Dome. This printed the best out of everything:

 

Dome. Support the perimeter because it's angled, but no supports necessary under the dome:

 

Here's the chin post print. Since I used Carbon Fiber PLA, it was very easy to sand and not susceptible to heat warping:

 

Here's the chin after sanding and one layer of SEM Filler Primer. No spot and glaze putty or anything else necessary.

 

Rear Dome. Remember how I said this printed the best? Here's the result on the bed:

Very smooth.

 

As I stated, the face was the most difficult part. Plus, I started to get some stringing that I think was actually due to my nozzle getting worn out. CF Filament is great, but you have to change brass nozzles frequently. I primarily use hardened steel or stainless now.

 

But in the end, the face sanded smooth:

 

 

Hope this helps

[DaddyMan]

6 hours ago, BigJasoni said:

Gabriel,
Nico's helmet is a treat, but saving plastic really isn't an option with it. However, there are a few tricks you can use to minimize supports and things like that. Unfortunately, I didn't take a lot of pictures of the helmet on the bed, but I'll share with you what I have. All supports are set at 4mm with 60 degree overhang.

 

Chin: Supports around the perimeter and under the hovi mic recesses.

 

Ears: Supports under the bottom with a raft (raft not pictured). These almost seemed to defy gravity, but I printed it low and slow so there wasn't any shifting.

 

Face: Plenty of supports needed no matter how you situate it. I printed the face twice in different orientations and this is what worked best:

 

Here's the other way I tried. It used less supports, but was more prone to bad layers:

 

Rear Dome. This printed the best out of everything:

 

Dome. Support the perimeter because it's angled, but no supports necessary under the dome:

 

Here's the chin post print. Since I used Carbon Fiber PLA, it was very easy to sand and not susceptible to heat warping:

 

Here's the chin after sanding and one layer of SEM Filler Primer. No spot and glaze putty or anything else necessary.

 

Rear Dome. Remember how I said this printed the best? Here's the result on the bed:

Very smooth.

 

As I stated, the face was the most difficult part. Plus, I started to get some stringing that I think was actually due to my nozzle getting worn out. CF Filament is great, but you have to change brass nozzles frequently. I primarily use hardened steel or stainless now.

 

But in the end, the face sanded smooth:

 

 

Hope this helps

Thank you very much!