Kagamaru[TK] Posted June 17, 2023 Report Posted June 17, 2023 (edited) Starting a build thread here. I’ve been working through my armor since the end of May. Slow but sure. Armor type: Walt’s Trooper Factory Build Level Goal: Centurion Edited June 24, 2023 by Kagamaru 2 Quote
Kagamaru[TK] Posted June 17, 2023 Author Report Posted June 17, 2023 (edited) Three spacers down or 5 spacers down The reference photos show about 5. But it feels like it sits better at 3. And then I’m not sure if my chest plate shoulder tabs might be shorter than reference hence sitting better at 3. Thoughts? Edited June 17, 2023 by Kagamaru Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted June 18, 2023 Report Posted June 18, 2023 Really depends on your make of armor, take my ATA it would only allow 1 large tab and 2 1/2 - 3 small tabs, otherwise it goes over the ridge. Screen show 1 large tab and 4 1/2 to 5 small tabs. There is no requirement of how many tabs just check you have enough overlapping the back plate before gluing You can also remove the rear large tab (or cut it in half) if you have enough coverage 1 Quote
MaskedVengeance[Staff] Posted June 18, 2023 Report Posted June 18, 2023 Welcome Bryan! As Glen mentioned, the amount of overlap of your shoulder bridges will really depend on the depth you need, or essentially the size of the gap between your chest and back pieces. Like Glen, I too have an ATA armor kit, and needed as much span with the bridges as possible. To that end, rather than completely shearing off the large tab on the rear, I cut and sanded it down to about half-size in order to gain a bonus “small tab.” I did also have to remove and reglue my bridges once during the build process, so if you use E-6000 as your adhesive you’ll have no problems with future adjustments! Looking forward to follow along with your build! Quote
Kagamaru[TK] Posted June 18, 2023 Author Report Posted June 18, 2023 This all helps a lot! Thank you! Quote
Kagamaru[TK] Posted June 20, 2023 Author Report Posted June 20, 2023 Update: Arm straps snap system installed. Chest and back are connected. No 1/4 inch elastic yet. I had one snap pull through the shoulder upon removal of the armor. I think I know the problem though. The snap had to be removed and repositioned and I think it got damaged. Will replace with whole new strap as now the hole in the middle is torn too wide for a new snap. Not sure what to do about the shoulder bells pulling the white elastic out of position to be exposed. When I replace it I might glue it in to the shoulder pieces up to the ends to give more resistance. Now that the forearms and biceps are strapped together I am understanding more about pinch and limited mobility. I don’t really want to go to the larger bells. I have a set. But they just look too big. Thoughts? 1 Quote
Kagamaru[TK] Posted June 20, 2023 Author Report Posted June 20, 2023 I might switch the elastic on the top of the shoulder bells for webbing so it doesn’t stretch. That might hold it tighter to the chest connecting straps. Quote
TKSpartan[Staff] Posted June 20, 2023 Report Posted June 20, 2023 24 minutes ago, Kagamaru said: I might switch the elastic on the top of the shoulder bells for webbing so it doesn’t stretch. That might hold it tighter to the chest connecting straps. Hi Bryan, This is a common issue, the white strap is coming out, perhaps you can use double layer strap and shortening the black elastic of the bells could help. In my armor I did it like explained before. Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted June 20, 2023 Report Posted June 20, 2023 Double strapping will normally help, BUT you don't have the other pieces pulling the chest and ab down so that area will pull out the way you are wearing it Quote
Doggydoc[Staff] Posted June 21, 2023 Report Posted June 21, 2023 I found that putting Velcro under the shoulder bridge, and then sewing the other piece to the white elastic kept my shoulder elastics from pulling out. with respect to the snaps pulling through the elastic, I typically double or trooper the elastic where the snap goes through and always burn the hole for the snap post with a soldering iron. Original photo before the Velcro with elastics pulling out Side view with the Velcro in place no more shoulder elastic pulling out Triple folded elastic snap 2 Quote
Kagamaru[TK] Posted June 21, 2023 Author Report Posted June 21, 2023 Update June 21: All of the advice paid off! Went with webbing straps rather than elastic for the bell to bridge straps. Added fabric facing glued in place to the elastic strap on the shoulder bridge to put the snap on plus white Velcro. They ain’t going anywhere! :D Thanks for the guidance everyone! At some point I will need to trim my neck seal bib down a little. It wants to poke out and say hello. 2 Quote
Kagamaru[TK] Posted June 21, 2023 Author Report Posted June 21, 2023 Question: The junction around the elbow is quite pinchy. How much can I sand it down and still be in Centurion level parameters? I’m going to try to lower it first by lengthening the strap a little. If you look at my photo above you can see my right wrist is hanging out a bit. So there is room to lower it. Will that solve the pinching? Quote
Doggydoc[Staff] Posted June 21, 2023 Report Posted June 21, 2023 (edited) Those shoulders really tightened up nicely. you will want even gaps between your biceps and forearm and forearm and hand plate. You can remove return edge on the forearm if needed, or trim the inner curve some to reduce armour bite. Some have put a bit of padding in to hold the armour away from the inner elbow as well. Moving the forearm down a bit may solve it. I don’t think that there is any issue with centurion with respect to trimming. Just the complete removal of return edge at the wrist is required. Edited June 21, 2023 by Doggydoc Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted June 22, 2023 Report Posted June 22, 2023 A great thread from @justjoseph63 on return edges, he trimmed all of his from his elbows And you can see here it all removed from a screen used forearm/bicep Quote
Kagamaru[TK] Posted June 22, 2023 Author Report Posted June 22, 2023 Choices Choices: What is the better option here? I got these two Ab plate buttons from WTF. On the left the surrounding plate is nice and smooth, ready for a nice looking mount. But it has a sunken corner on the lower left. The plate on the right has four good corners but the surrounding bit has dimples that will be within the trimmed edge. Thoughts? Should I try to heat that corner with my heat gun and gently push it out with like a pencil eraser? Quote
Kagamaru[TK] Posted June 22, 2023 Author Report Posted June 22, 2023 Okay I did the heat gun thing. Is this passable? It’s still not crisp like the other one. Quote
Kagamaru[TK] Posted June 22, 2023 Author Report Posted June 22, 2023 Corner Update: More heat. I used the corner of a ruler on the other side to push the corner shape a bit more. Then another on the out side to pinch the edges more or less vertical. I’m pleased with this result. The last photo is in place on the ab plate. Not glued in yet. 1 Quote
Kagamaru[TK] Posted June 23, 2023 Author Report Posted June 23, 2023 Forum Request: Is there anyway to be allowed access to these topics? Especially:HOWTO: Make your TK as accurate as possible. Thanks in advance. Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted June 23, 2023 Report Posted June 23, 2023 22 minutes ago, Kagamaru said: Forum Request: Is there anyway to be allowed access to these topics? Especially:HOWTO: Make your TK as accurate as possible. Thanks in advance. Unfortunately some threads had out of date information as well as non recoverable images (photobucket fiasco) or link no longer works due to forum migrations, as such some have been archived. Updated list of info and how to threads here 1 Quote
justjoseph63[Staff] Posted June 24, 2023 Report Posted June 24, 2023 Looks great, Bryan! Since you are headed for Centurion () keep in mind when it comes time to paint the buttons that it should not extend all the way to the bottom of the raised part (note the gaps in the screen used reference). 1 Quote
Kagamaru[TK] Posted June 24, 2023 Author Report Posted June 24, 2023 Kidney Plate Extension Guidance: According to the diagram that is posted for kidney plate extension the bottom edge runs parallel with the top edge. But the diagram isn’t accurate to my armor. If it ran straight across there would be an overhang on the ab plate by about an inch. See photos below. So which is more correct/approvable for centurion level? I cut one shim straight and one at an angle so they meet flush. Advice is appreciated! Please and thanks! Quote
TheSwede[TK] Posted June 25, 2023 Report Posted June 25, 2023 Hey, I would say neither option and go with a third. The notches on the kidney plate are optional even for Centurion. Due to the way WTF armor goes together it would require alot of extra work to make it screen accurate so if I were you I would shim straight across. The WTF kidney plate is simply not tall enough. Screen used armor: Diagram in full: You might wanna wait for ”those in charge” before you decide on what you want to do, best of luck with your build Quote
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