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Posted
On 8/26/2023 at 4:36 PM, Kagamaru said:

E-11

 

So a while back I ordered an airsoft e11 replica. It hasn’t shipped yet and was pre ordered. As I get close to finishing my armor I have started looking at that bit and came across this discussion:

 

 

Toward the end it sounds like they are basically saying the airsoft version of the e11 is no bueno for Centurion L3. So should I cancel the order? I don’t want just a 3D printed blaster. I want something with some heft to it. Which the airsoft has as it’s not plastic. I have no idea how long I’m going to have to wait for it to even arrive in the states to be shipped to me so I feel like if I’m going to change gears I need to do it now. But I need some guidance on options that will pass muster but not be even more expensive than the airsoft which was like $450.
 

Thanks for input. 

 

 

 

 

Hi Bryan,  

 

As Joseph rightly pointed and as the discussion thread you added , even though the Airsoft E11 blaster wouldn't be approvable just  as it came out of the box and some modifications would be needed. 

 

Our recommendation is that you consider to change the Blaster for another one approvable for higher levels. Sadly we don't have a wide list of vendors for Metal or  Rubber Blasters but the Joseph's recommendation is a good choice.

 

:salute:

 

Posted

Test Fit 2

Ordered a different blaster. So no centurion until that comes in. I’m going to go ahead and try to come in at base level and then apply when it arrives. 
 

I am going to have to retake photos when I can have a member or someone who has an eye for detail help me out. I can’t see when things are poking out wrong or not tucked properly. My shoulder straps are reinforced with Velcro and the elastic loops but are still a bit misaligned. It might just be how I’m standing. If I had someone there that could keep an eye out for that stuff I think I could get a photo with everything more properly aligned. 
 

Anyway this is it so far. 
 

xkhQOv3.jpg

 

6FcfehO.jpg

 

HCrW9kO.jpg
 

zskx8FQ.jpg
 

DQi7OdC.jpg
 

ieAIJtP.jpg
 

Gods this thing is hot. I thing I lost a liter of water wearing it. 

Posted

Does get hot just standing, walking around air gets in between the armor and keeps you cooler.

 

You do have a few issues with gaps and position of armor, your chest should come up it is sitting too low, you notice this more on the side image, note how far down on the front the chest is when you compare to the backplate.

HCrW9kO.thumb.jpg.a5a5b00cef71d048797d3a05003df15f.jpg 

 

A comparison from another trooper, note the gap between the large ab plate and chest. Yours they are almost touching.

wEFnkYw.jpg

 

I would say you are just on the edge of sizing on this armor so some modifications may need to be made so it fits you a little better. Thighs are pretty low I would suggest adding either larger cover strips on the rear so they can come upwards more or you may even need to add some shims.

xkhQOv3.thumb.jpg.c879a3edd0622f703656e9d514ca1fde.jpg

 

Compare with troopers in this image and you should see what I mean.

Stormtrooper_Corps.png

 

A few threads adding shims to thighs

 

 

 

Posted (edited)

Thigh and Chest Adjustment 

 

I took the thigh strips off and replaced them with wider versions. Opened the top up about 1.5”. I feel like the are right at the top of my inner leg. When compared to the photo provided it doesn’t look high enough but it is higher. And the armor shape itself is different. one top is more pointy than the other. I haven’t removed any from the shape of the tops. They are how I got them from wtf. I figured it was the asymmetry the armor is famous for. Or at least how this set is. I could make them match but it would mean shaving the right one down and I didn’t want to do that. I did notice a guy in the back in the reference photo that was attached that has a space around the top of the thighs more like mine. Maybe I could pretend to be him? 
 

I repositioned the anchor points between the chest and the ab plate. I’m pleased with how that matches the reference photo. It made the shoulder straps and neck move up to a better position and the shoulder straps are more in line in the back. 
 

Does this look better?

 

PCMhsIc.jpg


D2pVdCk.jpg

 

Unless I order whole new thigh pieces I’m afraid I’ll never get that tight look of the front row. If I keep expanding and sliding them up I will have a wide black band/space at the knee. I read that these extras were like 5’7”. I’m 6’. Maybe it’s all in my legs. :lol:
 

kR6ZkhU.jpg

 

Here you can see the wider thigh strip. Just so you know I did do the work to make it better. 
 

Thoughts?

Edited by Kagamaru
Posted

Spacing looks a lot better on the chest/abdomen, personally I think the thighs should come up a little more but at the end of the day your GML is the one that looks after base approval so entirely up to him/her.

 

You may want to look at the shoulder straps on the rear, they are not positioned central to the backplate. 

 

Posted
1 hour ago, gmrhodes13 said:

Spacing looks a lot better on the chest/abdomen, personally I think the thighs should come up a little more but at the end of the day your GML is the one that looks after base approval so entirely up to him/her.

 

You may want to look at the shoulder straps on the rear, they are not positioned central to the backplate. 

 

On the straps I have velcro and elastic loops. Is there another trick I’m missing or make them line up?

Posted
4 minutes ago, Kagamaru said:

On the straps I have velcro and elastic loops. Is there another trick I’m missing or make them line up?

I think it's just how they have been positioned. When I attach them I do with both chest and backplate strapped over a box as if they are being worn and glue them so they sit directly over the backplate. I know some try a little heat to twist them but if it was me I'd remove and re-glue. 

Posted (edited)
On 9/4/2023 at 5:37 PM, Kagamaru said:

And the armor shape itself is different. one top is more pointy than the other. I haven’t removed any from the shape of the tops. They are how I got them from wtf. I figured it was the asymmetry the armor is famous for. Or at least how this set is.

 

Hmm...my ANH armor from WTF is the same. I was scoping out the pieces of my armor this evening and noticed the asymmetry between the thigh pieces. I was getting concerned, but it seems this may be a characteristic of the molds used by WTF. I wonder if others have discussed this issue before.

Edited by Tilheyra
Posted
On 9/4/2023 at 6:15 PM, gmrhodes13 said:

I think it's just how they have been positioned. When I attach them I do with both chest and backplate strapped over a box as if they are being worn and glue them so they sit directly over the backplate. I know some try a little heat to twist them but if it was me I'd remove and re-glue. 

Okay I removed and repositioned the shoulders. Much better now! 
 

34p6i5U.jpg


Here I am at my first troop! I was approved for basic level yesterday! As soon as my blaster comes in and I fix some small things here and there I’m going to apply for centurion level.

 

TK42414

3fEDKdN.png


Is there something I need to do to register my approval on this forum?

 

8CUG9dr.jpg

Posted

Armor Bite & Flexibility 

 

How far can I trim into the inner elbow of the forearm? I can almost reach my snaps on my shoulders but not quite. Or can you cut into the bicep any?

Posted

Congratulations and welcome to the ranks trooper.

 

You should be ok to remove more from the forearms to allow you to reach your shoulder straps. You could however apply for EIB and Centurion first then make any modifications, if you had been thinking about the higher levels.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

E11

 

Well it has arrived. On advice of @justjoseph63 I’ve ordered the E11 from Quest Design. Very cool piece. Is it ready to go as is? Do I need to modify it more? It’s all black. Like everything. Is that okay? Or do I need to paint the shell ejection cover silver or gray. Also the counter is black. No numbers. And there is no spring in the channel. Is all of that required for Centurion or can I slowly add that stuff as I go. I do plan on modifying my airsoft eventually as it’s cool as. But I’m ready to start the application for centurion right away. 
 

side note: I have really been enjoying trooping. Been on three so far with another this Saturday. So much fun!

 

Ip2ekAl.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, Kagamaru said:

E11

 

Well it has arrived. On advice of @justjoseph63 I’ve ordered the E11 from Quest Design. Very cool piece. Is it ready to go as is? Do I need to modify it more? It’s all black. Like everything. Is that okay? Or do I need to paint the shell ejection cover silver or gray. Also the counter is black. No numbers. And there is no spring in the channel. Is all of that required for Centurion or can I slowly add that stuff as I go. I do plan on modifying my airsoft eventually as it’s cool as. But I’m ready to start the application for centurion right away. 
 

side note: I have really been enjoying trooping. Been on three so far with another this Saturday. So much fun!

 

Ip2ekAl.jpg

 

Great looking Blaster sir.  I would be great if you can post a photo of the other side. :salute:

  • Like 1
Posted
20 minutes ago, TKSpartan said:

 

It's ok for Centurion level.  :jc_doublethumbup:

Awesome! Thank you. I might add a spring in that area behind the bolt just to complete the look before I make the end cap permanent with glue.

  • Like 1
Posted
2 hours ago, Kagamaru said:

Awesome! Thank you. I might add a spring in that area behind the bolt just to complete the look before I make the end cap permanent with glue.

:jc_doublethumbup:

Posted
6 hours ago, Kagamaru said:

Awesome! Thank you. I might add a spring in that area behind the bolt just to complete the look before I make the end cap permanent with glue.

A cheap option is wrapping coat hanger round a broom stick

 

 

  • Like 1
  • 10 months later...
Posted
On 8/21/2024 at 2:03 AM, Kagamaru said:

Forum question: I posted my troop log here: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/55817-tk-42414-troop-log/ 

but it seems to have been removed for some reason. Did I do something wrong? I thought I put it in the right area...

 

edit: seems to be back now. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ 

I have added your 25 troops badge, congrats!!

  • Like 1
  • 2 months later...
Posted

My kidney plate tends to get really scratched and marked up by the metal hooks of the thermal detonator and the metal screws in the belt. Does anyone have a solution for this or do you just periodically re-paint your kidney plate?

Posted
2 hours ago, Kagamaru said:

My kidney plate tends to get really scratched and marked up by the metal hooks of the thermal detonator and the metal screws in the belt. Does anyone have a solution for this or do you just periodically re-paint your kidney plate?

A lot of people add velcro (soft side) to the kidney, or add velcro to the actual clips. You cold also use gaffa tape.

 

Bolts may be in the wrong position as they usually are that far around on the detonator as you can see in this reference

gallery_12157_51_33329.jpg

Posted
23 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:

Bolts may be in the wrong position as they usually are that far around on the detonator as you can see in this reference

Yeah, for the TD it's just the hooks that are scraping/marking. The bolts/screws I'm referring too I believe are on the holster that fasten it to the canvas of the belt. It's the "Han" configuration so a little further back than normal where it kind of rubs the plastic. Would be okay to cover those in like a white felt or something?

Posted
Just now, Kagamaru said:

Yeah, for the TD it's just the hooks that are scraping/marking. The bolts/screws I'm referring too I believe are on the holster that fasten it to the canvas of the belt. It's the "Han" configuration so a little further back than normal where it kind of rubs the plastic. Would be okay to cover those in like a white felt or something?

As long as it's not seen from the outside you would be fine :duim: 

  • Like 1

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