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N0SweatBobaFett

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5 hours ago, N0SweatBobaFett said:

The classic strapping pack came with the kit and I was thinking about using that one as it may fit the kit well.  But I was also meaning to ask, would there be a benefit to using another strapping method or is it just preference?  

Personally I prefer not using the bracket system, you can get cracks between the bolt holes as well as the adjustment is limited.

 

I have seen some just add brackets without elastic so it appears original.

 

That said there are no requirements all the way up to L3 to use brackets so many don't even bother and go for a general strapping

 

wXbXJe1.jpg

 

 

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5 hours ago, N0SweatBobaFett said:

The classic strapping pack came with the kit and I was thinking about using that one as it may fit the kit well.  But I was also meaning to ask, would there be a benefit to using another strapping method or is it just preference?  

I saw someone who glued snaps in all chest & back pieces and then used elastic/snaps to attach them to each other.
Can't find the link right now. :(

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I saw someone who glued snaps in all chest & back pieces and then used elastic/snaps to attach them to each other.
Can't find the link right now.

I personally avoided the classic system because of the risk of cracks and wear. What I did was make male side snaps attached to black nylon to glue to the armor and then female side snaps with elastic to hold things together. Similar in idea to the photo previously posted.

Here’s some example photos.
be9e98e148245c6fa3792408cc0ab2cc.jpg
5bf3c6ab457035db1a85059198927f37.jpg


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There are many options for interior strapping, and it all comes down to preference as it will not affect approval at any level.  Some prefer the bracket system and have been happy with it, but as Glen mentioned there can be issues.  The ABS used for a normal set of armor is pretty thin, and although ours doesn't normally go through the rigors of those used on screen (thus the word "stunt") the bracket mounts can pull through the over time.

 

Note in the screen used example below where the screws pulled through the return edge (blue arrows) and had to be re-mounted by the prop crew on the rear using washers.  Not pretty, but effective for filming purposes.

 

nWgVaMy.jpg 

 

Not so attractive up close. ;)

AIFOdkA.jpg

 

Some have trooped for years using this method for years with no issues.  If you do decide to go this route I would suggest cutting some flat shims from your scrap ABS and gluing them in under the return edges in the areas where the brackets will go for added strength.

 

76kEOQK.jpg

 

An alternative would be to mount the screws only (for that classic strapping look) and use the nylon/elastic straps to actually hold the pieced in place.  It's a little extra work, but you get the best of both worlds.

 

Note in the above pics from Glen and Kyle that they used the double snap method.  Some folks have had success with using one at each join, but a single snap is much more likely to come undone.  Having two will help ensure you won't have any "wardrobe malfunctions" during a troop.  It's extra work and cost, but for peace of mind it's well worth it IMO.

 

Here is another example:

 

hifAgTB.jpg

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15 hours ago, justjoseph63 said:

There are many options for interior strapping, and it all comes down to preference as it will not affect approval at any level.  Some prefer the bracket system and have been happy with it, but as Glen mentioned there can be issues.  The ABS used for a normal set of armor is pretty thin, and although ours doesn't normally go through the rigors of those used on screen (thus the word "stunt") the bracket mounts can pull through the over time.

 

Note in the screen used example below where the screws pulled through the return edge (blue arrows) and had to be re-mounted by the prop crew on the rear using washers.  Not pretty, but effective for filming purposes.

 

nWgVaMy.jpg 

 

Not so attractive up close. ;)

AIFOdkA.jpg

 

Some have trooped for years using this method for years with no issues.  If you do decide to go this route I would suggest cutting some flat shims from your scrap ABS and gluing them in under the return edges in the areas where the brackets will go for added strength.

 

76kEOQK.jpg

 

An alternative would be to mount the screws only (for that classic strapping look) and use the nylon/elastic straps to actually hold the pieced in place.  It's a little extra work, but you get the best of both worlds.

 

Note in the above pics from Glen and Kyle that they used the double snap method.  Some folks have had success with using one at each join, but a single snap is much more likely to come undone.  Having two will help ensure you won't have any "wardrobe malfunctions" during a troop.  It's extra work and cost, but for peace of mind it's well worth it IMO.

 

Here is another example:

 

hifAgTB.jpg

I’m thinking I’ll probably go with snaps then.  If it helps the longevity of the kit and makes it a bit easier to pack/put on them that might be the best bet.  If that’s the case are there any recommended strapping pack kits or materials to use?

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52 minutes ago, N0SweatBobaFett said:

I’m thinking I’ll probably go with snaps then.  If it helps the longevity of the kit and makes it a bit easier to pack/put on them that might be the best bet.  If that’s the case are there any recommended strapping pack kits or materials to use?

I like using nylon strips, you can make the holes with a solder iron which reduces any snaps pulling out. Nylon also conforms to the armor unlike using plastic bases.

 

Joseph has a nice how to here 

 

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16 minutes ago, gmrhodes13 said:

I like using nylon strips, you can make the holes with a solder iron which reduces any snaps pulling out. Nylon also conforms to the armor unlike using plastic bases.

 

Joseph has a nice how to here 

 

Oh awesome!  That helps a ton!  I’m going to read though this then get the materials needed 

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On 7/1/2023 at 6:56 PM, gmrhodes13 said:

I like using nylon strips, you can make the holes with a solder iron which reduces any snaps pulling out. Nylon also conforms to the armor unlike using plastic bases.

 

Joseph has a nice how to here 

 

Thanks for the tutorial!  I made some straps with snaps today and it’s coming along nicely!  
 

RW9N32M.jpg

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Mocked up how I might glue the snaps and straps on.  I’ll probably space them out a little further than in the photo below, but just wanted to check to see if this looks good.  I also wanted to ask, since I’m not drilling holes into the return edge for the classic strapping method, should I trim the return edges more or leave them as is?  I was also wondering, even though I’m using snaps and elastics, should I be putting screws or rivets in for aesthetic purposes?  Thanks for all the help y’all!  
 

 

trK1bhO.jpg

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Screws are not required at any level so up to you if you want to add them.

 

I like to leave some return edge for strength

 pGpYqLi.jpg?1    ChdS8fG.jpg?1

 

Note the placement of the kidney/posterior elastic, having them closer to the ends stops the posterior wanting to come apart and leave a gap

R63O0di.jpg

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2 hours ago, N0SweatBobaFett said:

Mocked up how I might glue the snaps and straps on.  I’ll probably space them out a little further than in the photo below, but just wanted to check to see if this looks good.  I also wanted to ask, since I’m not drilling holes into the return edge for the classic strapping method, should I trim the return edges more or leave them as is?  I was also wondering, even though I’m using snaps and elastics, should I be putting screws or rivets in for aesthetic purposes?  Thanks for all the help y’all!  
 

 

trK1bhO.jpg

You may find as you kit up that the elastic could be too loose. I know on the straps from my kidney to the back I actually doubled up the elastic so it held it closer to the kidney, but I also made sure there was no space between the plastic edges and then determined where to glue the nylon.

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19 hours ago, FN1313 said:

You may find as you kit up that the elastic could be too loose. I know on the straps from my kidney to the back I actually doubled up the elastic so it held it closer to the kidney, but I also made sure there was no space between the plastic edges and then determined where to glue the nylon.

I see what you mean.  So it helps if the snaps on either end of the elastic are a little closer for the kidney plate to the back and kidney to butt plate?  And then I could use the longer ones for the kidney plate around the hips to the bottom front of the torso

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1 hour ago, N0SweatBobaFett said:

I see what you mean.  So it helps if the snaps on either end of the elastic are a little closer for the kidney plate to the back and kidney to butt plate?  And then I could use the longer ones for the kidney plate around the hips to the bottom front of the torso

Most areas I make them a touch shorter, especially the sides of the ab/kidney as that can take some strain to close fully.

 

Some of it is trial and error, I actually have a few pieces with multiple snaps applied so I can test gaps, I found it was easier to have these over the years as I've built a few kits over my time ;) 

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Yeah mine were also trial and error. My back and kidney originally ended up having a bit of a gap even when I thought I had them short, so I doubled up the elastic (for extra strength in the strain) and then shortened.


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In case you ever build another kit the curve is a little smaller than most tend to trim, shouldn't be an issue for approval though

 

gallery_12157_78_1344899.jpg

 

gallery_12157_59_55140.jpg

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22 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:

In case you ever build another kit the curve is a little smaller than most tend to trim, shouldn't be an issue for approval though

 

gallery_12157_78_1344899.jpg

 

gallery_12157_59_55140.jpg

Thanks!  I’d love to build another so I’ll make sure to keep that in mind.  I definitely went a little crazy with sanding the edges round haha

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