Jonathan's ANH TK Build

[JSchmit[TK]]

49 minutes ago, gmrhodes13 said:

Your images are very small so hard to make out a lot of details, you will need bigger images when you send in your application to your GML. Also best to take your photos inside on a blank contrasting background.

 

Thighs should come up a bit closer to the cod, tighter strapping may help, they are also at different heights.

 

Your left bicep is popping out under your shoulder bell in a few photos.

 

Looks like your detonator can come down on the belt.

 

Belt could come up too, for L3 

• The top of the ABS ammo belt should sit at or just above the bottom of the central and vertical abdomen button panels.

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks for that feedback! I only noticed the issues with the thighs after the picture was taken. I might try some suspenders to set the pieces better. I'll work on those suggestions and get some better pictures taken for reference.

[JSchmit[TK]]

I do have a quick question, come to think of it. What's the best way to raise the belt now that snaps have been set on the codpiece and belt. I know I've got a way to go before I start thinking about L3, but I just wanted to get an idea.

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

10 minutes ago, JSchmit said:

What's the best way to raise the belt now that snaps have been set on the codpiece and belt. 

Braces can help bring the belt up, I use nylon not elastic braces too as the elastic ones stretch quite a lot.

 

 

This is for a FOTK but similar

[FN1313[TK]]

I just have a heavy duty nylon belt from Amazon and then for extra support bought a set of heavy duty suspenders to help hold things up.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BGZ5PLS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


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[JSchmit[TK]]

I picked up some suspenders and foam for the shin and thigh pieces. This seemed to help with my placement issues. Note that in the pictures below, the foam for the bottom of the thigh had fallen out of place, causing the thigh to slightly fall in front of the knee. That issue should be fixed after that gets put back into place. I hope that these are better quality pictures:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

As always, any feedback is appreciated as I prepare for the process of GML approval!

[JSchmit[TK]]

Hey, everyone! I've haven't posted in awhile after I submitted pictures to my local GML, and I'm pleased to announce that they were approved! I'd like to thank you all for your help and guidance! I still have to submit for expanded access on FISD with my TK number.

 

Once I get more active in the organization, I plan to submit for higher approval levels. I do have one quick question, though. What are my options for an E-11? Are there any recommended vendors or anywhere else I can go through?

[Chemi[Staff]]

Congratulations Jonathan!!!

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Congratulations and welcome to the ranks trooper.

 

You can find  list of E-11 suppliers here. There are also some excellent 3D files is you have access to a printer 

 

[TKSpartan[Staff]]

Congratulations Trooper !!!  Welcome aboard  

[JSchmit[TK]]

On 8/30/2023 at 3:42 PM, gmrhodes13 said:

Congratulations and welcome to the ranks trooper.

 

You can find  list of E-11 suppliers here. There are also some excellent 3D files is you have access to a printer 

 

Are the blasters on this list approvable at all levels? I'm looking at the Imperial Arms 3-D model because it's currently available, but I see it has an orange cap on the barrel. I just want to make sure that's ok.

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

19 minutes ago, JSchmit said:

Are the blasters on this list approvable at all levels? I'm looking at the Imperial Arms 3-D model because it's currently available, but I see it has an orange cap on the barrel. I just want to make sure that's ok.

I've not been through every blaster to see if they meet L3 requirements. Ultimately it's up to the buyer to check those details and then entirely up to the DO's as they are the ones who look after the higher levels approvals @Deployment Officer Team

 

Note with any 3D blaster the L2 and above CRL specs are: 

• 3-D printed blasters can not contain visible print lines, and must be sanded smooth for a more realistic appearance.