Chachi Posted February 13, 2023 Report Posted February 13, 2023 Any tips or guidance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, John 1. John Alves 2. North County San Diego 3. Shepperton Studios 4. Shepperton Studios 5. Shepperton Studios 6. Shepperton Studios 7. Boot maker - Funtasm 9. Shepperton Studios 10. Shepperton Studios 11. 5'9 12. 180 lbs 13. TK type - ANH Stunt Quote
msouza[TK] Posted February 13, 2023 Report Posted February 13, 2023 Looks Great! The only I would do is to get rid of any return edge on the shoulder bells, It'll help them sit better on the biceps, also make sure you tuck the neck seat in before submittal photos. Quote
Chachi Posted February 13, 2023 Author Report Posted February 13, 2023 (edited) Thanks! I wondered where that fabric was from, the neck seal. Edited February 13, 2023 by gr8jedi Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted February 13, 2023 Report Posted February 13, 2023 There are a few issues with the SDS straight out of the box which don't meet basic approval, a couple of previous SDS pre approval threads with what needs addressing https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/47281-jayse01-requesting-pre-approval-review/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/47286-helotech-requesting-pre-approval-sds @Helotech's build thread with SDS updates https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/47323-helotech-sds-hero-build/ Quote
Chachi Posted February 13, 2023 Author Report Posted February 13, 2023 Thanks, checking out those links now. John Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted February 13, 2023 Report Posted February 13, 2023 Shoulder bridges should be glued down at the front, can see velcro. Belt needs to be fabric Thigh cover strips should stop above the lower ridges, not continue to the bottom. Rear thighs are overlapped and should be butt joined and cover strips. This is the same with the forearms and biceps, should be butt joined and coversrips Calves should cover outside over inside, your right leg is covering from inside over outside Blue on an plate buttons looks very dark, should be French Blue #14 Holster should not be held on by loops, should be short straps attached to lower section of belt. You do have a gap in the sides, ok for basic but would need to be reduced for higher levels. Shins on rear should close from the outside over the inside so the opening is not seen from the outside. Thigh ammo stop should not be curved on top, should be a straight corner, only curved on bottoms. Also looks like it is secured with screws in the bottom corners, should be attached in the top corners and on the lower ridge, should be held with cap rivets. Detonator clips too small Quote
Chachi Posted February 13, 2023 Author Report Posted February 13, 2023 Thanks for the response. Shoulder bridges should be glued down at the front, can see velcro. Remove velcro in front and glue. Free floating in back? Belt needs to be fabric Front is ok (Abs) what wraps around needs to be fabric (elastic) ? Thigh cover strips should stop above the lower ridges, not continue to the bottom. thigh cover strips lightly rounded before bottom? Answered below. Rear thighs are overlapped and should be butt joined and cover strips. so they "butt" together, then velcro is fine on the cover strip itself. This is the same with the forearms and biceps, should be butt joined and cover strips Same as above Calves should cover outside over inside, your right leg is covering from inside over outside Ok Blue on an plate buttons looks very dark, should be French Blue #14 Ok Holster should not be held on by loops, should be short straps attached to lower section of belt. Ok You do have a gap in the sides, ok for basic but would need to be reduced for higher levels. Ok Shins on rear should close from the outside over the inside so the opening is not seen from the outside. Ok Thigh ammo stop should not be curved on top, should be a straight corner, only curved on bottoms. Also looks like it is secured with screws in the bottom corners, should be attached in the top corners and on the lower ridge, should be held with cap rivets. Ok Detonator clips too small Ok Thanks for the tips. I now have a good list to start. John 1 Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted February 14, 2023 Report Posted February 14, 2023 Shoulder bridges should be glued down at the front, can see velcro. Remove velcro in front and glue. Free floating in back? Glue on front and you can have elastic on the back holding down. NOTE: As seen in the photos below, there are no large tabs on the rear of the shoulder bridges. This is not specifically mentioned in the CRL, but removing them is highly recommended if possible. Belt needs to be fabric Front is ok (Abs) what wraps around needs to be fabric (elastic) ? Front is ABS plastic, rest of belt (wrap around) needs to be fabric Drop boxes should be just under the belt, no large gaps on elastic Thigh cover strips should stop above the lower ridges, not continue to the bottom. thigh cover strips lightly rounded before bottom? Answered below. The cover strip needs to stop above the lower ridge No gaps between both halves, fill with ABS paste or Sugru Rear thighs are overlapped and should be butt joined and cover strips. so they "butt" together, then velcro is fine on the cover strip itself. All pieces, arms, biceps, thighs, front shins should be butt join and coverstrips glued, rear of shins are velcro. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/41251-butt-joint-and-cover-strip-method/ This is the same with the forearms and biceps, should be butt joined and cover strips Same as above OK Calves should cover outside over inside, your right leg is covering from inside over outside Ok OK Blue on an plate buttons looks very dark, should be French Blue #14 Ok OK Holster should not be held on by loops, should be short straps attached to lower section of belt. Ok OK https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/49928-anh-holsters-variants/ You do have a gap in the sides, ok for basic but would need to be reduced for higher levels. Ok OK Shins on rear should close from the outside over the inside so the opening is not seen from the outside. Ok OK Thigh ammo strip should not be curved on top, should be a straight corner, only curved on bottoms. Also looks like it is secured with screws in the bottom corners, should be attached in the top corners and on the lower ridge, should be held with cap rivets. Ok OK Also move down onto lower ridge, rivet @ 10mm from corner Detonator clips too small Ok OK - also screws should be black Quote
Chachi Posted February 14, 2023 Author Report Posted February 14, 2023 Thanks for the detailed input! John Quote
Chachi Posted February 14, 2023 Author Report Posted February 14, 2023 So basically I'll have to remove the velcro, trim the overlapping piece that the velcro was on , then butt the 2 pieces together and finish off with a strip of ABS. 1 inch wide? I'll use the same concept of modification to the thighs, forearms and biceps. Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted February 14, 2023 Report Posted February 14, 2023 That is correct. Cover strip widths Arms front and back 15mm Thighs front and back 20mm Shins front 20mm, rear 25mm Make sure you rough up all surfaces with some coarse sandpaper so the glue has something to grip too, E6000 is the best to use One of my commission builds for reference At times magnets, clamps and masking tape may be needed to get the pieces to lay flat. I normally leave E6000 for @ 24hrs, any pieces under strain I leave for 48 to 72hrs. Some great reference if you need them in our gallery sections Quote
Helotech[TK] Posted February 14, 2023 Report Posted February 14, 2023 Hey! For the calves (and other armor parts), make sure you don't trim all from one side of opening. You want to trim equally from both sides, and how much you trim depends on the size of your calves. I ended up with about 1/2" from the molded in raise area to the cut. I found the easiest way to cut is with a Dremel on slow to moderate speed, but this sends bits of plastic flying. Make sure you wear a mask and eye protection. Draw a line with a pencil and cut as straight as you can. You can also scribe and snap but this is harder because of the curves. These cut edges now butt up against one another. To make the cover strip, I used the rear part of the belt. You have to get rid of this anyways, so don't be afraid to cut it into strips. I'd suggest using this plastic as it is the same color of your armor, so a color shift with other white plastic won't be noticed. SDS armor has a very nice light cream tone, while other manufacturers almost use pure white. For the rear cover strip (25mm), measure exactly 12.5mm down the middle of the back side and draw a line with a pencil. Place some E6000 glue on one side of the line and clamp it to the correct piece of the calf. Make sure you clamp to the correct piece!!! The 12.5mm overhang now receives new velcro. Let me know if you need any more help. And good luck!!! 2 Quote
Helotech[TK] Posted February 14, 2023 Report Posted February 14, 2023 One other thing: I MAY have some small hardware bits (screws, rivets, etc) or extra leather for the holster. I'll check my spare parts box. Let me know if you can't source it when the time comes. 1 Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted February 14, 2023 Report Posted February 14, 2023 Follow Dave's @Helotech build and you can't go wrong, one of the best SDS update builds out there Quote
Chachi Posted February 15, 2023 Author Report Posted February 15, 2023 Thanks again for all of the detailed info. 1 Quote
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