FAC ANH Stunt TK Build

[Perry Combover]

It's BBB day in the Combover home and there is much rejoicing, especially on a 3 day weekend here in the US.

 

Undoubtedly I will have a ton of questions. First, where to start? Does it matter? The only advice I've seen so far is to start with the ab buttons so they'll have time to dry. What else?

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Great news, nothing better than BBB's.

 

Where do you start? have you researched?, research is the key, also measure twice and cut once and remember there are no stupid questions, only stupid mistakes from not asking.

 

A couple of great threads, full of info

Also when in doubt check the Gallery Sections 

 

Good luck, looking forward to seeing the progress

[MaskedVengeance[Staff]]

Very exciting indeed, and certainly perhaps overwhelming! Here are my thoughts on build order. First follow the Return Edges 101 thread that Glen linked to for initial trimming of the raw pieces. Be aware, too, that builders with a slim body May elect to leave more return edges on limb pieces for better fitment.

 

As far as assembly of butt-joined pieces, it’s generally recommended to get your feet wet with pieces of armor that are less prominent, such as the biceps, which have a portion significantly covered by the shoulder bells. You can also practice making your first cuts on the sides of the armor that will face your rear instead of front. Also note that the helmet is considered the most challenging component, so some save it for last.

 

1) Biceps (and always remember to wear your undersuit while fitting armor)

2) Forearms

3) Thighs (do your right side first for practice since the bottom seam will be covered by the thigh ammo pack)

4) Shins (do your left side first for practice since the top seam will be covered by your knee sniper plate). Be sure to wear your boots while fitting shins.

 

Torso and shoulder bells can be done any time, and you don’t necessarily need to rush to do the ab buttons since enamel paint really only takes a couple days to cure. In fact, I waited to paint them until the very end of my build after I had already mounted the ab button plate to the large ab piece. This enabled me to use magnets and clams on that piece without messing up the paint job, and also negated the risk of scuffing the paint while handing the torso pieces during fitment and assembly.

 

The belt can be done anytime but is most helpful after you’ve assembled the torso. Thermal detonator after the belt.

 

Hope this helps!

[Perry Combover]

Good stuff. Thank you both.

[Doggydoc[Staff]]

So exciting to get the BBB. Looking forward to your build thread. 

[Perry Combover]

Day one has been a trim fest. Since Cal has penciled in the trim lines, it's been pretty straight forward. 

 

The one hiccup I've had so far is the left side where the kidney and ab plates come together. If I trim where the trim lines are, the bottom will not line up. I know the CRL says that these 2 plates must align at the top, but it doesn't say anything about the bottom. Is this normal/acceptable? I know these kits are not symmetrical, but the right side doesn't have this issue.

[MaskedVengeance[Staff]]

On some kits the left side doesn’t match up initially and a notch can be cut to bring it into alignment and also flush with the posterior (butt) piece. I’m on my phone and can post a photo later at a computer, but you can do a search for kidney notch and get more info.

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

I wouldn't worry about it, Chris.  As long as the tops line up you are in good shape, especially since the right side lines up.  Besides, your ABS / canvas belts, drop box and holster should pretty much cover that entire area, but if not, don't sweat it.

 

GREAT start to your build thread, btw   I have a thread here which will help, but keep those questions and photos rolling in!

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

47 minutes ago, Perry Combover said:

Day one has been a trim fest. Since Cal has penciled in the trim lines, it's been pretty straight forward. 

 

The one hiccup I've had so far is the left side where the kidney and ab plates come together. If I trim where the trim lines are, the bottom will not line up. I know the CRL says that these 2 plates must align at the top, but it doesn't say anything about the bottom. Is this normal/acceptable? I know these kits are not symmetrical, but the right side doesn't have this issue.

References, screen suits had a notch on the bottom

 

 

Also make sure you fit to your body before using the trim lines just to make sure you are not cutting off too much.

[Perry Combover]

Perfect. Thank you!

[Perry Combover]

So I drilled a relief hole and cut myself a notch.


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[Perry Combover]

Here it is with the butt plate.

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[Perry Combover]

Getting ready to trim the chest, but I'm not liking the neck trim line. It doesnt show very well in the photo, but it is rather lopsided. Is that one of those irregularities that "gives it character" or does it need straightening? If so, do I free hand it or is there a mor reliable method?

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[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

23 minutes ago, Perry Combover said:

Getting ready to trim the chest, but I'm not liking the neck trim line. It doesnt show very well in the photo, but it is rather lopsided. Is that one of those irregularities that "gives it character" or does it need straightening? If so, do I free hand it or is there a mor reliable method
 

Not something that's really come up very often, all depends on the makers sculp, movie armor was not perfectly symmetrical.

 

A couple of references, which do look a little off sided to me

 

 

[TikiTechie[TK]]

2 hours ago, Perry Combover said:

it is rather lopsided

I have the FAC kit and the neck did seem lopsided to me as well. I've not been able to determine if that's entirely normal or not, the bottom of the chest plate is also most definitely lopsided, but that appears to be accurate to reference photos I've seen.   In most photos I have seen, the top of the front neck opening rides high enough that your helmet should cover it. 

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

For the neck opening, I would trim to about where the blue line is.  You can use a razor knife to score and snap it or use tin snips/ABS scissors.  I would then use a Dremel to trim down to the yellow line, as you have more control.  You should have a some return edge in that area (see reference pic) for strength and to prevent cracks.

 

 

 

[Perry Combover]

Awesome. Thanks everyone. It's good to have some coaching to know when to shut off the OCD side of my brain. 

[MaskedVengeance[Staff]]

And lest there ever be any doubt, Joseph is prime OCD material, which I can also relate to.  So rest assured his advice is always actionable. Glen’s too!

[BAZINGA[TK]]

When in OCD lock it is best to ask another OCD person I have found.  They can usually clear that blockage if you are willing to listen to them!

 

Bart

[Perry Combover]

Wrapping up a productive weekend with the torso all trimmed and sanded. How does this look so far? I couldn't have done it without all your help. Having a frame that is just right for a 70s TK was a big help too. Cal's trim lines wouldn't work great if I was 10 lbs heavier.

This week I'll get to strapping this up since I'm certain the blue tape isn't in the CRL. I'm sure I'll have a lot more questions since this is entirely uncharted territory for me. Cal included a kit, so that should help a little. Onward.

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[TikiTechie[TK]]

Looking good, nice work!

[Perry Combover]

I decided to hold off on strapping until I can study up on methods a little more. Instead, I'm starting on the shins. In the 90s, I installed glass for a living, so I'm no stranger to scoring and snapping. I dug to the bottom of my tool box and found my old glass pliers. Much to my satisfaction, they work very well for this kind of work.

Also, can you tell that I'm into overkill? And Harbor Freight for that matter.

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[Perry Combover]

Ok, I'm stuck.

The MC armor is designed for either overlap or cover strip construction. Of course if you need to go bigger, there is a large ridge that the cover strip won't cover, or the cover strip will have to be gigantic. The forearms are the first parts that have been too small for me. Help?

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[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Really depends on how much extra room you need, larger covers strips are acceptable, many try to add larger coverstrips to the rear of pieces as these are not mostly seen by the public, others split the widths between back and front. On some occasions some have had to add shims to pieces like thighs as they just can't achieve the right look.

 

A thread on the subject

 

 

 

 

[Perry Combover]

That's great info. Thank you.

I guess the expanded question is, does the raised area (for overlap construction) need to be covered by the cover strip or is an extra ridge as show in the photo acceptable?

It seems like that would really limit the customer base for MC armor since any increased size at all would require an unusually large cover strip.

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