Maeander500 ANH TK Stunt build (MTK)

[maeander500[TK]]

I've almost completed my TK build (I hope) but had a few questions and am hoping for feedback about what I've done so far.

 

Armor maker - MTK Armory

Helmet maker - MTK Armory

Cloth belt maker - TrooperBay

Neck seal maker - OEM from Amazon
Boot maker - Imperial Boots
Blaster maker - Blaster-Master (Raymond Hebert) 3-D printed E-11 Uber
TK type - ANH Stunt

 

Parts

 

Forearms

 

Thigh

 

Ab Plate

 

Thermal Detonator

 

Arms/Legs

 

Full Armor - No helmet

 

I'll post photos with areas I have questions about tomorrow.

Edited January 12, 2023 by maeander500
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[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Looking forward to seeing more photos so we can advise on how you are traveling. If ever in doubt we have an excellent gallery section full of references  

[TKSpartan[Staff]]

great progress Matt, let us know all your questions . We are here to help.  

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Some feedback for you.

 

You will need to drop your forearms at the wrists as you have a big gap there, it will also give you a bit more room at the elbows. Also the drop boxes should align with the end of the plastic belt, looks like they may be a little inwards in this image.

 

Looking forward to seeing any other images, or if you are finished and ready to seek GML approval you can post in our pre approval area, good way of getting feedback before contacting your GML  

[maeander500[TK]]

I lowered the right and left arm/forearms to reduce the gap between the forearm and the hand plates/wrist area.

 

Here are photos of the full assembly.

 

 

            

 

    

 

 

 

I want to trim the shoulder straps in the back, but would like input about where to cut these. The right is a bit longer than the left in the back. I'm thinking of cutting these along the red lines in the image below. Thoughts/suggestions?

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Looking better, although I think you are still too close at the elbows, biceps are just about to come out (or will do with movement) under your shoulder bells). I would increase the gap at the elbows and bring the biceps up, you will thank me when you start trooping and waving your arms around  

 

References show no large tabs on the back of shoulder straps BUT also check how many tabs you have on the front, usually it's one large and 4 to 5 small tabs, although not in the CRL.

 

     

 

TD could come down on the belt too, you may achieve this by bending downwards on the clips 

 

    

 

 

Also when taking photos just watch the drop box positions and sides abdomen/kidney, should be level  

 

Also for higher levels the corners of the plastic belt angles should meet the fabric belt  

• The corners of the plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed at a 45 degree angle that that meets the outer edge of the cloth belt.

 

[MaskedVengeance[Staff]]

Great to see your photos, Matt! In addition to what Glen mentioned, you may also consider removing or thinning whatever padding you have in the top of your helmet. Your helmet is riding a bit high relative to your shoulders, as compared to on-screen TKs. One of the images that Glen posted showing the shoulder bridges also shows helmet placement.

[maeander500[TK]]

I removed the elastic strapping between the upper arm and forearm pieces on both sides and reglued new strips with more separation between the upper arm and forearm pieces. How are we looking now? slight discrepancy right vs. left. Acceptable or redo? If redo, suggestions for making sure they are the same length?

 

 

I rotated the TD clips to move the TD further down on the belt. Too far? Or does it look okay? On most of the movie images, you don't really see the clips, so I'm wondering if the diameter of the TD I was sent is too small. Or acceptable? The butt plate gapes a little on both sides (front and back images show it). Suggestions for constraining it (warm bath/heat gun to mold to better shape)?

 

 

[MaskedVengeance[Staff]]

Hi Matt! Great job on those arm adjustments! On your right arm the spacing looks very even between the bicep-forearm and forearm-hand plate. Your left forearm is a little lower, as you pointed out, but sometime than can be an illusion based on how you have your wrist angled. For example, bending your wrist up closes the gap, and bending down opens it. For now you can probably leave it.

 

The general idea with thermal detonators is for their profile to fit within the span of the belt, which you've accomplished. As for the size of your det, you are correct in your evaluation that it may be a bit small. Screen-used dets were 68mm in diameter, as they were produced in the UK, but most dets available in the use are of US (imperial) plumbing sizes--more specifically, 2-inch inner diameter. That being said, both sizes are approvable. I write a lot more on this topic in my several thermal detonator posts, and list which armor makers have which sizes. Yes, I'm a little obsessed, and I still have two more detonator posts to write up!

 

As for your posterior/butt piece, I'd stay away from a heat gun, since that plastic is so thin and could quickly warp. I reformed mine a bit using a hot water bath.

 

And just an observation if you'll be seeking higher levels of approval: the larger tabs on the ends of your shoulder bridges (on the backside only!) will need to be trimmed off. You can either trim them off completely or simply chop them in half so that they appear the same size as all the other smaller ridges.

 

Hope this helps!

[maeander500[TK]]

Thank you for your input, Glenn and Caleb. Very much appreciated.

 

And congrats on your approval, Caleb. Your TK kit is awesome! Very clean.

 

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

5 hours ago, maeander500 said:

Thank you for your input, Glenn and Caleb. Very much appreciated.

Drop that extra N I work for a living it's "Glen" 

 

I would perhaps roll the TD up a little so not as much clip is showing, you don't need to see as much of the top as long as the O can be seen.

 

         

 

There are a few makers who use smaller pipe sizes than screen so it is hard to get a perfect look, ATA, AP and MTK all have smaller tubes. 

 

 

[maeander500[TK]]

Hey Glen and Caleb,  thank you for your additional input. My apologies to you, Glen, about the extra "N". I can be taught.

 

Changes I have made include:

1) Raised the TD back up a bit on the belt (Too high again?).

2) Trimmed the back of the shoulder bridges and evened them so they are about the same length in the back.

3) Used hot water bath to narrow the width of the butt plate so it doesn't protrude past the kidney plates on the sides.

4) Removed some of the padding in the helmet so it doesn't ride as high on my head.

5) Reglued the elastic between the shoulder and forearm pieces to even the shoulder-elbow spacing, left vs. right.

6) Added E11 holster

 

Hoping to submit soon. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

       

 

     

 

 

 

[Chemi[Staff]]

Hi Matt.

If you raise the belt a little(not necessary for L1, but I see that you take care of the details), it will be perfect!

                                 

                                                                                                                                                                                              Reference images

                                

 

 

Some small details (higher levels) would be missing, such as "The corners of the plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed at a 45 degree angle that that meets the outer edge of the cloth belt", or "Drop boxes are vertically aligned with the end of the ammo belt with minimal gap between belt and box. ". I am telling you this because I am sure we will see your application for EI and Centurion soon.

[Nairy[Staff]]

Great job on that armor Matt!! 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Nice work, I'd have no issues approving you  

[Sly11[Admin]]

Nice clean build Matt, should be an easy pass.

[Doggydoc[Staff]]

Looks good Matt. Hope to see EIB and  centurion applications next.