ANH Stunt "fitting/adjustment" thread (AP)

[BAZINGA[TK]]

I really hesitated to do this as I'm not actually doing the build.  AP did the commission building and I'm just in the stage of fitting now.  I knew there would need to be fitting/strapping adjustments going in but as I'm not an armor builder expert that worried me quite a bit. A LOT.  I've now made a few modifications and got past the initial rush of anxiety it brought so I feel more confident I can tackle the next round.  Please be gentle and remember that I get easily overwhelmed if I try to tackle multiple parts at the same time.   I'm just worried about the basics now.  No confusion with L2 and L3 please unless something I am doing for basic also improves it for higher levels.  I'll start posting up photos of my progress in the next few hours along with my questions.

 

Also note that I have been sharing pics with some other TKs in Badlands Garrison but due to December being such a busy month it hasn't been possible yet to get together for a good fitting and photos.  Basically I've been at this myself contorting to get things on and photos at awkward angles.

 

And DON'T MIND THE BUBBLE WRAP.  That chest piece got handled a lot and I figured no point in taking it off just to scuff it all up.  Pretend it is a new TK actionn figure still in the box.  New.  Collectable.  OK, stay tuned.

 

Bart

[BAZINGA[TK]]

This was the first hurtle.  I had a chest that was way high and a right side overlap.

 

 

 

So the first thing I did was make the tongue and groove thing for the right side as that was all internal and I did get to see an example in person so it seemed like a good place to start with the least amount of nerves in the way.

 

 

With the right side "fix" in I then got up the nerve to deal with the chest straps and that also turned out with minimal stress figuring it out.  Now the chest seems decently positioned, it isn't digging into the front of my neck and I think a bit of adjustment on the right side strap will remove the rest of the gap.

 

 

I will adjust the snaps on the back plate now to remove a good portion of this gap (hopefully).  Seems they would need to move about 3/4 of an inch to an inch.  I haven't started this yet.

 

I also think I might need to bend the bottom part of the butt plate up just a bit for comfort.  The corner edges seem to dig into my legs a bit right now.

 

The torso, though, is very close to fitting correctly I think.

 

Bart

[BAZINGA[TK]]

That brought me to the arms.  How on earth anyone can get into this without help is currently beyond me.  It took a lot of creative movement to snap in the arm to the shoulder.  I couldn't do the other side by myself.

 

So no adjustments and this is what we have (oh God, ignore the gut):

 

 

I can't bend my arm much as is:

 

 

Once I start trying to fit it to where the bicep, I think, should go, I see these things:

 

 

Elastic that goes around the bicep is too loose and the strap holding the bicep up needs to move WAY up on the bell.  When I make that move it lets me bend my arm and it looks better tucked under the bell:

 

 

But far too much elastic.  I think I need to cut off about 2 inches:

 

 

So my plan of attack here, after doing more looking and figuring, is to shorten the elastic on the bell that goes around the bicep and make it look like it is straight across with no droop.  Then raise up the snap in the bell so better position the bicep.  I think the bicep inner top should be at the top of the elastic strap.  The forearm seems to ride fine.  Does this seem like a logical course of action?

 

Bart

[revlimiter[Staff]]

Tape, my friend. Tape.

 

Tape that plastic together and then to your body. Then do your best to recreate/preserve the tape positioning (once you're happy with it) via strapping and elastic. Painters tape works great.  Stick it all over the top of the armor and make a mess, but get things lined up correctly. Ideally there wouldn't be any tape on the inside where the strapping would go so that you can cut and install the strapping most easily whilst the tape is still attached and holding things in place.

 

Start with the chest, which looks to be about right on you in the above pix, then tape a shoulder bell to the shoulder bridge. The edge of the bridge should ideally touch the edge of the bell for centurion, so make them touch with the tape. Then apply the bicep and add some tape. It should be positioned so that you can fully bend your arm while wearing the forearm armor.

 

The forearm and bicep should have a little less than an inch between them. The bicep to forearm gap should be about equal to the forearm to hand guard gap. Slide the forearm around till you've got that about equal and add some tape. The add the elastic behind.

 

Does that help at all?

 

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

If you have skinny arms (like me) you can add some foam inside pieces like forearms, biceps, thighs, to help them stay central to your body.

 

Tighter strapping on your biceps a definite. Biceps look like they could come up a little too which will give you a little more room at your elbows.

 

Many can put on all armor pieces, some can't, usually depends on how long your arms are as well as length of the armor pieces.

 

Note drop boxes should align with the end of the plastic belt, many add a drop of E6000 glue to the straps behind the belt to hold them in that position.

 

Depending on how the cod/ butt plate sit you may need to bring the armor upwards a little, Luke's chest overlaps his ab plate at times, just depends on your height and how the armor sits

 

 

 

 

[BAZINGA[TK]]

So does it all make sense you ask?  Yes and no.  I had the unexpected chance today to check out the arms of another TK and my thoughts on the elastic in the bells in relation to the bicep seems correct as does my estimation on how much elastic needs to come out of that bell that straps around the bicep.  I am not feeling that much, if any, foam is needed in the forearm.  The bicep might need a minimal amount, but the jury is still out on that one.  I did have her look at it on my arm and she made similar adjustments to what I had guessed.  She thought the proportions seemed correct a the elbow and the wrist.  Remember I've proposed no forearm strap correction yet so I have wiggle room in that regard for some up/down.

 

The top of the bell, IMO does mate up nice with the shoulder strap.  Right against I'd say.    I didn't think it sat high or low too forward or too back and if that could be the stable piece in this three piece adjust that would certainly be the ideal piece for that.

 

The drop boxes some days are correct, other days not.  Seems to depend on how I'm standing on my head while trying to get a photo, but if they aren't right by the end of all of this adjusting that seems like the easy fix.

 

Taping it onto me then trying to get out of it and duplicate it.  Yeah, maybe if I were 30 years younger.  haha.  I'm lucky to get into it and out of it as it is without the help of a wall to balance myself with.  I think I am on the right track, just more fiddle that I don't enjoy doing, but I think I can do it.  I'm going to start with the elastic tomorrow night as that is the easy one then figure out the new position of the strap to bring up the bicep.  I also think I am going to add the hooks to the bicep as another straight-forward tweak.  Keep in mind I'm not making straps.  It's pre-built.  I am moving strap points and regluing not starting from scratch.

 

The cod piece feels about right for position.  It's up in there, but no so up in there that is uncomfortable.  The under-part on the butt plate could stand to bend up just a tad as it seems to dig into my legs as is.  That is just going to be hot water fix.  Hopefully that is possible with the snaps in place???

 

Doing one type of fix at a time keeps me from getting in over my head.  The back plate is currently drying from the snap move on it to bring it down as is the right side strap to close up that gap.  That means tonight nothing more happens until tomorrow when I start work on the arms.  I look at pictures tonight until I'm blurry eyed of arms to prep for tomorrow.  It's not fast.

 

Bart

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

To keep the bicep from dropping down and give you a little more room/flexibility at the elbow, I would suggest adding in interior black nylon strap with at least one snap on each side of the shoulder bell and bicep. 

 

[BAZINGA[TK]]

Yes it has that already.  I will need to reposition it though as the bicep drops way to low out of the bell (right out of it actually) I also added the hooks on the biceps tonight.  I'm feeling more comfortable now about ungluing snaps and reposition things and general stuff that you experts do without giving  a second thought to it  I think I have conquered the right side overlap and the small top gap now too.  With any luck the arms are fitting nice by Wednesday then I can start to work on the legs if required.  Test fit on those seems good as it for inside diameter.  I'll know this week what the next steps have to be.   I sent an unofficial goal of January to have it fitting correctly for basic so crossing my fingers.  Bart

[ABS80]

On 12/4/2022 at 4:35 PM, gmrhodes13 said:

If you have skinny arms (like me) you can add some foam inside pieces like forearms, biceps, thighs, to help them stay central to your body.

 

Tighter strapping on your biceps a definite. Biceps look like they could come up a little too which will give you a little more room at your elbows.

 

Many can put on all armor pieces, some can't, usually depends on how long your arms are as well as length of the armor pieces.

 

Note drop boxes should align with the end of the plastic belt, many add a drop of E6000 glue to the straps behind the belt to hold them in that position.

 

Depending on how the cod/ butt plate sit you may need to bring the armor upwards a little, Luke's chest overlaps his ab plate at times, just depends on your height and how the armor sits

 

 

 

 

I concur with rubber foam strips, I use it on my costume it does miracles, and helps keep everything in place and the foam actually grabs to the under suit and helps keep everything in place.  Buy the weather strip rubber foam at home depot  you just peel and stick in all around arms and legs.

Edited December 6, 2022 by ABS80

[BAZINGA[TK]]

I have the foam at the ready.  I have already added strips to the ab area to keep anything from squishing in too far.  

 

Can I safely boil the "butt crack" piece with the 2 snaps to bend it a bit more upwards to match the cod piece?  It kind of digs into my legs as it is now but if I move it a bit by hand it seems to fit better.  It might need to bend 1/2 but I don't want to do it if there will be a issue or danger with those two snaps as they'd be going in the pot too.  Bart

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

4 hours ago, Bartman said:

Can I safely boil the "butt crack" piece with the 2 snaps to bend it a bit more upwards to match the cod piece?  It kind of digs into my legs as it is now but if I move it a bit by hand it seems to fit better.  It might need to bend 1/2 but I don't want to do it if there will be a issue or danger with those two snaps as they'd be going in the pot too.  Bart

 

Before boiling anything, can you post up a pic or two of the posterior plate and tab area similar to the angle seen below?

 

[BAZINGA[TK]]

Here are a couple photos.  For comfort I want to heat the tab and bend it a bit upwards, but it has snaps in it so if boiling it is going to cause a problem then I will need to leave it and just live with it digging into my legs.  It may require some adjusting for butt flare too, but I won't know for a bit yet on that.

 

Bart

 

 

 

 

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

Boiling water should not affect the snaps, but what I would be concerned about is the corner as shown below in the second photo.  When you bend ABS the stress has to go somewhere, and sharp angled corners (especially those with return edges) are where issues (cracks) begin.  Before making any adjustments I would remove the remaining small return edge (yellow line), being sure the the corner is rounded out somewhat.

I have a thread here which will give you a little more information on the subject, and looking forward to seeing the results!

 

                                                                                                                                                                                                 Example (screen used armor).

              

[BAZINGA[TK]]

Oh boy.  I can see that going sideways for me pretty quick when I start cutting.  Bart

[revlimiter[Staff]]

That sort of return edge is easily fixed with a dremel and sanding drum. Be careful to not go past the edge, but yeah, it'll just zip right off.  Quick motions in a straight line will make the dremeling as flat/smooth as possible. Once you're done and happy with it, get out the 200 grit sandpaper and it'll smooth out to flat very quickly.

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

Adam is absolutely spot-on with that advice.  Using a Dremel is the easiest way to remove the excess, but do it a little at a time until you get where you need to be.  Using the sandpaper will remove any burrs and give you a nice smooth edge.

[BAZINGA[TK]]

I'll see if I can find someone who knows what they are doing to remove it.  I do not have the fine motor skills to use a dremel and expect to have something usable at the end of it all.  I didn't intend to do this kind of work that's why I bought ready-to-wear.  If I had those skills I'd have just built the armor myself.  Thanks for letting me know that it can't remain this way though.  Bart

[BAZINGA[TK]]

Moving onto something I can probably safely cut myself.  What is the best for these pokey strip parts on the thighs?  I'm assuming they should be trimmed down but as you can see from front to back the cut path maybe isn't so simple.

 

 

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

I know a lot of folks like the "thicker" look that return edges provide, but in order to get the top(s) to look decent it will require removing the return edge and the top of the cover strip.  Keep in mind that most screen used thighs had very little of a lip on the front and none at all in the rear.  Many of us remove all the return edge for comfort and reduce the possibility of "armor bite" (pinching) and chafing.  This thread may help.

 

   

 

                                                     

[BAZINGA[TK]]

I'll see if I can find someone who can cut it straight.  Thanks.  Bart

[BAZINGA[TK]]

I'm back to fitting the arms as they seem the closest to getting acceptable.  I added the hooks on the biceps as it seemed to be the thing to do from what I have observed on two sets of armor in person.  The moving of the strap up in the bell and the hook seems to set the bicep correctly in the shoulder from photos I've looked at.  The strap between the bicep and the forearm though looks to be too short.  The forearm is not centred on my arm as it should be.  That is an elastic snap system and there isn't enough room to move the snaps to create, by the looks of things, a good 2 inches so I am going to go with a permanent elastic glued in which I understand from others is not uncommon.  Trying to tape the forearm to get an idea of space the gap seems large but maybe it really isn't compared to everyone else and the CRL photo.  Is there a calculation to figure out how this should be or just centre the forearm and go from there?  

 

I do believe there will need to be some padding in the forearm to centre it on the girth of my forearm but I am just trying to get the total arm length correct then worry about the padding.

 

I also feel the shoulder will need to rotate a bit more forward but, again, I want to get the length correct then have a second set of eyes on me when I am fitting to figure out the shoulder adjustment if required.

 

One step at a time.  So, am I on track for doing the forearm or is there something else I am missing that needs to be done?

 

Bart

 

 

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Forearms are way to far up your arm, you should have equal gaps between the bicep and forearm also the forearm and glove handplates.

Here's a couple of centurion pics for arm gap examples

 

 

 

You also have some pretty sharp edges on your cover strips these are normally either nipped off or rounded off so they don't catch when you are moving

 

Here are a few images from the gallery section on cover strip corners

 

Also note your drop boxes should be inline with the end of the plastic belt section

 

        

 

 

[BAZINGA[TK]]

Yes I know they are too high.  That is the problem I'm currently trying to correct.  I'm going to try and drop the bicep about an inch then replace the snap/elastic that is there between the bicep and the forearm with just elastic and add about an inch to and inch and a half to the existing measurement to move it down my arm.  Does this all seem like a logical plan?

 

Reminder.  I didn't build this and I'm not going to rip everything apart to try and change how it was done for the cover strips.  I sanded off the sharp edges the best I could so they feel fairly smooth when I run my finger along the edge.  Currently I don't care about the drop boxes, those are the least of my worries.  I'm just working on getting the arms to fit correctly then I will move onto the next round of problems.  If I try and address all the problems at once it will never get finished as I'll give up on it.  It's "Ready to wear" commission.  I'm doing what I can do.  I am not an armor builder.  Didn't want to be.  Just trying to do the best I can do with a non-existent armor building skill set.

 

Bart

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

 

17 minutes ago, Bartman said:

I'm going to try and drop the bicep about an inch then replace the snap/elastic that is there between the bicep and the forearm with just elastic and add about an inch to and inch and a half to the existing measurement to move it down my arm.  Does this all seem like a logical plan?

Bicep could come down but really depends where it wants to sit naturally as the bicep hooks will stop them coming down to far, NOTE not all had these. I have long arms and I removed my bicep hooks as they kept the biceps up too high. Once you drop your bicep then even out the spacing between bicep and forearm then forearm and handplates. 

[BAZINGA[TK]]

I put in the hooks but have removed the one on the arm I'm currently working on as I don't think it is doing much in terms of where it wants to sit.  Tomorrow night the glue will be dry and I will have a bicep that is about an inch lower (like it is in the photo as you can see I unhooked it so that position but held with the snap strap)  I'm trying to come up with a way to centre the forearm but think I might just need to tape in the elastic and see how it looks then keep taping and retaping to hit the midway point.  I believe the outside elbow edge of the forearm should completely miss touching the bicep when my arm is hanging straight down.  I've been looking at a lot of pictures trying to devise a plan.  Bart