FN1313’s ANH Stunt Build thread

[FN1313[TK]]

SHOULDERS

 

In terms of work to be done on the shoulders themselves there really isn’t a lot with these AM 5.0 kits from Dave.

I did trim the return edge off though, so here’s a before and after comparison to see the trim. From here I will update this area more when I get to the strapping of the shoulders.

 

[FN1313[TK]]

I also wanted to highlight the bezel process I did for the cover strip. I followed information from a couple of posts
First this guide although using older AM armor Ukswrath does a fantastic job highlighting the build process. 
 

Ukswrath’s AM 1.0 Build

 

Then this comment for the cover strips themselves

 

Essentially I’ve trimmed the corners off and then I used a razor edge to bezel the outside edges. Attached below is a photo of the angle to hold the razor to the edge and then slide it back and forth to chisel the bezel into the plastic. 

 

 

Here’s a picture of example bezels on a strip. This strip is nasty looking because it was a test strip I used to make sure I did things right before doing the official strips

 

[TKSpartan[Staff]]

[FN1313[TK]]

Shoulder strap retaining strips on the biceps.

We need two strips that are about 150mm in length or 5 29/32 inches

and 15mm in width or 19/32 inches

 

Then we need to one end on both mark points at 20mm (25/32 inches), 50mm (1 31/32 inches), and 90mm (3 9/16 inches).

 

 

Holding a piece of wood a little wide of the mark on both sides to focus the heat from your heat gun turn heat on the area about 2 -3 inches away and heat for 9-10 seconds (more and I found with my gun the plastic is likely to warp a bit more (you’ll see in one of my strips)

 

From there you’ll need to bend the 20mm length fully around to make a clip, the 50mm end bends backward about 45 degrees, and the 90mm length bends forward about 15-20 degrees.

 

 

From here I sanded the corners of the clip parts so they weren’t sharp and wouldn’t catch on anything.

 

 

 

These we then will install to the inner under arm section of the bicep. (See the bicep build section to see this in action)
 

 

Edited March 18, 2023 by FN1313

[FN1313[TK]]

And while I had been working on all of these things my canvas belt and leather holster I ordered from Trooperbay arrived.

 

 

 

I’m not sure how the belt will fit after I get the armor on, but on my normal waist it was large. I will worry about that later though when I can verify with armor.

[FN1313[TK]]

Test fitting of forearms with gloves and undershirt






Glad I went with the smaller size in the cuts I made I debated, but this fits perfect.


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[FN1313[TK]]

Finished the outer cover strips of the biceps and did a test fitting with undershirt of the biceps and forearms

 

 

Everything feels so much more comfortable than I expected from a TK.

[Sly11[Admin]]

Nice work Kyle, hope those sock form part of you troop kit

[FN1313[TK]]

Nice work Kyle, hope those sock form part of you troop kit

I’m planning on getting a few like that for it haha


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[FN1313[TK]]

I noticed the shins have differing depths at the top and wanted to make sure which halves go together




Should both shins have a deep groove and small groove? If so which side does deep go, inside shin or outside?

If not which shin has both deep and which has both small?

I’m guessing that the deep groove is outside of thigh as I’m seeing a faint mark in the back that would suggest where a return edge at one point existed in the molds.

Below would be left shin. Deep groove point out to my left.




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[TKSpartan[Staff]]

15 minutes ago, FN1313 said:

I noticed the shins have differing depths at the top and wanted to make sure which halves go together




Should both shins have a deep groove and small groove? If so which side does deep go, inside shin or outside?

If not which shin has both deep and which has both small?


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Try to place the shins like the bellow image . The concave section goes to the inside of the shins.

 

 

[FN1313[TK]]

 
 
Try to place the shins like the bellow image . The concave section goes to the inside of the shins.
 

 

I see it now. I had read that before but couldn’t see it until now.


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[FN1313[TK]]

Also starting the trimming work on the thighs. They are way to tall for my thighs so I will have to trim them down from the top edge.

Currently I’m starting with 3/4 inch, but I’m sure I will need to go at least another 1/2 inch




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[FN1313[TK]]

One more question,

Shin return edge up top, how much do I need to keep around, do my pencil lines seem reasonable.?


They aren’t comfortable at all in back and I know I can make trims to the mobility cuts, but I will do that after sizing so I wondered what I could trim from that return edge so I can adequately size them and then finish up mobility etc.


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[Chemi[Staff]]

hace 15 minutos, FN1313 dijo:

Currently I’m starting with 3/4 inch, but I’m sure I will need to go at least another 1/2 inch

 

 

Hi Kyle.  I agree with you. Trim little by little. Patience is very important.

 

 

                                                                                      Reference images

               

[FN1313[TK]]

Alright I’ve done some trimming on one of the thighs.

So I have taken 2.5 inches off the top of the left thigh and it’s mostly right. I do want to verify that a trim like this is okay as the only spot still not comfortable enough is the top of the front. Not sure how mobile I should be and if that curve should follow my joint or go over it



Disregard,

I looked at more reference photos and see that the groove generally runs along the joint.

I’ve made that change as well as found information on the return edges for the thighs and the calves.

Where my legs are larger it’s hard to estimate where to build armor prior to actually cutting return edges and all, so this is the reason why I’ve trimmed return edges first and then will be sizing and fitting before glue.
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[TKSpartan[Staff]]

13 hours ago, FN1313 said:

Also starting the trimming work on the thighs. They are way to tall for my thighs so I will have to trim them down from the top edge.

Currently I’m starting with 3/4 inch, but I’m sure I will need to go at least another 1/2 inch




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before trimming, It would be good if we can see how they look on your thighs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[FN1313[TK]]

 
before trimming, It would be good if we can see how they look on your thighs.
 
 
 
 
 
 

I didn’t get any pictures prior to trimming, but the basic appearance was the bottoms hung down below my knees by about an inch, so taking off the 2.5 inches brought them to a bit above my knee so I could actually bend it. I compared how they looked on me along with the ab plate and saw they look similar to some of the centurion approved members I saw in the centurion approval forums.

I”m going to quickly get a picture.


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[FN1313[TK]]

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[FN1313[TK]]

Boots and neck seal just arrived from KeepTrooping (formerly Imperial Boots)







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[TKSpartan[Staff]]

It could be my eyes or the photo angle but it looks like you have enough room in the lower section of the thighs , If so, I would suggest to adjust a little to get a better shape (Triangle not squared ) 

Could you check this out ?

 

 

 

 

                                                                                

 

Reference

 

 

 

[FN1313[TK]]

It could be my eyes or the photo angle but it looks like you have enough room in the lower section of the thighs , If so, I would suggest to adjust a little to get a better shape (Triangle not squared ) 
Could you check this out ?
 

 
 
 
                                                                                
 
Reference

 
 
 

Yeah right now the backs are just blue taped together best I could get, but I saw that and will make adjustments once I get there. I just needed to adjust the height and return edges to even get to the point I could figure those things out.


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[FN1313[TK]]

THIGHS

Alright, so the first thing I noticed with the thighs is there’s plenty of length in the Dave’s Darkside Depot AM kits. Smart, for troopers of all sizes to use and adapt. That being said I’m not the tallest trooper, and my thighs are very large for my height.

What’s more is the sharp angle of the thighs was not allowing me to have much movement at all as the upper curve was digging into my hips and groin any time I’d try to lift my leg. I knew I’d have to adapt the thighs then to follow the curve of my joint a bit more so I could even have a chance to move in the armor.

So the first thing I did was I removed all but 10mm from the return edge of the center line. Thigh strips are 20mm so 10mm per side.



I could then put them together in the front like they should be to know how they should fit there. As you can see below the high angle curve that I was talking about.


So I first removed the top return edge, and know I’d need to take it down some I removed 3/4 inch from the top.



I also trimmed some of the return edge around the bottom based on other images of return edges on the thighs I’ve been looking into.


Now that I had this I could better size around my thighs and determine how much more to remove. This process went 3/4 inch (initially), 1/2 inch, 3/4 inch, 1/2 inch. I ended up removing a grand total of 2.5 inches before I could size them around my thighs and be able to comfortably move in them.
 
Marking and trimming from inside out is best

 

 
I wish I had longer legs because I do really like the long leg thigh, but alas we deal with what we are dealt.
 
You can see here some of the angle adjustment I made so I could actually bend my leg without getting gouged in the groin/hip every time.

 


 
It’s not perfect yet as I haven’t yet formed how the angle from the top to the bottom will go. But based on my legs I’d expect I won’t be trimming much off the back of the top thighs and will trim a better chunk from the bottom.
 
This will help fix the kingdom hearts shorts look and make it look more angled toward my knees. 
 
I’ve also added an inner cover strip to the front of the thighs and started gluing it down so that I can be able to have those ready for me when I work on doing the sizing and trimming of the rear later.
 
Digital caliper to mark mm widths is so much better than the non mm focused rulers



Update on Thighs,
 
I sized my thighs a little more narrow near the knee and wider near the top to allow them to sit better and look more angled toward the knee than barrel thigh. 



 


 
I then marked the center line down the outside flap (the side facing away from my body)
 


 
Score and snap

 
From here I reset the sizing of the thigh to a line marked internally and marked the new seam line on the inner flap, score and snap
 

 

I took the sizing in to account and set the inner cover strip in the rear seam of my thighs. I left this cover strip a little wider than 20mm due to the nature of it holding that area better.

 



 
 
After the glue had time to cure over 48 hours I returned to the thighs and trimmed the rear so it looked more appealing 



Before

 
After


 
Sanded and trimmed any spots that were longer than their opposite half counterpart

 
From here I’m ready to start the outer cover strip process. I actually did start it until I found I need more e6000 so I will have to get that and proceed from here.

I’ve marked internally where I intend to trim comfort/movement openings on the rear as well.



 
Don’t want to trim anything above the ridge.

I haven’t trimmed those mobility cuts yet, but I did fill the seams with abs slurry




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After that set I sanded it down some (may need some touch up later)

I then attached the front cover strips and let them cure. I currently now have the back cover strips clamped down.

 

As of this point until strapping I’ve finished the thighs. I made adjustments on the rear upper portion to make it more appealing to look at along with the rear cover strips and then I set the ammo belt on the right thigh.

This was a beast of a process, but essentially I found where the ammo belt needed to sit (about 6mm in and 6mm down from the hard corner in the return edge on the outer side. I had to clamp and hold tight many times to properly measure before I trimmed the outsides and did the curves. I honestly was using both my hands so much I had a hard time getting good photos of the whole process, but best advice here, measure twice drill/cut once. Once I determined the outer hole position I was able to do 10mm in and about 8-9mm down from the top of the outer edge. I used a 5/32 drill bit and then put the long male side of a single cap rivet in. I set the inner female cap using the tools for single cap rivets and a mallet.

 

 

I then followed the curve around while also having the top of the ammo belt sit flush with the bottom of the cover strip (again clamping and praying I’m holding tight enough while I measure and find the drill spot. 

Same thing on the inner edge. With my thighs being larger I could only get the ammo belt mostly to the sharp rear edge but got the same measurements drilled and the snap installed the same way. Well, actually one note upon installing the second snap. Flip the ammo belt to the rear of the thigh while installing, it will make it 100% easier to fit the tools and mallet in to hammer it closed than if you try with it in front.

 

Once snaps are installed flip the ammo belt to the front right edge against bottom of the cover strip.

 

 

Finally I clamped the ammo belt to the front edge to prevent any opening and squeezed some e6000 down in the corner and let it sit to glue in for 48 hours.

 

Now the more finished thighs

 

I’ll sand down the rear armor cover strip area a bit more later. I’m most likely going to cut mobility cuts in the rear so for that reason I’ll do it then.

Final steps. I added the belt strap (this holds the thighs up with a nylon belt I wear under the armor.

 

 

Three snaps may be a bit excessive, but with the amount of pull on this part of the armor I wanted to have some good strength.

 

 

Now with that done I was able to test the feel of the thighs and decided I still wanted the mobility cuts after all so I made sure to trim below the edge.

 

Edited April 12, 2023 by FN1313
Updated

[FN1313[TK]]

ABDOMEN

While waiting on other parts to cure glue I figured to start some of the trimming of other components especially the cod piece area of the armor being as I can’t really fit it on comfortably with a long tab stabbing between my legs

Looking at Ukswrath’s AM 1.0 tutorial and the AM 5.0 armor I have I think the extended tab is longer than it was before.

His tutorial indicated removing 2.5 cm of material. From my look it seems I should be removing 4.5 cm at least. Likely even up to 5cm





Personally I feel I should do another half centimeter and then round out the edges (you can see somewhat where I have smudged pencil is where I was thinking.

Though looking at his images it seems 4.5 would be best.

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I marked 2cm from the bottom edge of the cod piece for the rivet hole.





I will install a brass split rivet here. With a male snap on the inside when I get the snaps in.

I did have one snap from my first costume and decided to work on the Han snap on the upper right corner of the abdomen

Marking 20mm from the return edge and kidney edge and then x marks the spot.




Using a 5/32 drill bit I drilled a hole and then used a 3/8 inch drill bit to countersink BY HAND the outside so the flat end sits flush





My Han snap location was a little too far in as you’ll see later in this thread. I ended up putting a back of abs over the hole with glue and then filled with abs paste. It took two coverages and sanding sessions, but wasn’t too bad to do. I also used novus 3-2-1 to polish the area afterward.


I then measured the areas for the button panels so I could start getting them attached to the armor. The plastic here was thick, so I drilled holes at the edges of the cut points to help me better cut them apart. I then scored and snapped the top and bottom, After verifying again the size of the cuts I removed the sides.





I followed this process for the larger button panel



I then added some strips of abs behind the large panel and another small piece in the opening area to give a little extra glue area and strength






I verified the extra plastic wasn’t preventing it from sitting flush with the sides. I sanded the glue areas of each piece and then place on the abdomen. I used some blue tape to help hold position and then doubled up magnets to apply pressure.

I also verified the Han snap location is better and will tomorrow set it in place.



Finally I earlier added the male Tandy line 20 snaps for the belt (I will detail this more in the belt section)

And now that I got my Tandy line 24 snaps in I will start working on the rivet on the bottom tomorrow.

I clamped the Han snap in place and also got the split rivet with functional snap installed.




And here’s the front of the abdomen with the glued panels

 

I installed the left side snaps for the rigging with a nylon strap and 2 groups of 2 male Tandy line 24 snaps. Using clamps, magnets and wax paper I’m holding them down to glue. The wax paper is to prevent glue from sticking to the clamps/magnets

 

 

Here’s examples of the finished internal snaps for the abdomen to kidney

 

 

More details in the strapping/rigging section

 

With that done though I was able to proceed onto the button paint (probably could have done this before glueing the plates to the abdomen, but oh well.

 

First thing was I needed a tool to help me be able to make the blue tape cover for the snaps for when I painted. I found a nut and bolt sizing tool at Lowe’s for $5 that I hoped worked and sure enough the M10 size was fairly spot on.

 

 

From here I marked up tape on a spare piece of abs plastic and then used precision blade to cut around the outside of the circle I marked. Then i laid out each of these over the buttons to paint.

 

I then referenced this guide to know which buttons to paint which grey or blue color

 

I decided to paint by hand and not use airgun because cold weather and air guns don’t work, plus it’s such a small surface area.

Looking online for instructions on Testors enamel paints I wanted to know how long to wait between coats (I planned 3 coats) and how long to let the paint sit before I removed the masking tape.

The rules I found were 5 minutes between coats, final coat should be a heavier coat for better gloss appearance, and 2 hours delay before removing masking tape.

 

Following that process I did the first and second coats with a lighter coating.

 

 

And the third heavier coat

 

 

After 2 hours I removed the masking tape carefully, being sure to slowly pull out and away from the paint and not touch it.

 

 

Here’s another photo with natural lighting

 

From here I need to let the paint cure for 48 to 72 hours as enamel paint will harden over that time, but until then it’s still likely to cause paint damage more than after.

 

Abdomen is now complete and ready for rigging up further.

Edited April 16, 2023 by FN1313

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

2 hours ago, FN1313 said:

ABDOMEN

While waiting on other parts to cure glue I figured to start some of the trimming of other components especially the cod piece area of the armor being as I can’t really fit it on comfortably with a long tab stabbing between my legs

Looking at Ukswrath’s AM 1.0 tutorial and the AM 5.0 armor I have I think the extended tab is longer than it was before.

His tutorial indicated removing 2.5 cm of material. From my look it seems I should be removing 4.5 cm at least. Likely even up to 5cm





Personally I feel I should do another half centimeter and then round out the edges (you can see somewhat where I have smudged pencil is where I was thinking.

Though looking at his images it seems 4.5 would be best.

Agreed, I'd go for the smudge, mine just covers the front with hardly any wrap under, you really want some room there for when you are messing and moving around, nothing worse than getting an armor bite down that neck of the woods