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Posted

Glueing the boxes on the forearms:

 

k2puCIQl.jpg

 

And last to be glued, the back to the inner chest, but I’m still in the planning stage here, no glue, just magnets:

 

SJQBhG2l.jpg

 

I think the width of the pieces dictates where they will meet:

 

LYS28Lzl.jpg

 

I tried it on with just magnets and I can get my head thru, so that’s good. 

I guess I’m going to have to fix this seam also on the return edge:

 

AJUYaqPl.jpg

 

Before I actually glue, I’m gonna need to make sure my head will still fit thru once the outer chest is attached.

 

I’m going to review lots of reference photos for this part.

  • Like 2
Posted
1 hour ago, daryldoak said:

Before I actually glue, I’m gonna need to make sure my head will still fit thru once the outer chest is attached.

I might get this wrong but do you plan for having the chestplate permanently attached?

Posted
2 hours ago, daryldoak said:

 

 

AJUYaqPl.jpg

 

Before I actually glue, I’m gonna need to make sure my head will still fit thru once the outer chest is attached.

 

I’m going to review lots of reference photos for this part.

Looking at the step I would probably look at trimming and butt join with a metal backing for more strength, having a step would definitely be a little hard to flatten. It's really down to how it is going to look once finished and if it will be ok for GML approval. This area can flex when putting on and off so stress cracks down the sides are very common.

 

I've seen a couple add a hinge to this area like Phasma but you have to make it look seamless, Phasma's is covered with her cape.

24899870_1736596196359108_3731078213253424150_n.jpg.ceb3b7cd37b5809971c456e992a96fa4.jpg

 

  • Like 1
Posted

 

4 hours ago, TheSwede said:

I might get this wrong but do you plan for having the chestplate permanently attached?

No I’ll probably use Velcro.

 

4 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:

Looking at the step I would probably look at trimming and butt join with a metal backing for more strength, having a step would definitely be a little hard to flatten. It's really down to how it is going to look once finished and if it will be ok for GML approval. This area can flex when putting on and off so stress cracks down the sides are very common.

 

I've seen a couple add a hinge to this area like Phasma but you have to make it look seamless, Phasma's is covered with her cape.

24899870_1736596196359108_3731078213253424150_n.jpg.ceb3b7cd37b5809971c456e992a96fa4.jpg

 

 
I chatted with equuspolo (Ardeshir) and he recommended overlapping for extra support.

 

Time to bite the bullet and glue the inner chest and back:

 

6kKHdLol.jpg

 

qMnyn9ll.jpg

 

Started cuttings for a batch of ABS paste:

 

KGgxPYfl.jpg

 

  • Like 5
Posted

Nice work so far!

Glad you tested the yolk with magnets first for fitment-I did the same thing so I could get a feel for it. I think that overlap on the yolk will be fine. I had a butt joint on mine however, it was a 3 piece set-up from WTF. I used Devcon and then Proflex to blend the joint.

  • Like 1
Posted
On 1/23/2023 at 1:51 AM, daryldoak said:

I chatted with equuspolo (Ardeshir) and he recommended overlapping for extra support.

I did the same on my kit and so far no cracks, I have much less of a return edge though.

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

Painted the arm and leg greeblies:

 

8B7WPx0l.jpg

 

Then attached the clips to the forearms:

 

CbVMl7vl.jpg

 

And the biceps:

 

5PetVUMl.jpg

 

I think I trimmed too much return edge from the inner chest shoulder:

 

AJUYaqPl.jpg

 

Since I was worried about having enough space for the shoulder plate support tabs and strapping slots, I glued some little bits to both sides to fill the gap.  Then trimmed and sanded:

 

ivQ8Co0l.jpg

 

Then I sanded the lip caused by the overlap on the shoulders, to prep for ABS paste:

 

jW5xtj4l.jpg

 

Decided to tackle the ab seams first, so I taped off the area to prevent any spread and applied to the left side:

 

YeH4rR4l.jpg

 

I used a toothpick, which I thought would help get it into the seam, but turned out to make a messier application:

 

6fNEFCRl.jpg

 

So on the right side I used a popsicle stick, which was much easier to work with:

 

kYeqs57l.jpg

 

Next, I applied the ABS paste to both shoulders:

 

lK73vURl.jpg

 

I’ll let this dry overnight and then try some sanding tomorrow.


 

Edited by daryldoak
  • Like 3
Posted

Building up in layers is also a good idea, allows it to dry fully.

 

If you are applying for higher levels you will need to add a screw to your picatinny rail 

8B7WPx0l.jpg

 

large.untitled8.png.b9f701a1d7264d6d7f9flarge.untitledggggg.png.cd36426f034b7e29

  • On the ridged rail the third retaining button head closest to the elbow is an Allen key dome Hex bolt,
  • approximately 5mm head width. Decals or paint are not permissible.

 

 

 

 

  • Like 2
Posted

Did some very rough sanding on the ABS paste.

 

Results look good on the ab side seams:

 

7ianYwll.jpg

 

I think those are good to go for finish sanding and polishing.

 

The shoulder seams are going to need more work due to the overlap:

 

vUSRIn0l.jpg

 

So more rough sanding and then probably another coat of ABS paste

  • Like 4
Posted

Nice work

  • Like 1
Posted

Glued on the leg greeblies:

 

a6QgchLl.jpg

 

Started polishing the side seams with Novus 3, by hand.  Going well, but it’s tough work.

 

BRtMTHSl.jpg


I think I’m going to get a headlight polish kit with a drill attachment.  Gonna need it for the shoulders for sure.

 

Been working on the shoulders.  Wow it’s been frustrating.  ABS paste, sand, and repeat.  I’m still not 100% happy, but I think I’m going to call them good enough and move on to polishing.

 

LIvnsJbl.jpg

 

JLpv4h1l.jpg

  • Like 5
Posted

A very slow process indeed, ABS sanding and polishing is not the easiest, I actually used automotive cutting compound, it's a lot coarser than regular polish which helps to bring the shine back quicker, then go over with a regular polish.

 

You have done an excellent job, well done.

  • Like 2
Posted

ABS paste, sand, polish, and repeat, again and again and again….

 

Getting closer…

 

41RQeBCl.jpg

  • Like 5
Posted

Added the fabric and gaffers tape to the chest and gaffers tape to the biceps and shins pill holes:

 

m1CgYufl.jpg

 

V8u2mGal.jpg

 

wV2QdFJl.jpg

 

Next I decided to Frankenstein my v1 R2Dan functional metal holster onto the base of the Denuo Novo non-functional resin holster.  I started by cutting the “metal” part of the resin off of the base, which turned out better than I expected:

 

LxWqr70l.jpg

 

Think this is going to work pretty good:

 

LkRvTiol.jpg

 

Then I added filler to correct issues with the cutting process.  I also had to shorten the base by about 1/2” since the v1 metal is a bit shorter:

 

OEgWSJnl.jpg

 

And added white paint:

 

gy0LxIzl.jpg

 

The white really brought out the imperfections, so the base is going to take more filling and sanding.

 

More to come on this later.

  • Like 4
Posted

Continued working on the holster.

 

After a few filler and sanding cycle, it was ready for paint.  After one coat:

 

HdvI035l.jpg

 

Looking good:

 

o2CkvGNl.jpg

 

In order to install the hardware, I had to buy the Torx bits.  Then I added the center hardware, and found they stick out the back too far:

 

iPSOB1yl.jpg

 

So I dremeled them off drilled the holes in the base and thigh, and then did the final install:

 

4upxKuvl.jpg

 

J4zJLu1l.jpg

 

I’m happy with how my “Frankenstein” R2Dan metal + DN base turned out.

  • Like 5
Posted

Next was the slots in the shoulder for the shoulder bell support brackets and strapping.

 

I put the chest/back on and marked the top of the shoulder with tape.  Then I marked with pencil where the slots would be located.  Then I drilled holes to mark the ends of each slot:

 

6YKODdml.jpg

 

Next I used the cutting wheel on my dremel to cut the slots. It was pretty nerve wracking since these areas are really narrow, but it turned out ok:

 

pWU3JCQl.jpg

 

Then I sanded them a bit, then did a rough fit with the shoulder bracket and strapping.  Looking pretty good:

 

T1WwSBJl.jpg

 

And with me just holding the bell in place:

 

ODjlhBal.jpg

 

Then I glued the shoulder brackets in place with E6000:

 

rlAdyktl.jpg

 

Next I decided to cut some slots in the ab for the 2” strapping that I’m going to use as a suspension.  I got the idea from Captain’s Drydock on YouTube.

 

I used the same technique as I did on the shoulders, drilled holes to mark the ends of the slots:

 

Pv4dJRjl.jpg

 

d0GaXhjl.jpg

 

Then used my dremel to cut the slots on the front and back:

 

bZuQffml.jpg

 

yRytf0Ml.jpg

 

Rough fit with the strapping:

 

IEP88R3l.jpg

 

I’ll also be using some parachute clips to make it adjustable and easy to get in and out of.

  • Like 4
Posted (edited)

Added some ABS to the tops of the shoulder tabs:

 

AdyMUTEl.jpg

 

Painted the ab boxes and some other bits:

 

aoo2BGzl.jpg

 

Also been trying to figure out what strapping system I want to use, and which areas should be elastic vs. nylon.  I’m gonna start with the shoulder bells and biceps.

Edited by daryldoak
  • Like 2
Posted

Leaps and bounds, coming along nicely.

 

I find using elastic on areas that you will be moving is best, you can be quite restricted with nylon especially on the arms and legs. That said for other areas which you don't need to move very much like ab harness I used nylon. 

 

At the end of the day it's what ever feels more comfortable for you, a little trial an error doesn't hurt to get if feeling right ;) 

  • Like 2
Posted

Worked the shoulder bell straps, using elastic and snaps.  Glued on the shoulder plate side, snaps with snap plates on the bell side.

 

XemRiwTl.jpg

  • Like 3
Posted

Shoulder strapping turned out good:

 

v1DEXH4l.jpg

 

Next I trimmed the side opening so I can get into the chest/back easier.

 

While I had it on I determined how much I could trim off of the under chest and back, then marked it with pencil:

 

QzjF6scl.jpg

 

I’m taking more off of the under chest than the back since the outer chest overlaps.

 

Cut it off, looks good for now:

 

QVZN1Lhl.jpg

 

With the outer chest just held in place:

 

VOEWb9gl.jpg

  • Like 6
Posted

On mine I found the shoulder bells gap on the front would open up when moving the arms and then returning to rest so I made the elastic shorter on the front than the rear, this helps pull the shoulder bells in at the front when at rest, see how you go when you are all kitted up ;) 

v1DEXH4l.jpg

  • Like 3
Posted

Started working on hanging the spine plate.

 

First thing I realized is the slots that I added for torso strapping are not going to work with the spine plate:

 

bQUa6qNl.jpg

 

So I’m going to abandon those slots and do something different for the strapping later.

 

I cut some little tabs from ABS to use and guides for the spine plate and glued those in place:

 

sYf7cCQl.jpg

 

Then I cut some ABS to use as hangers for the spine plate.  Used my heat gun to bend them and then glued them on the back:

 

lZynKXcl.jpg

 

Turned out pretty good:

 

Vt9SQgDl.jpg
 

  • Like 3
Posted

More strapping today.

 

Added elastic straps and males clips to top of biceps:

 

nspVvo7l.jpg

 

Female clips will be attached to elastic inside of the shoulder bells.

 

Added straps and female clips to inside top of the thighs:

 

6TbqzErl.jpg

 

Males clips will be on strapping attached to a garter belt.

 

Added straps and female clips the the top of the torso front:

 

NbjmoXLl.jpg

 

WjBppHgl.jpg

 

And glued strap in the back, these will go over the shoulders with the male clip at the end:

 

K4Cgn7xl.jpg

 

Added Velcro to the cod and torso:

 

jORDXAnl.jpg

 

XCVS4NCl.jpg

 

Added Velcro to the glove plates:

 

yU0CLLul.jpg

 

NTgr0Xul.jpg

 

Added Velcro to the spats:

 

9ki8Ejdl.jpg

  • Like 4

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