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Posted (edited)

A little more progress on fine-trimming and sanding.

 

Cod before:
9gICAPql.jpg

 

Cod after:
g7i9qHJl.jpg


Torso before:
NHBIGzbl.jpg

GCx3kEZl.jpg

 

Torso after:
rGP7m7al.jpg

tjYOgW5l.jpg

65E8To2l.jpg

 

Spine plate before:
cdeV06Sl.jpg

 

Spine plate after:
LlHSo0cl.jpg
 

Edited by daryldoak
  • Like 1
Posted

Trimming/sanding, not a lot of difference visible in the pictures, but making progress.


Butt before:
5zibd6Ol.jpg

 

Butt after:
qefUbGbl.jpg

 

Under chest before:
XxYi0oCl.jpg

 

Under chest after:
AgmcFxel.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted

Pouch cover before:
iegyR6Cl.jpg


Pouch cover after:

YKa4cuNl.jpg

 

Knee before:
h5Wqdv9l.jpg

 

Knee after:
OsDUkrdl.jpg

 

Hand plate before:
LoQwSiIl.jpg

 

Hand plate after:
pYczuCQl.jpg

  • Like 3
Posted

Chest and back fine-trimming and sanding.


Chest before:
AEi5nPzl.jpg

 

Chest after.  I was really unsure about the neckline and sides of the chest.  There were no guidelines.  Hopefully somebody can let me know how it looks, and what the tips should look like.

 

Neckline outside.  It’s really hard to tell, but I left just a bit of return edge:

OEsvfa6l.jpg

 

Neckline inside:

4Uvbcc9l.jpg

 

Chest side:
mXMR6Ppl.jpg


Back before:
HJJGs0Il.jpg

iJp7opll.jpg

 

Back after:
xNdsBFYl.jpg

VNxm6ZRl.jpg

 

The back, at the shoulder tabs, is by far the thinnest part of this armor kit.  It’s unfortunate since that area is going to carry a lot of stress when the under chest is attached.   I do have Ukswrath’s shoulder brackets, so hopefully that is going to help.  So I left extra at the shoulder tabs, just in case.  You can just barely see the guide lines in this photo:
LqPxqmMl.jpg

Posted
13 hours ago, daryldoak said:

The back, at the shoulder tabs, is by far the thinnest part of this armor kit.  It’s unfortunate since that area is going to carry a lot of stress when the under chest is attached.   I do have Ukswrath’s shoulder brackets, so hopefully that is going to help.  So I left extra at the shoulder tabs, just in case.  You can just barely see the guide lines in this photo:

 

In my case, after the first crack :(,  I had to reinforce that area with a piece of ABS . Since that, I have  put on the armor  several times with no problems. (always taking care when attaching that section)

 

7e2TTCu.jpg

 

 

 

 

W1MuNP9.jpg

 

p2lJdLO.jpg

 

 

 

  • Like 5
Posted

I added some extra ABS along both the insides, unfortunately it's a part which needs to flex getting it over your arm gaskets it's inevitable cracks will form. 

  • Like 2
Posted

Hi Daryl, I’m following your build as I just got my Denuo Novo kit as well. Great work so far! What is your plan for the top of the shoulders? There is a seam in this kit, but it’s supposed to be seamless. Still deciding how I want to approach that. Looking forward to seeing more!

  • Like 1
Posted
13 hours ago, David305 said:

Hi Daryl, I’m following your build as I just got my Denuo Novo kit as well. Great work so far! What is your plan for the top of the shoulders? There is a seam in this kit, but it’s supposed to be seamless. Still deciding how I want to approach that. Looking forward to seeing more!

David,

 

Thanks!  I do plan on glueing, filling, and sanding the shoulder seam, as well as the torso side seams, then painting the kit.  Good luck on your build!

Posted
9 hours ago, daryldoak said:

David,

 

Thanks!  I do plan on glueing, filling, and sanding the shoulder seam, as well as the torso side seams, then painting the kit.  Good luck on your build!

Do you plan on using E6000 or something like Devcon for the glue?

Posted

Hey Daryl run the bell support brackets as deep as they'll go. Once you apply the glue ensure the small tabs are glued as well. The small tabs are there to help give the area that's cracking more support.

  • Like 1
Posted
3 hours ago, David305 said:

Do you plan on using E6000 or something like Devcon for the glue?

 

Great question. Glues like plastic weld (Devcon or equivalent) help to prevent flexibility at the seams which will cause paint cracking. 

  • Like 1
Posted
Just now, ukswrath said:

 

Great question. Glues like plastic weld (Devcon or equivalent) will help to prevent flexibility at the seams which will cause paint cracking. 

 

Posted
7 hours ago, David305 said:

Do you plan on using E6000 or something like Devcon for the glue?

Defnitely want to use a glue that will hold, I used JB weld very much like Devcon and could be sanded made things a little easier. With any application of glue make sure you rough up both surfaces before applying glue as it will help the glue to grip to.

  • Like 2
Posted
10 hours ago, ukswrath said:

 

Great question. Glues like plastic weld (Devcon or equivalent) help to prevent flexibility at the seams which will cause paint cracking. 

 

6 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:

Defnitely want to use a glue that will hold, I used JB weld very much like Devcon and could be sanded made things a little easier. With any application of glue make sure you rough up both surfaces before applying glue as it will help the glue to grip to.

Thanks guys!  I was about to ask the same glue question since glueing will begin in my not too distant future.

  • Like 2
Posted

You are powering through this build Daryl, keep up the great work.

  • Like 1
Posted


So I’m a little confused about joining these biceps.  I’m hoping to get clarification before I glue these. (I apologize in advance, I’m going to try and describe these details as best as I can).

 

The small, inner bicep piece has this indented, trapezoidal, stepped shape, which is a detail people added manually on the prior Anovos kits.  Now this is where you join the pieces.


8lIDTg7l.jpg

 

The edge of trap indent (pic 1 red arrow) goes beyond the natural join “line”. 

 

The clip indent (pic 1 blue arrow) is not aligned with the trap indent.

 

When you put the pieces together I’m not sure how much of a gap there should be between the two pieces, which also determines if the outer pieces overlaps the trap indent. So should they be joined at the edge of the trap? Or should it overlap the trap?


19SALgHl.jpg

 

It also looks like there is a faint line on the outer piece (pic 2 blue arrow), and it’s really thin, so I’m wondering if I need to trim more, which also impact how much gap would be between the two pieces, since the clip still needs to fit.

 

 

Posted

A couple of references for you

large.star-wars-tfa-stormtrooper-rt-arm-

 

e11_ri10.jpg

 

  • Like 2
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...
Posted

Helmet arrived today.  I guess that means it’s time to get back to building,  hopefully I’ll get motivated soon.  LOL

 

L18nZurl.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted

Great news, it's been a long wait but very glad to see orders are turning up.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Completed the fine trimming and sanding of the thighs, shins, spats, and forearms.

 

Got my clamps and magnets out and decided to glue my first pieces.  I’m using E6000.

 

Left thigh:
HVnHq5Zl.jpg

Edited by daryldoak
  • Like 1
Posted

While waiting for the glue to fully set on the thigh (I only have enough magnets and clamps to do one piece at a time), I was feeling brave, so I decided to open up all of the pill holes (shins, biceps, and chest) and the chest indent.

 

I used my dremel with a sanding barrel and went at them from behind, sanding just enough to open the hole.  This worked really great.  Then I hand sanded to get nice openings.

 

Shins and biceps:
yxickLpl.jpg

 

Inside view of a bicep:
jOsefknl.jpg

 

Chest:
i2JmZyZl.jpg

 

Inside view of the chest.
NRhqsffl.jpg

 

Overall, I’m very happy with how these turned out.  If you do this be very careful, it would be very easy to go too far or even melt the pieces.

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