DocMatt21's WTF ANH Stunt TK Build

[DocMatt21]

Hi everyone,

 

I feel like on have been on the forum for a while but haven't posted anything yet. So better late than never to introduce myself. My name is Matt, and I'm based in North Carolina. I've known about the 501st for a long time now, but I finally have the time and resources to build a set of armor for myself.

 

Now, I finally have the time to start working on the armor I have had in my basement for the past six months. This is my first build so I decided to go with ANH Stunt. I purchased my armor from Walt last year and I have been slowly acquiring the supplies to start. I have started working on doing the rough trimming, starting with the arms. I've gone ahead and removed most of the return edges on the biceps. 

 

 

 

 

One question I have is that is it OK to have the ridges where the cover strips will go in the middle. I've seen on some of the other WTF builds is that some people have the ridges and some remove them. I have average size biceps so I definitely have room to trim them before I start doing any gluing. I want to go for centurion with the build so I just want to make sure I don't mess anything up early. Can't wait to keep you all updated on how this build goes!

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Hello and welcome aboard. Coverstrips on arms are normally @15mm and sit just inside the ridges, you shouldn't need that much room for your biceps. Some kits have raised edges only on one side, some both sides and some no raised ridges at all, you size to your arms.

 

Some references

 

 

Cover strip threads

 

Also a great thread on return edges

 

[DocMatt21]

One of the other things that distracted me from starting my build is that I wanted to 3D print my E-11. I had always wanted to buy a 3D printer so took this perfect opportunity to get one. I used @trooper96's wonderful files and instructions which made it very easy. Also,  @justjoseph63's post on how to smooth out the pieces was very helpful. Here is the finished product. Let me know if there are any areas for improvement.

 

 

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Nice work there is a lot of prep work goes into 3D prints just to get them looking as good as they can.

 

Recent addition to the CRL's

L2 and above

• 3-D printed blasters can not contain visible print lines, and must be sanded smooth for a more realistic appearance.

 

You may want to check in with your GML (garrison membership liaison) some are a little more picky on printed weapons than others and may request no lines be present for base approval (although you don't need a weapon to gain base clearance  ) 

 

Ok so to be a little picky, looks like your scope will need some prep to remove the lines, this may have been a late addition and you've not tackled it as yet. Can also see a few other areas, right side front folding stock (actually both sides front). Inner silver bolt as well.

Scope rail is bent, an aluminium rail would be better for strength. Also note the height at the front and rear of the scope rail are different.

 

Can see some lines in the T tracks as well. There are a few others very faint, magazine end cap and henglster.

 

Also appears some lines on your handle, just visible

 

I like to sand (ok I don't like to sand) every piece before adding any spray putty (other parts of the world call it primer/filler) we have that too but it's just not as thick as spray putty. I put on 3 to 4 coats depending on how deep lines/scratches are. I know many use the blade putty but it's a lot harder to sand in comparison with spray putty. I sand wet with 240 grit wet/dry sandpaper and also add some dish washing liquid to the water, helps to stop clogging and makes the sandpaper last a little longer. Blade putty is for anything else left behind, and a good way to check this is give it a guide coat of black, a very light mist coat, once you start sanding you can see if any black remains that's were you need to fill. Coat of primer and a hand sand with 600 grit and it's pretty much ready for paint.

 

[trooper96[501st]]

You did a great job on the printing and assembly of the blaster! Thank you for choosing my model! A little more work to remove the remaining print lines, and you'll be set. I recently found a handy tool to save my elbow and fingers some wear and tear during sanding. It's an attachment for my Dremel called a buffing wheel. I do a rough sanding first, then use the Dremel to smooth it out. If you try this, set the Dremel to the lowest speed, apply only light pressure, and keep the tool moving. Too much pressure or dwelling can delaminate the surface layers.

[Lord_Potato[TK]]

Welcome! I made a WTF kit and would like to help! I received so much help from so many wonderful people here and its about time I return the favor. Looking forward to your progress.