3D Printed weapons and accessories for EI and higher

[Sly11[Admin]]

What you need to know

 

It is now allowable as per all FISD CRL's, that 3D printed blasters, other approved weapons and accessories pertaining to each specific costume are allowed.

 

There are some very simple guidlines to be followed which will help us to uphold the quality expectations of our higher leves Expert Infantry and Centurion.

 

Below is the wording exert form our CRL's which appears at the header section and in blue in the Optional level 2 for each weapon and accessory.

This broad coverage should help eliminate anyone missing the specific details.

 

For higher levels of approval EIB and Centurion:

For costumes with only blasters.

• 3D printed blasters can not contain visible print lines and must be sanded smooth for a more realistic appearance.

For costumes with both blasters and accessories.

• 3D printed blasters and any approvable accessories can not contain visible print lines and must be sanded smooth for a more realistic appearance.

 

Below is a series of images supplied by BigJasoni TK-51923 (Jason) of some of his 3D printed blaster examples.

 

Correctly completed painted and detailed.

To note, there are no visible print lines. This is a good example of the work needed to bring a 3D printed blaster up to the expected standard and finish of a resin cast or metal blaster.

SE-14R

 

Examples of some 3D printed blasters and the type of print lines and other defects that must be sanded, filled and primed for that perfect look

 

This piece has undergone an initial rough sand, but is far from ready for painting.

As you can see there are plenty of lines and crevices needing more sanding, and plenty of filling. other surfaces are looking quite clean.

 

 

 

below we see more support material that requires removal, further sanding and filling.

There is plenty of pitting and other slight defects that need to be rectified.

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

As someone who had made more than a few 3D weapons/props, I can add that how much time you spend smoothing it out depends on the material you use to actually print the parts.  My first build years ago was a DLT-19 made from PLA.  Over 25 hours or so of sanding/filling.. and LOTS of those tiny "threads" that can be a pain to get rid of. 

Resin prints are pricier (but VERY smooth) so I normally have them done in PETG as I find it much easier to sand/fill.

 

There are many items available to help get rid of print lines, but after initial sanding my "go-to" items are Bondo Glazing and Spot putty for the deeper lines and Rust-oleum Filler Primer before final sanding .  Both are available at any auto parts store.

 

If you want a durable "glass like" finish you can use XTC-3D epoxy filler (it takes some practice, though). 

 

One thing that is important to do is smooth all the pieces before gluing them.  Once assembled, it can be next to impossible to get into all the tiny crevices.  Trust me.

 

I have a thread on smoothing out lines using these products (link here) which can help.  It was for an ESB E-11 (seen below) but shows the basics and can be applied to any 3D weapon or prop.

 

                  

 

     

 

 

[Harbinger[IPM]]

…and wear protection! Bondo especially, gloves and a mask IMO.

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

17 hours ago, Harbinger said:

…and wear protection! Bondo especially, gloves and a mask IMO.

 

Excellent point, Brien!  I have added this to my build thread:

 

*** Please be aware that this product should only be used outdoors or in a well ventilated area.  It is also highly suggested that you use a mask and gloves.