ukswrath[Staff] Posted January 8 Report Posted January 8 1 hour ago, gmrhodes13 said: An old trick was to drill a hole where it will not be seen (under a clip or control panel) then use compressed air in the hole and one cap should pop off, then you have access to knock the other cap off. Adding to this idea. Drill a small hole where the TD clip screws will be mounted. Then you're not really doing any damage 2 Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted January 8 Report Posted January 8 1 hour ago, ukswrath said: Adding to this idea. Drill a small hole where the TD clip screws will be mounted. Then you're not really doing any damage You know I was going to add that but couldn't see any clips on his TD images Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted January 8 Report Posted January 8 7 minutes ago, gmrhodes13 said: You know I was going to add that but couldn't see any clips on his TD images I figured it was coming 1 Quote
MSF Productions Posted January 12 Author Report Posted January 12 On 1/7/2024 at 6:20 PM, Sly11 said: You can use the boiling water method to try and loosen up the end caps. Boil the kettle, pour water into a pot, immerse one end cap into the water approx 3/4 of it width into the water holding it vertically. Keep it there for a minute, so the plastic can heat and soften a little, then try and wiggle or screw that end off. The aim is to get the ABS to soften as it will slightly expand. I think once you get one end off, the other will be much easier as you can access it from the inside and gently tap it off. Use a broom handle slide the TD over the top and tap it against the top of the broom stick, it should come off no problem, just take it nice and easy. The TD endcaps were successfully removed! 3 Quote
justjoseph63[Staff] Posted January 12 Report Posted January 12 6 hours ago, MSF Productions said: The TD endcaps were successfully removed! How did you end up getting them to come off? Quote
dblcross[TK] Posted January 12 Report Posted January 12 I could be wrong but It looks like your chest plate needs to come down and overlap the ab plate slightly. Heres a picture of mine. Quote
MSF Productions Posted January 12 Author Report Posted January 12 5 hours ago, justjoseph63 said: How did you end up getting them to come off? Heat gun from VERY far away and very slowly 1 Quote
MSF Productions Posted January 12 Author Report Posted January 12 58 minutes ago, dblcross said: I could be wrong but It looks like your chest plate needs to come down and overlap the ab plate slightly. Heres a picture of mine. I haven't taken any new photos but I fixed that, one of my garrison members called it out, easiest fix 1 Quote
Tilheyra[IPM] Posted January 12 Report Posted January 12 I will join the others here in noting to feel free to keep asking questions and posting updates! I (as many of us here) certainly enjoy reading the build threads of others! Although I built a shock trooper, the kit I used was a Walt's Trooper Factory ANH kit that I then modified, so I have familiarity with the specific make of this kit. 2 Quote
dblcross[TK] Posted January 12 Report Posted January 12 1 hour ago, Tilheyra said: I will join the others here in noting to feel free to keep asking questions and posting updates! I (as many of us here) certainly enjoy reading the build threads of others! Although I built a shock trooper, the kit I used was a Walt's Trooper Factory ANH kit that I then modified, so I have familiarity with the specific make of this kit. And that's some good help. He's got an awesome kit Kody. 1 Quote
MSF Productions Posted January 20 Author Report Posted January 20 Had to throw almost everything on I was amazed I was able to put almost everything on without assistance. The clanking of the plastic when moving around was very pleasing. To do -Helmet- wearing a placeholder helmet until I get my actual helmet finished, I'm going to get some help on that -Belt assembly -Thigh ammo belt -the ab plate boxes -any and all quality of life tweaks that need to be done leading up to submitting, getting help from local Garrison members as I make my way there 1 Quote
Tilheyra[IPM] Posted January 23 Report Posted January 23 It is always amazing putting on the full armor for the first time! On 1/20/2024 at 12:55 AM, MSF Productions said: To do -Helmet- wearing a placeholder helmet until I get my actual helmet finished, I'm going to get some help on that -Belt assembly -Thigh ammo belt -the ab plate boxes -any and all quality of life tweaks that need to be done leading up to submitting, getting help from local Garrison members as I make my way there Were you able to address the issue with the cover strips on the front of the thighs with your GML? I recall a discussion earlier in the thread concerning the width of these cover strips and distance between the raised ridges on the front of the thighs. If there is an issue, it is certainly easier to make changes before you attach the thigh ammo belt. Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted January 23 Report Posted January 23 On 1/20/2024 at 1:55 PM, MSF Productions said: Had to throw almost everything on I was amazed I was able to put almost everything on without assistance. The clanking of the plastic when moving around was very pleasing. To do -Helmet- wearing a placeholder helmet until I get my actual helmet finished, I'm going to get some help on that -Belt assembly -Thigh ammo belt -the ab plate boxes -any and all quality of life tweaks that need to be done leading up to submitting, getting help from local Garrison members as I make my way there \ You may want to add some side shims to reduce the gaps between the abdomen and kidney (although this is for higher levels) OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Any gap between the abdomen and kidney armor is no more than 1/2" (12.5mm) wide. Any shims used to achieve this effect are of a similar material and color as the abdomen and kidney armor. Shims fit flush and seams are allowed. Quote
revlimiter[Staff] Posted January 23 Report Posted January 23 1 hour ago, gmrhodes13 said: You may want to add some side shims to reduce the gaps between the abdomen and kidney +1 to this. Walts armor is VERRRY small and a good 95% of troopers need to add side shims. The molds seem to be made for the most petite troopers. Quote
MSF Productions Posted July 19 Author Report Posted July 19 Took a leap of faith with the bucket after doing some realignment of the main body with another member and a GML yesterday. I've been told to look at how wonky the screen used ones are- to embrace little bit of whackiness in mine. If I can't dial in the helmet, I might just throw in the towel and buy one from a local maker. This bucket has been a learning process but I don't know how many more rivet and screw holes this thing can take I yoinked some screen grabs from another thread so I can at least feel better ab out my ear gaps Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted July 19 Report Posted July 19 You do have a few issues there, I'll add some references so you can compare Ear gap is a little big Brow trim a little uneven, should be straight Bottom screw is normally seen outside the rubber trim Vocoder needs to be more defined Ears need black line around the grey as well as one bump No paint on gums Tears and traps black lines need to be a little more defined, masking with painters tape can help this. Another trick is to paint the black first then add the grey, easier to control the width of the lines that way. Corners should also be sharp and not rounded. Don't get disheartened most of what you have just needs tweaking and a little more work, although I think your ears may be too thin on the bases to salvage. Quote
MSF Productions Posted July 19 Author Report Posted July 19 1 hour ago, gmrhodes13 said: You do have a few issues there, I'll add some references so you can compare Ear gap is a little big Brow trim a little uneven, should be straight Bottom screw is normally seen outside the rubber trim Vocoder needs to be more defined Ears need black line around the grey as well as one bump No paint on gums Tears and traps black lines need to be a little more defined, masking with painters tape can help this. Another trick is to paint the black first then add the grey, easier to control the width of the lines that way. Corners should also be sharp and not rounded. Don't get disheartened most of what you have just needs tweaking and a little more work, although I think your ears may be too thin on the bases to salvage. I see I see Unfortunately I don't think I can save this, especially with the helmet ears- I tried closing the gap as best as I could not too long ago. I might just have to throw in the towel on the bucket at least, and maybe just buy one. Thanks for all the great helmet closeups 1 Quote
MSF Productions Posted July 19 Author Report Posted July 19 Most recent amount of helmet shenanigans. I think I backed myself into a corner. Going to talk to my local peeps, get some insight. If there's nothing I can do- I think I'll have to bite the bullet and see if I can buy one Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted July 19 Report Posted July 19 This is a really informative thread on fitting the ears 1 Quote
MSF Productions Posted July 19 Author Report Posted July 19 The bit that really has me feeling like I really goofed up is that I clipped the ear screws inside, so it could be wearable- and now I can't unscrew the screws Quote
Tilheyra[IPM] Posted July 19 Report Posted July 19 20 minutes ago, MSF Productions said: The bit that really has me feeling like I really goofed up is that I clipped the ear screws inside, so it could be wearable- and now I can't unscrew the screws If you are really careful about it, you could use a small wire brush to remove as much of the remaining burs as possible from the end of the screw where you cut, then a socket wrench to remove the nut. Also use a screwdriver on the head of the screw/bolt to prevent it from turning when using the socket wrench. Just be slow and careful when doing this so as not to damage the inside of the helmet. Also, did your kit come with a second set of ears? WTF kits usually come with a second set. Quote
MSF Productions Posted July 19 Author Report Posted July 19 1 minute ago, Tilheyra said: If you are really careful about it, you could use a small wire brush to remove as much of the remaining burs as possible from the end of the screw where you cut, then a socket wrench to remove the nut. Also use a screwdriver on the head of the screw/bolt to prevent it from turning when using the socket wrench. Just be slow and careful when doing this so as not to damage the inside of the helmet. Also, did your kit come with a second set of ears? WTF kits usually come with a second set. I have 2 more sets of ears. I'm mostly hesitant to do anything else because it took a decent chunk of drilling and riveting to get the actual body of the helmet to line up as best as I could. I'm mostly just afraid to cause a split that won't be able to be fixed by removing and redoing anymore screws or rivets Quote
themaninthesuitcase[Admin] Posted July 22 Report Posted July 22 Can you show a picture of the clipped ends of the screws? A few options to deal with them. One is brute force and ignorance. Brass is pretty soft so you use a correct size socket and screw driver and turn. Other wise you are looking at filing or grinding the ends to remove the damage from the cut ends. Quote
FN1313[TK] Posted August 7 Report Posted August 7 Not sure if you can, but if screws are the worry maybe a hardware store has new screws you could pick up? Quote
MSF Productions Posted August 29 Author Report Posted August 29 First full kit up Left shin knee is inside the left thigh Bib of my neck seal was also sticking out, a lot Got asked about my undersuit possibly being baggy- it's skin tight, and is a chore to get in and out of As of right now, this is where everything currently sits Quote
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