Articulated cod armor (aka sitting is easy)

[BDWC[TK]]

 

I know this has been done, especially in the UK. However I have been unable to find any build threads that cover this. I plan to make the cut so that it will be covered by the ammo belt. Also planning on using 2" elastic straps with snaps.

 

This will not only improve my flexibly in armor, but this way I can remove the cod for kilted trooping.

 

Thanks in advance for any info or links to how others have done this !

 

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Edited February 24, 2022 by BDWC

[Sn4k3]

I have no idea that this was possible, i hope that the more experienced chime in to share the info

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[TheSwede[TK]]

It’s possible and often used to shorten the cod/ab plate so suit shorter Troopers. Usually it’s fused back to solid though. Some keep it ” loose and some make the mod to get some mobility. I wouldn’t though as for me I want the feel of the original suit. A moving codpiece takes it away, atleast for me and not sure it will look as good as a solid one either. 

Edited February 24, 2022 by TheSwede

[Sly11[Admin]]

May I suggest you make that kind of modification after you have the costume approved, even at basic level, or check with your GML just in case.

If you were to go for our optional higher levels, again I would suggest the same, get approved to the level you want, then make additional mods.

[BDWC[TK]]

10 minutes ago, Sly11 said:

May I suggest you make that kind of modification after you have the costume approved, even at basic level, or check with your GML just in case.

If you were to go for our optional higher levels, again I would suggest the same, get approved to the level you want, then make additional mods.

Done, done, and done.....now going for comfort after maxing out the levels and now having had 2 hip replacements
(Andrew, I'm guessing you're posting from your phone and cannot see the badges?)

 

Edited February 24, 2022 by BDWC

[TKSpartan[Staff]]

Hi, you may want to check this build thread. 

 

 

 

 

[BDWC[TK]]

15 minutes ago, TKSpartan said:

Hi, you may want to check this build thread. 

 

 

 

 

Thank you Mario.

I like the "overlapping method" used here as that would give stiffness as if it was solid under most circumstances. I believe if I used elastic strapping (instead of non-elastic nylon strapping as I use on my shoulders) that would give the flexibility when needed.

Once I get started and experiment a little bit, I will post photos. Thanks again!!

[BDWC[TK]]

Cod strapping placements and area marked for division areas that will be covered by the ammo belt (still deciding on exact cut-line above or below ab moldline to enable reattachment in the future, if need be)

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[TKSpartan[Staff]]

Looking forward for your advances and how it turns Jim. 

[revlimiter[Staff]]

I recently figured out that I can sit in my AP armor. It's not great... it's more like perching than sitting, but I've got a pic of me doing it in my build thread. I've sat maybe a dozen times now with no damage to the butt plate or mounting tab area.

 

And that's great and all, right. Doesn't help you with this thread. *and yet it might.*

 

@MaskedVengeance replied in there that he was surprised no one has ever done a silicone butt plate for us. And I keep thinking about that post. A silicone butt plate would remove all the damage danger. Sitting would still be basically perching without more articulation in the cod area (which you're addressing in this thread), but... a silicone butt.  That plus a bit of flex in the cod plate would give us troops a lot more posing options.

 

It would require a pretty large mold and probably building up the back side of the master piece with some clay to make it thicker, but I bet a flexible posterior plate would be possible. Maybe worth reaching out to an armor maker to see if it's possible?

[MaskedVengeance[Staff]]

As Adam said, for a couple years now I've wondered why such a flexible silicone posterior had not ever been created, or at least documented. I suspect one major reason is color-matching and painting challenges, which seem to be the hurdle with flexible TK shoulder bridges. Mr Paul (and some others) have made flexible bridges for Shoretroopers, and I have seen some for TKs as well, but I think it always comes back to paint. There are so many shades of white TK ABS out there, so tinting the material wouldn't really be an option, and there are certainly challenges with applying paint to very flexible surfaces.

 

I'm eagerly following along on this thread to see how you implement your ideas! As Mario posted, looking at shorter troopers' threads might provide insight. In addition to Sha Sha's, I believe Christine @Cricket may have also done some height modifications (though I don't recall if she actually split the ab/cod piece).

[Cricket[TK]]

1 hour ago, MaskedVengeance said:

 

I'm eagerly following along on this thread to see how you implement your ideas! As Mario posted, looking at shorter troopers' threads might provide insight. In addition to Sha Sha's, I believe Christine @Cricket may have also done some height modifications (though I don't recall if she actually split the ab/cod piece).

I actually did cut my cod!   And moved it up to fit my shorter torso.  I let the parts overlap and glued them back together.  You can't see at all that I trimmed things to accommodate my vertically challenged state.  

I don't see why a cod piece secured to the ab with nylon straps or elastic, or whatever, would be a problem.  The belt hides everything where the cut would be, and the elastic at the bottom of the cod/butt plate would keep things from flopping around.  (haha... see what I did there?)  The FOTK kits have their cods secured separately from the ab using snaps on the inside of the belt.  Can anyone tell?  I doubt it unless you're staring intensely at the trooper's cod.  And if you are doing just that, then you might have other issues going on.  

[BDWC[TK]]

10 minutes ago, Cricket said:

I don't see why a cod piece secured to the ab with nylon straps or elastic, or whatever, would be a problem.  The belt hides everything where the cut would be, and the elastic at the bottom of the cod/butt plate would keep things from flopping around.  (haha... see what I did there?)  The FOTK kits have their cods secured separately from the ab using snaps on the inside of the belt.  Can anyone tell?  I doubt it unless you're staring intensely at the trooper's cod.  And if you are doing just that, then you might have other issues going on.  

Thanks, I didn't think about attaching to the belt! But with ANH, I guess that I would have to E6000 a snaplate onto the inside of the belt so it doesn't show?
Anywho, I'm pondering a set-up to add ABS strips to align and/or stiffen the connection (if need be) much like some folks have done on the kidney-to-ab connection. This would also allow for a base to bond or ABS paste the pieces back together. since this would be easier and more accurate before separating , this is the last thing I'm considering before making the cuts

[Cricket[TK]]

4 minutes ago, BDWC said:

Thanks, I didn't think about attaching to the belt! But with ANH, I guess that I would have to E6000 a snaplate onto the inside of the belt so it doesn't show?
Anywho, I'm pondering a set-up to add ABS strips to align and/or stiffen the connection (if need be) much like some folks have done on the kidney-to-ab connection. This would also allow for a base to bond or ABS paste the pieces back together. since this would be easier and more accurate before separating , this is the last thing I'm considering before making the cuts

The build of the FOTK is an entirely different beast.   I 3D printed a set for my son (scaled down, of course).  Looking again at my build, there is a strap riveted to the interior of the ab, and snaps were attached to that.  This is how Tony's (Ukswrath) FOTK build went, so I did pretty much the same thing.


Connection area is totally hidden by the belt.


I wouldn't attach the cod directly to the belt of the ANH TK, though.  It doesn't seem like it would be all that secure.  From what I've seen others do, it's a matter of gluing snap plates to the inside of the ab above where the cod is cut.  Add corresponding snap plates to the inside of the cod, then attach your snap/straps.

[Cricket[TK]]

Oh, and that thing you mentioned about adding ABS strips to stiffen the connection area if you're gluing....  I've never needed to do that.  When I cut, I didn't cut right at the ridge at the bottom of the ab (where the cod starts).    Instead, I cut about 3/4" below that.  This allows a wide secure surface to overlap with your cod and to glue it back on (if you're shortening things).  Also, it preserves the vertical ridge on the ab/cod, so you don't have to worry about guessing where to line things back up.  The parts will naturally align to that ridge.  I hope that makes sense!  I very recently shortened my cod on my TK Hero kit, so I'm kind of familiar with how things go.   

[BDWC[TK]]

8 minutes ago, Cricket said:

Oh, and that thing you mentioned about adding ABS strips to stiffen the connection area if you're gluing....  I've never needed to do that.  When I cut, I didn't cut right at the ridge at the bottom of the ab (where the cod starts).    Instead, I cut about 3/4" below that.  This allows a wide secure surface to overlap with your cod and to glue it back on (if you're shortening things).  Also, it preserves the vertical ridge on the ab/cod, so you don't have to worry about guessing where to line things back up.  The parts will naturally align to that ridge.  I hope that makes sense!  I very recently shortened my cod on my TK Hero kit, so I'm kind of familiar with how things go.   

Thanks! As you see from my pictures there is a VERY small gap that exists between the  ab-to-cod moldline curve and I was thinking of splitting the difference there. That would give a flat-to-flat area for reconnections if needed.  I think that the belt will cover it and, if anything, any "belt sag" would just be to the better for concealment. If the elastic stretches too much though and reveals the split, then there is the second snap provided by the Anovos thigh plate snaps.

I'm still muddling over this before cutting 

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

If I may weigh in on this, it would be as follows:

 

Yes, we have standards for all costumes within our Detachment, especially at higher levels of approval.  But, once a Trooper attains those levels we have zero control over what they choose to change or deviate from.  For instance, I have been approved at Level 3 for three different sets of armor, but I do not wear rubber gloves for normal trooping.  As much as I would like to be 100% screen accurate. in a hot climate it's just not practical for comfort.

Do approved Centurions change things?  Of course!  Let's face it, as much as we would like to see all TKs look the exact same that's just never going to happen.  We are a crazy diverse crowd of folks who just want to dress up as shiny white spacemen (and women) and put smiles on faces.  Yes, some of us are bigger and/or taller than others, but despite our differences we have the same goal, to get out there and have fun as members of this great organization and promote others to do the same.

 

 

[Sly11[Admin]]

The rubber gloves is an interesting one.

In summer here in Queensland, it is hot and humid, so I don't wear my rubber gloves. In winter I do.

Recently one started to perish and became torn. Did that mean I could not troop even though approved at Centurion level!, of course not.

Our higher awards are awarded to the "member" for making the additional changes to their armour. You carry this award for life regardless of weather you still own that particular armour or have made a few changes to it.

Enjoy your trooping and make it as comfortable as you can so you can troop as long as you can.

[BDWC[TK]]

I was looking at the photo I posted and noted that the "belt line" did not look correct as the belt should just slightly overlap the ab button plate. So this looked a little high, and in turn put the intended separation line a little high. So I reattached the ammo belt to check, and it looks like I have more working room that I originally thought.
The red pencil line looks to be about my maximim flat area option, but I think if I cut at the gray pencil line then I would have the best of both flexibility and flat area for rebonding with ABS backing strips, should that time come.

Please chime in with any thoughts
Thanks!

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[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

This is probably best as a two person check on alignment when wearing, you will find the belt on the sides angles upwards towards the back and sits higher on the back so take that into consideration, I think I would trim the grey line if not a little higer.

 

Some references

 

 

 

Although the belt has dropped down on the rear notice you can just see the lower corner of the ab/cod which is not covered by the belt 

 

Some front and rear references for height

 

    

 

                         

 

Notice this one is cut just under the ridge but this was also to reduce the length of the ab/cod