SpacesNoTabs AP Stunt build

[SpacesNoTabs]

Tube stripe decals. That was super stressful putting them on!!

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[CableGuy[Admin]]

Tube stripe decals. That was super stressful putting them on!!

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Hi Chris,

Very neat. Good job.

Not sure if it’s the light but, are the right hand side ones (when worn) drifting away a little from the cheek at the front?

This might not be an issue for basic clearance but might be noticed at higher levels, so up to you if you want to correct it or not.

The other side looks super.



(Btw, if you use the “stand back, zoom in” technique for these photos, you’ll be able to see the tubestripes a little easier from the front. Example below:)

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Ran across a similar issue with a recruit, your stickers are salvageable with some care, I first used some thin masking tape and stuck on top of the tube stripes, then using a sharp razor blade or knife gently peel back the tops of the tube stripes, if lucky enough you should then be able to pull back and down withe the masking tape and they should all come with it, then just re-place and apply.

 

The other painstaking way would do them one at a time  

 

 

[SpacesNoTabs]

You are so right! Definitely veering the wrong direction. I'll carefully attempt a fix tomorrow. Thanks for the feedback!

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[CableGuy[Admin]]

You are so right! Definitely veering the wrong direction. I'll carefully attempt a fix tomorrow. Thanks for the feedback!

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No worries. We feel your pain - it’s a nightmare applying things to the curved surface of the cheeks. Stencils, decals, even regular masking tape is tricky to get it in the right place.

You got this.

[SpacesNoTabs]

I'm working on painting the vocoder. I can't find any visual references for what the underside of it should look like. Anyone have these handy?

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[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

2 minutes ago, SpacesNoTabs said:

I'm working on painting the vocoder. I can't find any visual references for what the underside of it should look like. Anyone have these handy?

       

 

Also https://www.starwarshelmets.com/original-ANH-Stunt-Stormtrooper-armor-helmets.htm 

 

 

[TKSpartan[Staff]]

Perhaps this references may help. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[SpacesNoTabs]

Thanks all! You're fast with those references! Exactly what I needed. Definitely a learning curve for the painting. Using a toothpick seems to be helping with the edges. Also, got my new decals coming from Trooperbay as I couldn't cleanly take the other ones off!

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[revlimiter[Staff]]

Slopping the paint on there and then carefully cleaning up the edges with a toothpick covered in a bit of thinner-soaked paper towel was my method. It worked well enough.

 

For very tiny fixes, I'd just dip the toothpick directly in the thinner and worry away the offending paint edge that way. That worked great on the frown.

[CableGuy[Admin]]

Here’s some more useful info on vocoders. :-)

https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/48252-anh-tk-vocoder-examples/

[SpacesNoTabs]

So I've been doing some touch up painting on the helmet and will send pics later. I started practicing doing snaps. This is dumb.

First off, when I use my soldering iron to try and seal the edges of the nylon, it just makes a sticky mess and doesn't really seal them well.

Secondly, I put a few snaps on and , obviously I need to work on my alignment issues, but even then snapping the two sides together is super difficult and getting them unsnapped is just as hard! In fact, while trying to pull one of the snaps off, it just started tearing the nylon. I am using Tandy line 24 snaps. Just using the snap setting tools with a hammer to set them. Any tips?

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[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Ok firstly use a lighter or stove top to seal the ends of the strapping, will work much better than using a soldering iron.

 

Some of the posts inside the snaps look offset, are you using a snap setting tool?, something like this. The best ones have 5 or 6 sides on the end that help open the post.

 

I had a really bad batch and ended up using a philips head screwdriver to open the post a little, thread here

 

 

 

[SpacesNoTabs]

I will try that! Also, what's a good starting place to begin attaching straps? 

[Doggydoc[Staff]]

Good to see you back posting.

 

I had the same issue with my Tandy snaps with the post bending.  I found that you need to be fairly gentle with the hammer strikes when you begin and rotate the snap tool slightly as you hit it to flare out the post on the snap.  Once you have it flared somewhat, then give it 2 or 3 good hits with the hammer but make sure that the post is perpendicular to the surface you are working on before hitting it.  
 

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

16 hours ago, SpacesNoTabs said:

I will try that! Also, what's a good starting place to begin attaching straps? 

I start with the thighs and torso, arms last as you should be fully kitted up to get those right  

 

Double snaps have saved me in the past when a shoulder strap lost a snap, if you are only going to use double snaps in some places I suggest shoulders, although double snaps everywhere is a good idea, just in case. 

 

[SpacesNoTabs]

I did another set of snaps tonight. One of them was better aligned, the other was not. The problem I am having is that when I snap the two ends together they are so hard to pull apart. To the point where if I pull too hard the nylon starts ripping. I am using the line 24 Tandy snaps. While, I think it's great they are secure, it's not going to work if I can barely take them apart. Do you think that's the nature of the snaps themselves, or is it because I'm not setting them correctly? Or maybe it's the nylon I have is super crappy. I thought what I got was same as what others are using but maybe I cheaped out! 

Edited July 19, 2022 by SpacesNoTabs

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

6 hours ago, SpacesNoTabs said:

I did another set of snaps tonight. One of them was better aligned, the other was not. The problem I am having is that when I snap the two ends together they are so hard to pull apart. To the point where if I pull too hard the nylon starts ripping. I am using the line 24 Tandy snaps. While, I think it's great they are secure, it's not going to work if I can barely take them apart. Do you think that's the nature of the snaps themselves, or is it because I'm not setting them correctly? Or maybe it's the nylon I have is super crappy. I thought what I got was same as what others are using but maybe I cheaped out! 

I've used different brands in the past, some have been quite hard to get apart but can't say I've had any want to pull through nylon though, although I have had them do that with elastic. Make sure you aren't making the holes with the soldering iron too big. Another trick is to apply some E6000 to the whole to make it a little stiffer, leave overnight then apply the snaps the next day.

[Doggydoc[Staff]]

The photo of your nylon looks fairly thin. I have nylon strapping and it is very strong when pulling the snaps. 
 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Also if you make a guide from some plastic then all your straps and snap plates should be the same if you need to swap any out  

 

 

[SpacesNoTabs]

Good to know @Doggydoc. Perhaps I'll need to upgrade. My wife sure has been patient with me as the cash keeps being funneled into this armor 

 

Great idea about the template @gmrhodes13! Definitely going to do that. 

[SpacesNoTabs]

I apologize for the constant despairing posts. I compare myself to other builds and everyone seems to be getting this more than I do. Anyway, I just put my second set of decals on the right side. Originally they were moving away on the front. This time they're moving away on the back. Sigh.

I was too worried about my lack of painting experience so I went with the decals where I could. Honestly, those were more of a pain to put on than I anticipated. I might take them off at some point and paint.

I've got a couple coats on the vocoder and one on the teeth. Let me know where I need to fix things. I bought an s-trim that I'll put on when I get the screws painted. Are the screws countersunk enough for Centurion?

The lens material got a couple small bends in it so I'm either gonna have to buy some new stuff or see if I can cut out enough of the existing for the eye holes and use the sugrue method.



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[CableGuy[Admin]]

Nice job on the vocoder and the frown paint.

Are you hovi-tips painted black? If so, you could lightly sand the front edge (rim) to reveal some of the white (or lighter colour) below. As per these photos, the screen used hovi-tips generally had a worn rim, leaving a lighter appearance.






Regarding your strapping, I don’t think I’ve seen anyone use nylon for the internal strapping before. Have you had a chance to wear any of the armour yet? I’d be a little concerned that the nylon will not give your armour any flexibility, hence elastic usually being used for the internal straps. Elastic allows a little movement before pressure is applied to the snaps.
How is it feeling so far?

[SpacesNoTabs]

The Hovi-tips came painted so I'll see about sanding them some.  

 

I was using 

 as a reference for doing the snaps.  Seemed to indicate using nylon but perhaps I didn't read all the way through.  I have a butt-ton of nylon strapping now ha ha

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

16 minutes ago, SpacesNoTabs said:

The Hovi-tips came painted so I'll see about sanding them some.  

 

I was using as a reference for doing the snaps.  Seemed to indicate using nylon but perhaps I didn't read all the way through.  I have a butt-ton of nylon strapping now ha ha

Nice work, you can use either nylon or elastic, I use nylon for the snap plates but for the strapping itself I just find elastic allows a bit of give when moving around, nylon would be a little restricting. No doubt try it when you are kitted up and moving/extending arms and legs  NOTE if you read through that thread others mention using elastic for give  

 

I see what you mean by stripes moving away at the back, I doubt this would be an issue for basic approval but may come up at higher levels, perhaps the @Deployment Officer Team could chime in.

 

What I do is measure on some tape the width of a pencil, then apply the tape to the helmet, you adjust to get the gap just right then apply decals. An old hobby trick was to use soapy water when applying, you can move the decal's around then push out the soapy water and pat dry.