Ebio Amisi[TK] Posted February 11, 2022 Author Report Posted February 11, 2022 Is it acceptable to do the scope rub thing on the counter logo here?Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted February 11, 2022 Report Posted February 11, 2022 3 hours ago, Ebio Amisi said: Is it acceptable to do the scope rub thing on the counter logo here? A few used to weather that area but can't say I've seen that on any recent centurion applications. From references you don't really see any weathering there. Ultimately it would be up to the @Deployment Officer Team 1 Quote
Ebio Amisi[TK] Posted February 11, 2022 Author Report Posted February 11, 2022 A few used to weather that area but can't say I've seen that on any recent centurion applications. From references you don't really see any weathering there. Ultimately it would be up to the [mention=39088]Deployment Officer Team[/mention] Thanks for the feedback, Thought that might be the case - I will leave it as it is!Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote
Ebio Amisi[TK] Posted February 11, 2022 Author Report Posted February 11, 2022 Helmet 99% finished - quite proud of how it has turned out.I’m fiddling around with padding etc but also trying to get the weight distribution sorted.The battery pack (now an 80g lipstick) is at the back of the helmet and, despite my chinstrap, it pulls the helmet back some.I was thinking of use lead weights at the front behind the Hovi tips to balance it better.Has anyone tried similar or got a better tip?Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted February 11, 2022 Report Posted February 11, 2022 5 minutes ago, Ebio Amisi said: Helmet 99% finished - quite proud of how it has turned out. I’m fiddling around with padding etc but also trying to get the weight distribution sorted. The battery pack (now an 80g lipstick) is at the back of the helmet and, despite my chinstrap, it pulls the helmet back some. I was thinking of use lead weights at the front behind the Hovi tips to balance it better. Has anyone tried similar or got a better tip? I use a block of foam on each side which fits snugly against the side of my head, this stops any wobbling or tilting, may work. Not my helmet but similar padding A few others with side padding 1 Quote
Ebio Amisi[TK] Posted February 12, 2022 Author Report Posted February 12, 2022 His little crack has appeared - I’ve put superglue behind it to strength it and stop it from growing but I’m not sure how to deal with the paint that has gotten into the crack.Would the paint I used (humbrol) for the ear screws be ok?Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
Ebio Amisi[TK] Posted February 12, 2022 Author Report Posted February 12, 2022 E-11 holster for the carry case finished!Just waiting on the glue to drySent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted February 12, 2022 Report Posted February 12, 2022 3 hours ago, Ebio Amisi said: His little crack has appeared - I’ve put superglue behind it to strength it and stop it from growing but I’m not sure how to deal with the paint that has gotten into the crack. Would the paint I used (humbrol) for the ear screws be ok? That's a weird spot for a crack or two by the looks.of it. Any white paimt should help. Adding some sugru or ABS paste behind will help it to not crack further. 1 Quote
justjoseph63[Staff] Posted February 12, 2022 Report Posted February 12, 2022 Yeah, I've never seen a crack in that area before. I would go with Glen's suggestion of painting it using enamel paint and a very thin artist's brush. It may take a coat or two, but you should be in good shape after that. 1 Quote
Ebio Amisi[TK] Posted February 14, 2022 Author Report Posted February 14, 2022 Found another small crack whilst trying to fix the first one.This only appears if I push down the lower part of the eye socket.I’ve got Sugru / Milliput reinforceing the interior of the eye socket but this doesn’t appear to be helping.Do you think that this could have anything to do with the lens system I have in place?Also, would it be sensible to try and fix this with superglue and then sand it down?I’m a little worried as it is front facing and I don’t want to ruin all the work I’ve done getting the helmet to this point.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
justjoseph63[Staff] Posted February 15, 2022 Report Posted February 15, 2022 Unless you remove the lenses first I would avoid superglue, Ben. The reason being is that the fumes will adhere to the surface of them and permanently cloud them up. The cracks are so small I honestly think some white Sugru pushed into them with all the excess wiped off may do the trick. If it doesn't look right to you, it can be removed with a dental pick before it dries. Quote
Ebio Amisi[TK] Posted February 15, 2022 Author Report Posted February 15, 2022 Unless you remove the lenses first I would avoid superglue, Ben. The reason being is that the fumes will adhere to the surface of them and permanently cloud them up. The cracks are so small I honestly think some white Sugru pushed into them with all the excess wiped off may do the trick. If it doesn't look right to you, it can be removed with a dental pick before it dries. The lens are fully removable - will give both a try.Sure it will be fine!Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
Ebio Amisi[TK] Posted February 21, 2022 Author Report Posted February 21, 2022 Okey Dokey, down to the last little bits. I'm trying to fix the gap between the shoulder bells and the chest armour/bands. I've checked to see if i should shorten the strapping from the bell to the band but it is already very short and when connected, touches together: so i'm not sure that shortening it any further will will fix the issue. I've checked to see if the bell out edge needs to be flush/trimmed at all and it has already been done: The only thing i can think to do at this stage is to trim the bottom edge of the bell but i'm not sure if this is a good idea/allowed? Can anyone offer any advice? 1 Quote
TKSpartan[Staff] Posted February 21, 2022 Report Posted February 21, 2022 5 hours ago, Ebio Amisi said: The only thing i can think to do at this stage is to trim the bottom edge of the bell but i'm not sure if this is a good idea/allowed? Trimming the Shoulder bells return edge allow then to sit close to the Chest armor and we always suggest this to fix the gap and is accurate too. Some reference images keep up the great work, almost there! Quote
Ebio Amisi[TK] Posted February 21, 2022 Author Report Posted February 21, 2022 40 minutes ago, TKSpartan said: Trimming the Shoulder bells return edge allow then to sit close to the Chest armor and we always suggest this to fix the gap and is accurate too. Some reference images keep up the great work, almost there! Awesome - I will get them trimmed down them! Would you suggest i put a bit of fluffy velcro on the inside once done to stop it scratching? Quote
TKSpartan[Staff] Posted February 21, 2022 Report Posted February 21, 2022 2 minutes ago, Ebio Amisi said: Would you suggest i put a bit of fluffy velcro on the inside once done to stop it scratching? IMO it's not necessary, I have not seen that there is much friction in that section. I my case, just sand it fine and it will work well. 1 Quote
Ebio Amisi[TK] Posted February 26, 2022 Author Report Posted February 26, 2022 Okey Dokey... I think I've done it! Here is my latest suit up: Do you think I should submit for Centurion now? FYI - I am in the process of getting new gloves but i understnad that the ones i have at the moment will pass. Also I will make sure to take all the additional pictures for submission before putting forward in the main application Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted February 26, 2022 Report Posted February 26, 2022 You may have to fix that gap in the sides of your Ab and kidney, at present yours is open on the bottom but closed on the top, tighter strapping may help L2 Any gap between the abdomen and kidney armor is no more than 1/2" (12.5mm) wide L3 Ideally there no gap between the abdomen and kidney armor. I would bring your forearms down a little, they are hitting/overlapping the biceps Can see a strap on this side of your backplate, may want to adjust that, may get picked but up to DO's Also shins not completely closed on the back, again entirely up to the DO's Quote
Ebio Amisi[TK] Posted February 26, 2022 Author Report Posted February 26, 2022 You may have to fix that gap in the sides of your Ab and kidney, at present yours is open on the bottom but closed on the top, tighter strapping may help L2 Any gap between the abdomen and kidney armor is no more than 1/2" (12.5mm) wide L3 Ideally there no gap between the abdomen and kidney armor. I would bring your forearms down a little, they are hitting/overlapping the biceps Can see a strap on this side of your backplate, may want to adjust that, may get picked but up to DO's Also shins not completely closed on the back, again entirely up to the DO'sThanks for taking a look at this The ab/kidney gap has improved with the weight loss over the last couple of months. I believe I am within the gap permitted by the CRL now.The forearm bit I hadn’t noticed, so will take a look at this. It might be that it is just how I have put the armour on (shoving the glove up inside it!)The strapping is from my new thigh armour suspension and I’d had some other issues with it whilst suiting up so was going to fix/remove this anyway.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote
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