justjoseph63[Staff] Posted January 6, 2022 Report Posted January 6, 2022 So here is the plan- I recently built a spare ANH E-11 from one of Bryan's crazy accurate 3D kits, (link here), but since I will need a blaster for my current ESB armor build I will eventually need a weapon, so I decided to convert it. In looking at the reference photos here, there are 2 main versions- one using an actual Sterling L2A3 and a resin type (Pugman). Note that there are also some really odd versions, but I am not sure of their background so I am not referencing them. Because I will be using the ANH version, mine will be a based on the Sterling. IMPORTANT! For those doing an ESB build, there are 2 versions of this blaster that can be used for approval. Neither has the Hengstler counter or power cylinders, and the differences can be found in the CRL here. This version is just more involved. Sterling L2A3 version Resin cast "Pugman" version (note scope rail) Materials: 1. JB Plastic Weld epoxy putty- When dry, this can be sanded, drilled and painted. AWESOME stuff! 2. Bondo Glazing/spot putty*** (for a smoother finish). 3. Sandpaper (various grits- 80 to 400) 4. Needle files 5. Dremel type rotary tool 6. Sanding drums 1. 2. 4. 5. 6. *** Please be aware that this product should only be used outdoors or in a well ventilated area. It is also highly suggested that you use a mask and gloves. All that being said, time to get down to business. In addition to the greeblies, there are a few issues on the main body that will need to be addressed: The first thing to do is grind off the end muzzle disc, as most of the references do not show one present. After removing the disc, I filled the holes where the screws were with the Plastic Weld putty (sorry, I lost the pics of the filled part), let it dry 4-5 hours and then filed/sanded it down. A thin coat of the glazing putty made it perfectly smooth. Note that I put the new holes in the top/bottom as opposed to the sides. Before References After grinding Finished After removing the D-ring/mounting plate**, some glazing putty, sanding and paint made for a smooth finish. **You may be able to pop it off with some pliers, but I had to grind mine down. The only other alteration I made to the body was to remove the small tubular part that holds the grub screw on the side of the magazine well. After Dremeling (is that even a word? lol) it off level and filling the hole with the Plastic weld, it was sanded and painted. Before References Detail- (This is from my ROTJ build, but it gives you an idea of what to remove. Keep the triangle part. Finished Next up, the greeblies... stay tuned 8 Quote
justjoseph63[Staff] Posted January 7, 2022 Author Report Posted January 7, 2022 Okay, time for the greeblies- I looked everywhere online for these, including Etsy, RPF etc. No luck. Seems strange that no one makes these (at least as accurate as I wanted) so after referencing and comparing the sizes from the official photos I ended up sculpting my own versions. I then made silicone molds and cast them in resin. Are they 100% perfect or exactly film accurate? Nope, but for my purposes I am happy with the way they turned out. Starting with the one on the front of the scope rail: According to this site, it was a button from a Sony Cassette Corder model TC-67. I don't think so. Sort of close, but no cigar. Here are the references from the ESB E-11 reference thread I went by- This is what I ended up with. Rear of the scope rail: No sites even attempt to explain what the heck these were, so I had to go by the references and hope for the best. References My version For the left side they used rebar clips, but after searching worldwide I don't think theses particular ones have been made in a LONG time. With the assistance of @ticopowell (THANKS, Caleb... you ROCK!) I ended up designing my own version, had them 3D printed, filled/smoothed them and cast them in resin. References My version The other right hand side greeb is this one. Fortunately, my local hardware store was having a sale on Boba Fett blaster pieces so I scored on this one. I am just kidding. Back to the sculpting board. References My version Now for the right hand side greebs. Pretty straightforward stuff here- A "swoosh" cut out of ABS and some buttons made from ABS. I made the buttons concave on one side to conform to the shape of the barrel. Last up is the scope. If using the Promo version, as per the CRL for Level 2 it must be the M-19 type. There are some pretty darned good ones you can find cast in resin (links below), but I decided to go with the metal version I found here (shown below). A great seller who I have bought a ton of stuff from. Resin versions- (link here and here). Next up, painting and mounting everything! 6 Quote
justjoseph63[Staff] Posted January 7, 2022 Author Report Posted January 7, 2022 Now to finish up.. The front/rear scope greebs have been CA (super) glued on, and to keep them secure I added wood screws from underneath. I countersunk the holes slightly to where the screw head would be flush with the bottom of the rail and would not be noticeable. For the rebar clips, I went with slotted pan head screws, as they look like the ones in the reference images. Reference Pan head (slotted) Finished product The screw on the rectangle greeb is a round-head star screw. I looked all over, but this is the closest I could come. CA glue added to keep it from twisting. The buttons and "swoop" were simply CA glued on. And here it is. I will painting the brass grip screw black and weathering it slightly as soon as the paint cures. Epilogue: Are there details that are not "ideal"? Absolutely. Will it pass at Centurion? I like to believe so, lol. Are there things that I would do differently? Probably, but I'm pretty pleased with the end result. Thanks for looking!! Since I have the molds now, if anyone wants a set of these greebs I can hook you up for around 11 bucks (including the screws and postage). PM me for more info. (Not shown actual size) NEXT UP! ROTJ build... EDIT: Completed ROTJ build can be found here. 8 Quote
TKSpartan[Staff] Posted January 7, 2022 Report Posted January 7, 2022 Awesome work , congratulations ! 1 Quote
revlimiter[Staff] Posted January 7, 2022 Report Posted January 7, 2022 Extremely cool! I was today years old when I learned all the ESB E11 differences. 1 Quote
T-Jay[TK] Posted January 8, 2022 Report Posted January 8, 2022 What a beauty, Joseph. Looks very good. 1 Quote
justjoseph63[Staff] Posted January 8, 2022 Author Report Posted January 8, 2022 15 hours ago, revlimiter said: I was today years old when I learned all the ESB E11 differences. Just wait until you see the ROTJ version I have been plugging away at. WAY more involved... (I really do need to get a life). 2 Quote
Bulldog44[TK] Posted January 10, 2022 Report Posted January 10, 2022 Looks fantastic! I need to build one of these now. Quote
MaskedVengeance[Staff] Posted January 10, 2022 Report Posted January 10, 2022 Looks fantastic! I need to build one of these now. I know, right?! Joseph keeps adding to my to do-list. Lol.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
justjoseph63[Staff] Posted January 10, 2022 Author Report Posted January 10, 2022 29 minutes ago, Bulldog44 said: Looks fantastic! I need to build one of these now. Thanks! This is what comes from having entirely too much time on my hands and an overindulgence in diet Mountain Dew. 1 Quote
Infern0[TK] Posted February 6, 2022 Report Posted February 6, 2022 This is sweet @justjoseph63! Just finishing putting together my promo pipe build as well. Forgot to remove that wee pipe on the magwell so thank you for the reminder 1 Quote
trooper96[501st] Posted February 16, 2022 Report Posted February 16, 2022 On 1/7/2022 at 11:22 AM, justjoseph63 said: And here it is. I will painting the brass grip screw black and weathering it slightly as soon as the paint cures. Sir, that looks amazing! 1 Quote
justjoseph63[Staff] Posted February 16, 2022 Author Report Posted February 16, 2022 Thanks, Bryan.. I couldn't have done it without your awesome kit! 1 Quote
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