revlimiter's Quest Design E11 build

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

The product I use (for the exact same reason) on the electrobinoculars I make is Rustoleum 2X clear coat, but be sure to get the Matte finish.

 

[revlimiter[Staff]]

Thanks Joseph! Matte finish clear is secured.

[revlimiter[Staff]]

I FINISHED MY BLASTER!!!!!!!!!!!  Time for a self-indulgent photo set with a decent camera.

 

Overview:

 

 

 

 

 

Front:

 

 

 

Rear:

 

 

 

Power Cylinders:

 

 

Grip / T-Tracks: (painted semi-gloss)

 

 

Folding Stock:

 

 

 

What a fun project!  Man, I never knew there was so much to learn about the E-11.  Now to troop around with it.

 

Huge thanks to everyone who helped and followed along.

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

This has come out a treat great work.

 

It may be the photo but appears your henglster might be on a slight angle.

 

[revlimiter[Staff]]

Thanks!! 

 

It's the photo. I obsessed over the counter level. It's aligned exactly flat relative to the top barrel surface. 

[Doggydoc[Staff]]

Awesome job. Fun thread to follow. 

[Scimitar[TK]]

Looks amazing! Hope you're ready for Round 2!

[revlimiter[Staff]]

 

4 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:

This has come out a treat great work.

 

It may be the photo but appears your henglster might be on a slight angle.

 

 

 

While I *did* check it for level last week, I discovered today that the counter has a bit of adjustability in how it's mounted. It can angle a few degrees with a little force. And now it's straight again.

 

Thanks for the keen eye!

 

 

1 hour ago, Scimitar said:

Looks amazing! Hope you're ready for Round 2!

 

I might post round 2 here!

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

That is the nicest looking E-11 I have seen in a long, long time, Adam, and thanks for this tutorial!.  All that hard work and attention to detail has paid off in spades and is certain to be the envy on future troops!  I'm not a Doctor (nor do I play one on TV) but I think I can officially diagnose you with OCTKD disorder.    Welcome to the club!

[MaskedVengeance[Staff]]

I’ll echo what others have said that this truly is an amazing finished product. Excellent work! You really may need to do a second blaster so that you can display one safely away from drop-risk troops. Haha.


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[T-Jay[TK]]

Hey Adam, congratulations for getting this blaster done. It turned out really good.

 

Great photos taken and nice to see an E-11 with those recent ANH greeblies.

 

You heard the crowd: we are ready for your next one.

[CableGuy[TK]]

Nice work, Adam. That’s an E-11 to be proud of.

[revlimiter[Staff]]

Thank you all! I'm feeling the love. But huge thanks to @T-Jay and @justjoseph63 .  This blaster would be nothing like how it turned out without the two of you. 

 

@Scimitar is sending me his Quest Design E-11 for metal folding stock fitment.  And I'll need a place to post pix. Might as well put them in here.

[Bulldog44[TK]]

Excellent work on the blaster mods. Looks great. 

[Sly11[Admin]]

Sure does look perdy!

Amazing work Adam.

[Imperialsupplydrop]

Wow very clean and 501st approved?


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[revlimiter[Staff]]

I got @Scimitar's blaster in the mail, did the build, and shipped it back to Eric... and I managed to not post the photos.  I'll just share the finished ones instead of the build. It's another Quest Design using identical parts, so they'd be slightly different angles of the same build photos.

 

Parts added/changed:

- Real folding stock from @justjoseph63

- Replica Hengstler counter from BlasterFactory.com

- Greeblie kit from @justjoseph63

- Some spare upgrade kit parts from @T-Jay

- Scratch build sight box

- weathering and clear coat

 

This would look a lot like the before photo. I added some brass weathering to the scope and gave everything a ton of clearcoat. The whole blaster got 6 coats of matte clear. The T-tracks and grip got an additional coat of semi-gloss clear. Then the grip got 2 more coats of gloss clear.  Sounds like a lot, but the finish is really lovely.

 

I built a sight box using the same stuff I did on mine. Even got to use another of T-jay's threaded rods!

 

 

I built new capacitors from left over T-Jay stock. There was exactly enough for the two guns. Top scope greeblie from Joseph is looking mighty fine.

 

 

The counter is a reproduction piece from blasterfactory and is really fantastic. Eric wanted the same Miata odometer guts that I used in mine, as he's also deep in the Roadster cult.

 

 

The back side of the counter is open showing the labeling. Rather cool feature.

 

 

Awwww yeah!

 

The folding stock from Joseph and sight box build were the reasons I was doing this build. Since everything was fresh in my mind and all the tools were handy, this took about 25% of the time that my first one required.

 

 

Both blasters fresh from factory rebuild.  Eric's up top, mine on the bottom.

 

 

From the same assembly line.

 

 

Ready for action.

[Scimitar[TK]]

Words do not begin to describe how well this turned out or how much I appreciate you knocking my blaster out too! I already enjoyed having this blaster on display when I'm not trooping with it, this just took it to the next level all around. Thank you Adam!!

[revlimiter[Staff]]

And here we are again.  Just when I thought I was done, they pull me back in.

 

@Hideya's excellent Disney blaster thread inspired me to take my Quest Design a little further.  I found an unboxed Disney Parks blaster for $26 shipped on ebay and harvested the guts. It makes the most fantastic pew-pew noises and has blast and stun settings. SOOOO awesome. I need my pretty blaster to make noises.  Every time I've trooped someone has commented on how pretty it was and asked if the blaster made noise. I had to dejectedly say "no" each time.

 

No longer. I'm making my blaster go pew-pew if it kills me. And it.

 

HOW to make the trigger work on this pre-built Quest Design? That's been my struggle for the past few weeks. I could hack things out of the handle and somehow make it work... but I'd probably need to remove the handle/grip to do it. I'd certainly be weakening things. And what if the trigger action wasn't very satisfying or very reliable? What if a switch broke and I had to dig back inside the hacked apart blaster?

 

It seemed like the best way to do this in my own particular build was with a whole new grip. And Blaster Factory sells the grip by itself for about $90.

 

 

This hunk of metal and plastic is gorgeous. I thought my resin stuff was decent. This is quite another level. The desire to go ahead and build a whole metal blaster is very much there, but I want to see how far I can Frankenstein my QD before I do another.

 

I had to strip it down of course. How could I not? It comes apart and goes back together in a very satisfying manner. If a switch dies sometime in the future I'll be able to fix it without affecting the integrity of the blaster more than I'm gonna in the next few days.

 

The grip comes with switches pre-installed. I just have to wire them up.

 

I also have to take a dremel, saw, and other tools to my very pretty E-11. I'm a little worried.

 

To do:

- Remove stock handle/grip/trigger. Carefully.

- Create a passage for wiring.

- Create access for the BF grip screw attachment. Probably cutting out the bolt.

- Install BF grip.

- Find a place for the speaker. Probably in the counter.

- Find space for the uber-tiny control board. Probably in the bolt hollow.

- Create a new bolt.

- Question my sanity.

- Find space for the batteries. It's very very narrow inside the QD.

- Wire everything up.

- Put blaster back together.

- Re-pretty the blaster.

[T-Jay[TK]]

Wow, this grip is outstanding. Keeping fingers crossed for your new modification.

 

3 hours ago, revlimiter said:

(...)   - Find a place for the speaker. Probably in the counter.   (...)

 

Or inside the end cap, so the sound can escape easier through the charging handle slot. Bear in mind, the Disney electronics are not that loud.

 

3 hours ago, revlimiter said:

(...)   - Find space for the batteries. It's very very narrow inside the QD.   (...)

 

Maybe this works for you:

In case it does, here is a link to how I installed the exact same electronics into my E-11.

Edited April 9, 2022 by T-Jay

[Doggydoc[Staff]]

This looks awesome.

[revlimiter[Staff]]

9 hours ago, T-Jay said:

Wow, this grip is outstanding. Keeping fingers crossed for your new modification.

 

 

Or inside the end cap, so the sound can escape easier through the charging handle slot. Bear in mind, the Disney electronics are not that loud.

 

 

Maybe this works for you:

In case it does, here is a link to how I installed the exact same electronics into my E-11.

 

The problem with the Quest Design is the very very small inner area. It has a thick wall PVC pipe in the center which reduces the inner bolt diameter to only 20mm. The Disney sepaker is a bit over 28mm. I could definitely clear out some space for the speaker in the end cap.. and I might. But I was considering the counter since half of mine is still hollow and has a really nice vent area in the front.

 

And also, I've been drooling over that Lucky 11 build, Tino. SO GORGEOUS! And a huge help for me with these same electronics.

 

[T-Jay[TK]]

Thanks Adam.

 

After reading about your specific blaster, I would now agree to use the hollowed counter for the electronics.

The mentioned vent slots will also help for good sound and that is even better, if you hold the grip with your left hand, so the sound can travel straight to the folks.

Edited April 10, 2022 by T-Jay

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

I add a 3.5mm audio socket to most of my blasters and props, especially the ones that I can't fit a speaker inside, from the jack a cable runs up our arm and comes out at the neck and then down to the Aker amp in the chest, nice and loud for large noisy events, just means you have to remember to thread the cable through when putting on your undersuit. When the blaster is not in use I just fold the cable into the forearm. 

 

[revlimiter[Staff]]

I got busy and managed to not update things here yet.

 

This is the tiny circuit board inside the Disney blaster. It's about 20mm wide which juuuuust fits inside my QD blaster's small inner recess. Not sure if this diagram would be helpful to anyone else in the future, but I referred to it a lot while rewiring the board.

 

 

And just like that, the old handle is off. It was almost that easy. I used a dremel cut off wheel and sliced through about half of one side, waiting to hit some sparks. No sparks ever appeared, making me think that only glue held the handle in place. Sure enough, there weren't any pins. I snapped the handle off easily by hand after slicing what I sliced.

 

I think this may have broken at some point in the future anyway. I'm amazed it was only glued on.  Also, pretty happy with the low amount of gouges I managed to make. They'll be easy to fill.

 

Bolt cut. This gives me access to allow the handle to be bolted in place.

 

The inner plastic on the QD is SOOOO thick. It just insane.

 

Not letting any grass grow under my feet. The handle bolted on easily for a test fit. About 20 minutes of careful measuring followed by two holes and a slot for wires.  My blaster was only without a handle for a half hour.

 

Front bolt attachment. SUPER easy access with this nice big hole. I'll also fit the pew-pew brain in this hollow.

 

The rear bolt is a lot more challenging to get to, but a rounded end hex key makes easy work of it. The angle is just right to let things spin and tighten up.

 

This grip is so pretty! So very very pretty. Even without pew-pew noises, this is a solid upgrade already.