FN1313[TK] Posted March 23, 2023 Report Posted March 23, 2023 So I think I did a few things backwards, and will have to figure out how to resolve it, but the fronts are done. Now to attach the sniper knee and figure out the backs/enclosure What things do you think you did backwards?Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
jsilvius[Staff] Posted March 23, 2023 Author Report Posted March 23, 2023 2 minutes ago, FN1313 said: What things do you think you did backwards? Compared to my first build, on this one I didn't measure and cut the backs before I put the inner and out strips on the front. So now that the front is done and the sniper knee glue is setting on the left leg. I will now have to figure out how to size up the back and get the velcro done. So I am a bit worried I put the cart before the horse. We'll see. Quote
FN1313[TK] Posted March 23, 2023 Report Posted March 23, 2023 Compared to my first build, on this one I didn't measure and cut the backs before I put the inner and out strips on the front. So now that the front is done and the sniper knee glue is setting on the left leg. I will now have to figure out how to size up the back and get the velcro done. So I am a bit worried I put the cart before the horse. We'll see. From my understanding with shins, the front should be 10mm from return edge on each side, so you’d essentially be measuring how it fits from the back side remnants as is for the best look. I trimmed and glued the fronts at that 10mm per side 20mm cover strip and haven’t sized them up on my calves yet either.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote
jsilvius[Staff] Posted March 24, 2023 Author Report Posted March 24, 2023 Sniper knee on left shin, rear cover strip on right shin. Now to add rear cover strip to left shin, and work on the enclosure for them.After this, pack more Celebration patches, and start getting ready for Galaxy Con Richmond this weekend.Sent from my SM-N981U1 using Tapatalk Quote
jsilvius[Staff] Posted March 24, 2023 Author Report Posted March 24, 2023 Sniper knee popped when I tried to open the shins for setting the cover strip, so they are now both glued (cover and sniper knee) and hopefully will set and dry before tomorrow morning. Sent from my SM-N981U1 using Tapatalk 1 Quote
FN1313[TK] Posted March 25, 2023 Report Posted March 25, 2023 Sniper knee popped when I tried to open the shins for setting the cover strip, so they are now both glued (cover and sniper knee) and hopefully will set and dry before tomorrow morning. Sent from my SM-N981U1 using TapatalkFrom what I’ve heard some of the areas where there’s more bend it’s best to let it cure 72 hours before working with stretching and bending. I’m working on my shins but I will likely do the back cover strips 72 hours after the front ones and then the sniper knee after that.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
justjoseph63[Staff] Posted March 25, 2023 Report Posted March 25, 2023 5 hours ago, FN1313 said: From what I’ve heard some of the areas where there’s more bend it’s best to let it cure 72 hours before working with stretching and bending. I’m working on my shins but I will likely do the back cover strips 72 hours after the front ones and then the sniper knee after that. I always glue/attach the inside cover strips first, and suggest making them wider than the outsides. The reason being is that there is a lot of strain on those seams from opening the calves when suiting up and that will add some extra strength to the join. Another tip is to sand down all surfaces to be glued with heavy grit sandpaper, which gives the glue a better surface to adhere to (be sure to clean them thoroughly after sanding). Be careful on the outside ridges when sanding as to not scratch your armor. 2 Quote
FN1313[TK] Posted March 25, 2023 Report Posted March 25, 2023 I always glue/attach the inside cover strips first, and suggest making them wider than the outsides. The reason being is that there is a lot of strain on those seams from opening the calves when suiting up and that will add some extra strength to the join. Another tip is to sand down all surfaces to be glued with heavy grit sandpaper, which gives the glue a better surface to adhere to (be sure to clean them thoroughly after sanding). Be careful on the outside ridges when sanding as to not scratch your armor. I’ve been using 3m scotchbrite to rough up the areas and hope it keeps doing as well as it has.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
jsilvius[Staff] Posted January 21 Author Report Posted January 21 So after a super busy year, and my old ATA kit holding up (with a few part swaps), I'm back on the build. Next up, the TD. Something simple that I can do while watch playoff football. Plus Dave basically builds them for you. Some slight trimming, some light sanding, and a bit of gluing. Since I was in a rush to get my first one built and I didn't know about EI or Centurion, This time I'm going to try for Centurion, but at a minimum EI. So at @MaskedVengeance suggestion, I'm following @DTKC and @A.J. Hamler build guides. So one with the pictures.... Need to let it cure and then adding the ends and clips. 2 Quote
jsilvius[Staff] Posted January 21 Author Report Posted January 21 Well other than painting the screw heads black, I'm calling the TD done. Roughly - 20 mm edge caps 13mm between the edges 121mm control/button board 184mm in total length Next up I think will be the Bucket. I'm read to replace my ATA helmet. The interior is to small to install fans and the last two troops I really could have used them. 1 Quote
jsilvius[Staff] Posted January 21 Author Report Posted January 21 So next up. The Helmet. As I said, my ATA helmet is great, but it seems a bit small compared to others. I have not been able to install the fans and the battery pack in it without feeling like I couldn't get the helmet on or off. So Let's get this going. Starting out like I did with my son's taking the Dremel and sanding out the teeth. And then I'll use the X-acto knife to clean them up. 1 Quote
jsilvius[Staff] Posted February 4 Author Report Posted February 4 Time to set the helmet aside. We have a troop in 6 days. So I can always use my ATA bucket. Today is Thigh day. As I have already completed the shins, I need to get the Thighs done so that The lower half is complete and I can give my son back his RS Props Thighs for his ESB. I found a post that @MaskedVengeance linked that said the cover strips for the thighs were 20mm, so that is what we went with (hopefully this is will meet EI requirements). Here are some pictures of progress. 3 Quote
justjoseph63[Staff] Posted February 4 Report Posted February 4 20mm is good for the front. The backs should be the same but can be a little wider if needed. 1 Quote
MaskedVengeance[Staff] Posted February 4 Report Posted February 4 Yup yup yup. As Joseph said.15mm arms (front, and back if possible).20mm thighs (front, and back if possible)20mm shins (front)25mm thighs (back, if possible)Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
Sithping[TK] Posted February 4 Report Posted February 4 I always found this diagram helpful too. 2 Quote
jsilvius[Staff] Posted February 5 Author Report Posted February 5 1 hour ago, Sithping said: I always found this diagram helpful too. Thank you Paul, that's awesome. 1 Quote
MaskedVengeance[Staff] Posted February 5 Report Posted February 5 Yeah the base of the image is Anovos' armor diagram, and then Tony (ukswrath) added in the measurements for this AWESOME thread HERE. I also slightly modified them to remove the round numbers to make the images less busy when I used them on my thread. 3 Quote
jsilvius[Staff] Posted February 7 Author Report Posted February 7 One done, one drying/curing. Next up cover strips.Sent from my SM-N981U1 using Tapatalk 3 Quote
jsilvius[Staff] Posted February 7 Author Report Posted February 7 Next question for you DO types (and @MaskedVengeance ). Do the thighs require return edges for EI? My thighs are a bit tall, and I was hoping to maybe trim the tops down some, following the curves, but leaving them with out return edges. Quote
MaskedVengeance[Staff] Posted February 7 Report Posted February 7 Trim away at the tops, James! Many do that simply for comfort, especially on the inner halves of the thighs. I've kinda kept a hybrid where the returns are gone on the inner thigh area, and then tapered them out to thin return edges on the outer thighs. That being said, before too long I may take the returns completely off. I'll let the DOs give the final word though. Also here are two of my fav return edge and reference threads by our new DL! https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/48166-return-edges-101-ottk/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/48335-quick-crl-reference-guide-for-your-ot-build-pics-notes-tips/#comment-673658 1 Quote
TKSpartan[Staff] Posted February 7 Report Posted February 7 5 hours ago, jsilvius said: Do the thighs require return edges for EI? Quick answer. No required. Just in case you haven't seen this thread about trimming the thighs 1 Quote
jsilvius[Staff] Posted February 9 Author Report Posted February 9 Don't think I'll have them done for the event this weekend, but they are getting closer. Need the ammo belt and strapping. Sent from my SM-N981U1 using Tapatalk 2 Quote
jsilvius[Staff] Posted February 9 Author Report Posted February 9 I think they look good. Just have to figure out ammo belt placement. Does this look right? Does this look right? Sent from my SM-N981U1 using Tapatalk Quote
TKSpartan[Staff] Posted February 9 Report Posted February 9 10 minutes ago, jsilvius said: think they look good. Just have to figure out ammo belt placement. Does this look right? Just a quick note. If if not a mirror image, the ammo pack goes in the right thigh. 1 Quote
jsilvius[Staff] Posted February 9 Author Report Posted February 9 1 minute ago, TKSpartan said: Just a quick note. If if not a mirror image, the ammo pack goes in the right thigh. smh... thank you Mario. Happy I didn't drill and rivet. I was looking at them wrong... 1 Quote
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