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SublimeBW's Armor Master's (AM) ANH Stunt Kit - Build Thread


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Posted

Whelp, the box has arrived. I rummaged through it, did a poorly made unboxing video where I likely got most of the pieces wrong in my excitement and now I have a bit of "where do I go next" paralysis (I will get over it).

 

Rumor is the helmet is the best place to begin so I will start researching that. Given it has the most complex parts (fans, voice box, lenses and so on) I will make sure to do lots of research before starting.

S Helmet.jpg

S Mostly laid out.jpg

  • Like 1
  • SublimeBW changed the title to SublimeBW's Armor Master's (AM) ANH Stunt Kit - Build Thread
Posted

Hey Brian, congratulations for your BBB Day !! :happyandcheerfulbirthday: Let's the party begin !! 

 

Take a look to this useful index to find some resources for your build.

 

Post tons of photos, don't be shy on asking every question you have and remember "Measure Twice, Cut  Once "

 

We are here to help.  :salute:

Posted

Great news the excitement, then panic when you realize you have to put this together :laugh1:

 

Some great helmet threads

 

For when you are in doubt check the gallery sections

 

Posted

Day 1 progress was minimal but better than nothing. Mainly putting the decals on the helmet. Apparently, I am horrible at it as there were bubbles in one and when I tried to fix another I made it worse. I may end up scrapping the decals and just going the hand painted route.

My next steps include actually drilling or sanding out the teeth so trying to work up the courage for that.

Day 1 - 1.jpg

Day 1 - 2.jpg

Day 1 - 3.jpg

Day 1 - 4.jpg

Posted (edited)

Is there a secret to getting the faceplate and the top of the helmet lined up? I know that the helmet is asymmetrical and have watch the videos from Eric Dyck (which have been a help) but every time I get one eye lined up the other gets out of whack or my brow changes (I am shooting for about 3/8" or what I believe is the mid-brow look) during alignment and then I get that fixed and the eyes are out of whack again. 

Am I being too critical about the alignment or misunderstanding how the alignment is meant to go? Or is there some sort of "Hey Brian, you are a dork, do this and win at helmets" step that I somehow skipped.

Note: I did NOT do the trim step in Eric's video; will that help? From the explanation, it comes into play with the ear piece mounting.

Note: I did also post this same question on the AM Facebook site.

Edit: Update from the Facebook post. I was not lining up the correct pieces. The front line of the front traps should be lined up with the orbital ridge rather than the eye cutout.

Edited by SublimeBW
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

I am nearing completion on the helmet but worry that I have the alignment off (I should have given this a better look before manicuring the first ear) and was hoping to get an opinion from the group. I think my brow and eyes are lined up but the damned asymmetrical aspect of the helmet has me second guessing myself. Any opinions or feedback is appreciated.

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Edited by SublimeBW
  • 2 months later...
Posted (edited)

I took a bit of a build hiatus due to some of that life stuff getting in the way (holidays, travel, vacation, general life BS) but am now back at it!

I wanting to put my stripes on but wanted to double check that my helmet alignment looks good prior to doing so (I know I have some paint touch up and clean up to go through still). Any section eyes would be appreciated. 

bIB8uFL.jpg

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nqFUwwd.jpg

Edited by SublimeBW
Posted
23 hours ago, SublimeBW said:

I wanting to put my stripes on but wanted to double check that my helmet alignment looks good prior to doing so (I know I have some paint touch up and clean up to go through still). Any section eyes would be appreciated. 

 

 

Hi Brian, you're doing a great work with your helmet.  :jc_doublethumbup:  a couple of suggestions to the alignment and some paint details.

 

 

Starting with the Brow Trim, ideally for ANH stunt, it could be sitting a little higher .

 

                                                                                                                       Reference Images

RfZJfmu.jpg?1             j2cjstP.jpg?1

 

 

 

As you pointed , the paint job can have a second session and remember when when adding the strips, they go positioned approximately a pencil width from the side of the cheek.
and the Fall of tube stripe tops ideally lean toward the front.

 

 

lbRc2Ga.jpg?1

 

 

 

    Dun3H1F.jpg?1    5wKJrsD.jpg?1            xSY3FDW.jpg?3   ebxjEWJ.jpg?1

 

 

 

I1lhUgG.jpg     w7I2K3W.jpg

 

 

Ideally, placement of ears (and screws) should closely follow the rear angle of the trap above them

 

Q6UjhUf.jpg?1    2pM3qIS.jpg?1

 

 

                                           PJRriVW.jpg?1            RahNCfw.jpg     

 

 

Keep up the great work !

 

  • Like 1
Posted
3 hours ago, TKSpartan said:

 

 

Hi Brian, you're doing a great work with your helmet.  :jc_doublethumbup:  a couple of suggestions to the alignment and some paint details...

 

That is EXACTLY the feedback I was looking for, thank you!

 

I originally had a higher brow but while making some minor adjustments it somehow slipped (I noticed the slip when I took the picture) so that should be am easy correction.

 

For correcting the ear positions, I feel that is may possibly leave some of the old holes open. I can fill those up using the patching method (clippings and acetone) , right?

Posted
17 hours ago, SublimeBW said:

 

That is EXACTLY the feedback I was looking for, thank you!

 

I originally had a higher brow but while making some minor adjustments it somehow slipped (I noticed the slip when I took the picture) so that should be am easy correction.

 

For correcting the ear positions, I feel that is may possibly leave some of the old holes open. I can fill those up using the patching method (clippings and acetone) , right?

Yes, you can fill then with that method. :salute:

Posted
On 2/26/2022 at 4:30 PM, TKSpartan said:

Yes, you can fill then with that method. :salute:


I think I corrected the alignment a bit but I ended up cracking the ear piece a smidge and I now have a visible screw (you have to look close, but from the right angle and distance it is visible) so I will have to get that worked out. 

TQsdQQH.jpg

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Dd2EW5t.jpg

Posted
9 hours ago, SublimeBW said:

I think I corrected the alignment a bit but I ended up cracking the ear piece a smidge and I now have a visible screw (you have to look close, but from the right angle and distance it is visible) so I will have to get that worked out. 

 

Wow, it's the first time I see a crack in that zone, what I should do in this case is to lower the ear a little below the brow trim line to allow the arc to fit better into the cheek and for the cracked section a possible fix could be to glue a small  ABS piece behind and apply a bit of ABS paste to the front, sand and polish. 

 

 

i0BSxWZ.jpg  mXxBRuI.jpg

 

REFERENCE

6wJD12E.png

 

  • Like 2
  • 7 months later...
Posted

Alright, after a several month break and being in my own head so afraid to progress, I think I am ready to get back in the saddle. I have a set of replacement ears so that I don't have worry about fixing the original set that cracked so can proceed on the helmet if I wanted, but I think I am going to pivot and work on an easier part to build confidence.

 

Realistically, I never trimmed any of my pieces (AM kit, Dave said it come trimmed but when I look at some pieces compared to other posts, it seems they are mostly trimmed?) so maybe starting there will be a good confidence gain.

  • Like 1
  • 5 months later...
Posted (edited)

I started on this shins this time around and am working with a friend so that we can bounce cuts and progress off each other (no prior build experience between us).


Do I need to take more off the top return edge? I read that 3mm - 6mm is the thickness to go so went with 4.5mm. This seems thicker than what I saw on archive images but worry about taking too much off.

fIV7yAX.jpg


Also, how much should be removed from the bottom of the shins/greaves? I couldn't find a good image of that.

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Edited by SublimeBW
Posted

Leave 3/16" or so around the top except for the rear where the seam opens, remove all of that.
On the bottom, remove all of the return edge.

IMG_0234_2.JPEG

IMG_0235_2.JPEG

Posted

Dave’s kits being trimmed means there’s no extreme amount of trimming to do, but definitely good he leaves a lot of material to size with. As mentioned leave some return edge on top of the shins and none on the bottom. Work with the front cover strips first that way you can then later size the rear based on your legs. The front needs to be a 20mm cover strip though, so that’s why you’d do that first.


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Posted (edited)

Hey gang, I have my shins trimmed and ready for gluing the front but want to make sure I get the right pieces together.  Any chance anyone can confirm which goes with which as I am not seeing one side overly shorter than the other at the when line them up?

 

J9f0t8c.jpg

Edited by SublimeBW
Posted
On 4/10/2023 at 12:30 PM, Addertime said:

Leave 3/16" or so around the top except for the rear where the seam opens, remove all of that.
On the bottom, remove all of the return edge.

Thanks for the feedback! For some reason, I didn't get any notification about your response until today. Greatly appreciate the pictures.

Posted
On 4/12/2023 at 11:44 PM, FN1313 said:

Dave’s kits being trimmed means there’s no extreme amount of trimming to do, but definitely good he leaves a lot of material to size with. As mentioned leave some return edge on top of the shins and none on the bottom. Work with the front cover strips first that way you can then later size the rear based on your legs. The front needs to be a 20mm cover strip though, so that’s why you’d do that first.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks! I have things sized up for 20mm in the front and just have to line these guys up and will have my first official gluing!

Posted

So the shins will line up with the natural curve of the shins and calves of the body. The more curvy part on the inside.

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  • Like 1
Posted
7 hours ago, FN1313 said:

So the shins will line up with the natural curve of the shins and calves of the body. The more curvy part on the inside.

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Right, but wasn't there some sort of mismatch between the left outer / right inner and right outer & left inner or is that just for the RS Propmasters kit?

Example reference:

 

Posted
Right, but wasn't there some sort of mismatch between the left outer / right inner and right outer & left inner or is that just for the RS Propmasters kit?

Example reference:
 

So it’s going to depend on kit more likely, but even the AM kit as you can see with my shins above has one part that has lest of a curve (outer) and one that has more of a curve (inner) that would be how you want to assemble them. Upon first glance myself I didn’t know which went where because it wasn’t as easily distinguished but if you hold the pieces up against each other you’ll be able to notice how they curve.


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Posted (edited)

Well, my shins officially have cover strips on them. I plan on moving forward with sizing this weekend (assuming I don't need to make an adjustment on my cover strip positioning).

 

9FQWoVo.jpg

 

Edited by SublimeBW
  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

Slow but sure progress on a busy weekend. We sized up the calves and I have the back cover strips going with some e6000.

 

uCAVmrI.jpg

 

That said, I was curious if anyone has tips for adhering the sniper knee. I attempted to do so but it quickly turned into a mess as when I would clamp the sides it would case the other points to come out of line. Is it easier to cure the front and then the sides or is there a tool or clamping spot that I am missing?

Edited by SublimeBW
  • Like 1
Posted
Slow but sure progress on a busy weekend. We sized up the calves and I have the back cover strips going with some e6000.
 
uCAVmrI.jpg
 
That said, I was curious if anyone has tips for adhering the sniper knee. I attempted to do so but it quickly turned into a mess as when I would clamp the sides it would case the other points to come out of line. Is it easier to cure the front and then the sides or is there a tool or clamping spot that I am missing?

Honestly it’s a work of persistent adjusting until everything is set. What I did was clamp things in place and mark where the front of the shin was against the back of the knee plate. Then I added glue and clamp/magnets there and clamped with strong clamps the sides down with glue as well. Being sure that the edge line matched up with the shin’s edge line too.
45ed735c16bacd25ddc5317f9fcc395c.jpg
bb8f052be770bd4d4ec1830bb5c4327f.jpg


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