Doggydoc’s AP ANH stunt build

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

My shed floor always has some shavings, even after a sweep, I normally trim a full set of armor in one sitting so it gets pretty messy, even the chair  

 

 

[Doggydoc[Staff]]

Had another run at trimming and sanding all of the torso and leg parts. And cut out the teeth and eyes on the face. 
 

Please let me know if there is anything I need to fix on the teeth or eyes before I start assembling the helmet.  Thanks. 
 

 

 

 

 

 

[CableGuy[TK]]

Nice job on the teeth.

Up to you on the eyes, but, I like to keep the corners nice and sharp. Here’s some reference photos:

[Doggydoc[Staff]]

Thanks. I will alter that. Was more focused with the amount I took out on the eyes and missed the sharpness of the corners.

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

You'll be amazed just how much removing that small will make to your ability to see

[Doggydoc[Staff]]

Pretty easy fix. Just filed and sanded a bit deeper into the corners. 

 

Edited June 4, 2022 by Doggydoc

[Doggydoc[Staff]]

I am trying to size my thigh pieces and am having a bit of trouble as I have fairly big thighs.

 

the AP set has raised ridges on the front for the cover strips and none on the back.  I need to leave most of the ridge on the front to allow my upper thigh to fit into it.  
 

Questions:

 

1) Here is the front view with a 20 mm cover strip placed on the raised ridge.  I suspect that I need a wider cover strip? , or do I just leave the outside edges of the raised ridge exposed?

 

 

2). On the back side, I have a 35 mm cover strip which I need to cover a gap at the top of the thigh and the guide line from the molding which I did not cut back to to allow for extra circumference.

 

Is this Ok, or is there another solution?

 

 

 

 

on the last photo, there is some return edge that I will cut away on the back side at the top. 

 

 

Edited June 4, 2022 by Doggydoc

[TKSpartan[Staff]]

15 hours ago, Doggydoc said:

2). On the back side, I have a 35 mm cover strip which I need to cover a gap at the top of the thigh and the guide line from the molding which I did not cut back to to allow for extra circumference.

 

Is this Ok, or is there another solution?

 

Hi Gerald, 

 

What I would suggest is to add an internal  wide ( 30-35 mm) covers trip to hide that gap and next glue the 25-30 mm external cover strip to have a better look form outside.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Also check with your GML, some don't like oversized cover strips so you may need to add some extra material to the back of your thighs.

 

This was an interesting one, he extended the rear of the thighs to allow standard sized cover strips on the front, but it's a lot of work.

A few examples of adding extra material

 

This is one of @justjoseph63's diagrams showing how to add extra material, although this is not for those with raised ridges  

[Doggydoc[Staff]]

Thanks for all the info. Very helpful.  I think I am going to take a pause on the thighs and work on the torso, so I can see exactly where the thighs will sit at the top.  Maybe they will be easier to size then.  

[Doggydoc[Staff]]

Did a bit more work on the helmet last night. Does the brow height look ok?

 

 

 

 

Rough trimmed the ears and also countersunk the holes.  Glad I ordered 2 sets as I forgot that you countersink holding the bit in your hand. Makes a pretty big hole when it’s on the drill. Oops

 

 

Edited June 5, 2022 by Doggydoc

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Brow trim looks good

     

 

 

Some like to angle cut the ends of the brow trim but straight is fine too

        

 

To fix your holes you can glue some ABS plastic behind, can also fill the holes with ABS paste

 

 

Adding a small step to the ears can help them sit better.

 

Tutorial here

 

[Doggydoc[Staff]]

Made a bunch of snaps today and started gluing to the kidney plate.  Took a few try’s to get the technique down.  The little circle tapping really makes a difference in how hard you strike the snap tool and how much you angle.  
 

[Doggydoc[Staff]]

I did the ears this afternoon. That was a long 4 hours of sanding but I am pretty happy with the result. Had some trouble attaching the right ear as the face piece was not long enough to grab it and the back with the bottom screw. I added a small piece of scrap ABS and extended it to catch the screw.  
 

I noticed the right ear was a bit loose. I tightened the screw and it snugged nicely into the helmet. 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[revlimiter[Staff]]

That looks fantastic to me! I'm not the most knowledgeable, but yeah. Amazing work. And the angle looks spot on.

 

I do know that many of the screen-used ones had nothing like this nice an ear fitment.

[Doggydoc[Staff]]

One thing that I did notice with the AP kit for anyone making one is that if you follow the guide marks for the ear screws and bolt to attach the face to the cap, the ear screws will be up and down and not angled along the rear of the trap line. This could affect centurion level certification 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

6 hours ago, Doggydoc said:

One thing that I did notice with the AP kit for anyone making one is that if you follow the guide marks for the ear screws and bolt to attach the face to the cap, the ear screws will be up and down and not angled along the rear of the trap line. This could affect centurion level certification 

This is the same with a lot of makers ears, has not held up anyone for centurion to my knowledge, these are normally suggestions for a more accurate look and not a requirement

[Doggydoc[Staff]]

Started painting the helmet tonight. Will clean up the edges a bit once dry with a toothpick and alcohol and work on the grey tomorrow. 

 

 

 

 

I used a filbert brush with the rounded tip and a chisel shaped tip brush for the tears and traps. Worked well.

 

Edited June 11, 2022 by Doggydoc

[SpacesNoTabs]

Awesome! What is your helmet sitting on? 

[Doggydoc[Staff]]

59 minutes ago, SpacesNoTabs said:

Awesome! What is your helmet sitting on? 

Actually it is on a guitar stand. 
 

[CableGuy[TK]]

Nice work, trooper. Good start.

If you want a more “typical” Stunt look, you could consider a “fuller” vocoder by raising the 2nd and 6th bars.

https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/48252-anh-tk-vocoder-examples/

More details and references here;

[Doggydoc[Staff]]

5 hours ago, CableGuy said:

If you want a more “typical” Stunt look, you could consider a “fuller” vocoder by raising the 2nd and 6th bars.

Thanks Dan. That is the look I am going for. I will raise them up.  I actually have been using your references for this. Thanks for doing the videos. They are all very helpful.

 

[Doggydoc[Staff]]

Started the first coat of the grey. The Humbrol paints really go on thin. Guess it will need several coats. 
 

[CableGuy[TK]]

Started the first coat of the grey. The Humbrol paints really go on thin. Guess it will need several coats. 
 

Hmmm… I’ve never seen it like that before. Humbrol Gloss #5, yes?

How long did you stir it for?

Mine goes on really well, and quite thick. In some places, one coat is enough (although I usually do two anyway):

[Doggydoc[Staff]]

1 hour ago, CableGuy said:

Hmmm… I’ve never seen it like that before. Humbrol Gloss #5, yes?

How long did you stir it for?

Yes. It is the #5. I stirred it for a few minutes with a toothpick.   Could it be because yours is going onto white paint and mine onto very shiny abs?

couls also be the brush but the black went on thick. 

maybe I will drop a few ball bearings into the container at shake better?

Edited June 11, 2022 by Doggydoc