Macrobinocular electronics

[CallMeMrTibbles[501st]]

I've recently acquired a pair of used sandie style macrobinoculars. They needed a small repair on arrival, and now that they're open I'm very tempted to put some electronics in there.

 

Does anyone know where to source working versions of the 3 square buttons under the eyepieces?

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

That may be a tall order, Richard.  What you will be looking for is a latching (not momentary) push button switch, square, with a total width of 12 cm (each) and a height of 6 mm.  You will need 2 gray and one red.

 

[CallMeMrTibbles[501st]]

I never do things by halves

Other option I guess is to carefully remove the printed buttons and glue those on top of something else that stays hidden

[Goggytalks[TK]]

I've recently acquired a pair of used sandie style macrobinoculars. They needed a small repair on arrival, and now that they're open I'm very tempted to put some electronics in there.
 
Does anyone know where to source working versions of the 3 square buttons under the eyepieces?

Have you thought about approaching The guy at Tramp? He may have a solution. Guys an electronics affects genius.


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[CallMeMrTibbles[501st]]

Paul, yes, he is absolutely a genius.

I've already come up with an idea that should be fun.

I wanted to install small screens behind the eye pieces showing videos of the macrobinocular footage on hoth and tattoine, but then realised so many issues with that, so will be fitting small plastic lenses and electro luminescent plate (with maybe a print of the hoth scene on acetate). And then I've bought a sound board which will drive a speaker hidden behind the front lens cavity.

Also need to do a lot of strengthening, as the 3d printed body already has several cracks.

I'll make the front part of the body removable (using magnets maybe), for charging / replacing batteries.

[CallMeMrTibbles[501st]]

So, here's the starting pics of my macros, after removing the front panel and expanding foam that was used to fill the cavity.

The walls of the main body are pretty thin and flexible, and the expanding foam hadn't properly filled the cavity leaving large gaps. This meant the walls were free to flex and has left some hairline cracks visible from the outside. I don't know the paint used so matching would be difficult, and they're weathered and the cracks are pretty small, so I'm hoping I can get away with not having to repaint.

I'm going to need to add some kind of strengthening inside, and I'm thinking an internal wooden brace between top and bottom should be sufficient while still allowing space for the electronics. I'll also add more tabs of ABS to make sure the front panel sits properly.

I'll be hollowing out the eyepieces with my dremel ready for the lenses and electro luminescent panel. The switch for that will be internal, so I don't need to worry about where to put an external switch.

Will wait for the audio board to arrive before thinking about button and speaker fitment. Play that part by ear once everything has arrived. The plan for the sound module is to play various SW theme music, depending on the situation.

[CallMeMrTibbles[501st]]

Found some foam blocks and wooden battens exactly the right size for internal support. Much stronger now.

[CallMeMrTibbles[501st]]

More tabs glued in, and it's already a pretty good friction fit

[Goggytalks[TK]]

Coming on nicely Richard. Sounds exciting what your planning sound effects wise. Do post a video when you get the electronics working.


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[CallMeMrTibbles[501st]]

Will do.
At the moment just thinking SW themes, but will have a look for any macro specific sound effects too.

[CallMeMrTibbles[501st]]

Parts ordered:

For the audio...

https://shop.pimoroni.com/products/adafruit-audio-fx-mini-sound-board-wav-ogg-trigger

https://shop.pimoroni.com/products/adafruit-pro-trinket-liion-lipoly-backpack-add-on

https://shop.pimoroni.com/products/lipo-battery-pack

https://shop.pimoroni.com/products/adafruit-mono-2-5w-class-d-audio-amplifier-pam8302

https://shop.pimoroni.com/products/mini-speaker-4-3w

Already have some mini momentary buttons that I 'think' will work OK. Will attempt to modify to look the part.

For the eye pieces...

(20mm)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PMMA-Plano-convex-Acrylic-condenser-Lens-for-Zoom-LED-Flashlight-Bike-head-lamp-/184929977095?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

(Light blue with sound to light so they light up when I trigger sounds)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20mm-x-120mm-EL-Tape-Electroluminescent-Glow-Foil-in-8-Colours-4-00-/233203448795?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

[Sly11[Admin]]

This is going to be very very cool. Can't wait to see the finished product, so you must post a video when done

[CallMeMrTibbles[501st]]

This is going to be very very cool. Can't wait to see the finished product, so you must post a video when done

Thanks mate.
See how it all works out. Might be some on the fly changes!

[CallMeMrTibbles[501st]]

First two switches fitted.

Removed the existing screws, drilled out to take switch body. Shimmed the switch so that the button is 'only just' protruding (but enough to press with gloves on). Filed a slot into the top of the button to mimic screws and roughed up. Not sure whether to paint or leave as is.

Sound module can have up to eight momentary switches. The next three will be easy to place (under the eyepieces), but if I want any more I'm going to have to get inventive!

[CallMeMrTibbles[501st]]

Glued some electrical fittings to the electro luminescent plate. They tidy up where I've cut the material away, and give a cool texture and pattern inside the eyepiece.



Electro luminescent plate fitted inside the eyepieces. Sound to light box is quite big so need to figure out where to fit it.







Material removed from front lens; speaker will be fitted behind. Will fit black cloth with something behind to strengthen it.

[themaninthesuitcase[Admin]]

On 11/1/2021 at 12:24 PM, CallMeMrTibbles said:

Does anyone know where to source working versions of the 3 square buttons under the eyepieces?

 

On 11/1/2021 at 12:47 PM, justjoseph63 said:

That may be a tall order, Richard.  What you will be looking for is a latching (not momentary) push button switch, square, with a total width of 12 cm (each) and a height of 6 mm.  You will need 2 gray and one red.

12x12 square push is proving a hard to source.  I found some "lens cap" style buttons but they are industrial style and you're looking at £7 ish each for the lense and a switch, and it's a bulky swich. 

 

Lot's of options at 15mm though, do you have some measurements from the printed ones?  If you can use a momentary then you could probably use a small tactile and we could design a 3D printed Cap for it.

[CallMeMrTibbles[501st]]

12x12 square push is proving a hard to source.  I found some "lens cap" style buttons but they are industrial style and you're looking at £7 ish each for the lense and a switch, and it's a bulky swich. 
 
Lot's of options at 15mm though, do you have some measurements from the printed ones?  If you can use a momentary then you could probably use a small tactile and we could design a 3D printed Cap for it.

Thanks!

Weirdly hadn't thought to actually measure the printed buttons , but will do this morning.

(Assuming I need 12mm buttons) I may have found something that will work with a little modification.

Momentary
https://thepihut.com/products/colorful-square-tactile-button-switch-assortment-15-pack

The sound module uses momentary switches for triggering, and I reckon I can make these ones look the part with paint and maybe some sugru.

This latched one would be a little more tricky, but not impossible, and could be a good external power switch.

Latched
https://thepihut.com/products/on-off-power-button-pushbutton-toggle-switch

[themaninthesuitcase[Admin]]

2 minutes ago, CallMeMrTibbles said:

(Assuming I need 12mm buttons) I may have found something that will work with a little modification.

Momentary
https://thepihut.com/products/colorful-square-tactile-button-switch-assortment-15-pack

Those look good, a shroud could be knocked up to hide that gap.

[CallMeMrTibbles[501st]]

That's what I was thinking with the sugru (still don't have a 3d printer), but maybe carefully trimming and gluing some abs scraps would work.

I'm hoping I have a good paint match with some of the acrylics I have left over from my paint by numbers.

[themaninthesuitcase[Admin]]

I have a printer so if you send some dimensions and stuff I can come up with something for you.

[CallMeMrTibbles[501st]]

That's awesome mate, thank you!
I'll check measurements and get the switches ordered. Once I have everything in front of me I'll let you know sizes. Appreciate that mate

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

Looks like our designs are definitely different, Rich.  I used the 12 mm on mine because that was the maximum size I could fit, but yours looks to have a larger opening in the button area so you may be able to use larger (15 mm) sizes!  COOL! 

 

      

[CallMeMrTibbles[501st]]

Looks like you're right about being able to fit 15mm buttons. Fab. Opens up more options.







I should get the remaining parts for the sound module today, so plan to have that assembled and ready for testing by the weekend.

There is a pad labelled reset, which I'm hoping stops the current playback; if so that'll have a dedicated button, probably the top grey button between the eyepieces.

Plans for other buttons:
- dedicated button for macro sounds. Having trouble finding the actual sfx from the film, so may have to resort to a sound-alike. This is going to be the fake screw button already installed closest to my right hand.
- dedicated button for Imperial March. Probably the other fake screw button.
- the red button will hopefully be latched for power for both lights and sound module.

That leaves 6 other triggers, and I have an idea about that. I've found a rotational switch with up to 12 positions, but it can be limited to only rotate for 6 of those; 1 for each remaining trigger.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-2-3-4-Poles-Rotary-Switch-Solder-Terminals-150mA-250V-Lorlin-/254303918379?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

Each of the 6 terminals will go to the corresponding trigger pad on the sound board. The common terminal will go to the other grey button by the eyepiecesbefore tieing to ground, and when pressed will trigger whichever of the 6 samples is selected by the rotary switch.

The knob for the rotary switch will either be the knob on top of the macros (most likely, but depends on space) or the knob at the front by the main lens.

Planning to have different music at these 6 positions: SW main theme, cantina band, award ceremony, SW disco mix, Leia's life day song and one more. I reserve the right to change music used

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

58 minutes ago, CallMeMrTibbles said:

I reserve the right to change music used

 

Anything by George Formby would be nice.    

 

[CallMeMrTibbles[501st]]

leave it with me

Although, that's a little small for me!
These are more my size