LTM's Imperial Surplus FOTK TLJ

[LTM[TK]]

The forearm mod. So I can get the halves to separate about .75 inches (19.05 mm) but this really doesn't add much to the ability to get your hand in and out. It also goes against the CRL where the first 1/3rd is to not be attached.

Observations from my experiment: 1. The rail had to be made out of rubber/silicone, I believe it was attached to the forearm with the screw. Possible that they used magnets or velcro to keep it in place.

2. Looking at the screen shot where a trooper has it unzipped and using his hand to drink a beverage, to get that angle of flex I question if other parts of the forearm are not also make out of flexible silicone/rubber.

 

I will post up pics from the test mule and you can see for yourself. Even if I cast pieces in rubber, it would be a real challenge to get them painted to match the plastic (not that I am that great of a painter).

[LTM[TK]]

Can someone measure their kidney plate from bottom (near the belt) to the top (this would be the area covered by the TD plate). My back is not covering the kidney, I would like to see the size to know if I am just on the tall size or if the plastic is molded for a shorter trooper. If I add more height to the kidney, I would also have to add to the TD plate and I have not seen that issue with other armor makers, I am asking for the measurement from the red line (top of kidney) to the top of where the belt starts)

Edited January 3, 2022 by LTM
reduce size of pic

[Sly11[Admin]]

5 hours ago, LTM said:

The forearm mod. So I can get the halves to separate about .75 inches (19.05 mm) but this really doesn't add much to the ability to get your hand in and out. It also goes against the CRL where the first 1/3rd is to not be attached.

Observations from my experiment: 1. The rail had to be made out of rubber/silicone, I believe it was attached to the forearm with the screw. Possible that they used magnets or velcro to keep it in place.

2. Looking at the screen shot where a trooper has it unzipped and using his hand to drink a beverage, to get that angle of flex I question if other parts of the forearm are not also make out of flexible silicone/rubber.

 

I will post up pics from the test mule and you can see for yourself. Even if I cast pieces in rubber, it would be a real challenge to get them painted to match the plastic (not that I am that great of a painter).

The CRL does require some updating and we have quite the discussion thread on what needs to be changed.

The big thing is also having the photos of a built costume that can be added to show visual reference to some of the changes we intend to make.

Also don't forget, the materials used for the screen assets were vastly different to vac formed ABS so they are more flexible and durable. Not all behind the scenes attributes can be easily replicated using the materials we have, so things like the concealed zipper will not form part of a CRL, just like strapping doesn't factor into them. It's not meant to be seen and is not consistently visible on screen therefore we won't mandate it.

It is certainly fun to try and replicate it though.

[Sly11[Admin]]

5 hours ago, LTM said:

Can someone measure their kidney plate from bottom (near the belt) to the top (this would be the area covered by the TD plate). My back is not covering the kidney, I would like to see the size to know if I am just on the tall size or if the plastic is molded for a shorter trooper. If I add more height to the kidney, I would also have to add to the TD plate and I have not seen that issue with other armor makers, I am asking for the measurement from the red line (top of kidney) to the top of where the belt starts)

This is an interesting one.

1. How tall are you?

2. Please post a photo of your kidney section so we can try and figure it out.

There should be a series of tabs at the base which is what you secure the belt and But plate to, kind of like a skirt. it give the separation between it and the but plate and the belt fits between.

[LTM[TK]]

Here's the issue (its the same when I have the undersuit on). Since this photo I removed some plastic from the front and that helped the torso sit a little more level.

 

However I am still close to the top of the kidney, if I slightly move the back pops up.

 

The plate for the TD is 8.5 inches.

 

The kidney is 8 5/8 inches from top to top of belt

 

I am 6'1"

 

So if I add material to the top of the kidney plate that is not an issue, but the TD plate will have to be increased as well. Have not seen anyone with this issue so it makes me think that my kidney is modeled shorter than the other vendors.

 

 

[TKSpartan[Staff]]

12 hours ago, LTM said:

Here's the issue (its the same when I have the undersuit on). Since this photo I removed some plastic from the front and that helped the torso sit a little more level.

 

However I am still close to the top of the kidney, if I slightly move the back pops up.

 

The plate for the TD is 8.5 inches.

 

The kidney is 8 5/8 inches from top to top of belt

 

I am 6'1"

 

So if I add material to the top of the kidney plate that is not an issue, but the TD plate will have to be increased as well. Have not seen anyone with this issue so it makes me think that my kidney is modeled shorter than the other vendors.

 

 

 

 

Hi Lou, I have taken some measures last night  . My kit is a KB props TFA

 

The kidney is 13 inch form top to middle belt section. and the TD plate is about 11 inch long.

 

I'm 5' 8 "  

 

 

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Unfortunately not able to get to my FOTK case at the moment for measurements.

 

One issue is the ab is not sitting straight along your sides, it drops towards the back

 

I've rotated your image a little so you are not leaning back as much. If you brought the back up so it's straight on the sides you should just about be covered. 

 

I would however look at adding your belt and cod then seeing if you could move the whole ab section up at all, really depends where your cod is sitting.

 

[LTM[TK]]

Thanks for the reply. The issue with how it was sitting was due to extra material added to the ab section was actually pushing up and forward. Here is the before picture. Those "wings" at the top were the culprit. I marked where the chest plate sits on the ab.

 

 

In this pic you can see how it actually flares out at the top

 

Now sitting level at the waist and the back just touches the kidney. But as soon as I move it pops out. The kidney plate is 8.5 inches from top of belt (the plastic skirt) to the top where the TD would hook on (I am going to do the notch mod). Other builder kits are from 11-13 ish inches, so this is my problem. Walt has responded back that he will increase the size.

 

 

Edited January 15, 2022 by LTM
Spelling

[Darth Atlast[501st]]

Found it! 

[LTM[TK]]

7 minutes ago, Darth Atlast said:

Found it! 

Welcome! I replied back on your thread

[LTM[TK]]

Legs.
Need to taper the gaskets.  Going with the overlap inside of thighs, but epoxied closed as plenty of room to slip on. For the shins I will overlap but use a magnet closure. With the OTTK I made the shins fit my body, but does the FOTK keep a larger diameter and you use foam inside to keep it centered on the leg?

 

 

For the spats, does the top have a return edge?

 

I will do the double magnet closure system, so lots of work still to do on this part.

Last question, does the spat need to rest on the shin (I see KB kits have a groove) or can it be free floating below it?

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

I have some room in my shins, I also added some foam on the inside to help them align with the thighs, you may notice in this image they look offset

 

With KB's kit the spats should sit in the groove, you can't free float below it as it will leave the groove exposed.

 

[LTM[TK]]

Might have answered my own question, but the suits appear to be much thicker than our ABS.

[LTM[TK]]

Just now, gmrhodes13 said:

I have some room in my shins, I also added some foam on the inside to help them align with the thighs, you may notice in this image they look offset

 

With KB's kit the spats should sit in the groove, you can't free float below it as it will leave the groove exposed.

 

I dont have a KB kit, this is a Walt kit and there is no groove.

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Just now, LTM said:

I dont have a KB kit, this is a Walt kit and there is no groove.

Sorry still asleep.

 

The spat sits on the shin. I used velcro front and back to keep it in that position

[LTM[TK]]

Just now, gmrhodes13 said:

Sorry still asleep.

 

The spat sits on the shin. I used velcro front and back to keep it in that position

Thanks Glen! Is there a measurement from the pill hole in the shin to the top of the spat (or just eyeball it)? I assume this would be the same for TFA and TLJ?

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

1 minute ago, LTM said:

Thanks Glen! Is there a measurement from the pill hole in the shin to the top of the spat (or just eyeball it)? I assume this would be the same for TFA and TLJ?

 

Just eye ball it, they should be the same.

[LTM[TK]]

Adding height to the kidney plate.

Made a wooden form and cut a 3 inch piece and a 2 inch inside joiner strip.

 

At 8.5 inches tall, adding the additional 3 inches looks huge. Will cut the arm locations and trim as necessary. This will keep me moving forward on the build (hopefully I will get a new kidney from Walt when he has formed them).

 

[LTM[TK]]

Done for now, now I need to cut the excess.

 

Attached the two boxes on the left shin. Glazed and final sanded after this photo (thought I took photo)

 

Cutting out the ab boxes

 

Fit and finish is great, still need to sand flush but so far so good

 

Now I need to glue (using the same as @ukswrath from his FOTK build), smells but a quick setup - 45 minutes for maximum adhesion.

 

The AB has a curvature, if I just put a reinforcing strip behind it I am concerned that this will be pulled towards the body. If I need to keep the curvature, I will need to hot water shape the strip.

 

[LTM[TK]]

Ok, tried playing around with the forearms as it can be difficult to get my hands past the hole

 

First version

Cut the plastic at an angle, then basically forcing it back at the wrist. A zipper would pull the two sections together. Downside is not a lot of room at the wrist and the plastic would need to be cut multiple times to get everything straight.

Still plenty of room when the wrist is closed

 

Second version:

Use the top plate to cover (no cutting in half)

Magnets to hold the top plate on the forearm

2 posts center the box, magnets hold that on the plate

Box would be glued to bottom plate, magnets would keep tension on the posts

top rail would be glued to the box

Look from the wrist end

 

Issues:

The plastic near the elbow limits how much the wrist end can open up. But the top plate works like a charm.

 

Third version:

Will make a zipper the full length, no plastic as a bridge. Then I just put in on like an eighties leather wrist band (showing my age), and zip it up. Plenty of room for my hand. Then put the top plate on with magnets and should be good to go. Will update once I get the new zipper.

Please note this is a test mule, final version will be much nicer.

Edited January 24, 2022 by LTM

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Nice work adding the zip 

[shashachu[TK]]

Wow I have been off the forums for a while - I had no idea Walt finally shipped his FOTK kits! I'll be following this thread closely.

[LTM[TK]]

New armor in hand (imperial surplus), this should fit a little better. 

[LTM[TK]]

Well, time to start on the new kit.

 

Question  on the Imperial Surplus kit back yoke reinforcement part, do I remove below the line indicated in the shot below? I believe I do, but wanted to make sure before I cut

 

 

 

Edited May 17, 2022 by LTM

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

You just click on the 3 dots in the right corner of the page then click edit.

 

Appears you do trim that line.

 

John's @sillyfacebuild is an imperial surplus for reference