Tim’s first time build (RS Prop Masters ESB TK)

[TrickyT81[TK]]

Hi folks,
I think I’m going to need a bit more guidance on the hand guards. I’ve drawn on my images where I think the trim line should be if you wouldn’t mind checking this for me. The left hand in particular is more tricky as it’s more bulbous and doesn’t have an obvious trim line so I’m completely guessing at the moment.

RIGHT







LEFT





Thanks all,
Tim


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[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

15 hours ago, TrickyT81 said:

Hi folks,
I think I’m going to need a bit more guidance on the hand guards. I’ve drawn on my images where I think the trim line should be if you wouldn’t mind checking this for me. The left hand in particular is more tricky as it’s more bulbous and doesn’t have an obvious trim line so I’m completely guessing at the moment.

That's pretty much how I would trim them.

 

[TrickyT81[TK]]

Hi all,
Just ordering my snap fasteners. Prym is a high quality brand over here in the uk so I’m looking to order the type below.



The back of the ‘post’ looks like this.


I just need clarification on whether the back of the fastener (above) needs to be plain or whether it’s ok to have the line pattern.

Thanks,
Tim


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[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Depends on where you use them, RS use that type under the shoulder straps to attach to shoulders

 

Generally used snaps for strapping are like this

 

[TrickyT81[TK]]

Thanks, Glenn. I’ve seen that type as well. They’re 15mm wide, is that ok? I only check because the width of the snaps on the exterior of my current armour (which was a commission build with RS) is 12mm. I can get 12mm but the snaps are cheap and nasty.


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[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

14 hours ago, TrickyT81 said:

Thanks, Glenn. I’ve seen that type as well. They’re 15mm wide, is that ok? I only check because the width of the snaps on the exterior of my current armour (which was a commission build with RS) is 12mm. I can get 12mm but the snaps are cheap and nasty.

As long as they aren't seen from the outside you can use any size. Reason many go for the other types of snaps is they tend to hold on better than the RS, well in my experience anyway.

 

 

[FN1313[TK]]

As long as they aren't seen from the outside you can use any size. Reason many go for the other types of snaps is they tend to hold on better than the RS, well in my experience anyway.
 
 

I’m not sure exactly which snaps you’re looking at, but I used Tandy leather snaps. For pretty much all my internal rigging I used Line 24 snaps which are sturdier and heavier duty.


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[TrickyT81[TK]]

Hi all,
So I got the snaps recommended on the ‘Snap Setting 101’ thread. I have a question around the use of double snaps for body straps (shown in the picture below) vs single snaps.


Aside from helping to have a more secure connection, does it also help keep the armour in better alignment?

The reason for asking is that I’ve seen some troopers using single snaps and thinking this alternative would be less fiddly when kitting up.

Thanks,
Tim


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[justjoseph63[Staff]]

I built my first set of armor using single snaps at each connection.  On my very first troop, both shoulder bells and 2 torso snaps came apart (ending it after only 15 minutes).  Did I just not pay attention to flexibility issues?  Perhaps, but a fellow Garrison mate turned me on to the double snap method.  I (painstakingly) removed all the single ones and replaced them with doubles and have used that on each set of armor I have built.  Extra time, cost and effort?  You bet, but even after countless troops since, there have been no "wardrobe malfunctions".

 

As for keeping it in better alignment, absolutely.  A single snap connection can slide left or right.  Using two at each point will effectively eliminate that.

 

"The reason for asking is that I’ve seen some troopers using single snaps and thinking this alternative would be less fiddly when kitting up".

 

It takes less minute in total to secure the additional snaps, and is well worth that extra 60 seconds.  Trust me.

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

I found the double method does help a little aligning some pieces but more importantly saved me from missing a troop, one of the shoulder strap snaps pulled through the elastic but having a spare I could still get kitted up.

 

Some don't have any issues with single snaps but it is safer to double up, at least on areas that may take some strain. 

 

Soldering the hole definitely helps as it melts the edges so the snaps are less likely to pull though.

[TrickyT81[TK]]

Exactly what I needed guys. I’ve bought all the tools and materials needed for the double snap method so will take your advice.

As an additional step, I was going to add some black nylon webbing in the ‘fold’ where the female snaps will be added (see pic for ref). I felt this may help prevent the elastic becoming stretched around the snap hole. Do think this is unnecessary?






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[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

If there is enough post to go through it all then you could add it, some snaps have shorter posts than others. Make sure you seal the ends of the nylon too as it can fray quite a lot.

 

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

8 hours ago, TrickyT81 said:

As an additional step, I was going to add some black nylon webbing in the ‘fold’ where the female snaps will be added (see pic for ref). I felt this may help prevent the elastic becoming stretched around the snap hole. Do think this is unnecessary?

 

As Glen mentioned, as long as the posts are long enough to fit through all the layers this is an EXCELLENT idea, Tim!     (I am SO going to steal it, lol).

[TrickyT81[TK]]

So I’m well underway with the strapping and doing good so far (albeit at the expense of a few dud straps through learning).

Whilst the post of the female snap wasn’t quite long enough to compensate for the elastic going over the nylon webbing, I just added the nylon piece to the end of the elastic and this works quite well. In my opinion, it’s better than folding over the elastic as it more secure hole that doesn’t stretch out when the elastic is pulled. As an additional advantage, the solder iron fuses and seals the 2 pieces together when making the holes; an advantageous accident.




I would say that I needed to increase the size of the nylon backing for the male snaps. This was to create a greater surface area for the glue and get a better bond on the plastic.



I have a question about the strapping for the kidney/abs. My original RS commission can overlap at times so I’m trying to anticipate this when calculating the length of the strapping in this area. Is there a method to this so when it’s all connected and I close the ammo belt that it all stays in line and doesn’t overlap?

Thanks,
Tim


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[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

I normally take off 5mm which is normally enough not to overlap, really depends on your size and how much the elastic has to work, doubling over the elastic here is a good idea. To stop overlapping there are lots of ways, adding slots and tabs can help, I found just adding some bent pieces and gluing behind helped keep them together.

 

Just adding some foam behind the ab or kidney can also help pull out the pieces closing the sides.

 

 

 

 

[TrickyT81[TK]]

Hi all,
Just a couple of questions…

1. I bought the sew on snaps for the shoulder bell/shoulder bridge connection to copy what my original RS suit has. Am I able to use the line 24 snaps for this instead?

2. Attaching the knee ammo belt. Am I correct in assuming that I should drill the holes into the ammo belt first (see pic for where I intend to put these) then, using these holes, mark the drill spots on the thigh armour when lined up?




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[TKSpartan[Staff]]

3 hours ago, TrickyT81 said:

Hi all,
Just a couple of questions…

1. I bought the sew on snaps for the shoulder bell/shoulder bridge connection to copy what my original RS suit has. Am I able to use the line 24 snaps for this instead?

2. Attaching the knee ammo belt. Am I correct in assuming that I should drill the holes into the ammo belt first (see pic for where I intend to put these) then, using these holes, mark the drill spots on the thigh armour when lined up?




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Hi,

1. I bought the sew on snaps for the shoulder bell/shoulder bridge connection to copy what my original RS suit has. Am I able to use the line 24 snaps for this instead?  YES you can 

 

 

2. Attaching the knee ammo belt. Am I correct in assuming that I should drill the holes into the ammo belt first (see pic for where I intend to put these) then, using these holes, mark the drill spots on the thigh armour when lined up?
 

This chart would help you to check the ammo pack location and then make the holes.

 

 

 

And this references for the accurate position of the rivets

 

 

 

 

[TrickyT81[TK]]

Thanks, Spartan. I have a pair rivet setting pliers. Are you able to tell me what attachments I need to use to set the single cap rivets?


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[TKSpartan[Staff]]

45 minutes ago, TrickyT81 said:

Thanks, Spartan. I have a pair rivet setting pliers. Are you able to tell me what attachments I need to use to set the single cap rivets?

 

In my builds I have used a plier or a rubber hammer on a hard surface.

 

 

Or you can use a tool like below

 

https://www.amazon.com/Leather-LANMOK-Replacement-Repairing-Decoration/dp/B07F9S7YP4/ref=sr_1_14?crid=11TZYF9H8D9WP&keywords=single%2Bcap%2Brivets%2Binstall%2Btool&qid=1689892613&sprefix=single%2Bcap%2Brivets%2Binstall%2Btool%2Caps%2C149&sr=8-14&th=1

 

 

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

If it's the two piece I use some soft pine for the outside to rest on and regular small hammer on the inside. If it's the split post type, same applies but use a flat screwdriver to spread the legs (that sounded rude)

[TrickyT81[TK]]

Hi all,
Whilst I’m waiting for parts of my armour’s glue to cure, I thought I’d make a start on sewing the hand guards to the gloves. Are there any tutorials how on how to do this? I couldn’t find anything myself and I’m a bit stuck on the best way to position the hand guard and sew it on correctly without sewing the palm and back pieces of the glove together if that makes sense?

Thanks,
Tim


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[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

2 hours ago, TrickyT81 said:

Hi all,
Whilst I’m waiting for parts of my armour’s glue to cure, I thought I’d make a start on sewing the hand guards to the gloves. Are there any tutorials how on how to do this? I couldn’t find anything myself and I’m a bit stuck on the best way to position the hand guard and sew it on correctly without sewing the palm and back pieces of the glove together if that makes sense?

I cut a piece of cardboard the size of my hand, inserted and positioned the handguard over where my knuckles would be then sewed.

[TrickyT81[TK]]

Hi all,
Ok, so got the hand guards sewn to the gloves. Great advice, Glenn. Much appreciated.


As another question, I’m looking to make the below mobility cuts to my thighs (only the left is pictured because the other is glueing). Will these adjustments affect my application for Centurion?





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[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Great work

 

No issues with mobility cuts all the way up to L3, just don't cut through the top ridge.

 

Thigh trimming no issues either, just make sure you aren't leaving a large open/black area.

[TKSpartan[Staff]]

2 hours ago, TrickyT81 said:

Will these adjustments affect my application for Centurion?

 

No problem.  and nice job with the handguards